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I'd like to get it and stick the coach on this S10 I just bought. I didn't mean to insult the seller. I can understand his frustration dealing with people asking questions. But in my defense - rust on an old Toyota is not the same as when you see "some rust" on most newer cars and trucks. Toyota steel in the 60s-80s was absolutely terrible and once rust starts underneath - it all goes pretty fast. The joke used to be that Japanese metal came new with rust already built into it. I think there is a little bit of truth to that. French sheet metal was just as bad but not too many French cars in the USA on salty roads? That is one of the many things that did in the Winnebago Lesharo, Phasar, and Centuri. The metal came from France and they rusted something awful. I will also note that the last two Japanese branded cars I owned both got recalled for rust problems in structural areas. A Toyota Echo and a Subaru Impreza -both in the mid 2000s. Oddly all the German cars I had did not rust near as bad even though my last two VW diesels came from Mexico according to the sticker. I wish that guy would find someone to buy the truck part of that Bandit, and I'd buy the coach. Oh well. It is his and he is free to do as he pleases. I think the price is too high for the condition. I am searching for a RV coach with a pop-up roof for my new S10 experiment. I just missed a Chinook for $800 in Green Bay, Wisconsin. I just did not want to drive a truck and trailer that far. I am hoping to find something closer.

I am a little confused. Note I just came across this post by accident and had no idea such a "conversation" was going on. I might be missing some context. If so, forgive me. Am I seeing things, or do you state in one sentence you "never said anything negative", and then in the next sentence seem to infer that this forum is "tainted by narcissistic members." Seems to be some contradiction there. I will note that "narcissism" is often judged solely by someone's opinion. In this case, your's? Or did some judge and jury somewhere come down with that decision? I will note that I have many times witnessed people defending accurate statements they have made and been then been called "narcissists." I certainly have. You also mention . . " If there are problematic members, they get dealt with. " So I've got to ask. If you have a select few who use power to judge other's behavior and cast them out when those select few deem necessary - that too could easily be judged as narcissism. In my opinion, I know for sure (at least in my own mind) that there is a narcissistic "judge and jury" at the yahoo Toyota group with Mr. Turtle presides. I still have a copy of the email he sent me basically asking me to show why I am worthy to be there. I pretty much told him to "stick it" as I'm sure he remembers. That because I called part of an air-suspension system an "air bag" and was then told I was wrong. I guess at that point I was supposed to acquiesce for the "good of the many?" No thanks. Facts are facts and those with few often get upset with those who know many. One thing I like about this forum is this. Note this may of changed. A few years ago I was contacted by someone who has something to do with running this place and was told that there is an effort to never eject anyone (I guess unless a crime is involved). I like that way of doing things since none of us are perfect. I also know that communication via a keyboard and not face-to-face can lead to many a misunderstanding.

Here is a 1980 Canada-only Emissions version to add to the mix.

This Bandit has been for sale, off and on, for a couple of years. I finally contacted the guy who has it for sale now and made an offer. I'm not sure if I touched a nerve with him or not. Kind of hard to tell via email. I know it is very rusted underneath. I did NOT ask about the "20RE" engine. YES TO ANSWER THAT QUESTION, IT IS NOT A NEW VEHICLE. EVERYONE PERCEPTION OF RUST IS DIFFERENT... THE TRUCK FRAME IS SOLID,,,, THE PART THE OLD MAN WAS TALKING ABOUT WAS A PIECE OF FRAME ABOUT THAT WAS EXTENDED FROM THE PRIMARY TRUCK FRAME., NOTHING I AM PERSONALLY CONCERNED WITH... TAKE CARE..... In a message dated 10/9/2016 9:14:26 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 53655816abbd3d47ae44433855667876@reply.craigslist.org writes:

