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zero

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by zero

  1. I rarely ever see these already off and for sale. Not exactly cheap though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Motor-home-Front-Dual-Wheel-Hubs-/381706849809?hash=item58df804e11:g:HnIAAOSwdzVXjZ4Y&vxp=mtr
  2. I came across a kind-of beat-up looking Toyota RV a few hours ago. Sitting in a Walmart parking lot with a flat tire. Middle of sunny day, all windows wide open, but no one seemed to be there. So I got out of my truck to take a few photos and yelled "anybody home" at the same time. Well? There WAS someone inside. Seems a very unfriendly guy from Tennessee. Note this wasn't in some remote area of the parking lot. It was right in front of the main entrance so I did not think the users/owners were seeking any sort of privacy. After getting what sounded like a very unfriendly reply to my "anybody home", I asked the guy if he knew he had a flat tire. Silly me. I thought he may have parked there to sleep and didn't know the tire went flat. He said "yes, I know, I know what I'm doing, and I do NOT need any help." I then asked him if he was planning on having the flat fixed at Walmart and he got even more angry and said "why do YOU want to know." OK, I gave up trying to ask questions or have any conversation. I had asked about Walmart because I know they do NOT have the know-how to fix a flat on a Toyota RV or even replace a tire or a valve. Not at THIS Walmart. My shop is only a mile from this guy (with many good mounted 6 lug tire and wheels) and there is also a good tire store who CAN work on Toyotas just 2 miles away. But I gave up and left. This guy REALLY had a rod up his a**. Felt like being back in New York instead of here in northern Michigan. Note the interesting tire-valve-extensions on the duallies in back. Got passenger-car tires on it, i.e. less the the C-range tires it came with new. spare tire was on the roof. This is only the 2nd New World Toyota RV I've ever seen. Seem to be pretty rare (if I'm right and it IS a New World).
  3. 360 cc Subaru sold in 1969 with an RV trailer. Not sure if it was sold as a "Subaro" or that is just a misprint.
  4. Warning !! To any "sensitive" people who want strict controls on discussion here - please take note. This post regards an electric generator and has absolutely NOTHING that is specific to any motorhome sitting on top of a Toyota truck-chassis. So for you "faint of heart" - please be warned and do NOT read if you find such material offensive, or just plain boring. Totem - you asked about the "Eco-mode" wiring and if it can be hooked up on your Harbor Freight-branded generator. I have no idea if it can be made to work but there are two empty, unused terminals on your circuit board that are there for that purpose. Units with a load-sensitive throttle use a small electric motor/servo to rev up the motor when load demands. I don't know what your specific unit has. Both my ETQ generators have "Eco-mode" but it never worked on my ETQ1800i. I flip that switch either way, the unit works just the same. Since it works well otherwise, I never took it apart to see if maybe a wire-harness is unhooked. In regard to our very "controversial" conversation RE these generators . . I don't see see it like you do. I.e., not an issue of who's "right' and who's "wrong." I never claimed that the HF 2500i is the exact same unit at the Seeyes, Buffalo, or ETQ 2500i. I said they are basically the same and the HF unit appears to be cheapened a little. Here are the two wiring diagams, side by side. Note the the two unused terminals on the HF board (R and BL).
  5. I gave my son in Colorado my 1992 Dodge Cummins diesel truck. 4WD. extended cab, 8 foot bed, etc. Like driving a cross between a freight-train and a Sherman tank. Has pretty beefy springs in back plus air-bag suspension. When I gave it to him. it has a 10 foot Coachmen camper on it and rode quite well. Well - it was the first camper he ever had. He did a lot of rough-terrain off-roading with it going elk hunting in Wyoming. Says the camper shook apart. So he just bought this Alpenite. Makes that truck look Toyota sized now. Also sagging a little.
  6. This Bandit has been for sale, off and on, for a couple of years. I finally contacted the guy who has it for sale now and made an offer. I'm not sure if I touched a nerve with him or not. Kind of hard to tell via email. I know it is very rusted underneath. I did NOT ask about the "20RE" engine. YES TO ANSWER THAT QUESTION, IT IS NOT A NEW VEHICLE. EVERYONE PERCEPTION OF RUST IS DIFFERENT... THE TRUCK FRAME IS SOLID,,,, THE PART THE OLD MAN WAS TALKING ABOUT WAS A PIECE OF FRAME ABOUT THAT WAS EXTENDED FROM THE PRIMARY TRUCK FRAME., NOTHING I AM PERSONALLY CONCERNED WITH... TAKE CARE..... In a message dated 10/9/2016 9:14:26 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 53655816abbd3d47ae44433855667876@reply.craigslist.org writes:
  7. ID this engine?

