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Maineah

Toyota Advanced Member
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About Maineah

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    Over 200 Posts!
  • Birthday 01/17/1946

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Camping, kayaking. cross country skiing, ham radio/electronics

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    "87" New hHorizon Nova Star
  • Location
    Brownfield, Maine

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  1. lpg non-operational

    The LP tank fittings turn backwards not the valve!
  2. Nope, pretty common procedure. All though there is not a great deal going on in a 30 year old vehicle but there is residual voltages in capacitors clock and radio memories (we are talking milli amps here) but touching the cables together you are assured that there is nothing left to keep alive a hard set code. It's pretty obvious if the problem is not repaired the code will come right back but hard codes are not necessarily cleared by pulling a fuse or disconnecting cables granted it's more of an issues in a more modern vehicles because of the number of code possibilities and electronics but it can be so even in an old toy home it's the only real way to total clear codes. Removing one cable and turning on the head lights would produce the same results but it might be a good time to clean the cables any way.
  3. lpg non-operational

    If the tank ran out or the appliance hasn't been used in a good while there is probably a lot of air in the lines and it may take awhile to purge it. A sniff test works pretty well live it on for awhile and see if you smell propane then turn it off and wait till it dissipates before trying to light it again.
  4. Unlike a modern ECU it has no way to reset codes via a code reader without external input it relays on the defective part replacement to fix it this does not always work there are two methods remove the fuse or disconnect the battery. There can be residual voltage present this is why it sometimes takes shorting the removed cables together. If the code returns after that then the problem is not corrected.
  5. What do you think? 40k? 140k? 240k?

    I do too when I bought my 87 it had 28,000K on it with a speedo that didn't roll over at a 100K worked out to less mileage a year then I do in a normal month.
  6. Remove both battery cables touch them together for a minute or so reconnect them and see what you get. This will reset everything in the ECM.
  7. My point, there is not earthly reason it should be that high particularly with a brand new battery and no load. I would be surprised to see much over 13.2 under those circumstances.
  8. Progresive Dynamics 45 amp charger Specifications Input: 105-130 VAC, 725 Watts Output: 13.6 VDC, 45 Amps Dimensions: 8.25” x 7.25” x 4.7” Weight: 4.5 lbs. www.lifewire.com/understanding-alternator-output-ratings-534785 No load voltage at idle of 14.6 volts is excessive.
  9. Yes it can if you find a lot of recurring corrosion there is a real good chance the battery is being overcharged by themselves they can not do that 14.6 is a good bit on the high side for no load and it probably goes higher with engine revs. Next question have you had problem starting the MH before you replaced the battery? You can take it off and have it checked or you can do it the easy way on the vehicle and use a voltmeter and that seems like that is what you have done. The voltage regulator is inside of your alternator it can indead cause an over charge situation if you fancy your new battery it needs to be checked out. normal voltage is between 13.2 to 14.2 depending on load any thing above 14.2 is on the high side and it should be checked with revs a good bit above an idle. I have seen 12 volt alternators make 32 volts with max unregulated field voltage.
  10. It would be a real good ideal to check the voltage before you replace the battery it's best to overcharge a battery that's going to be replaced than a brand new one.
  11. Hot to the touch batteries are not a good thing. Check the voltage if it's above 14 volts at idle it's time for a new alt. the regulator is inside cheaper to buy one then to fix it.
  12. Battery upgrade and isolator questions on my '78 Shorty

    It's really not rocket science but wiring can be a big mystery yeah a stereo shop may be a shot. The wire is probably a #8 that was pretty common. So your MH is a 78 yeah that has a puny alternator but to an extent you are smiling because you don't have to tinker the wiring just do the wiring up right, the isolator will just replace the relay. The alt. is however going to have a hard time keeping up. Take a road trip I'm about 4-5 hours away from Boston bring some good IPA 's. and a space heater.
  13. Propane leak at the gauge

    Good job back on the road again!
  14. Battery upgrade and isolator questions on my '78 Shorty

    I was looking at the picture you posted, if it has a relay type isolator then it is a direct replacement. The small relay wire will no longer be used so that will have to be removed or protected because it will be hot with the key on. I'm still confused as to what you a trying to accomplish if the picture you posted is what you have it is not a relay isolator and will require a bit of wiring to make the combiner work. The solid state isolator has 3 or in your case with a "91" MH 4 wires two battery wires one alternator wire and an exciter wire. The truck battery wire will have to be joined to the alternator wire or it won't charge either battery. Here is the deal years ago (and even to this day) the coach wire was only a # 8 or at best a # 6 wire this was fine for low demand use but as WRE said if you want max smoke you need to upgrade the wire. It boils down to how much power do you really need? With the stock wiring and a couple hundred amp batteries the small wire will take a long time to charge your batteries, lots of miles of driving. If you are going to use solar you need to figure out just how much power you are going to use and just how much power the panel can provide on any given day if they don't equal out the batteries will not be charged. A simple fix would be a generator and a good converter/charger if you want a lot of current.
  15. Battery upgrade and isolator questions on my '78 Shorty

    It will work at the coach batteries but it needs to be connected properly otherwise you run the risk of a dead truck battery it can be connected backwards. Another problem you will run into is the .7 volt voltage drop through the solid state isolator the combiner is dependent on voltage entirely. You would be far better off to remove solid state isolator and replace it with the combiner this will require a bit of rewiring because the B+ from the alternator no longer is connected to the battery and it will have to be reconnected to the truck battery B+.
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