I think it is a lot to do about nothing. On some carbs the difference between LD and HD can be just how fast the choke opens (it is adjustable). When carbs got built new - or rebuilt - there are specs sheets that give precise requirements for things like choke-coil tension setting, inches of vacuum on the choke vacuum pod, fraction of an inch for the choke manual unloader, length of stroke for accelerator pump, etc. Sometimes these are very minor differences that make an auto with a LD carb not as much "fun" to drive when cold as a HD carb. Also, at least with American autos - LD also the heat-riser for the carb to be blocked off. Without one of those specs sheets ( I have them for some Fords and GM, not for Aisin) - all you can do is guess. I know there is no major difference between any of them. I have rebuild spec sheets that come with the repair kits for 20R carbs. Some adjustments differ depending on carb spec #. Float level, accel-pump stroke, choke coil index mark, etc.

Here is a close up of a 1977 Aisin carb on a 1977 Chinook (Toyota HD cab & chassis) with a 20R I rebuilt recently. Two choke pull-offs, electric choke with engine coolant assist, electric anti-diesel solenoid, and vacuum pod to open secondary venturi.

I am just telling you a general fact for cars and trucks in the 70s and 80s. Fed has HD emissions, LD emissions, and of course there are California emissions. I have no idea how Toyota dealt with it. General Motors did not actually say "light duty" or "heavy duty" either. They went by "C-code" or "J-code." The point is - all the car and truck makers had more relaxed emission requirements on truck rated over a certain payload capacity. I also would expect Car-Part.com to be the final word on any of this. I love buying parts there but I find errors in their database almost on a daily basis. The main differences are apt to be these. HD has a slower opening choke to enhance cold driveability. It may have more delivery with the accelerator pump - again for cold driveability. Some carbs many have extra vacuum ports to run extra emissions devices. LD carbs are likely to have more aggressive choke-pulloff pods and choke-breaks. California may be jetted slightly different and-or have a different power-valve. California engines are often rated for less horsepower. Again, these are generalities. Note also that carbs used in automatic transmissions will often have an extra throttle dampening dashpot.

Here is a closer photo of the carb on the 1978 Minicruiser motorhome in Alpena, Michigan. I think I could buy the entire motorhome for $200, but who knows when you ask for just the carb?

"Heavy Duty" usually implies less emissions features. Nothing to do with actually being heavy-duty. Just a matter of HD vehicles emissions regs were more relaxed then on LD. I have a couple of mid-80s Chevy diesels. 1/2 ton is light-duty and must have an EGR system. 3/4 ton is heavy-duty and gets to skip the EGR system. Gas engines often were the same way.

My Firestones on my Chevy always had a slow leak. No big deal and maybe it was just a line. Did it since new and took weeks to get low. On the other hand, the Air-Lifts in my Minicruiser have not yet leaked off at all. 3-4 years old now.

I have two extras but would kind of like to keep unless you cannot find elsewhere. There is a junkyard near me that has one on a 1978 20R. I am going there on thursday is you want to buy it. I have no idea on price. If interested I can call and ask (I know the owner). Or call yourself. I have an extra from a 1977 I'd sell if you really get in a pinch. Junkyard is Lee's Auto parts. If you call, just tell him you want the carb off the old Toyota motorhome. He doesn't know what year it is, so don't ask. I went over and checked it out last week and it is a 1978. Phone is 989-354-2910. Alpena, Michigan. Here are some photos.

The Air-Lift Ultimate is the only one I know of that says can be run at zero pressure or near zero. They don't have the kit for Toyota motorhomes though. Just the Load Lifter 5000 kit with Goodyear bags. That is the kit I have. No plastic fittings. I've never seen the Firestone kit close up - at least not for a Toyota. I had a Firestone kit in my Chevy Blazer motorhome and not plastic fitting in that either.

Hey, maybe better in fresh snow? I know, not a big selling point. But I bet if you drive in fresh snow, the rear tires don't hardly fall into the front tire tracks.

