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zephyrgreen

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  1. Hello! So we picked up our rig last year in august and have been full timing it for about five months now. the solar system has been giving us problems from the beginning and we recently switched out the monitor, but the panels still aren't charging the deep cycle battery. it stays at about 11.74v, based on a plug-in reader. I will include a picture of the monitor soon, but it was recommended by the folks at ML Solar down in Campbell, CA who mostly do house panels. We couldn't figure out the rating of the two panels on our roof, but the controller is rated at 20 amps and it was only $20 so I went with it. Ideally, the plan is to hook up the cabin battery to the relay that exists under the hood, so that the alternator will charge the cabin battery when driving. However, when we are docked, we would appreciate it if we could get the panels to function as they should. I believe that there is either a passive leak/drain somewhere OR the panels, which seem to be wired in serial, are wired incorrectly. The monitor shows a charge coming in from the panels -- again, I will post a pic of the monitor soon. The previous owner seems to have wired the cabin battery to the cabin lights and into a 12V outlet, and bypassed the AC converter and breaker -- so none of the outlets function. Has anyone successfully installed solar panels to charge their deep cycle marine battery in conjunction with the alternator relay? Anyone have experience with this model of breaker/converter that I've posted below? Thanks for all your input! Cheers! 1984 Toyota Dolphin
  2. Hello! just as an update on this thread, took our rig to a shop in oakland that's been in business for 50 years, and the main man there, acquired the business 37 years ago. they re-arced the rusty, busted leafs for $540. a bit pricey, but felt it was a semi-fair price. A-1 springs 9722 MacArthur Blvd Oakland, CA 94605 Anyway, thanks for all the input!
  3. Sorry Linda, the size doesnt fit as you couldve guessed. I took the rig to a spring shop today -- they've been in business since 1950, and the owner's been working there for 37 years. Experience to the max with springs and with working with motorhomes and dolphins. Alot of dolphins here in the bay area. I have an incredible amount of rust on my chassis/undercarriage. He stocks the bushings and said he'll try to rework the existing rusty ones. If I have severe frame damage, he'd call me -- he hasn't! Yay. so I guess We'll see if he put new ones, or salvaged the rusty old ones, which he said he'd prefer. (I do too for costs sake.) quoted from $400-$600 depending on labor/parts/issues. Will check back in.
  4. Any Ideas what size leafs I need to buy? Anyone replace their leafs? Any tips, suggestions? We're working with a '84 Dolphin. I found some heavy duty leafs (9 leafs) for just under $300 with shipping. Cheers!
  5. Hello hello! We have recently purchased a 1984 Dolphin, with a gaping gash in the rear of the cab -- you could literally see daylight from inside. This weekend, we took a camping trip with some materials, minimal research and just went at it. We ripped off the ladder and roof rack, and bondo'd the holes and silicon sealed some cracks near the vent seals. We want to eventually replace the vents. Some online research shows that Liquid Rubber EPDM Roof is the best to use to seal off the roof to prevent leaks. Any suggestions? One note about the cabin is that once the gunk was removed (previous owner's haphazard fix to fill the split in the seam) and the rotted wood reinforced and replaced, the aluminum siding ballooned out when tucked back into place. Much to our despair. I plan to take sheet metal snips and cut down the 1" excess so that the siding can tuck back into place. Good idea? Bad idea? Also, the metal strip (what do I call this properly?) that covers the corner seams was removed and needs to be reinstalled, however, I need to drill new holes into the sheet metal as the holes no longer align....unsure how this happened. Also, should I replace this metal strip? It would be preferable to replace with one with a wider lip and wraparound to account for some of the warping/misshapenness. It was also warped slightly when removed and is very stiff to reapply. It seems that the back end may have collapsed down onto the rear bumper (which seems to be aftermarket and welded onto the frame?), which resulted in a split in the rear seam? I am unsure how to diagnose what may have happened, but the rear frame definitely needs a complete replacement sometime down the line. We also plan on tearing out the stove and fridge, minimalizing the weight and functionality of the rig. There are solar panels on the roof, which are wired into the cabin lighting and there is a single 12V socket. Ideally this rig will be traveled across the states and lived out of for a couple years at a minimum. I would prefer that it lasts a decade further, however, I know that it may be better to sell and rebuy another rig in the future. Pictures uploaded soon! Thanks for the input and will continue to research and dive into what has already been documented here! Cheers!
  6. Did some more research, and found a really great deal on a post '86 dolphin with a rear kitchen/bathroom that I prefer. 22RE/Manual, too! Hope they get back to me soon. The details on the ad are lacking completely, but the photos look hopeful..but the price seems way way way too low! We'll see. Soon, I will hopefully be posting in a new thread about the new purchase with photos! With all the necessary fixes/upgrades to be documented!
  7. Thanks! Found some research on tag axles online and found a vague bit about it in the "axle faqs" pdf file on the main site. From what I gather, the duallys are just as effective in payload gains and tag axles are more prevalent on 40'+ RVs (and buses) for specific reasons -- resulting in the rarity of manufacture, for seemingly good reasons. I am searching for a Dolphin to use for extensive travels because I spent many formidable years growing up in one, so I am partial to them -- not to mention the reliability of the engine. Hence, the older models with 20r instead of 22r engines. Very low mileage and affordable 1980 Dolphin with one of these tag axles nearby, but I might take a closer look at one with comparable mileage and interior for a couple thousand more. Though, I would consider a 4x4 model mh comparable to the Dolphin in same and scope. Need to find a post in the forums discussing engines & drive trains. Thanks for the input and response!
  8. Hello! I am new to the forum. Anyone have any experience with the 1980 Dolphin model with the dead axle? I have been on the search for a new mh -- specifically a dolphin. I am aware of the recommendations to upgrade the rear axle from a 5 over to a 6 lug 1ton ff; and so I have been searching appropriately until I found a couple instances of this 1980 model with the dead (aka lazy) axle. I was considering changing tires would be facilitated without the dual tire axle. Not sure the axle situation with this model, I have only seen photos and none up close. Recommendations? Cheers and thanks!
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