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Maineah

Toyota Advanced Member
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About Maineah

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    Over 200 Posts!
  • Birthday 01/17/1946

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Camping, kayaking. cross country skiing, ham radio/electronics

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    "87" New hHorizon Nova Star
  • Location
    Brownfield, Maine

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  1. There is a decent bit of frame under there if your clearance is iffy it's best to let the axle hang by lifting it by the frame.
  2. Just a heads up to you Honda 2200 generator owners there is recall for fuel leaking from the shut off valve.
  3. If you are plugged in the converter should supply 12 volts DC to the pump and lights (and charge the battery). Disconnect your coach battery plug in the RV and see it the lights and pump still work if not you have a issue with the converter. If you are using water in the winter what are you going to do with the waste water?
  4. It usually is where the drain is in the side of the tank inside the door it's a mucher larger hole and was not a stock item.
  5. OK here is the deal your RV panel is what is called a sub panel a sub panel is wired differently than a normal panel it's white wires (neutral) are not grounded unlike a house this is a safety precaution so it can't touch and thing that is grounded or the protection would become mute. They do sell the buss bars at big box stores in various lengths I would replace it they are cheap it's been cooked pretty good. One work around would be nylon screws and nuts with a plastic/phenolic backing and re bolt it to the panel just letting it hang my not be the best bet. One of the best dielectrics is Noalox it also is used with dissimilar metals copper/aluminum.
  6. I had another look at you mess. Due to the corrosion on the large white wire I believe this has been going on for awhile the load on the white wire was a high resistance fault such as a loose screw it in turn cause the entire buss bar to get hot, really hot. The buss is a floating neutral the black plastic thing behind the buss keeps it from contacting the case of the load center most of it is pretty cooked more so where the large white wire is landed. The use of high demand things like a microwave and or the AC will cause overheating of a poor connection this kind of load is like a high resistance load from space heater. This is not from a short circuit otherwise it would have tripped a breaker either in the camper or the city outlet it was connected to. There really is only one fix replace the load center and cut back/replace the wires that were over heated. This kind of fault is why we are now pledged with arc fault breakers this is the kind of thing that sets fire to houses.
  7. You got some serious smoke there tell me about you power cord? Does it have a replacement end?
  8. Yeah some one had the right ideal right down to the real trans cooler $900 is a great deal you will have fun with that.
  9. Insulation R factor close it zero.
  10. To my knowledge they are all the same as all of the vent openings they fit in are 14X14.
  11. It is very difficult to get the horse back in once the gate is opened. The head of the bolt turns inside the gate valve so it's normal for the shaft to turn.
  12. Maineah

    Hunter.

    Ok yes once you are plugged in the converter/ charger does two things it powers the lights etc. and charges the battery at a pretty slow rate it is weighted towards the lights etc. Now in a proper (and normal) setup the alternator charges the coach battery also through a device known as an isolator there are two different types but for simplicity they both accomplish the same thing that system has nothing to do with the converter it comes on with the truck key. Now an inverter is all together different it has nothing to do with battery charging and ever thing to do with battery draw down its purpose is to make household power TV's blenders etc anything you can plug in drawing power from the battery. Solar power has a good deal of advantages because it is self supporting you have two choices charge the truck or charge the coach battery. It can be as simple as battery clamps connected to your battery of choice it will need some type of controller but the wiring is simple. Integrating into the existing system is as simple as directly connecting to the battery it does not have to go through any thing to work. Standard RV wiring is either a #8 or #6 wire as a main feed both are sufficient for all purposes of power supply or battery charging. Again a inverter is not a battery charging system a converter is, replacing the old converter is definitely a step into the modern world they are light years better than the old converters.
  13. The gasket kit comes with the 14X14 gasket and a strange rectangular one. It fits under the end of the AC unit don't forget to replace that one! you will be amazed about how flat the gasket is as compared to the new one the RV repair guys say every 5 years max. You will also be pleased with how much quieter the AC is. When I did the one on my Nove Star it was flat as a pancake and the entire frame work of the AC unit was sealed with silicon sealant that of course did no good and I didn't think I would ever get the thing off the roof.
  14. Well here is the problem first the demand on the AC unit will be max so the current use will be max. The system uses water to cool the condenser so as it does the water in the RV water tank gets hotter constantly lowering the efficiency to the point it becomes pretty much unusable. The boat system use sea water to cool the condenser it's temp is in quite cool and plentiful. It is pretty much like a household system you might find in the south they use two wells one to cool the other to dump hot water in so the water temp remains low while cooling the condenser. Even the small AC systems in a toy home are in the 7,000 btu range the bigger ones up into the 13,000 range I can tell you a 7000 btu one is marginal my Nova Star had one driven by an onboard generator it was better than sitting in the hot sun but barely.
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