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Toyota Advanced Member
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  1. Sorry that I have not been on for a bit...  I take an aggressive kemo therapy and that puts me down for a bit while the poison does its job...  They say it is working and the cancer is getting smaller so we will see...  That is why I did not respond to the carb you found in the junk yard...  Would you consider selling me that carb???  I would appreciate it...  let me know....  my email is bodasefus@gmail.com...


    Russ Lawrence

  2. zero

    ID this engine?

    I came across a Toyota pickup in a junkyard a few days ago. It was 2WD and five-speed trans and 4 cylinder, so it caught my eye. It was so rusty it literally broke in half when someone tried to pick it up with a loader. I wish now I'd taken some photos. I had a four-cylinder engine I did not recognize so I assumed was too new to use in any Toyota from the 80s. According to Marlin's database, the rear splines are different on these newer 5 speed transmissions. I think - but am not sure - the truck was a 1996. That would mean a either a 2.4 or a 2.7 liter engine. I did some research and it seems it is one heck of an engine and a nice upgrade from a older 2.2 or 2.4. So now I am looking into maybe putting one of there newer, more efficient engines into my older Toyota. I went back today to the junkyard and to my dismay - the owner had already ripped the engine and trans out and crushed the truck. I now have no idea of exactly what it was as far as model and year goes. Transmission got the shift tore right off and also a hole punched through the tailshaft. But two days ago the guy wanted $300 just for the trans. Today I got the trans, bellhousing, clutch, flywheel, etc. for a total of $75. I do NOT know what I have. I seem to now have the parts I need to put a newer engine into my RV and have all the parts to put manual trans in. Not great photos I know. But does anyone know the difference from the outside between a 2.4 or 2.7? Models 2RZ-FE or 3RZ-FE. From what I've read so far, the 2WD trucks tended to have the 2.4 liter (2RZ-FE). I do not recognize the trans yet either but DID discover this. The rear splines are NOT different. Just same as the older ones. Even from a 1978 Chinook. The newer 2.4 seems to be a great upgrade and near a bolt-in swap. I was cursing the flywheel when I was taking it off. 10 bolts holding that little thing on and all the bolts had some sort of Loctite on them. Note the 22RE only has 6 bolts holding on the flywheel. Some specs comparing our older engines to these two newer straight-fours. 20R I4 95 HP @ 4800 RPM, 122 lbs. @ 2400 RPM 1978 22R-E I4 114 HP @ 4800 RPM, 140 lbs. @ 3600 RPM 1985-1997 3VZ-E V6 150 HP @ 4800 RPM, 180 LBS. @ 3400 RPM 1988-95 2RZ-FE I4 142 HP @ 5000 RPM, 160 lbs. @ 4000 RPM 1995-2004 3RZ-FE I4 150 HP @ 5000 RPM, 177 lbs. @ 4000 RPM 1995-2004
  3. zero

    I messed up

    I did not know anything until recently about these little axles GM uses in S10 trucks and Astrovans. I have a 1998 S10 rust-free I got from Alabama. I am going to cut the frame and lengthen it about 7" so a Chinook body will fit on to it. After researching a little, I found that just about all S10s come with the 7.5" differential and small diameter axles. I don't care about the differential size. It is the axle-size that concerns me. The 7.5" rear only has axles 1.4" in diameter. Note that the so-called Toyota "death axles" are 1.57". Ends up if an S10 has the ZR2 option, the rear axle is 3" wider , has the 8.5" differential, and axles that are 1.6" diameter. I have no idea if such an axle was available for Astrovans. Seems it should of been. So this is the axle I have been hunting for. I DID find one in the junkyard but the guy wants $350 for it. I know where there is another 150 miles away for $100. I was hoping not to make that trip, but now I guess I will. So, all this work just to make an S10 as strong as all the Toyotas have been since 1975.
  4. zero

