Sierra-rader

Thank you... Ok, so above you stated: "As long as you use the Tundra lugs on the 3 hand hole wheels in front all of this will never be an issue. Keep the old lugs in you glove box in case you ever need to put the spare on. Truth is the old lugs will even hold the 3 hand hole wheel just fine." So is the tundra lug a flat seat, and thus the preferred lug nut? With a cone/taper m14 lug nut, the taper seats far enough into the front wheel that the flats *just* begin to touch the surface of the wheel. They certainly center the wheel, but I don't want to screw anything up.

So, if my reading comprehension is working right.... Is it right that a 3 hole wheel mounted on the front on the 5 to 6 lug adapter (as seen early in this thread) requires a "mag seat" (flat) 14x1.5 lug nut? I'm trying to finish my conversion to six lug adapters (and single spare) on my 86 sunrader. Six hand rears, three hand front wheels on the adapters. Everything is done but I have the wrong lug nuts for the front.

Nice. And a bottle of wine to celebrate your arrival in the valley.... :-) Upper pines campground? My profile pic is our rig parked in Curry village. Visit the big trees out of Wawona if you have a chance. Really nice, though not as amazing as Sequoia park.

Faster than molasses

Shift down, take your time. Our 21ft 86' does fine going to Yosemite- down and back up and out of the valley. Stock radiator, saw temps climb on Priest grade- hwy 120, but not above 3/4. I wouldn't hit a big grade in the hottest time of the day....

Recently got a set of the Nexen SV820. Seems pretty good so far, reasonable price.

Excellent! I particularly like the bike rack. Looking to put our new-to-us rig into MTB trip use this summer, too. Gotta mount up a hitch like yours first. Can you tell if the hitch was welded or bolted on, by chance?

Check your private messages for a lead.

Those AW71s in the turbo volvos ( turbobricks.com ) hold up to a fair bot of abuse behind modded motors with lots more power than any 22RE. Interesting list!

Sounds like a great project! I am enjoying the little repair / improvement projects on ours, since buying it recently. It's proving to be the best application of my long standing interest in LEDs. Sounds like you have some good wandering plans on your horizon in the new rig :-)

You know, the signals work the way I expected- they are flashing at the fast "bulb out" rate. I am going to switch the relay out for a heavy duty one, but I have so far been unable to separate the thing from where it's plugged into under the fuse box at the kick panel. If anyone knows how to unclip the signal relay, I'd much appreciate knowing the trick (its an 86' truck)I would prefer to swap the relay than install resistors.

Well, sooner than later came. With my son's assistance, we took some plexiglass, cut by the hardware store, drilled mounting holes, etc. Then painted the backing plates, mounted up two surface - mount "trucker" style LED taillights, and replaced those darn "reflecto - lite" originals. Simple, bright, and much more reliable than the original unit

When I was running the wires for a backup cam, I followed the path of the taillight wires- on our rig, they can be found going through a large grommet in the floor under the passenger seat. I assume that the reverse wire is in there somewhere. Inside the cab, they run along the floor into the fender- side kick panel where the engine computer is. Since I'm running the cam constant-on as a rear view mirror of sorts, I didn't tap the reverse signal. Hope this helps.

Thanks! The slide over the sink is just not there... The rest work, but a couple have a folded-over joint in them. I really prefer that fiberglass upper cabinet style- clean look. Not sure how to replace those slides, but you have me interested... First I need to rebuild the kitchen cabinet- get that level again...