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zero

Toyota Advanced Member
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Posts posted by zero


  1. I came across a Toyota pickup in a junkyard a few days ago.  It was 2WD and five-speed trans and 4 cylinder, so it caught my eye. It was so rusty it literally broke in half when someone tried to pick it up with a loader. I wish now I'd taken some photos.  I had a four-cylinder engine I did not recognize so I assumed was too new to use in any Toyota from the 80s.  According to Marlin's database, the rear splines are different on these newer 5 speed transmissions.  I think - but am not sure - the truck was a 1996.   That would mean a either a 2.4 or a 2.7 liter engine.  I did some research and it seems it is one heck of an engine and a nice upgrade from a older 2.2 or 2.4.  So now I am looking into maybe putting one of there newer, more efficient engines into my older Toyota.  I went back today to the junkyard and to my dismay - the owner had already ripped the engine and trans out and crushed the truck.  I now have no idea of exactly what it was as far as model and year goes.  Transmission got the shift tore right off and also a hole punched through the tailshaft.  But two days ago the guy wanted $300 just for the trans.  Today I got the trans, bellhousing, clutch, flywheel, etc. for a total of $75.  I do NOT know what I have.     I seem to now have the parts I need to put a newer engine into my RV and have all the parts to put manual trans in.   Not great photos I know.  But does anyone know the difference from the outside between a 2.4 or 2.7?  Models 2RZ-FE or 3RZ-FE.  From what I've read so far, the 2WD trucks tended to have the 2.4 liter (2RZ-FE).  I do not recognize the trans yet either but DID discover this.  The rear splines are NOT different.  Just same as the older ones.  Even from a 1978 Chinook.   The newer 2.4  seems to be a great upgrade and near a bolt-in swap.  I was cursing the flywheel when I was taking it off.  10 bolts holding that little thing on and all the bolts had some sort of Loctite on them.   Note the 22RE only has 6 bolts holding on the flywheel.

    Some specs comparing our older engines to these two newer straight-fours.

    20R I4   95 HP @ 4800 RPM, 122 lbs. @ 2400 RPM  1978

    22R-E I4   114 HP @ 4800 RPM,  140 lbs. @ 3600 RPM 1985-1997

    3VZ-E  V6  150 HP @ 4800 RPM, 180 LBS. @ 3400 RPM 1988-95

    2RZ-FE I4 142 HP @ 5000 RPM, 160 lbs. @ 4000 RPM  1995-2004

    3RZ-FE I4 150 HP @ 5000 RPM, 177 lbs. @ 4000 RPM  1995-2004

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  2. I did not know anything until recently about these little axles GM uses in S10 trucks and Astrovans.  I have a 1998 S10 rust-free I got from Alabama.   I am going to cut the frame and lengthen it about 7" so a Chinook body will fit on to it.  After researching a little, I found that just about all S10s come with the 7.5" differential and small diameter axles.  I don't care about the differential size. It is the axle-size that concerns me.  The 7.5" rear only has axles 1.4" in diameter.   Note that the so-called Toyota "death axles" are 1.57".  Ends up if an S10 has the ZR2 option, the rear axle is 3" wider , has the 8.5" differential, and axles that are 1.6" diameter.  I have no idea if such an axle was available for Astrovans.  Seems it should of been.   So this is the axle I have been hunting for.  I DID find one in the junkyard but the guy wants $350 for it. I know where there is another 150 miles away for $100.  I was hoping not to make that trip, but now I guess I will.   So, all this work just to make an S10 as strong as all the Toyotas have been since 1975.


     


  3. Could be.  I have never looked close at a 1980. I mean actually manufactured in 1980. Many model-year 1980 RVs have 1979 trucks under them.    I know for sure the 20R in 1977, 1978 and 1979 has an electric pump.  If it does have a mechanical pump on the engine, in some ways, it makes things even more hard to diagnose.  If it is drawing air due to  leak on the intake side, you won't see any leaks or gas dripping on the ground.

