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Everything posted by Maineah

  1. Scotchlocks are ok but not exposed to any kind of weather. Butt connectors are ok if crimped properly but again no good in the weather. They do make butt connectors with built in shrink tube they are pretty weatherproof. Size is important they must match the wire gauge.
  2. I'm 75 I worked on vehicles for 38 years it took the American industry decades to realize that the Europeans had the right ideal about carburetors.
  3. Remove the filter blow thu it if it resistive replace it. Mabe a good ideal to blow air back into the tank also they have a screen filter inside the tank. A carbureted engine any more is a dinosaur think lawn mower then remember why they were hard to start or ran poorly.
  4. In the older engines without electronics the pcv does not play much of a roll in engine management the effect would generally be seen in engine idle (faster than normal). I think you are on the right tract with filter/fuel lines.
  5. I'm a little late to this party but throwing parts at it is a no win situation. You generally don't fix it and spend a lot of money doing so. If the igniter is toes up you aren't going anywhere. It sure sounds to me like a fuel issue.
  6. Basically if it's comfortable enough for the occupants it's OK however I do know people that would have to be tied down in bed! The little square bubble levels are good enough I just put one in the fridge.
  7. If you are running on battery alone that maybe your problem they draw a lot of power from the battery. After resting the battery will recover enough to restart the heater. If it's cold out the only why you will get by is to have the motorhome plugged in to the mains.
  8. The valve seat is harder than the valve the first thing to ware is the valve. It is quite a task to replace them why do they all need replacement?
  9. Yeah you really don't want to wake up dead.
  10. Some has been there before you. The 30 is the main it is the breaker that protects everything else. Generally you would see a 30, 15 and a 20 amp breaker. So with 3 20 amp breakers it would be easy to overload the 30 amp. The AC would require a 20 amp for the start current a 20 for the microwave and a 15 for everything else. The AC is direct wired no outlet boxes. A cheap tool that pretty much any hardware store would have is a little $5 plug in gidget with 3 little lights, plug it into any outlet a start turning off breakers till you find the one that has no effect that will be for the AC. (t
  11. The individual motorhome people did not make the doors and hardware they were sourced from others the hardware on my 1990 Sunline camper are exactly the same as my 1987 New Horizon toy home. The roller catches are usually stock by hardware stores.
  12. Pretty much an industry standard most RV places will have what you need.
  13. Shorted or reversed polarity wires. It's a thermal cut out it will get hot then trip (ping or clicking noise) It is a bit unusual for a switch to use black and white wires together I'm assuming that is the pump switch. They are heavier that the other wires so I'm guessing it is.
  14. Yes it does have a choke. It is electric once the engine is running it slowly opens.
  15. I can't remember but I think the microlite had a low oil shut off. It doesn't hold a lot of engine oil so a little bit goes a long way.
  16. EGR code. Does not mean it's bad several parts involved it maybe be just dirty should have no effect on drivability unless it's jammed wide open.
  17. Word of caution if your trans is an automatic the leak needs to be fixed. It probably is a worn tail stock bushing if that is ignored it will damage the trans because it supports the output shaft and the governor assembly and will ware groves in the trans case.
  18. I'm still a bit confused something has to tell this thing it's lit generally a probe right in the flame path. If it lights the spark part is working but something has to tell this thing the flame is going otherwise it will just continue let raw gas into the furnace. I think I understood it lit and then went out and that would point to thermocouple of some sort. The one with two insulated rods and a3rd ground would make sense to me because one would be a flame sense.
  19. As I said before flat towing any automatic will damage it eventually they are pressure lubed no pump no lube. The disengaged clutch pack clearance should be enough not to cook the clutch pack but anything is possible.
  20. 4 Wire are heated O2 sensors the plan was to bring them up to temp faster cold O2 sensors were less efficient because they are temp sensitive they have to be hot to work. I kind of think the T series were heated due to their age.
  21. I have done several of these things. Pressure treated 2X4's ripped in half. You can save the material that covers everything and if the insolation is junk rigid insulation (pink stuff). Use long cabinet screws at the joints. They leak it's just the way they are that's why I use treated wood.
  22. That's probably the thermocouple then it's a probe that is right in the flame path it is heated by the flame and if it does not work it shuts the gas off.
  23. The igniter will show no resistance even if it's good it is an open circuit. It kinda looks like the electrodes are bent in towards one another. The gap of the two should be greater than the two pointing up that is where the arc should take place not on the long part of the rods.
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