zero

So much for Popular "Science" magazine. They kind of goofed. Coachmen 6.2 liter diesel on an S10 chassis? No. S10 was indeed sold with a little Isuzu 2.2 diesel and was never used in that chassis-mount Coachmen.

Kelly Blue Book is $2800 for private resale in "good condition." $1800 dealer trade-in. The seller originally wanted $3400 and then reluctantly agreed to $2800. That agreement was based on good condition and I could drive it home. If I had known it had issues - I'd gladly paid something like $2300 and put it on my trailer and trailered it home. He just paid $700 to have two front wheel-bearings put in and I'm wondering if the dealer (GM dealer) told him the noise was a more expensive repair. What really ticks me off if there are two Vibe AWDs for sale in that area. Both are 2004s and both are rust free. Both in the same town and the other one has an asking price of $2400 and also "runs perfect." I wanted to pick a day when I could look at both. The other one is not available to view until next week due to the holiday weekend. This guy (with the one making the noise) had me so convinced that it was a "done deal" - I drove out there. My wife and kid and dog were fine with the trip. Beautiful day, we pigged out at Burger King and hiked some old-growth state forest on the way back. Regardless - I still do not like being jerked around. A note on the Pontiac Vibe/Toyota Matrix. We have a "fleet" of summer cars/trucks and then a few we only drive in winter snow as beaters. The winter rigs have to be 4WD or AWD. Right now we are down to two (almost three). My 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan AWD with 340,000 miles and it runs like new but very rusty. No major repairs ever! Also a 2001 Chevy Tracker 4WD that is really a Suzuki. Great running rig but it is rear-wheel drive as default and slides all over the place unless put into 4WD. A local junkyard owner told me to find a Vibe or Matrix AWD. He says they are the best good-gas-mileage AWD on the planet. We want something with a little cargo room AWD or 4WD, and also good gas-mileage. It is very hard to find anything with a small engine and good MPGs. Our Tracker has a 2.5 V6 and only gets around 22 MPG. Our Dodge Caravan has a 3.8 V6 and gets around 20 MPG (best highway mileage). We also have a 2010 Suzuki XL7 that is really a GM with a 3.6 V6 and that piece of crap only gets 18-19 MPG best. So, I have been looking for two years now for a buy on a AWD or 4WD that can get 26-30 MPG and not cost a fortune. The Toyota Matrix fits the bill as far as I can tell. I am REAL surprised that the one I looked at has had so many repairs with wheel bearings, transfercase seals, etc. I expect better from a Toyota. My rusty 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan has held up much better. So has my 2001 Tracker that had around 300,000 miles and NO major repairs ever. I will note that my in-laws have a 2010 Ford AWD Escape with a 2.5 four-cylinder and that gets 29 MPG @ 65 MPH. I find that amazing. TOO expensive though. They are going to trade it in soon and it only has 35K miles on it. I suspect I will not be willing to match what a dealer will offer them with trade-in.

Toyota used the same 5 lug rear axle (as far as load cap goes) from 1975 to the 2000s in the USA and still does in other parts of the world with the Hilux. When used in the 1978 cab & chassis - it is only rated for 2900 max lbs. Same in 1981. Then it climbs up - I suspect since the frame and other parts got higher ratings.

And this 1986 Winnebago Phasar built upon a French commercial van. 60K original miles. Ran perfect and I paid $75 for it. Has no real frame. Just unibody. When I got it home, 20 miles away, it hit a bump and the right rear wheel and suspension almost fell off. What was left of the frame broke in two. Again, stripped it and junked it. Perfect running gas engine and auto trans with lockup and OD and I could not give it away.

That Chinook was a 1977. Now, look at this 1987 dually. NOT much better. I stripped and junked this one too and paid $500 for it.

I would not buy with rust on the truck part unless buying as a parts-rig and just for the RV coach part of it. NOT at that price though. I lived for over 40 years in NY where many roads are salted summer and winter. I know very well how rusty old Japanese metal gets. No way to repair when it gets to a certain point. Only one thing worse and that is old French metal. That was a big problem with the Winnebago Centuri, LeSharo, and Phasars made in the 80s. French sheet metal fell apart -seemingly even if NOT driven on salt. Oddly, here in northern Michigan - the roads are also salted summer and winter yet I find many old RVs with no rust. Here is a typical 70s Toyota that got driven most winters where I lived in NY. I paid $275 for it, stripped it, and junked it.