    I messed up

    Could be. I have never looked close at a 1980. I mean actually manufactured in 1980. Many model-year 1980 RVs have 1979 trucks under them. I know for sure the 20R in 1977, 1978 and 1979 has an electric pump. If it does have a mechanical pump on the engine, in some ways, it makes things even more hard to diagnose. If it is drawing air due to leak on the intake side, you won't see any leaks or gas dripping on the ground. I went to that junkyard yesterday to seek out some Chevy rear-axle parts (like for a Tiger Astro camper). Ended up I found the HD axle I wanted but the price was so high - I did not buy it. But that 1978 Toyota mothorhome? Seems the junkyard owner hates Toyotas and Datsuns and sold me the parts cheap. He says he never buys them. This 1978 was kind of dumped at his place, free of charge. So for $40, I bought the carb, and the entire electronic ignition system with the distributor. Carb is in surpriisingly good shape, despite the cob-webs. Even still pumping gas (gas did not turn to sludge). In my part of the country, old Toyotas in junkyards are very rare. Most were crushed years ago and turned into new Chevys or Fords. Linda - I'd love to see a photo of the rear axle in your Tiger. I am wondering now if Provan special ordered those Astrovans with the heavier ZR2 axles? Easy to tell with a glance. The axle tubes are a larger diameter near the center and then taper back to a smaller size for the HD axle.
  5. zero

    I messed up

    No fuel to the carb means either the electric fuel pump in the tank is not working,or the fuel filter is plugged.
  6. zero

    82 Chinook 4x4 conversion

    I did a couple of 4WD conversions of Datsun and Toyota trucks back in the 70s before the were available OEM. Lot of work. Why reinvent the wheel now that they are factory made? I'd just get a 4WD truck already setup and put your body on it - if that is important to you.
  7. zero

    Chinook Resto Trim Parts

    There are the light assemblies I bought.
  8. zero

    Chinook Resto Trim Parts

    Chinook never sold those parts. Not according to their parts book.
  9. zero

    Chinook Resto Trim Parts

    Geez. Auto spell or grammar correct is doing some weird things when I type anything. I guess I have to proof-read twice before I send.
  10. zero

    Chinook Resto Trim Parts

    The complete rear light assemblies are available brand new. I bought two pairs and seem to be good quality. So Chinese or Taiwan brand that is often on Ebay.
  11. zero

    Spare tire rim for sale

    Tire is an RD-603 in size 185R-14C
  12. Not always easy to find. I have no idea if the seller will ship. In Colorado.
  13. zero

    I messed up

    How far did you take it apart? If you went and pulled every part this can be taken out, then there are indeed some small parts you won't get in a kit or even be able to buy new. That's when a junk carb for parts come in handy. On the other hand if you were just doing a routine service on a carb - with a kit - there isn't much to lose that does not come in a decent kit. Last kit I got cost me around $12 and had a new float valve and seat, both accelerator pumps, power valve, accel pump check ball, and I'm sure a few other small parts I'm forgetting. The kits lack other things often needed though like choke-pull-off pods or the vacuum-pod-diaphram that makes the one-barrel turn into a two-barrel when needed. Hey, if your cousin likes you enough to buy a new Weber, and you live somewhere that has no emissions-testing - then I guess you are all set. If anything, I consider a Weber inferior to an OEM Aisan carb - except for the fact most Aisan's are very old and these Webers are new. The Chinese are making brand new Aisan clones but only for the 22Rs. I have not seen any for the 20Rs.
  14. zero

    I messed up

    You've got better cousins then I do. I remember when we (me and fellow mechanics) cursed those two-barrel Webers. Ford used them on Pintos in the late 70s as I recall. On 2.3 liter engines. Heck - maybe the ones Weber sells now are the same ones, or near. I like the Aisan carbs. Very well engineering. Problem is - some parts are getting scarce. We used to tear off the Webers and replace them with two-barrel Holleys, but I'm talking about near 40 years ago.
  15. zero

    1986 Bandit purchase attempt

    My 1988 Minicruiser was bought new in central Michigan and has no rust to speak of. I assume it also has never been used in the winter. Here where I live in northern Michigan, all the dirt roads are salted all summer long and I am seeing some rust just from that. My 1978 came from Louisiana and has rust on top instead of underneath. Especially along the top of the windshield frame. Here is the 1977 I scrapped that WAS driven a few years in central New York winters. Rust was incredible. I will also add that I checked out a 80s Sunrader in a NY junkyard with a full-floating rear and even the rear axle has rust holes clear through it.