zero
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Posts posted by zero
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My 10 year-old granddaughter certainly likes having that ladder. My 33 year old daughter; not so much.
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8 hours ago, TDH4L said:
How fast can a 21FT 22R motor cruise on a flat freeway?
Cruise at what speed? Wind-resistance is the big problem and no 22R or 22RE is going go "cruise" at 75 MPH. Likely not 65 MPH either unless you keep the gas pedal near the floor and don't mind getting 10-11 MPG. It is the reason why we (my family) are considering travelling cross- country in our 78 Chinook with a 20R instead of our 1988 Minicruiser with the 22RE. The Chinook WILL cruise at 65 MPH without a lot of effort because it has a low roof. My 1988 certainly will not do that too well. 55-60 MPH is the "sweet spot" for any high-roof Toyota RV I've driven.
If you want to keep up with normal speeds on 75 MPH freeways - get a camper with a Dodge truck chassis and diesel. My 1992 will do 75 MPH and get 17 MPG.
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I've been on a lot of loose ladders on the back of RVs. Not much there to attach to, I guess. The mid-supports on my Minicruiser ate through the exterior. I re-engineered the mounting system a bit and used some aluminum diamond-plate behind that mid-mount. I also had to beef up the bottom mount. I like having a ladder on back.
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A few photos of parts from the Chinook and Chalet twin-bunk system. Photos are from a 1977 Chinook I scrapped.
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The hanging bunk-beds are pretty complicated, not easy to set up. and heavy. Especially the two cross-beam steel supports. I had two complete sets but could not imagine ever wanting to use them or lug them around. I sold one set to a guy who comes to this forum now and then (Damon Krane). Not sure if he ever used them. I also left a pair behind in NY when I moved, in a junked Chevy Chalet (also made by Chinook).
I've been thinking about using my 78 Chinook for a trip cross-country with two adults, one big 13 year old kid, and an old fat dog. I have been considering just getting a small pop-up camper-trailer to tow behind us.
I cannot imagine taking trips with four kids in a Chinook. I know the Japanese are good at stuffing them selves into little compartments. Some of us others, not-so-good. -
This is what a 1978 Chinook looks like under the hood when all the OEM parts are there.
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If you look at the interior of this 1978 Gazelle - it is exactly how my 1978 MPG Gaucho is laid out.
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8 hours ago, TEC3 said:
Hey guys,
Just purchased a pretty well running 78 Toyota Chinook MPG. From best I can tell from my good friend google it has the Gaucho setup... I am first wanting to get as much info as you may have on these models. 2nd I would really like to know more about the interior. Ours is in fairly good shape, but missing some items.
No house battery/ wiring under hood has been pulled.
fridge is missing. what type should I replace it with?
Neat rig. I also have a 1978 MPG. Came with either an ice-box or a Dometic RM211 three-way refrigerator. I have an extra I'd sell cheap if you want to fix it up. A small 12 volt DC Norcold out of a Winnebago Lesharo will fit in its place. Extra "house" battery goes under the hood. I don't see too many Chinooks with good interiors. I re-engineer a Futon from Walmart to use in my Chinook.
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9 minutes ago, WME said:
The heaters for the 2401 are 160 watts for 120v and 175 watts for 12v
If so, seems the DC heater would be making around 238 watts when cruising down the road. 175 watts @ 12 volts means .82 ohms resistance. Same .82 ohms at a running voltage of 13.5 volts comes to 238 watts unless my Ohms-Law math is wrong.
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2 hours ago, linda s said:
That would mean the 110 is as inefficient as the 12 volt. It's not.
Linda S
A few specs on two Dometic refrigerators I have here. One is the RM211 that came OEM in my 1978 Chinook. It has a dual-element heater, works on 14 volts or 110 volts and puts out 95 watts of heat in either mode.
I also have a RM2604 that has two separate elements. The DC element is rated 388 watts on 14 volts (214 watts on 12 volts). The AC element is rated 252 watts @ 110 volts. 285 watts if grid power is 117 volts.
Not sure about the RM2401 I have. Never looked up the specs.