Thanks Fred and Back East Don. I thought maybe you found a narrow axle. I see now you went wide since the outside distance between tires worked out the same as when you had duallies. I'm not sure if doing that has any effect on handling or not (when single tire track is much wider in the rear). I guess since you have done it, you know. I have a FF sitting here from a Ford F250 HD. Center of tire to center of tire is 65 3/4" The S10 is 54 3/4" . Toyota FF dually is 62 1/2". Toyota dually measurement from the outside of the tires is 77 1/2". Ford F250 is 75". The S10 is 64 1/2".

I know you have a detailed post somewhere on this forum but I have not been able to find it. All I am finding is the one I included. A few questions even though you likely answer them in the post I cannot find. Did you have to narrow the axle you used? If not, what did it come out of? Did you make any attempts to make the front wheels match the rear? The reason I am asking is not for a Toyota. I am building another Chinook but on to a 1998 Chevy S10. I've been wanting to try this for a long time. The Chevy has a 2.2 liter engine but with more horse and torque then the original Toyota 2.2. With the higher tech, I want to see how it does with fuel mileage. It also comes with power-steering which I want. I am going to cut the frame and lengthen the truck by 6" so it fits the Chinook. Main hurdle right now (at least in my mind) is finding a better rear-axle for it. The original rear-axle is even less durable then the one Toyota quit using in 1974. So the 5 bolt axle like your Galavan had when new would be an "upgrade" over what this S10 has. So, I am exploring possibilities. There are many Websites and forums that discuss beefing up S10 rear-axles for V8 swaps but the focus is on handling power, not weight. A full-floater would be great, but not necessary. A good semi-floater with stronger axles would also work. The catch is - I'd like to find something narrow enough to fit properly. A BIG plus would be to find something with the OEM wheel-bolt-pattern. Tiger and Aerolite made RV on Chevy Astrovans and I wonder if they did anything to beef up the rears? Just exploring possibilities. I know one person on this forum who has an S10 mini-micro wound up putting a Toyota full-floater in his. Do you still have 8 lug wheels on your rear? I heard some companies sell new axles with the end flanges not drilled - for full-floaters like Dana 60s. This way you can drill for near any wheel-bolt pattern you want. They are also very expensive, and I am cheap.

We used to get cranks welded for big diesel engines. Nobody in my area does it anymore. Bulldozer/crawler and excavator undercarriage parts used to get spray welded and then machined. Again, I don't know anyone in my area that does it anymore. One place I went to that used to do it still has the equipment but won't use it. The shop owner told me that they cannot do it as cheap as new parts are from Asia. He also said that a lot of new undercarriages now have certain alloys that cannot be spray welded.

I might look young, but cannot say I feel that way. I have arthritis something awful. Left knee joint and both shoulder joints completely worn out. Right foot and ankle full of steel. Neck is fused in two places. I have been scheduled for surgery several times and keep chickening out. So I'm not sure, but I might trade looking young for feeling younger.

You lost me. If I hook up a Renogy controller that is called "positive ground" for the load-circuit that goes unused - it has no effect on anything in the RV. Regardless of what they call it, NEG goes to NEG, and POS goes to POS. There IS no POS going to any chassis ground.

I think you got a good deal. I was searching for a place to do some spray-welding for me a few months ago. Often the same shops that did hot spring work also did the spray welding. In my area, all the places are either gone - or doing something else to make money. Kind of like trying to find a TV repair shop.

