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Maineah

Toyota Advanced Member
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About Maineah

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Camping, kayaking. cross country skiing, ham radio/electronics

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    "87" New hHorizon Nova Star
  • Location
    Brownfield, Maine

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  1. Thank for the diagram. The triangle and the bar tell the story the point is the direction the current flows the bar is the current block so this is how two batteries can be joined without discharging one another and both be charged at the same time. There is a great deal of perceived mystery inside of that little box but once you see how it actually works it really is a simple device it's just two high current diodes nothing more because diodes are less than 100% efficient there is loss to heating that's why it has cooling fins.
  2. OK the 1 and 2 posts provided the batteries are connected should have battery voltage you can tell what is what by connecting them one at a time. The A post engine not running should not. Once the engine is running the A post should have voltage. Short explanation, think of the 1 and 2 as a one way valve they only allow current to flow one way they are always power but the one way valve does not let power to flow to the A terminal it can only let power flow from it. Both of the one way valves are connected to the A post. Both are joined to the A post but because the power can only flow from the A post the two batteries can not flow power to one another. So stationary the A post will have no voltage.
  3. OK here is the deal when the isolator was installed the original alt wire to the battery was cut and spliced to join the terminal on the isolator two things, a bad connection at the splice or a toes up isolator. At this point I gather you have a voltmeter to test voltage, test the voltage at the "A" post on the isolator (engine running) then at the 1 and 2 posts. If you get nothing join the A to one of the 1 or 2 posts and see what you get. If it show a charging voltage replace the isolator if not then you need to find out why there is no voltage at the A post, first place to look at is the splice.
  4. Yes inside of the tank fitting. What you need to do is release the pressure valve then pull the drain plug in the tank drain out a gallon or so reset the pressure release and refill the tank water pump or hose fitting.
  5. Nope the newer ones are self exciting. I kind of remember round plugs vers square. I would say probably some were wire for 4 wire when it really was not needed. The alt light on the newer ones supplied the exciter voltage.
  6. Before you go and order parts make sure the compressor actually turns. If the compressor failed there is trash in the entire system read big bucks.
  7. Yep that's junk like I said they really have to be tight.
  8. Two things no air pocket in the heater tank open the pressure valve lever drain off a couple gallons close it off and refill. If that does not help there is a plastic check valve inside of the top tank fitting they sometimes fall apart.
  9. There is a built in check valve in the hot discharge.
  10. That may well be your answer the alternator on those needs to be damn near bow string tight they are over driven to make them charge at lower rpm's
  11. Be a good ideal also to check the drive belt tension
  12. Start it again and see if you get something close to the same reading on the two isolator posts that is the direction the current must flow. If so you have an alt issue.
  13. Sounds like someone has been there before. Have you all ready put it back together? It kind of sounds like you have some US standard bolts mixed in with metric. With the age they probably broke some bolts and repaired them with 1/4 20 bolts.
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