pinkflydxx

When I started my Coleman AC, I could hear the fan kick on, but the compressor would not start. (Last year after several attempts to start the AC, the compressor finally kicked in, and I never had any other issues for the entire year). However, so far this year, not so much luck. When I first started the AC this year, the fan was on and running, but not the compressor, so I went to the roof and removed the shroud and gently gave it a "Fred Sanford" bump. The compressor started, but stopped running a little later and would not restart at all. I purchased and replaced all three of the capacitors (Start / Run / Fan), but this did not solve the problem. During the testing of the AC / compressor after installing the new capacitors, the Run capacitor made contact with the metal housing for a moment ( I guess shorting/grounding it). However, when this happened, the compressor started running - but only while the short was occurring. There was no damage visible to the capacitor, but I replaced it with another Run capacitor (as I had purchase 2 sets just in case). The compressor will still not start. I have check continuity from the relay to the capacitors to the compressor and all show continuity. While I originally thought the compressor may have been "locked up", I am now assuming that the problem may be electrical in nature, but it does not seem possible that a "short" would cause the compressor to start. Has this happened to anyone? Any ideas on where to further investigate for the cause? Thanks.

I have been perplexed by an on again / off again leak in my overhead cab area - specifically the front window (91 Toyota Winnebago). I have sealed and resealed all the lights, and have taken the window out twice and used butyl tape - also twice. The leak seems to get resolved, then some time later reappears. I checked and sealed the overhead hatch and looked for any small holes that may have been the source. The leak was definitely coming from above the window, but I could not find it - UNTIL YESTERDAY! In removing the excess butyl tape and looking to go around the window/fiberglass joint with some high quality silicon, I found that in the upper corner of the window on the outside, the fiberglass panel was "soft". With a little pressure, it would actually push in away from the front glass aluminum frame. I am assuming that while traveling, the force of the air, would eventually push enough to open up the area enough to create a leak source. I am assuming that whatever supported the fiberglass panel, is not longer doing it's job, or may be non-existent in the curve of the upper window area. I have fixed it temporarily, but in the near future, I plan to remove the window again and use something to prevent the fiberglass panel from pushing in. I do not think that putting a lot of extra butyl tape in the area will be a long term fix. Has anyone encountered this problem, and if so, what would you suggest to use to support / reinforce this area. I thought about using some shims, or even cutting out a piece of wood to the proper thickness and matching radius as a support device for the frame to exert enough force to seal the butyl tape, but thought I would ask you folks about your experience. Thanks and safe travels.

Thanks for the suggestions. My converter/charger was a old Magnetek 6332. I checked the voltage at the 12v outlet with a multi-meter, as Gulfstream Greg suggested, and found that there was appr 12v of DC at the outlet AND 5 to 6v of AC power reading at the same outlet. I removed the old converter/charger and upgraded/installed a Progressive Dynamics PD4635V converter/charger. The install was relatively simple and took about 1 hour total. After installing, the problem appears to be completely resolved. The 12v USB outlet is now charging the cell phones properly on both battery power and shore power. Thanks again for your suggestions.

The USB adapter worked fine in other vehicles and works fine in RV as long as not on shore power. It is odd because the USB insert/adapter has a light on it to indicate that it has power and that light stays on whether on battery or shore power. It just will not charge the cell phones when on shore power. I am at a loss on this one since all other 12v items (lights, etc) work fine. I was wondering if the shore power somehow connects to the 12v system in order to charge it when plugged into shore power - and in doing so it somehow alters the 12v power supply that causes the USB item to not work at that point - perhaps changing or altering the polarity / Hz / signal waveform / etc. As I said everything else works fine on either battery or shore power - other than the USB's capability to charge the cell phones when on shore power.