    I came across a Toyota pickup in a junkyard a few days ago. It was 2WD and five-speed trans and 4 cylinder, so it caught my eye. It was so rusty it literally broke in half when someone tried to pick it up with a loader. I wish now I'd taken some photos. I had a four-cylinder engine I did not recognize so I assumed was too new to use in any Toyota from the 80s. According to Marlin's database, the rear splines are different on these newer 5 speed transmissions. I think - but am not sure - the truck was a 1996. That would mean a either a 2.4 or a 2.7 liter engine. I did some research and it seems it is one heck of an engine and a nice upgrade from a older 2.2 or 2.4. So now I am looking into maybe putting one of there newer, more efficient engines into my older Toyota. I went back today to the junkyard and to my dismay - the owner had already ripped the engine and trans out and crushed the truck. I now have no idea of exactly what it was as far as model and year goes. Transmission got the shift tore right off and also a hole punched through the tailshaft. But two days ago the guy wanted $300 just for the trans. Today I got the trans, bellhousing, clutch, flywheel, etc. for a total of $75. I do NOT know what I have. I seem to now have the parts I need to put a newer engine into my RV and have all the parts to put manual trans in. Not great photos I know. But does anyone know the difference from the outside between a 2.4 or 2.7? Models 2RZ-FE or 3RZ-FE. From what I've read so far, the 2WD trucks tended to have the 2.4 liter (2RZ-FE). I do not recognize the trans yet either but DID discover this. The rear splines are NOT different. Just same as the older ones. Even from a 1978 Chinook. The newer 2.4 seems to be a great upgrade and near a bolt-in swap. I was cursing the flywheel when I was taking it off. 10 bolts holding that little thing on and all the bolts had some sort of Loctite on them. Note the 22RE only has 6 bolts holding on the flywheel. Some specs comparing our older engines to these two newer straight-fours. 20R I4 95 HP @ 4800 RPM, 122 lbs. @ 2400 RPM 1978 22R-E I4 114 HP @ 4800 RPM, 140 lbs. @ 3600 RPM 1985-1997 3VZ-E V6 150 HP @ 4800 RPM, 180 LBS. @ 3400 RPM 1988-95 2RZ-FE I4 142 HP @ 5000 RPM, 160 lbs. @ 4000 RPM 1995-2004 3RZ-FE I4 150 HP @ 5000 RPM, 177 lbs. @ 4000 RPM 1995-2004
  8. Sounds like maybe you will get your wish and it's time for me to retreat from this place. If this forum - according to you - is now a place where facts about Toyota RVs cannot be discussed, challenged, etc. - that this place has gone too far downhill for me. I can understand when the focus is emotions, or politics, etc. But if an engine for sale is new or not cannot be discussed? Yell all you want Linda. I certainly cannot hear you from here in northern Michigan.
  9. Stop what? Geez. I thought posting the availability of new 22RE engines might be of interest to some people here. Not exactly meant to be in any way controversial. In my world, "new" is "new." If someone says otherwise - that too is kind of relevant here and I'd like to see some actual facts.
  10. I messed up

    I did not know anything until recently about these little axles GM uses in S10 trucks and Astrovans. I have a 1998 S10 rust-free I got from Alabama. I am going to cut the frame and lengthen it about 7" so a Chinook body will fit on to it. After researching a little, I found that just about all S10s come with the 7.5" differential and small diameter axles. I don't care about the differential size. It is the axle-size that concerns me. The 7.5" rear only has axles 1.4" in diameter. Note that the so-called Toyota "death axles" are 1.57". Ends up if an S10 has the ZR2 option, the rear axle is 3" wider , has the 8.5" differential, and axles that are 1.6" diameter. I have no idea if such an axle was available for Astrovans. Seems it should of been. So this is the axle I have been hunting for. I DID find one in the junkyard but the guy wants $350 for it. I know where there is another 150 miles away for $100. I was hoping not to make that trip, but now I guess I will. So, all this work just to make an S10 as strong as all the Toyotas have been since 1975.
  11. Again, you said the engine I was referring to was not new - and it IS. It is as simple as that. You can convolute the discussion all you want, but that fact remains the same. I have been unable to verify the quality of these engines. I DO know they are all new, so bore is standard size and not oversize. Crankshaft is also new to all journals are standard sizes and not undersize. No "CNN" hit here. I simply replied to one of your incorrect sentences. Others may be too. But as I already stated several times - I do not yet have specs on things like quality of metals, hardening processes, etc.
  12. Oh come on! Spare me the BS. I said they are new - and they are. You said they are "not new" and you were wrong. I never said they were made by Toyota. It has been an Asian tradition for a long time to make brand new replacement engines instead of rebuilding. Or - like Datsun used to do - use brand-new casted cylinder-blocks so the cylinder-bores were standard size, but reuse major parts like rods and crankshafts. In this case - all parts are new. Brand new blocks, cranks, rods, pistons, head-castings, camshafts, etc. The following is from you. And it is wrong. That is unless you are reinventing the word "remanufactured." These engines are "manufactured" new. I will also note that I have requesting detailed info on them like nickel content in the block casting, if the crankshafts have hardened journals, harness of the valve seats, etc. So far, I have not gotten those specs. Are YOU claiming you did? If so, please post along the source. THIS is a quote from you . . "the "brand new" 22re for $2000 is not exactly brand new. Its remanufactured and not to factory tolerances. "
  13. I messed up

