Maineah

Toyota Advanced Member
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About Maineah

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    Over 200 Posts!
  • Birthday 01/17/1946

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Camping, kayaking. cross country skiing, ham radio/electronics

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    "87" New hHorizon Nova Star
  • Location
    Brownfield, Maine

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  1. Oh it's never ending.
  2. Sorry I missed the fan clutch. Hate to say it but a head gasket can cause this also.
  3. Fan clutch? That's warm but not over heated. The engine has a special thermostat with a by pass valve and must fit in properly but I kind of doubt that's your problem. I would check the fan clutch operation it maybe slipping at speed.
  4. You can add a valve tap to the water pump intake this will allow you to pump antifreeze into the plumbing. You will also have to add a valve to the hot water tank to by pass it or you'll use 6 gallons of the stuff. Or use air pressure to blow the lines out (I use the city water port with a home made fitting and a short hose) you will still have to drain the tank and pump a little antifreeze into the pump but when I do mine I only use about a pint of antifreeze for the entire system. There is no real way other than drain the fresh water tank add water, pump the lines out with the fresh water and repeat that is why I use air to blow the lines out I can taste the antifreeze for weeks other wise, it's non toxic but not real nice stuff.
  5. Well there is a little more to the story before I moved back to Maine I owned two repair shops in MD (it was driving me to drink more!) I started working on Toyota's when they had 8R engines in them we specialized in foreign vehicles (I had worked for British Leyland) so we were quite busy. Frankly I’m glad the only work I do now is on our own vehicles. I still have a “Toyota” motor home because I pull my camper with a Tacoma!
  6. I believe it is a "switching " supply, old tech but better than the old ones but that does not mean it can not have an issue. As Greg said a volt meter is in order. This is not to say you do not have some thing wrong with you USB device but you got to start some where and it does work on battery power so the charger is kind of suspect. .
  7. It maybe over voltage of the USB ports, the USB out put is only 5 volts and reasonably accurate as far as regulation so on the charger voltage it maybe too high for the USB regulator to deal with so it shuts down to avoid over charging the phone etc. Lithium ion battery are very fussy about accurate charging and have a tendency to catch fire if over charged.
  8. There is only one way to fix it re flare and flare plug there is nothing else that is safe.
  9. Possible check valve in the booster. It's a small plastic part attached to a large vacuum line it is hand pressed into the booster they are fairly cheap maybe worth a try. It is a one way valve and it meant to keep vacuum in the booster with the engine off.
  10. Good news: after putting a garden hose valve on the city water hookup (the internal spring valve failed) the water is holding pressure fine. As long as I don't try to turn the hot water knob.. then water EXPLODES out of it with enough force to send it all over the RV, lol. You have a water tank with 6 gallons of air in it! You can go outside and open the relief valve until nothing but water comes out or just open the hot water tap slightly until all the air escapes either way it will take 6 gallons of water. There are two one way valves in your water system one at the hose tap that keeps the water from falling out when the pump is on the other is in the pump to keep the city water from filling your fresh water tank to the point of over flowing.
  11. That's an interesting little rig too bad it's not a 5th wheel that would be so cool.
  12. Vent fans work great as long as the humidity is not real high. Camping is what it is, camping. If you can't stand the heat stay out of the woods! I have gotten up on really hot nights and turned on the showers cold water and gone back to bed.
  13. The spring reacts against the water pressure but the plunger is pretty large as you have seen the spring is pretty strong but not 25+ pound worth it's all by design. (that entire assembly moves) You will have to dead end the pump. It will shut off pretty quickly and most likely will cycle on and off fairly rapidly because it has no air cushion to maintain pressure so don't let it run too long.
  14. What you have is a 3 chamber rotary pump. The pressure builds on the discharge side, lifts the hardware in your picture against spring pressure and switches the pump off. So basically if water is not leaking out of the pump it kind of means all the round rubber parts are all right. So this leaves you with A, the switch is toes up, B, pressure is not building enough to close the switch. B could include a leak in the water system or a stuck valve in the pump chamber not allowing the pressure to build high enough. There are 2 screws holding the the switch assembly to the top of the pump hold the housing down and remove the screws it is under spring pressure this is why you have to hold it down. Once it's apart you can remove the switch and all of the round rubber parts. Remove 1 wire from the switch turn the pump on push the button in on the switch touch the wire to the terminal don't reinstall it because if it doesn't turn off you might get a bath. If it doesn't turn off the switch is bad. It's kind of unlikely the rubber stuff is bad it is really a simple set up. So that would leave you with a plumbing leak or a chamber valve.
  15. Price the parts I think you'll agree with Linda a new pump maybe the answer.