    I went to that junkyard yesterday to seek out some Chevy rear-axle parts (like for a Tiger Astro camper).  Ended up I found the HD axle I wanted but the price was so high - I did not buy it.  But that 1978 Toyota mothorhome?  Seems the junkyard owner hates Toyotas and Datsuns and sold me the parts cheap. He says he never buys them.  This 1978 was kind of dumped at his place, free of charge.  So for $40, I bought the carb, and the entire electronic ignition system with the distributor.  Carb is in surpriisingly good shape, despite the cob-webs.  Even still pumping gas (gas did not turn to sludge).  In my part of the country, old Toyotas in junkyards are very rare.  Most were crushed years ago and turned into new Chevys or Fords.

    Linda - I'd love to see a photo of the rear axle in your Tiger.  I am wondering now if Provan special ordered those Astrovans with the heavier ZR2 axles?  Easy to tell with a glance.  The axle tubes are a larger diameter near the center and then taper back to a smaller size for the HD axle.

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  4. I did a couple of 4WD conversions of Datsun and Toyota trucks back in the 70s before the were available OEM. Lot of work.  Why reinvent the wheel now that they are factory made?  I'd just get a 4WD truck already setup and put your body on it - if  that is important to you.


  5. 1 hour ago, swcruiser said:

    I have a 1976 chinook.  Well two actually.  The first was removed from the original pickup and mated to a 1996 land cruiser.  The 2nd has been sitting for awhile but will eventually be mated to a newer drivertrain.  I have been trying to restore the windows and other parts.  Does anyone no the trim part numbers for the window seals, gaskets, etc.?  Do you also know if the rear brake light gasket is available? 

    Chinook never sold those parts.  Not according to their parts book.

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  6. 9 minutes ago, jdemaris said:

    The complete rear light assemblies are available brand new. I bought two pairs and seem to be good quality.  So Chinese or Taiwan brand that is often on Ebay.

    Geez.   Auto spell or grammar correct is doing some weird things when I type anything. I guess I have to proof-read twice before I send.


  7. 1 hour ago, swcruiser said:

    I have a 1976 chinook.  Well two actually.  The first was removed from the original pickup and mated to a 1996 land cruiser.  The 2nd has been sitting for awhile but will eventually be mated to a newer drivertrain.  I have been trying to restore the windows and other parts.  Does anyone no the trim part numbers for the window seals, gaskets, etc.?  Do you also know if the rear brake light gasket is available? 

    The complete rear light assemblies are available brand new. I bought two pairs and seem to be good quality.  So Chinese or Taiwan brand that is often on Ebay.


  8. 1 hour ago, bodasefus said:

    I was in the process of putting a kit in the carb,,,  my cat jumped in my lap to get some scratchies and jumped in the pile of small parts and some small parts went flying...

    I do not know what was lost other than some small springs an other parts I cannot find...  I imagine with a fresh kit,,, someone who knows what they are doing could put it back together and have a good carb...  I do not have that knowledge...

    How far did you take it apart? If you went and pulled every part this can be taken out, then there are indeed some small parts you won't get in a kit or even be able to buy new.  That's when a junk carb for parts come in handy.   On the other hand if you were just doing a routine service on a carb - with a kit - there isn't much to lose that does not come in a decent kit. Last kit I got cost me around $12 and had a new float valve and seat, both accelerator pumps, power valve, accel pump check ball, and I'm sure a few other small parts I'm forgetting.   The kits lack other things often needed though like choke-pull-off pods or the vacuum-pod-diaphram that makes the one-barrel turn into a two-barrel when needed.  Hey, if your cousin likes you enough to buy a new Weber, and you live somewhere that has no emissions-testing - then I guess you are all set.  If anything, I consider a Weber inferior to an OEM Aisan carb - except for the fact most Aisan's are very old and these Webers are new.  The Chinese are making brand new Aisan clones but only for the 22Rs.  I have not seen any for the 20Rs.