    Could be. I have never looked close at a 1980. I mean actually manufactured in 1980. Many model-year 1980 RVs have 1979 trucks under them. I know for sure the 20R in 1977, 1978 and 1979 has an electric pump. If it does have a mechanical pump on the engine, in some ways, it makes things even more hard to diagnose. If it is drawing air due to leak on the intake side, you won't see any leaks or gas dripping on the ground. I went to that junkyard yesterday to seek out some Chevy rear-axle parts (like for a Tiger Astro camper). Ended up I found the HD axle I wanted but the price was so high - I did not buy it. But that 1978 Toyota mothorhome? Seems the junkyard owner hates Toyotas and Datsuns and sold me the parts cheap. He says he never buys them. This 1978 was kind of dumped at his place, free of charge. So for $40, I bought the carb, and the entire electronic ignition system with the distributor. Carb is in surpriisingly good shape, despite the cob-webs. Even still pumping gas (gas did not turn to sludge). In my part of the country, old Toyotas in junkyards are very rare. Most were crushed years ago and turned into new Chevys or Fords. Linda - I'd love to see a photo of the rear axle in your Tiger. I am wondering now if Provan special ordered those Astrovans with the heavier ZR2 axles? Easy to tell with a glance. The axle tubes are a larger diameter near the center and then taper back to a smaller size for the HD axle.
  14. I messed up

    No fuel to the carb means either the electric fuel pump in the tank is not working,or the fuel filter is plugged.
  15. Here is another brand-new one. That is . . unless they are committing fraud and you have some inside info I am not privy to.
  16. If someone already did a compression check - why the heck wasn't some oil squirted into the low cylinder? That is standard procedure and will tell you right away if the low reading is from a leaking valve or piston/cylinder wear.
  17. No Totem, I believe you are wrong. Please do not try to correct me unless you have some evidence to the contrary. You cannot - at not at least until I refer to a specific deal. I know of several places that sell brand new Toyota engines. New blocks,new heads, etc. I cannot say if they are of the same quality as OEM was when these engines were built new. I am talking about a brand new engine, not rebuilt. I DO know what the words mean. I also know the difference from "rebuilt" and "new." I can buy a brand-new 22RE for $1600 and a rebuilt for $1000. I'm talking long-blocks. I assume made in China just like the new complete heads with cams are.
  18. 82 Chinook 4x4 conversion

    I did a couple of 4WD conversions of Datsun and Toyota trucks back in the 70s before the were available OEM. Lot of work. Why reinvent the wheel now that they are factory made? I'd just get a 4WD truck already setup and put your body on it - if that is important to you.
  19. I have paid for only one automobile repair in my life (at least that I can remember). That is when my wife was driving our Toyota Minicruiser and the waterpump went on the interstate. That $20 waterpump wound up costing us $2000. That cost included sending the head to a machine shop for a "check up", new head gasket,new water pump, etc. In a way, I guess I got screwed, and also - I guess such a repair bill is normal. I cannot imagine trusting someone to do the work you mention and not wind up with a HUGE bill. Not unless you have a friend who is a great mechanic and will work for beer. A generic rebuilt longblock is going to be around $1600 just for the parts. If a shop prices the job at 12 hours (just a guess) and charges $75 per hour - that comes to a total of at least $2500 and I doubt you'd ever get out the door that cheap.
  20. Chinook Resto Trim Parts

    There are the light assemblies I bought.
  21. 195R-14C is 26.2" diameter with a max load rating of 2094 lbs. 185R-14C is 25.6" diameter with a max load of 1873 lbs. (speds for Federal Ecovan tires like I have)
  22. Chinook Resto Trim Parts

    Chinook never sold those parts. Not according to their parts book.
  23. Chinook Resto Trim Parts

    Geez. Auto spell or grammar correct is doing some weird things when I type anything. I guess I have to proof-read twice before I send.
  24. Chinook Resto Trim Parts

    The complete rear light assemblies are available brand new. I bought two pairs and seem to be good quality. So Chinese or Taiwan brand that is often on Ebay.
  25. Not always easy to find. I have no idea if the seller will ship. In Colorado.
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