Maineah

I run mine all the time only time I turn it off is when I want breaking or when it shifts up and down going up over repeated small hills. The O/D will shift down if it needs to. I know some say never use O/D but I don't like the extra noise and it's easier on fuel. I worked in a transmission shop for quite a few years and I would have to say stop and go is far harder on a transmission then using O/D. Due to the fact that the transmission works pretty hard moving a 6,ooo # little MH I would recomend a fluid flush every 30,000 miles they run pretty hot and that is hard on the fluid also if it does not have an extra cooler add one. (it looks like a tiny radiator)

Well I have a 97 2.7 and the only thing I have done to it other then normal service was a clutch at 207K and O2 sensors so far it has made it 245K. Mine has all ways had a flat spot at about 3,000 rpm but it comes out of it and runs fine. I think yours could use a fuel filter and a good going over don't know what your wire might be I'll look at mine and see if it has one. An O2 sensor will throw a code it's new enough to have an OBD2 port so if you can get some one to scan it it may tell you some tales as it will run in real time.

As far as the electric side you really don't have to do any thing other then turn the knob to either "elec" or "12v" and it does the rest. The "gas" should have 2 buttons one you have to hold in the the other one you push and it should "snap" that's the lighter there is a tiny window next to the push button and if it's lit you should see a slight yellow glow. It has a fail safe so if it does not light it shuts off the gas when you let go of the button. Some times it will take 2 or 3 times to get it lit. Don't hold in the button with out pushing the lighter button for a long time though.

Good find, be sure you do the best you can water proofing your connections.

Mine is an "87" every thing looks the same "U" joints,flanges I'm guessing one of the drive shafts is longer but I have never measured my Tacoma it's pretty long.

What type do you have the Domedic has a knob that is marked 12v, gas, and elec and no they will not switch by them self's. Idiot lights would be nice the Dometic has a little window that lets you see the flame for the gas (and it better be dark out or you won't see it!) but that's it. I guess the newer ones do have lights by mine sure does not.

I had to roll under my MH it sure looks exactly like the one I recently put in my 97 Tacoma 4X4 extended cab I got a dollar that says it's the same thing. Grab one from NAPA and ask if you can bring it back if it's not the same.

Probably not they do fail but they are pretty tough and it seems to be across the board so all of them failing at the same time is pretty slim. The ETC controls the solenoids and the lockup.

Give your local auto parts store a try I do not think there is any thing unusual about the assembly it's most likely the same as an extended cab Toyota 4X4 pickup.

It sounds like an ETC (electronic transmission control) problem they either work or they don't nothing half way. Check your fuses take a look at your Toyota manual if you have it and see if you can find an ETC fuse. If the fuses looks good pull it out for a few seconds and put it back in and see what happens. If that does not do any thing disconnect your battery and try it again. Beyond that you'll need some one to check it out for you.

Hesitates when you step on it or just when you drive along?

About the only way your are going get the MH on is front way around so you are probably going to have a fair amount of over hang. I just measured mine it's 136" wheel base so your looking at 11'6" most heavy trailers are more then long enough. I don't think I would like to haul one with dollies it would be a hand full and you run the risk of dragging the back end on bumps. Also you would have no breaks on the towed MH. Does his truck have a 5th wheel hitch? Usually the 5th wheel hitch will be good for 17,000# or more. Got a excavator guy in town maybe he will rent one of his trailers.

Fitting a tow bar to it is going to be problematic the bumper will never hold it. I think you are pretty close with 5500# I would think a duel axle trailer with the weight rating to go along with it would be the best bet some thing that size would most likely have electric brakes.

Yes, you will be glad you did. You might contact bestconverter.com he may have a kit for your present converter they are a nice outfit to deal with. A 40 or 45 amp is less then $10 more then a 35 I would go for the 45 amp. The newer ones are quiet no hum no hash and are 3 stage chargers.

I would say go for it that's a good price provided it has the one ton rear, with a 5 lug rear and a bad trans it's not worth much. Any good independent (stay away from the franchised shops) should be able to help you out. You might try the web for some rebuilt units and get some one to put it in locally.

Open invitation to any one that will be in the Mount Washington valley in Oct. We have 80 acres of land with in 20 mins. of Conway NH and the white mountains so if you would like to come and camp it would be fine with us we would love to see another Toy or two in the yard. Early Oct. is beautiful with the foliage and there is the famous Fryeburg country fair going on too.

One thing you guys need to think about is running the generator in the compartment. The Onan and the Koller are designed to run in an enclosed area no fuel tank to fill, heat removal and an exhaust that is out side of the MH. They are also hard wired to the MH and have provisions for a transfer switch of some sort. This of course is a moot point if you buy a generator that you take out and put on the ground it's just that very few are designed to run in a box. If you can afford it the Onan can't be beat.

That's too much what keeps all the toys on the MH? He looks like some one I would like to meet.

Bottom line yes the governor rings are internal the assembly comes out the front. The biggest bugaboo is the fact that it is erratic I do not believe your transmission is new enough to be fully electronic even if it is it still has a governor generally the ETC’s controlled lockup and shift tailoring. If the governor is hanging up there is a reason usually bits of metal from worn parts in the unit. They were known for broken governor rings some times damaging the case (that is repairable however) Finding any transmission shop with pressure gauges will be hard most shops have basically seen it all if the pressures are off there is a problem and it’s not external so the unit has to come out any way. Is there an independent transmission in your area?

Mine is a "87" Nova Star made by New Horizon it lives at 43'58.00n 70'52.805w (hint southwestern Maine near N.H. border).

About the only thing I can think of other then the cable would be the governor. Erratic shifting could be caused by broken governor sealing rings or hanging parts inside of the governor it’s self. The governor has weights that are forced outwards by the rotation of the drive shaft against spring and hydraulic pressure so if some thing is messed up there it can cause your problem but it usually will cause down shifting issues also (it may not drop back into a lower gear as you slow down). Adjusting your cable should have a dramatic effect do you have a small pair of vice grips? If you do pull the inner cable out by hand and clamp it so it can’t go back in and drive it, it should shift very late or not at all. If that does not do much or it still shifts erratic you’ll have to find a good transmission shop because the problem is most likely internal. Let me know what you find I have a friend that still is in the transmission business and he is just a call away.

I am pretty sure the ECM fuse is linked to the exciter for the alternator. There is a wire that feeds the alternator that is energized when the key is on. It wakes up the regulator that is inside of the alternator and turns off the regulator/alternator when the key is turned off I think it is white with a black tracer it goes to the alternator terminal marked "ign". Don't assume it is the alternator causing the problem there is other wiring that is under that fuse if that wire loses power it will quit charging and that is probably why it died at night.

My guess the little sensor was an after market cruse control and it probably had a magnet on the drive shaft once upon a time. Wonder if there is still such a thing as a speedometer shop any more now that they have become so complex and digital?

Try these guys they have the closest stuff I have seen yet for the Nova Star: http://www.all-rite.com/ lots of pictures. I doubt that you would get the old stuff off and be able to reuse it.

Sounds like you need to find some one that understands what they are doing. You may or may not have a solid state isolator if it is not solid state the alternator will charge the truck battery even if the isolator is bad. If it is solid state a simple jumper wire will bypass it for test purposes. The guy told you your alternator was bad, either he needs to put your old one back on, refund your money or fix it. This is not rocket science some one that understands electrical systems should have no problem with this. He had a lot of nerve charging you to try and find out what was wrong after he sold you a part you did not need.