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Toyota Advanced Member
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About Maineah

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    Over 200 Posts!
  • Birthday 01/17/1946

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  • Interests
    Camping, kayaking. cross country skiing, ham radio/electronics

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    "87" New hHorizon Nova Star
  • Location
    Brownfield, Maine

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  1. The front disks are age dependent the swap over rear is not, your front ones should be a 5 bolt hub that had different front brakes than the later 6 bolt. In the UK they had a "Stout" it was a long wheel base truck with a 1 ton diff. those will be the rear ones you are looking for.
  2. Yeah there were a few of them but with the extra weight they were not much fun to park!
  3. The first question is how much is "runs right through it"? A quart or two in 3,000 mile will not show up as "smoking". The 22RE were known to leak oil at the crank seal it is very hard to see and because of the pan below the engine it often didn't show up on the ground. If you are losing oil that would be my guess if everything else seems to be in order, it was a pretty common leak.
  4. I don't think there is enough room between the wheels on a toy home, you would run a risk of damaging the other tire.
  5. Mix a little a little liquid detergent and water in a squirt bottle spray it on suspect areas a leak will blow some pretty neat bubbles. Old single stage regulators would often spit out a puff of propane if they had not been on for awhile that's ok.
  6. Zep floor wax it will shine like a new penny. May not hide all the cracks but it will shine.
  7. Water in the tank? Dump in some dry gas also known as ethanol!
  8. For $45 I would guess "refurbished" translates to "recharged". There are only about 3 battery manufacturers in the entire country but a lot of different labels. If you are curious about the battery quality side by side pick it up buy the heaviest one.
  9. Feel free to ask questions there really is no such a thing as a stupid question only dumb answers.
  10. If it lights all of the stuff is doing it's thing in order for it to stay lit it needs feedback from the flame sensor/thermocouple. On fail it will go into post purge and the t stat will have to be reset to repeat the process. If it fails the fan will run until it kills the battery unless the t stat is reset. But it won't light unless there is enough wind.
  11. That maybe so but that does not mean the fuel pressure is correct. The pump deadheaded fuel pressure is close to 80 psi the working pressure is about 35 psi it is the only thing in the entire fuel injection that is constant (except for full throttle when it climb about 10 psi) everything else is in flux depending on a laundry list of variables. It is controlled by a fuel pressure regulator on the end of the fuel rail. The pump will run key on then time out, in order to keep it running the air/fuel meter needs to have air flow in order to keep the pump running (there is a switch inside) that's why I said to be sure the pipes/hoses are intact. Not saying the fuel pressure is not correct I can't see it from Maine but it is the first check it is very important once that is established you can move on. There is a fuel pressure tap on the fuel rail it will require the proper instrument to test it. As Derek has stated a shot of carb cleaner/eather will give you an ideal but not an answer.
  12. What is the fuel pressure? Check the intake piping to the air flow meter, cracks, leaks etc.
  13. Batteries will even out but a weak one will affect the better one they will meet at the average point so there is a good chance they both will be below 12.7 if one is on it's way out.
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