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Toyota Advanced Member
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About Maineah

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    Over 200 Posts!
  • Birthday 01/17/1946

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  • Interests
    Camping, kayaking. cross country skiing, ham radio/electronics

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    "87" New hHorizon Nova Star
  • Location
    Brownfield, Maine

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  1. I named mine but it still doesn't come when I call it.
  2. The old chargers were designed to light the interior lights, run the furnace, water pump etc. as WME said they were not real good chargers great for high amp loads but that's about it. One of the best and least expensive upgrades to an old camper is a modern charging system no sense wrecking a new $100 battery!
  3. If you insist on switches they do just make ones that connect to the battery post and the battery terminal on the other side. Cheap way out. I maintain 4 batteries in the basement with a standard camper 3 stage over the winter no problem two are over 4 years old and none of they have the same rating. The camper in the garage stays plugged in all winter with 3 group 24's hooked up.
  4. Usually the thicker stuff was for supporting the AC unit. Some had heavier plywood in the rear for a "luggage rack" of sorts.
  5. It was especially hard for us, a few year ago Derek came down to Maine to camp on our land it was a very enjoyable visit we got to swap a lot of good stories and tall tales.
  6. I don't know for sure and that is a pretty rare bird but I sure would research it a lot before I bought one. How about the axles will the full floaters fit the spider gears? So we have a 4X4 already in a top heavy motorhome I wondering how far into the willy waggs one might go with one to need a locking diff?
  7. Up's well that opens a different attack plan. Two possibilities fuse #4 and fuse #5 is a good start because there is no indicator light. Fuse 5 is not applicable if it's not fuel injected. The alt has a fusible wire link going directly to the battery from the alt B+ it should be close to the battery very soft isolation they often had a flag on them with an amp rating. Fuse 4 is the exciter feed to the alt. it is what kick starts the alt. when the key is on the warning light sees the alt as a ground when the alt starts working the voltage climbs to match battery voltage and the light goes out b
  8. Stick with the diode one if you decide to replace it they are much simpler. Their down fall is a slight voltage drop across them but it's no big deal. Dead stationary you should have battery voltage on pins 1 and 2. Now I hate to throw this into the mix but I believe your 84 has a external regulator including a wire for the charge light in this case it's pretty important it is what wakes up the alternator. https://www.google.com/search?q=84+toyota+pickup+alternator+wiring&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS891US891&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=_cSYe2n8QedMpM%2CQO9c5xYUcmh5dM%2C_&vet=1&am
  9. The diode is a one way valve it only allows current to flow one direction so the power flows from the alt to the battery provided all is well but not the other way around. Here is where a test light comes in, a voltmeter has almost zero resistance so it can give you a false reading showing no load voltage. If there is current flow the test light will show it because it presents a load that a meter won't. What you have done shows the alt does indeed work now you have to find why it doesn't get back to the battery my thinking it's in that mess of circuit breakers there seem to be some dangling w
  10. Probably not. You do however have a mess there with all of the circuit breakers (little square boxes) so I can't begin to tell you where they are supposed to go. The light should come on with the key. I'm not real familiar with the Nissan alt but they all work pretty much the same. When the key is on engine not running the light looks at the alt as a ground. When the voltage rises the voltage become positive so the ground is not longer there and the light goes out it's part of the equation so it has to light. What you can try is a jumper from the truck battery + to the alt + (large terminal) t
  11. OK your's only has to pass a two speed idle test that is doable with a bit of twerking again you need to find someone that speaks carburetor and can retweek it after the fact. https://cdphe.colorado.gov/air-emissions/general-emissions-inspection-requirements-and-information
  12. They do Linda but they are Lipo batteries already and it's critical as to how they are wired. I'm guessing unless it's totalled they probably are beyond their expiration date. The only one I know of is Tesla with a single bank read big!
  13. And how much does all of that weight? Wants and needs I guess I can go indefinitely with a 100 watt portable panel and two group 24's. Propane tanks hold far more energy than a huge battery bank! One thing to remember your 120 volt load discharges your batteries at a rate of 10 to 1. Better not be cloudy to long!
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