This was a 2004 with 160K miles and looked like new. Original owner and he had just recently had new wheel bearings put in front. I was not afraid that I could not fix it. The issue is this. I drove a long ways and the seller told me it "ran perfect." I told him before I left home that if it had any known mechanical problems - and it was priced to reflect that - I'd drive down with my Ford truck and car-trailer and trailer this Vibe/Matrix home. But he swore - "no issue and it ran perfect." So I get there and as soon as I see the check-engine-light on, and the awful howl it makes whenever it moves - the seller's credibility was lost to me. He would not drop the price at all and I already offered him full Kelley Blue Book "private sale" value. So, I left. Too bad. It was a nice looking rig with zero rust and that is rare around here for a vehicle that age. No way would I risk driving 130-140 miles home with it.

There was a Bandit for sale for a long time in the Chicago area on CraigsList. Maybe Ebay too (I don't watch Ebay like I do Craigslist). I know the seller said it had bad rust issues, no brakes etc. He also wanted too much money for it. I can''t remember what year it was -but yes - might be the same one. This seller also wants too much for it (in my opinion). I wish I'd had more time to check out that Coachmen. We were on the way to see that Vibe/Matrix and we were running late. The seller had come out, with keys in hand, and wanted me to drive it. He said he knows nothing about diesels but claims it runs like new. It IS amazingly clean under the hood - especially for a 6.2 diesel. This is a first-year 6.2 and there were several major issues with them. Normally - all those issues were fixed within a few years unless the truck got junked. But . ; if by some chance this thing REALLY has only 7000 miles on it - then it might still have all those problems ready to happen? Head-gasket failure was the #1 problem and GM had a kit to fix it. #2 problem was early failure of the fuel injection pump. If I had taken a little more time - I could of looked closely at the engine and found out if it had been updated. Injection-pumps get a metal tag affixed to the top with "EID" on it - to show they have been updated. Those engines are all over the place now and priced next to nothing. That since the US military used them in Humvees and CUCV trucks by the thousands. When I left NY - I had three spare, complete good running 6.2s and wound up giving them away, for free. That a a bunch of 6.2 trucks, K5 Blazers, etc. I did not save any of it and figured I'd never see another 6.2 diesel again. I should take my own advice and NEVER get rid of anything. The seller wants $4000 or "best offer." I might call him and tell him if the price drops to $2500 - I'll buy it. It IS a neat rig. I just wish it had a manual transmission instead of the auto. Since it is a 3/4 ton and not a 1/2 ton - I should have the near indestructible TH400 three-speed automatic, and not the horrible 700R4 used in 1/2 tons and some light-duty 3/4 tons. The 700R4 is a four-speed auto trans with lock-up and it had horrendous problems for it's first 4 years that cannot be upgraded or fixed. 1982 is the first year for the 700R4 trans and for the 6.2 diesel. Only remedy is to find a replacement 700R4 made after 1986 OR replace it with a TH400. Again - I could of known just by looking inside at the shifter but I did not take the time. I now wish I did.

A few days ago someone told me that saw a real odd-looking Toyota motorhome for sale downstate from me. About a 270 mile trip. Then this morning - a little Toyota SUV came up for sale in the same area, on Craigs List. A Pontiac Vibe AWD (actually a Toyota Matrix). I called the seller. He was the original owner and swore it was in perfect running condition. Absolutely NOTHING wrong with it. So, we agreed on a price and I headed down there. I figured this way - I'd finally get my Matrix, and also get to see this "oddball" Toyota RV. Well? I got to the place where the Matrix/Vibe was for sale. I got in with the seller and started to drive it. It made an awful noise - like a bearing was badly burnt out in the front drive somewhere. He told me "it was fine" and he just had all new wheel bearings put into it. I would not trust it for a 5 mile trip - much less to drive it to where I live 135 miles away. I then saw the "check engine light" come on. He (the seller) that also was no problem and it has done that "for ages." I was pretty ticked off for making this trip when the guy told me it was in great mechanical shape. So, I left. I then swung over to where this mystical Toyota RV was supposed to be - and it was NOT there. Oddly - what I DID see - was a really neat 1982 Coachmen camper based on a Chevy 3/4 ton truck and a 6.2 litre diesel engine. The original owner just died and supposedly it has 7000 original miles on it. No way for me to know. 5 digit odometer it might be 107,000 miles or 207,000 miles. I will say the engine looks like new and is original which is rare for a 1982 diesel. First-year 1982 diesels had special problems that were fixed in 1983 and most have been replaced years ago. So who the heck knows? The person selling it for the dead guy wants $4000. I just dumped over a dozen 6.2 diesel trucks when I moved out of New York two years ago and not sure I want any more. But if the guy would sell for $2500 - I'd be very temped. He said he only drove it on one trip to try it out and it got 17 MPG. Not sure if I believe him. My Chevy Suburban with a 6.2 diesel and same TH400 auto trans got a best of 18 MPG. Kind of hard to believe that the same engine and trans in the Coachmen RV body does better. So,we got home tonight at 7 PM after driving mostly all day. I turn on my computer, check my email and guess what? I get a Craigs List alert about a Toyota mini RV that was just listed for sale in the place I just came back from. GEEZ ! It is a 1986 Toyota Bonanza Traveler. I wish I could of looked at it close. Price is too high for me but maybe it will go a lot cheaper? Last one I saw in that condition went for $1800.