  9. 4 hours ago, bodasefus said:

    Thanks for the responses...  I think that I am going to go with the weber carb...  My cousin asked me what I wanted for Christmas and I gave her the link and told her that is the one I wanted...  I will have to wait a bit but I have work to do on the interior...

    You've got better cousins then I do.  I remember when we (me and fellow mechanics) cursed those two-barrel Webers. Ford used them on Pintos in the late 70s as I recall. On 2.3 liter engines. Heck - maybe the ones Weber sells now are the same ones, or near.  I like the Aisan carbs. Very well engineering.  Problem is - some parts are getting scarce.  We used to tear off the Webers and replace them with two-barrel Holleys, but I'm talking about near 40 years ago.


  10. My 1988 Minicruiser was bought new in central Michigan and has no rust to speak of.  I assume it also has never been used in the winter.  Here where I live in northern Michigan, all the dirt roads are salted all summer long and I am seeing some rust just from that.

    My 1978 came from Louisiana and has rust on top instead of underneath. Especially along the top of the windshield frame.

    Here is the 1977 I scrapped that WAS driven a few years in central New York winters.  Rust was incredible. I will also add that I checked out a 80s Sunrader in a NY junkyard with a full-floating rear and even the rear axle has rust holes clear through it.

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  11. I'd like to get it and stick the coach on this S10 I just bought. I didn't mean to insult the seller.  I can understand his frustration dealing with people asking questions. But in my defense - rust on an old Toyota is not the same as when you see "some rust" on most newer cars and trucks.   Toyota steel in the 60s-80s was absolutely terrible and once rust starts underneath - it all goes pretty fast.   The joke used to be that Japanese metal came new with rust already built into it.  I think there is a little bit of truth to that.  French sheet metal was just as bad but not too many French cars in the USA on salty roads?  That is one of the many things that did in the Winnebago Lesharo, Phasar, and Centuri.   The metal came from France and they rusted something awful.

    I will also note that the last two Japanese branded cars I owned both got recalled for rust problems in structural areas.  A Toyota Echo and a Subaru Impreza -both in the mid 2000s.

    Oddly all the German cars I had did not rust near as bad even though my last two VW diesels came from Mexico according to the sticker.

    I wish that guy would find someone to buy the truck part of that Bandit, and I'd buy the coach.  Oh well.  It is his and he is free to do as he pleases. I think the price is too high for the condition.   I am searching for a RV coach with a pop-up roof for my new S10 experiment.  I just missed a Chinook for $800 in Green Bay, Wisconsin.   I just did not want to drive a truck and trailer that far. I am hoping to find something closer.


  12. This Bandit has been for sale, off and on, for a couple of years.  I finally contacted the guy who has it for sale now and made an offer.  I'm not sure if I touched a nerve with him or not.  Kind of hard to tell via email. I know it is very rusted underneath.  I did NOT ask about the "20RE" engine.

    YES TO ANSWER THAT QUESTION, IT IS NOT A NEW VEHICLE.
    EVERYONE PERCEPTION OF RUST IS DIFFERENT... THE TRUCK FRAME IS SOLID,,,, THE PART THE OLD MAN WAS TALKING ABOUT WAS A PIECE OF FRAME  ABOUT THAT WAS EXTENDED FROM THE PRIMARY TRUCK FRAME., NOTHING I AM PERSONALLY CONCERNED WITH... TAKE CARE.....
     
    In a message dated 10/9/2016 9:14:26 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 53655816abbd3d47ae44433855667876@reply.craigslist.org writes:
    Is this the same one that came from the Chicago area and has a lot of rust underneath? I ask because if so, I already looked it over once when it was for sale there.  I live in northern Michigan.  If it IS the same one - I am interested if the price drops substantially. No insult intended, but if it IS the same one - I'd pay $1500 for it. I don't even care about the Toyota part of it. My main interest is just the coach to stick on another truck.