I installed a 12v power supply (i.e. dual cigarette lighter style) by jumping off of the wiring going to my cabin lights over the dinette area. One of the dual plugs is a cigarette lighter style and the other is a dual USB plug - for charging cell phones, etc. When I am using the cabin battery (not on shore power), both plugs operate perfectly (cigarette lighter side and dual USB plugs). However, whenever I am plugged into shore power, the dual USB plugs will not work properly - i.e. they will not charge the cell phones. All the 12v lights work as they should and as best I can tell the 12v cigarette lighter side of the plug seems to work properly. As soon as shore power is disconnected, the dual 12v USB plugs work fine and cell phones charge properly. Any ideas on what is going on with this? Currently my solution is that, when on shore power, I will charge the phones by using the 120v plugs - and when traveling or boondocking use the 12v plugs. Not a major inconvenience, but curious as to why this may be occurring. Thanks.

Update: I found that I was able to remove the generator's starter without having to drop/remove the generator - but it was not a simple matter getting access to all the screws and nuts that had to be removed. A couple of the starter's mounting screws were very difficult to access and to get a wrench on for removal (the two on the forward/right side of the starter). I just had to take my time and take little turns with the wrench. The good news is that after removing the starter, I hooked it up to a battery and found that it was indeed the problem as it would not turn or kick out the starter gear at all. I also noticed that it had a burnt electrical smell to it. So, I now have a starter ordered and on it's way and will install it shortly after arrival - although I am not looking forward to putting those two difficult mounting screws back in upon installation. Thanks for your assistance. UPDATE #2: The starter was installed and the generator is fully functional again. I was able to mount the starter without removing or dropping the generator, but the putting the screws back in was somewhat difficult (limited space and limited visibility in the location where they had to be placed).

I have not tried jumping it yet. I checked the starter solenoid/relay with a multi-tester. When I hit the starter rocker switch, the solenoid will click, and the multi-meter goes from 0 volts to 12 volts, and then 0 when the switch it off again. Based on this check, I am assuming that the relay is working properly, and the starter may be bad. I will try jumping the starter by bypassing the relay switch. If that does not work then I am working under the direction that the starter is bad and needs to be replaced. If replacement is needed, do you have any tips or suggestions on how to replace it - short of removing/dropping the generator to access the starter? Thanks.

Recently, my Kohler/Tecumseh generator would not start, or even turn over. I confirmed that I am getting power to the starter relay, and that the relay appears to be functioning correctly - with power getting to the starter when the on start switch is engaged. I tried "pecking" on the starter, but still nothing. I also turned the flywheel at the top of the starter (assuming this would tell me if the engine is locked up). Anyway, at this point I am looking at replacing the starter on the unit and would like to ask the members here if there is some relatively easy way to do this. Due to the location of the starter, I do not see a reasonable way to change the starter, short of removing the generator itself. It appears that the generator can be dropped by removing the several bolts around the bottom plate/mounting plate area. Do you think I am on the right track as far as it being the starter? Any suggestions on other items to check? and lastly, any tricks or suggestions or shortcuts on getting to the starter for removal? Thanks.

I replaced my AC belt a few months ago on my 3.0. I was able to get the part number from the old belt and it crossed over to a Gates 13A0900 belt. I put it on and it fit perfectly (after tension adjustment). FYI - this PN may cross reference to various other manufacturer part numbers. If I recall correctly, the belt is 0.500" wide by appr 36" in total length. With the tension adjustment on the AC belt, it fit fine, although I believe that other belts with similar lengths (i.e. 35 / 35.5 / 36.5") would also probably fit ok, but may require more or less tension adjustment. Also, it had been a while since the tension bolt had been adjusted, and in loosening it for belt removal, the head snapped right off of it. So, I replaced it with a makeshift stainless bolt since my local Fastenal did not have a bolt with threads on the entire shaft length, so I used stainless all thread with a stainless nut tack welded to make the head (I also think these were metric thread sizes). So far no problems, other than having to go back under a few weeks later and readjust (tighten). If it loosens again, I will probably put another nut on it to help lock it into place (assuming that the bolt is loosening due to vibration as opposed to the belt stretching a bit). And, of course, the AC belt required removal of two other belts, but not a extremely difficult process, just a bit more time involved.

