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Toyota Advanced Member
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About Maineah

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    Over 200 Posts!
  • Birthday 01/17/1946

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    Camping, kayaking. cross country skiing, ham radio/electronics

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    "87" New hHorizon Nova Star
  • Location
    Brownfield, Maine

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  1. Yes I hear you but that is why they have so much stuff to try and clean them up. Over the years I'm sure some experimenters have tinkered with stuff expecting to "make it better" or "who needs all this junk"? The visual inspection is to basically see how badly hacked it has been because there would be no chance of making it right without a lot of parts and expense. Back when your truck was made I was still very active in the trade and it was hard for us to some times to make these thing run well and still have low emissions. Just a thought but will CA allow you to title it as an antique and by pass the emission testing? It's old enough.
  2. Yeah true Toyota probably said don't put a house on the back!
  3. Bottom line Toyota says no towing take it as you will. The rear frame extension is some of the worst welding I have ever seen then add a camper that is about a 1000# overweight.
  4. Bottom line if it ain't broke don't fix it! Tras heat is produced by converter slip it not actually the moving parts that cause the heat. To reduce the heating use OD spairlingy only on flat ground many people don't use OD at all. From what you are seeing there is zero issues with the trans cooling system if you really want more cooling I would not get involved with any thing complex like extra fans that's just something else going somewhere to break your best beat would be a real axillary cooler stuck in front of the radiator and skip the dinky little Toyota bolt on, Hyden makes all kinds of transmission coolers most are universal fit. You can leave the sensor where it is that is as good a place an any that will give you an ideal just how hard the trans is working you all ready know once it's been through the coolers it's going to be cooler.
  5. Low freon level will cause that too.
  6. Those temps are fine measure it at the cool side and see what you get that is the temperature the transmission uses to do its job. Mind you it is coolant temp that cools the trans fluid that's why the cooler is located at the bottom of the radiator. The trans is bolted to the engine the engine runs at 180* so that is pretty much normal temps you are seeing.
  7. I don't know what you are doing with your readings but batteries alone will draw more than .001 amps from just internal resistance alone even fully charged. As batteries charge the require less amps so don't expect to see full current with a charged battery. Something like this will save you a lot of headaches https://www.amazon.com/RC-Electronics-Inc-Watts-Analyzer/dp/B001B6N2WK/ref=asc_df_B001B6N2WK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309806250188&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7535138448614780195&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002804&hvtargid=pla-571652175348&psc=1 This is what I use on my panels and DC electronic gear.
  8. I have replaced hundreds of them on pretty much any thing made. 60's vintage stuff went through them in about 30 to 60K Like I say I have burned them out cut through them with a torch pressed them in with a bunch of old sockets pounded them in with a hammer but back then you could not buy the entire assembly. Old ball joints were the same way you literally had to pound them out with a hammer and a jack stand get the new ones started as best you could if they were not flush go for a ride on a rough road they would take care of the rest. I had to replace a wheel bearing in my 2011 Tacoma I ordered the bearing got it all off the vehicle ended up having to make a tool to press the hub out of the bearing got it all done then found out I could have bought the entire assembly hub and all for very close for the same price. So bottom line if you can buy the entire assemble don't beat yourself up.
  9. They also are right hand drive where is the seller? It may not be importable or inspectable. Right hand drive and diesel.
  10. Master plumbers badge award.
  11. This is a very common system for all RV's it saves a lot of antifreeze. When the system is in bypass no water flows through the heater but it does flow around it so you will have plenty of water in the taps but it will not be hot. It's not a real good ideal to run the heater dry so see if you have a by pass kit before you try again. The best way to tell would be to open the over temp valve at the top of the water heater with the pump on or hooked up to city water there should be water coming out of the open valve. http://www.rverscorner.com/bypass.html
  12. You probably have a bypass valve on the hot water system it most likely is in the "winter mode" meaning the heater plumbing is bypassed. It should be behind the hot water tank just a little lever type valve. Don't run the heater until you find out because there probably is no water in the tank.
  13. Years ago we set fire to them then cut the outer part off with an air chisel. Crude but effective.
  14. Who built the spring pack? My 87 Nova Star had a 8 leaf pack but it did not have the leaf retaining bars like the newer stuff now has.
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