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The lights will run off the battery the outlets will not, The converter should charge the coach batteries. With the blown fuse what does not work? If the fridge is in DC mode try turning that off.

Got to ask why?

Yes there was. He took it out and replaced it with a 4 post typical shotgun approach. There is a fair length of small black wire going to the negative battery post for the isolator ground instead of connected to the isolator mount or any decent close ground. The shorter the length of wire at 12 volts the better.

Running it on propane is the most efficient. The DC side is a power hog it uses a heating element.

Be care mice can carry Henna versus don't mass around with dropping etc unless you are well masked and covered.

Your photo shows a 3 post isolator relay not a 4 then another one shows 4 post? The 3 post is wired correctly. I would cut the black wire short and ground it to the isolator mount not the battery. Due to the voltage drop at the - battery post at the battery with a heavy current draw.

Good find, that's about as simple as it gets much easier on paper where you can easily see it.

Well with 4WD it would have a low range not fast up but pretty much go any where.

Austin isn't exactly small! There has got to be some one there that can cut and temper glass!

12.8 volts is a fully charged resting battery. The 80 fuse looks fine to me it by the way is bolted in it will not pull out.

It's probably tempered glass I don't think you would want plate glass in a motor home. I would go with plastic.

More often than not the thin cable inside wares a grove in the outer cable where it curves the most so no amount of lube will fix it. Those transmission are exceptionally dependable and they do an amazing job with a vehicle that's way over weight. Although the cable replacement is pretty straight forward it does require the trans pan to be removed so it's not a really easy backyard project. It's real name is a TV cable (throttle valve) often called a "kick down cable".

It doesn't have any.

The shot gun approach generally leads to an empty wallet. Can you take some pictures of just what you have?

You should be able to move the cable with your finger engine off there should be a fair amount of movement 1/2 an inch or so with and easy return of the cable. If isn't moving it maybe stuck full throttle that will cause it not to shift. If it's just broken it will quick shift. There are two cables one for the throttle the other for the trans. Because of the MH weight full throttle is pretty normal so I guessing it's stuck full throttle. Not a guarantee but the TV cable usually has a red boot at the throttle body. If all else fails the trans pan will need to be dropped to have a look.

I remember 18 cent gasoline!

Don't think I have ever seen a circuit breaker connected to the high current side of an isolator. Low side maybe clicking would lead to a faulty solenoid however.

Most likely you have the single small wire isolator usually the two wire is used for transmission starting isolation. The small wire is for the key switch. So there are two type of relays that look exactly a like that one is strictly for starting the engine it can not be use as an isolator relay it will over heat and eventually fail the other is continues duty it can stay on indefinitely might get a little warm but not hot if it's hot it is the wrong relay. The small wire in the case of the isolator is what engages the isolator nothing else. Volt meter/test light at this point is your friend. With the key off there should be zero voltage at the small terminal. The case of the isolator relay it needs a good body ground to work properly if it is poor this could be your clicking issue, poor grounds can do some very strange things . With the volt meter one probe to a known good ground the other to the case of the rely there should be zero voltage when it's on. If it has two small terminals one should have a small wire going to ground for RV use. Can't see it from my house so I hope this will work for you.

Quite often battery are not marked. The + post is all ways bigger then the negative. The click I'm going to bet is the charger/converter it is very common issue with reversed battery polarity. A lot of DC stuff doesn't really care about polarity the charger/converter does.

Any auto parts store will have an assortment of "O" rings.

Got to ask Carburetor? Seems like a quantum leap backwards.

The biggest issue with the 22RE was the timing chain and tensioners. The 22RE had a single roller chain (22R's were double) I remember having to replace timing case covers, chains, tensioners, oil pumps. They were extreme cases but many people didn't seem to notice or care about the rattle. Both engines had head gasket issue but I would not call it chronic.

Your biggest problem is going to the sensors and wiring there was a lot emission stuff going on during that time I would also expect the ECM to be different. The engine it's self is basically the same. Not being able to see it from my house you maybe able to swap the old sensors to the newer engine and use the same ECM.

You will wreck it getting it out. The easiest way is remove the tail stock. A bushing driver is the best way. Take the tail stock to a transmission shop or machine shop won't take them long to replace it.