Easy answer. They do NOT all look the same. I have four here - made in China and none look "the same." That being said - there are certainly models made in China that get bought and sold under many different brand-names. My ETQ inverter generator looks exactly like a Generac inverter generator. Why? I assume because Generac buys them from the same place. Just like a Pontiac Vibe SUV looks the same as a Toyota Matrix SUV because it IS a Matrix with a new name stuck on it. Here is my ETQ alongside a Generac. They certainly look similar both many specs are different.

Shell Rotella T 15W-40 is not just for diesel engines. It is for HD use in gas and diesels and it likely better for a 80s-90s Toyota RV then what many use with 10W-30. It is not a matter of the viscosity which is kind of meaningless when using a rig in moderate temps. It is a matter of metal-wear protection and additives that were greatly lowered in most automotive-type engine oils in the late 2000s (way after our Toyotas were built). Something like Rotella T 15W-40 is a popular choice of many old auto owners who want metal-wear protection like virtually all motor-oils had 10 years ago and back and now do not. It certainly is not the ONLY choice if someone wants the wear-protection that oil used to provide. Mobil 1 High Mileage is another - in any viscosity. So are many versions of Amsoil. Also - just about any off-road oil made for heavy equipment (gas or diesel), farm tractors - even lawn mowers and garden tractors also has the higher ZDDP levels. The plain fact is - ZDDP was the standard for superior metal-wear protection. It was greatly lowered in most "light duty" auto oils in 2004 to protect emission-system parts. HD oils kept the levels up. At the same time, newer engines were built with newer alloys and/or heat-treating to make metal parts more durable. It makes sense (at least to me and thousands of others) to use older type oil with higher anti-wear packages in older engines. I will note that the biggest problem with new oil in old engines is for engines with flat-tapped camshafts. I suspect all of us here have Toyotas with roller-cams so not such a huge issue.

GVWR is a product of the limitations of also the engine, the transmission, the frame, final-drive-ratio, etc. That being said - the 5 lug semi-floating rear is rated as high as 3700 lbs. in some of the USA Toyota cab & chassis trucks and 4400 lbs. for the full-floating duallies. The 5 lug semi-floater when used overseas is rated as high as 3900 lbs.

I've got four Chinese generators. All made in different places and with different designs. Here is info on three of them that are sitting where I am right now in my barn. Harbor Freight Predator engines and generators made in Jiulongpo District, Chongging, China in a factory established in year 2000. Loncin Indutries Ltd. My King Craft 3200 watt generator that cost $199 new was made in Nantong City, China in a factory built in 1996. Suzhou Tiger Power Machine Co. Ltd. My ETQ 1800i inverter-generator that cost me $269 new made in Jiangsu, China in a factory built in 1959. Jiangsu Engine Co. Ltd.

11 year-old Border-Collie. Her she is "roughing it" on a camping trip with us.

That large diaphram is what opens the secondary venturi on the carb. E.g. it is what makes it go from being a "one barrel to a two barrel." Last time I needed on I got it for $10 at NAPA.

A "smart" person ought to know how to look at a bearing and judge if they need replacement of not. Replacing all cup & cone adjustable bearings with new as standard maintenance is a little crazy.

An OEM 17 gallon tank is approx. 37" X 16" X 13". A 19" tank is 37" X 16" X 14". I suspect you just have a standard 17 gallon tank. As far as when your gauge reads empty - all depends on where the float is set at. The float-arm can be set so the tank reads empty with only 1/2 gallon left, or more-the-usual - when there are 3-4 gallons left. If it reads "empty" when it IS near empty - it likely stays on "full" for a very long time after a fill. If set the more common way - "full" disappears pretty quick, but there is lots of gas left then the gauge reads "empty."

To change from 5 lug to 6 lug - using OEM parts - the spindles do not get changed. Just the hubs. As far as brakes go? OEM dually front brakes are 1/2" wider then what a 1981 has. So I assume if you want the dually front brakes on a 1981, you need different calipers and mounting brackets.