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1 hour ago, linda s said:
That would mean the 110 is as inefficient as the 12 volt. It's not.
Linda S
You lost me. I made a reference to MY refrigerator; not your's. Some Dometics have same-wattage chimney electric heaters for 12 volts and 110 volts. Some others have unequal wattage electric heaters for 12 volts and 110 volts. Some Dometics have just one heater that has both coils and some Dometics have two separate coils. If you feel your refrigerator heats better with 110 VAC then with 12 volts DC - then I suppose you have a model with two different wattage heaters. Or perhaps there is something wrong with it. Watts are watts. As far as I can tell, any differences in wattages has nothing to do with efficiency. Just a matter of one making more heat then another. Being electric-resistance heaters - either one will be near 100% efficient in creating heat from electricity. Now - if one is not making as good contact with the chimney as the other - that can change were that heat energy goes (i.e. "efficiency").
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6 minutes ago, linda s said:
I've never noticed any difference in cooling between AC and propane. 12 volt doesn't cool as well. I always precool before a trip by plugging it in. No need to waste the gas. Gets cold just as fast
Linda S
Mine seems to work okay when I plug it in the night before. I am just citing what Dometic says. I know my propane burner in the frig is rated around 650 BTUs. My electric chimney heaters - 12 volt and 110 volt only make 350-400 BTUs.
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I assume you are talking about the 1990 Lite Ace. Interesting looking rig. Lot of money though. I assume you've already made sure there is no problem getting parts in the USA? I have no idea one way of the other. I do know how miserable it can be to own a foreign vehicle that has poor parts support. Like the French Winnebago Lesharos that were sold here for a few years.
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I cannot think of any reason why you cannot do it while driving. Just not very efficient, but who cares along at it works? Most of these 4 cubic foot Dometics draw 8-10 amps constantly and never shut off. At least according to Dometic. I just read this recently from Dometic. They state the electric mode - regardless if AC or DC is for keeping things cools once things are already cold from using propane. Dometic says the electric-heaters are not good enough to use full-time for cooling.
Now - if you were driving a lot at night - with the headlights on, maybe AC on, and with a small alternator - you might start seeing the charge light come on when the engine was at idle speed. I had that problem with my 1973 Champion motorhome.
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7 minutes ago, linda s said:
185r14c the c usually means commercial not the load rating. All you have to do is check the max pressure. max for D load range should be 65lbs. Other than that the shops are not correct. There are some C load range tires in that size and they are more than heavy duty enough for your tiny Sunrader. A C load range tire would show a max pressure of 50.
Air shocks or air suspension. Two different things. Some older model Toyota motorhomes did come with air shocks. Since we can't see it you have to post a pic or describe it better
Linda S
I didn't mean to be redundant and post something you already stated. For some reason -when I first "tuned in" here - your post was not visible. Now after I posted - it is.
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41 minutes ago, Dgillies said:
so my understanding is that these 185r14c tires are C rating which means 6-ply... all the shops i have talked to say they can do the 185r14 D rating tires only...
The "C" stand for "commercial." It has nothing to do with the ply-rating. 185R-14C tires come in C-range and D-range. Maybe even E-range in some other parts of the world. I just got some 14.5" tires from China for my trailer that are "G" range and I did not even know they existed.
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If that rig really has a 2C and not a 2C-T, you realize it will be extremely underpowered? Keep in mind that a diesel engine makes substantially less power then a gas engine when the same size and aspiration.
As I recall, the 2C is an indirect-injected engine. That means it is kind of "old tech" and uses glow-plugs to start. There is nothing you can do that will tell you for sure the condition of the engine without actually using it for awhile. I've checked compression on diesels that had 400,000 miles, ran like new, had perfect compression readings, yet ate oil like pigs.
That all said, here are some quick checks. Make sure you get to try to start it cold. I mean under 50 degrees F if possible and make sure no one has warmed it up before you got there.
Verify it starts right up after the glow-plug cycle (likely 8-14 seconds).
When it starts it might skip and smoke a little but it should clear up within a few seconds.