Thanks for the responses. At this point, it is not leaking, however, due to the pooling around the A/C unit, I think that it is just a matter of time that a leak will occur. I like the idea of putting aluminum support channels along side of the rafters and spanning from side header to side header, which would require removing cabinets and the interior ceiling panels. I am meeting with an RV repair guy tomorrow to review the situation and get his opinion on possible options.

I would like to find an RV repair center that could do a roof repair or replacement for my 91 Toyota Winnebago Warrior (due to the inevitable A/C sagging). I am located in Central Kentucky and would like to have your recommendations and suggestions on a repair service in my general area. I have done various internet searches, but the "Big Box" RV sales outlets are non-responsive or excessively expensive. Thanks in advance for your help.

Upon reassembly, mine was in similar condition. I tried to alleviate some of the "excess" by loosening (not removing completely) some of the screws that were in the trim and screwed into the metal frame in the sidewalls on both sides before tightening down the aluminum spanner pieces together. My thought was to allow the fiberglass skin the opportunity to be "squeezed" into the area between the trim and the frame boards under the sidewalls when I did reassemble/screw together the aluminum spanner pieces. Then after I tightened down the aluminum spanner pieces together, the fiberglass skin more or less went into place very well - at least no noticeable "puckering" of the fiberglass skin. Then I re-tightened the screws in the trim (attached to the metal sidewall frame).

Thanks for the details on the bed reconstruction. I completed mine this weekend. I did not demo the floor down to the fiberglass skin, but the wood frame under the sidewalls and across the aluminum seam joints were almost completely rotted, along with some of the luan top and bottom layers of the composite floor. The U-section and the foam were in very good shape so I did not have to rebuild them. The two pieces that were used on the aluminum seam were plywood and in such bad condition that I could literally crumble them with my hands. They were so bad I can't believe that they held us up as long as they did. I replaced the frame pieces under the sidewalls with pressure treated wood, along with the 2 wood pieces that joined with the aluminum seam / span piece. I used self tapping screws through the exterior trim to connect all of these to the sidewall metal framing.. I was pleasantly surprised by the fact that the sidewalls have a metal frame for support - one less rotted wood replacement required. One thing to note - and someone noted it in cabover bed rebuild - the seam joint reassembly is not an easy task. I had two friends helping hold everything in place and putting it all together, and even then it was not easy.. Maybe there is some other "trick" to doing it (maybe gluing the fiberglass skin to the boards), but if you are going to disassemble this joint, plan ahead on how you are going to put it back together. After getting everything in place, I put a layer of luan over the top of it all, and used the sidewall angles and top of the aluminum seam piece to screw it down, and put a few more screws along the coach edge and u-section. Finally, I put a piece of 3/4 birch plywood on top of the angles to help distribute the weight over a larger area instead of on the seam itself and to use the sidewall metal frames to help support the weight on the cabover floor area. In using the plywood, I gave up the use of the U-section, but after owning this RV for 3.5 years, I realized that we really have never removed it, so it was not a loss for us. All in all, it was not as bad as I thought it would be, but one that you need to pay attention to how the pieces come out, AND putting together a workable plan of reassembly.

As I am replacing the cabover bed floor, I also found that the floor is a "composite" of materials. It looks like there originally was a thin luan material on the bottom, then a layer of 1" x 3" framing filled with styrofoam insulation material, then covered with another thin luan material, and finally a plastic sheet. It also appears that this floor was built / designed as a single composite component to make up the floor. It also appears to extend to under the cantilevered sidewalls of the cabover area. I am considered replacing the entire composite structure with a single piece of 3/4 plywood, along with some 1" framing material where the channel you pictured earlier is located. I am wondering how you did your flooring and/or how you can rebuild the single floor component in order to get it underneath of the sidewalls. Do you have to take off the exterior trim in that area and bring it up underneath or do you have a technique to position under both sidewalls? Thanks

I am in the process of repairing / replacing the floor/bed area of the cabover of my 91 Warrior. When I took out channel that you showed in the picture, the orientation is that the part nearest your thumb went towards the front of the vehicle.