That engine that Kohler used was known for that sort of erratic starting behavior. It is a cheap Tecumseh lawn-mower engine. I have no experience with that engine in the 2.5 generator but DO with it in many other things (like Snapper and Ariens and Deere 6 horse riding mowers). The throttle cable automatically engages the choke when pushed all the way to full. That setup often sticks and you get no choke action. One time it may work fine and another no so good. My guesses would start with that adjustment. A comment on Harbor Freight versus Honda. NOT on the smaller gensets. I just read a test-report from Consumer Reports where they tried out near a dozen different generators. Honda, Yamaha, Generac, and even Harbor Freight (to my surprise). So, the Honda "EU7000" was only rated 5500 watts and cost $4200!! The Harbor Freight Predator is rated a full 7000 watts and cost $600. So, I can buy seven of the HF generators for the price of ONE Honda. Consumer Reports rated the HF unit near as high as the Honda as far as build quality and quality of electricity if makes. Kind of a no-brainer to me IF I needed another bigger generator. I will make a leap and assume that sort of build quality crosses over to the smaller HF Predator genset too.

"Safe" as far as a full-floater rear goes has nothing to do with the bearings. The big plus is NO weight is carried on the drive-axles at all. With a semi-floater - ALL the weight is on the drive axles. Subsequently, with a full-floater - if you break an axle right off - the wheel on that side stays attached. If you break an axle with a semi-floater - the wheel falls off along with a piece of the axle. The little full-floater that Toyota uses came from a Japanese school bus. Just calculating by the mass of the bearings and stubs they mount on, along with the 3 1/8" axle-tubes - it likely has a 5000 lb. rating. That is just the axle assembly and not what it provides when mounted in a little Toyota pickup chassis. There are many other limiting factors.

I wonder if they would be willing to build them? What you are asking for is a progressive spring-pack that in "normal", not "overload" mode - when calibrated for a Toyota already at its max GVWR. If anybody wants such a spring assembly, it's not that difficult to build your own. Just buy a new set of OEM style springs and then some extra, pre-arched leafs to add to the stack. It has to be Toyota (or Mazda) specific. No other truck that I know of uses that odd-ball spring width.

Yes, and what makes their "progressive multi-leaf pack" any different or better then the OEM "progressive multi-leaf pack?" There IS no "progressive" once an RV coach is sitting on the stack. Looks to me it's just a stock spring stack with a custom arch to sit higher (when not in progressive-mode).

What can be said? Groovy, man. Or as Linc from Mod Squad once said - "heavy, man."

Can't say I've tried them. Can't say I ever would either unless they made a progressive-rate spring actually designed for a motorhome that is near max GVWR all the time. Toyota cab & chassis trucks came new with progressive-rate springs but were never designed for full-time max loads so the progressive-part of the design is abrogated. I don't see how that would be any different with the Skyjackers unless they can be ordered custom-built.

The day is never going to come (I hope) when I start replacing tires because they are six-years old as a routine practice. I think consumers ought to complain more instead of acquiescing about short tire lives. I've had many tires last 20 years before showing any cracks and I just had a set (on my boat trailer crack badly after 3 years. It is a crap shoot. Remember when tires used to get recapped and reused? Many a very old tire-casing was reused. What we have today is a mix of tire origins and a mix of rubber compounds. As far as I know, there is no way to predict what tire is going to last how long. I DO know a general assumption is - rubber actually made in China, as well as plastic, is the worst quality in the world. Not all tires made in China though, use Chinese rubber. Some states are in "talks" about proposing 10 year tire-date laws. We will see what happens. That is 10 years though, not 6 or 7. At least none I've heard of. New York has been talking about a 10 year law for years now, but so far it has not happened. Many tire companies say 6 years and that is no surprise to me. I am well aware of the recommendations for companies that sell tires, to get new ones every 6 six years. I don't blame them after fiascos like the Ford-Firestone mud-slinging (on Firestone and Ford and not on consumers). It is also good business for those companies. There has been an effort at the Federal level for 15 years now - to come up with some sort of test that is "accelerated." Like - sticking a new tire in an oven for a few weeks and then predicting how good it will be in 8 years. I've read likely hundreds of boring pages on this subject and so far - there is no 100% accepted accurate test for predicting tire life. That is, except the real world tests of actually using tires for X amount of years. Subsequently, it appears no one really knows what tires are going to last 15 years and what tires will fail in 3 years. I am fine with "taking my chances" and using tires until they show signs of degradation.