A good test of the integrity of the fuel-injection pump is to drive it for at least half-an-hour. Then turn it off, and then try to restart. If it starts hard when hot - the pump is likely ruined.If you see any evidence that the owner has been using starting fluid on it to start - run away.
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2 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
Can't say I've ever come across 'sidewall width' as an equivalent term for 'section width'. But I haven't finished reading everything yet.
Section width is given on a proposed rim width. Actual sidewall dimensions will change as rim widths change. As I already stated - I've given actual measurements with real tires on real Toyota rims. I seem to be the only one here so far to do so.
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In fact, I'm heading up in a few days for what will likely be our last trip until next summer. It's starting to get cold here (tip of the mitt) and likely colder in the UP. I have a bunch of Toyota parts waiting for me in the Canadian Sault Ste Marie.
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1 hour ago, Totem said:
JDE, did you get the airstation or the one that looks like the drill?
I got the power-station. I have not tried it yet with one of those big Lithium batteries with the "charge meter." I did not have any when I got the charger and just used it with the old Nickel batteries. I do have half a dozen of those new batteries. Next time I am in the UP I will try and see if it makes a difference. I WILL say those new batteries are amazing. I've now got over a dozen of the older nickel batteries that I will never use. Worst thing about them is they are always dead when I need them unless I charge shortly before.
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5 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
Sidewall-width and section-width are the same thing, as far as I know. Those specs are section-width that came from the "written record" and certainly correspond with what I'm finding with my tape-measure.I just found a photo of the new P195/75-14" Douglan tires on my dually Chinook. Tires were less then $50 each from Walmart. No tape measure in the photo but you can see the space.
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I can say for sure that the photo I posted with the 1 1/4" clearance is with P185/75-14"
I just measured the distance between the tires on my 1988 Minicruiser. 185R-14C made by Federal. 42 PSI and 1 3/16" between them.
I have 195 something-or-other on the duals on my Chinook. I don't remember if they are LTs or Ps but I know they fit fine.
I don't know what figures you find that you think are misleading. My chart show me this although I did not rely on it for the stuff I posted.
185R-14C -7.1" sidewall
185/75-14 - 7.2" sidewall
P195/75-14 - 7.7" sidewall
LT195/75-14 - 7.4" sidewall -
2 minutes ago, Totem said:
well my 98 2500 diesel dodge ram ate a PS pump and trashed its PS steering unit too...
First went the PS unit and when it went it was stalling out the truck and was so loose (splines had worn out on it i think) I put a PS stabilizer bracket on it and then next went the pump even though it steered like a dream with no slop after that.. when the pump went, I can tell you, that truck was damn near UN-drivable.
The pump was making horrible groaning noises when i would turn wheel and would shut off sometimes, had full amount of fluid... im not sure exactly what was wrong with it, i just swapped it out with a reman and have been fine since. I will say unequivocally that a 3/4 ton truck like a dodge ram with a diesel motor MUST have power steering or you in deep doo doo. They little toyota? not so much mine drives fine.
My power-steering box sprung a leak on my 1992 Dodge Ram diesel 4WD when it had 180,000 miles on it. So I spent $100 and fixed it. Not exactly a huge investment or "premature" wear.
My 1994 Ford F250 4WD diesel has over 300K miles and the PS system has never been touched. Nor has the PS system on my 1985 Isuzu 4WD diesel mini-truck. The PS system on my 88 Toyota with a 22RE looks original too with 150K but I am not the original owner so cannot be sure.
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I find www.claz pretty good as a seach-engine that scours other places for ads. I saw this one on it today that comes from Craigslist in Texas.
Help! Tires!
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
Posted
I took a photo this morning of the tires on my 1978 Chinook. Full-floater rear with 195/75-14" tires from Walmart. Douglas Xtra-Trac II. 44 PSI rated tire. Note no "P" in front and not "LT" in front either. Who knows? Whatever they are - they have been great tires and less then $50 each. My 1985 diesel 4WD Isuzu truck has had a set on it for 6 year now and been greatly overloaded and driven most of the time off-road. No problems.
Tire sidewalls look pretty close on the bottom.