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  13. I think it is a lot to do about nothing.  On some carbs the difference between LD and HD can be just how fast the choke opens (it is adjustable).  When carbs got built new - or rebuilt - there are specs sheets that give precise requirements for things like choke-coil tension setting, inches of vacuum on the choke vacuum pod, fraction of an inch for the choke manual unloader, length of stroke for accelerator pump, etc. Sometimes these are very minor differences that make an auto with a LD carb not as much "fun" to drive when cold as a HD carb.  Also, at least with American autos - LD also the heat-riser for the carb to be blocked off.  Without one of those specs sheets ( I have them for some Fords and GM, not for Aisin) - all you can do is guess. I know there is no major difference between any of them.  I have rebuild spec sheets that come with the repair kits for 20R carbs.  Some adjustments differ depending on carb spec #. Float level, accel-pump stroke, choke coil index mark, etc.


  14. Here is a close up of a 1977 Aisin carb on a 1977 Chinook (Toyota HD cab & chassis) with a 20R I rebuilt recently.  Two choke pull-offs, electric choke with engine coolant assist, electric anti-diesel solenoid, and vacuum pod to open secondary venturi.

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  15. I am just telling you a general fact for cars and trucks in the 70s and 80s.  Fed has HD emissions, LD emissions, and of course there are California emissions.  I have no idea how Toyota dealt with it.  General Motors did not actually say "light duty" or "heavy duty" either.  They went by "C-code" or "J-code."      The point is - all the car and truck makers had more relaxed emission requirements on truck rated over a certain payload capacity.  I also would expect Car-Part.com to be the final word on any of this. I love buying parts there but I find errors in their database almost on a daily basis.

    The main differences are apt to be these.  HD has a slower opening choke to enhance cold driveability. It may have more delivery with the accelerator pump - again for cold driveability.  Some carbs many have extra vacuum ports to run extra emissions devices.  LD carbs are likely to have more aggressive choke-pulloff pods and choke-breaks.  California may be jetted slightly different and-or have a different power-valve.  California engines are often rated for less horsepower.  Again, these are generalities.   Note also that carbs used in automatic transmissions will often have an extra throttle dampening dashpot.


  16. 43 minutes ago, Derek up North said:

    A 'Heavy Duty' carb? There's a difference between the carb for a 1/2 Ton & 3/4 Ton?

    "Heavy Duty" usually implies less emissions features.  Nothing to do with actually being heavy-duty.  Just a matter of HD vehicles emissions regs were more relaxed then on LD.  I have a couple of mid-80s Chevy diesels.  1/2 ton is light-duty and must have an EGR system.   3/4 ton is heavy-duty and gets to skip the EGR system.  Gas engines often were the same way.  


  17. On 10/6/2016 at 5:39 PM, bodasefus said:

    I messed up while working on the 20R motor...  I need a replacement Asian carb for my 80 Huntsman...  Anybody done the weber conversion and have their old Asian on the shelf

    PM me if you have one...  Thanks

    I have two extras but would kind of like to keep unless you cannot find elsewhere.  There is a junkyard near me that has one on a 1978 20R.  I am going there on thursday is you want to buy it.  I have no idea on price. If interested I can call and ask (I know the owner).  Or call yourself.  I have an extra from a 1977 I'd sell if you really get in a pinch.  Junkyard is Lee's Auto parts.  If you call, just tell him you want the carb off the old Toyota motorhome. He doesn't know what year it is, so don't ask.  I went over and checked it out last week and it is a 1978. Phone is 989-354-2910.  Alpena, Michigan. Here are some photos.

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  18. Thanks Fred and Back East Don.   I thought maybe you found a narrow axle. I see now you went wide since the outside distance between tires worked out the same as when you had duallies.  I'm not sure if doing that has any effect on handling or not (when single tire track is much wider in the rear).  I guess since you have done it, you know.   I have a FF sitting here from a Ford F250 HD.  Center of tire to center of tire is 65 3/4"   The S10 is 54 3/4" .  Toyota FF dually is 62 1/2".     Toyota dually measurement from the outside of the tires is 77 1/2".  Ford F250 is 75".    The S10 is 64 1/2".

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