In my opinion, air-bag suspension kind of degrades the ride, but they work great for supporting heavy loads. I put them in my Dodge diesel 3/4 ton truck because it sagged when I put a heavy camper on the back. The Air-Lift kit I put in worked great when the truck was loaded. When empty? With the 40 lbs. of air in them, the truck was not drivable on a road in the woods I often used. It bounced so bad on the washboards on that road, we just gave up and went back. Note - I could of just let the air out of them, but with many of these air-bags - you are not supposed to. Note there ARE versions with an internal rubber stop that do allow use when at zero pressure. Most kits I've seen require the removal of the original factory spring-stops. So once installed there is nothing to limit spring travel except the bags. I assume that is why they cannot be run empty unless they have built-in internal stops. In the case of a Toyota motorhome at 20-21 feet long? It is always overloaded and I suspect most are over the max safe rating that Toyota ever designed the trucks for. So in that case, air-bags do what the original suspension parts cannot. The trade-off is a stiff ride. No matter how much you beef up the springs, the shackles and pins are still weak-links. The air-springs eliminate that.

I like the Loyale wagon (or Leone). I just junked a dozen of them that were rusted to death. Nice to see a clean one surviving. I had several with the air-suspension and hi-low transfercase, along with the 1.8 engines. Fantastic vehicles in ice and snow. At least those with manual transmissions. The 3 speed automatics with that "sometimes 4WD" not so great. My last one that was roadworthy had the rear suspension break right off about 3 years ago. I figured I'd never find another rust-free one so I scrapped all my parts vehicles. Your's looks great.

I assumed the springs were not retempered because you did not mention it in your original description. 40-50 years ago, spring shops with the equipment to do the job correctly were common. Not anymore. I've come across many that only do a cold re-arch. You are lucky to have a place in your area that can do it correctly. Same goes for the places that used to do build-up welding (spray welding). With China dumping so many cheap parts into the USA. many such shops have stopped doing these kind of services. I was a HD mechanic for 40 years so I guess I am as qualified as most people in theses shops. When someone makes a blanket statement like . . "he was very familiar with Toyota MH's. Stated air bags (new ones) are a waste now with plastic fittings and lower quality. Not durable now" . . . yes, my "BS" detector goes off. Is he claiming that both the Firestone and Goodyear systems are all crap? Did he mention that just about every heavy truck on the road has them? Did he tell you that Goodyear bags carry a lifetime warranty? I have new ones (two years old) and mine have no plastic fittings. So yes, what he told you is BS. I can understand someone claiming they don't like the stiff ride that air-suspension can give. I also can understand someone not considering them a perfect replacement for a worn suspension. But what you say this guy told you? Come on ! One thing good about air-bag suspension is that it eliminates a weak spot in the Toyota suspension. Air-bags push directly against the frame. They are not dependent on spring shackles and bushings taking all the load. Another plus is they are adjustable. If an RV sits a little crooked, from side to side due to an uneven load - it is easy to level out with air-bags. I see it as a personal choice with pros and cons with all these things. Seems making such a choice should be done on accurate info though.

To be accurate - some Toyotas have 4.11 to 1 rears and some have 4.10 to 1 rears and even a rare few came OEM with 4.30 to 1 rears.

One added comment. If you have a 20-21 footer, and an OEM 4.11 to 1 rear, it is likely 5th overdrive won't do you a lot of good unless you change to something like a 4.56 to 1 in back. Or, at least a 4.30 to 1. I had a 1984 Datsun 20 footer with a 2.4 engine and 5 speed trans and OEM 4.30 dually rear. It was just enough to make 5th OD usable but I think 4.56 is better.

I am changing mine right now. I have a 1988 Minicruiser with a 22RE. I bought all the basic parts for $400 from a nearby junkyard in Canada. My auto trans works fine but I hate it. I hate the power loss, I hate the fuel mileage loss, and hate the excess heat it makes. Note - $400 got me a flywheel, clutch, trans and bellhousing, clutch pedal linkage, master and slave clutch cylinders. I then spent another $90 for new trans seals, new rear mount, a brand new clutch disk, slave and master cylinder, pilot bearing, and release-bearing. I am also going to pull the 5 speed trans. apart just to verify all is OK inside. My original plan was to buy a complete truck somewhere for parts. Just so happens that 2WD Toyota trucks where I live are extremely rare. I found many rusted out Toyota trucks cheap but they were all 4WD.