Maineah

Dude you got a mess there well butchered over the years. Once upon a time it had a dam the AC unit fit over higher than the roof. In a mess like that I have used nylon cord to cut loose the sealant people have added. Many people have thrown away the rectangular piece that comes with the AC gasket that actually is a support for the rear of the AC unit. Good luck best of wishes.

Try your very best to get the old pieces out without destroying them you will need them as a pattern. I'll assume it's not your first rodeo it's not exactly and easy project.

Well it's hard to judge. 1/4" is out there in 4X4 and 4X8 you will have a lot of waste no matter what you do. Just take an overall measurement and go for it you can always go back and get more as needed.

Good, dime stores are not you best source of quality equipment. 13.8 is a good charge voltage, a battery is a resistance load, A fully charged resting battery voltage is 12.8.

Ok get a spray bomb of deoxit and blast the connectors plug them back in and out a few times. The system relies on a battery reading or it will go full smoke no matter what you do. I can't remember what year they stopped using external regulators but they were what controlled the charge current not the alternator. With no sensing they will charge as tight as the alternator will produce it. The voltage is applied to the F terminal if it is way above battery voltage it thinks the battery is dead.

No fixing that diff! You may luck out with a scrap yard that only sold the jackpot and put your old one in the junkyard replacement. I would be knocking on the door of the shop that "fixed" it. I would love to see the akle out of the hub that would tell the story because all the evidence as to what happend is still inside.

Should be fine linda it is listed for indoor use. The plywood won't work well as framework that's what is roten in his door. The framework is about 1X1" There is basically nothing inside the door but some Styrofoam.

What's on the other side? They don't look like isolator color or gauge to me.

The Alternator is not self exciting it has to have a battery connection to make power.

You will need to find a friend with a table saw. All of the ones I have done I used pressure treated wood be very picky about the lumber, treated wood is far from the best quality and is prone to being full of knots. The skin is very thin and will bend easily so be careful with that. The price of a new door will scare you so a little effort on your part you can actually build a better one.

You see more black positive in more modern campers it follows house wiring black hot white ground. Red is also used as + in house wiring also. My Nova Star was green and blue go figure. My 1990 camper is black and white on lighting, heavy DC loads red+. The RV DC stuff does not have to follow NEMA excet on AC wiring (outlets, AC, water heaters any thing that's AC powered.

Black or red that's pretty much + in RV's but when wires have been tinkered anything goes.

Nope what you see is what you get there is no adjustment. All though he might luck out with a shifter bushing (10 minute job) the discerption fit's a broken fork bolt both 3 and 4th are on the same shift rail. There is a point on the end of the bolt it will still be in the shift rail and every thing will look fine but it won't shift you will know right away the rail will move the fork won't. Haven't had one apart since the mid 90's actually they are very easy to work on.

His is a 86 either one will fit but yes a 92 would have had a 5 speed. The owner installed the 22RE.

If you have a shifter bushing coming try that first. Kind of remember the 4 speeds shift forks breaking the tip of the pin that holds the fork to the shift rail. The rail would move but not the fork. That unfortunately is a transmission out and apart job there is no other way to fix it.

Interesting device, charging a battery only to discharge it! Don't forget to take into account battery chemistry, house and truck. The inverter is capable of drawing 80+ DC amps so that some thing to think about when you start plugging things in!

Old transformer power supplies bottom line suck, they are very poorly regulated and will boil the water out of the battery long term. Switching supplies are close to 60% lighter far more efficient and will not over charge your battery. Beyond a doubt it is one of the best upgrades for any older motor home. It can operate 24/7 year round with out damage to the battery. The output current rating generally is greater than the old clunker chargers so that not an issue either They will charge equally as fast as old chargers if not faster. Solar collector chargers are also switching regulated and can be used with modern chargers. Their only redeeming value they have lot's of copper windings if you are into collecting scrap metal.

One issue with the house battery is distance and a #10 wire.

I don't believe it has a cable.

It's very likely is related to the speed sensor. Hey you need one any way!

The battery has zero to do with the AC or the outlets. There is a 20 amp breaker for the AC and a 15 for the outlets. Some panels also had a 30 amp breaker that controls the 15 and 20 from the main power point plug in.

I think I would very skeptical about the up side down power panel. I thought it was just the way the camera was held. There is very little space back there real easy to yank some wiring free not even sure how they did it. Me I would unplug the house power and the battery and pull the panel. Crossing DC with AC wiring is a big no no.

Little late into this so I'm not real sure what you are trying to. The fuse panel is fed battery voltage through the red and white #10 wires. First thing I would look at is the red wire it has been hot enough to blacken the insolation. Not a good thing. The #10 white wire is the fuse panel ground. It is a 30 amp panel max. The other colors are for accessories lighting etc. Not that it makes a difference but you image is up side down. What is the thing you are trying to hook up? I have no ideal what a Bluetti is.

Shimmed valve heads are not for the faint of heart! Hopefully a good shop has some one with a clue. I learned decades ago on Jaguar's they were a pain, measure, remove the cams, replace the shim to the proper size, reassemble check them again! The shim was the size of a dime it fit on top of the valve stem under the bucket the were sized for A to Z each letter was a different size! The concept of a shim valve is good because (it says here in the fine print) every thing wares at the same rate the only variable is valve stretch.

Where did the axle break? Not location!