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The house I'm in now was built in 1959 (pretty new for my standards). Had several badly wired circuits with 20 amp breakers and 14 gauge wire that is a fire hazard. Nothing dangerous about a 15 amp circuit as long as that 14 gauge wire is protected by a 15 amp breaker (and not a 20 amp). An old house just has to meet whatever the code was when built, more-or-less. That is . . unless you want to make a rental out of it. When running an AC unit on a 15 amp circuit - it is often the small 14 gauge wire that is the problem and not the 15 amp breaker itself. All depends on the actual distance between your main panel and your AC. Some house circuits are only 30 feet long and others are 80 feet long. The longer that distance, the more apt the breaker will be to blow. Last I heard, the people who write electrical code want to make 15 amp duplex circuits no longer allowed and only permit 15 amps/14 gauge wire for light circuits in a household. Hasn't been written into the code yet, as far as I know. And . . if they get that passed, next they will likely ban 14 gauge wire even for lights. They claim energy is lost even in light circuits and lights are brighter with 12 gauge wiring. But then again - if everyone starts using low-draw LEDs, then all that will be moot.

If you have access to an outlet at a friend's or neighbor's house with a pretty-much standard 20 amp circuit - it will work for a test as well. I'm surprised how many have responded here with 15 amp outlet-circuits in their houses. Not the norm where I come from - at least not for the past 30-40 years. Household wiring (for the most part) where I've lived or worked has 20 amp circuits (for outlets) on downstairs or outdoors outlets with 12 gauge wire and 15 amp or 20 amp duplex receptacles. Those 15 amp duplexes are on 20 amp circuits though with 12 gauge wiring.

If rated for 4 amps and "low energy start" that means it likely needs 12 amps (1400 watts) to start. That is something that something like a Honda EU2000i ought ot handle okay.

A Honda EU2000i or a Yamaha EF2000i are only 1600 watt generators. Now the Hyundai 2000Si is a 2000 watt generator (substantial difference). A small 5000 BTU AC unit that is rated to draw 4.8 amps like the one being discussed will draw 3X to 6X more than that at the first start surge. All depends on what caps are used and type of unit. So that Frigidaire rated at 4.8 amps draws 14 to 29 amps every time it first starts (1600 to 3300 watts).

Honda EU200i is only a 1600 watt generator. Not big enough for most AC units. In fact, not big enough for any I know of.

You might be able to lower the start-surge with a better starting cap - or a "easy start cap kit" for your AC. That being said, a 15 amp circuit is usually not suitable for most AC units. Even a 5000 BTU AC unit can draw over 30 amps when it first starts (unless it has a low-surge cap kit installed). And a "2000 watt" generator? Depends on what it is. Some so-called 2000 watt generators can only surge to 2000 watts while others can handle surges to 4000 watts. What make and model is it?

If the lights get notably dim when cranking - the starter is trying to draw power from the battery and not getting it. If so, it's not a starter problem. That does not coincide with a "small voltage drop" at the battery. Where are you measuring battery voltage - at the terminal posts themselves or at the connectors that go over the posts? You need to test voltage AT the post on the starter when cranking to be sure. If 9 volts or higher and the starter does not spin - then it is a starter problem. If below 9 volts - you've got a "power to the starter" problem.

Here's a few specs. 1977-1978 Toyota Chinook with pop-up roof is 3250 lbs. "dry weight." Same is 3470 lbs. "wet weight." "Wet weight" means all fuel, water, and propane tanks full but no cargo or passengers. Winnebago Micro-Warrior model 319RB is 4860 lbs. "wet weight." 1981 Champion Galavan on a Toyota model 400 is 3,730 lbs. wet. I have road tests that give the wet weights for the 18' and 21' Sunraders but don't have the specs here on this computer. I can post later.

What sort of "15 amp" circuit? 15 amp slow-blow fuse in the panel, 15 amp circit-breaker, or what?

I never heard of him until you mentioned his name. I did a quick Google search and found the "top ten" so-called "outragious" things he has done. I read through them and researched each one for context and pretty much agree with everything he did and/or said. Certainly saw no behavior to indicate he is "metally ill." Looks more like he really speaks what is on his mind and is overt about his intentions. Unlike many if not most politicians that choose every word carefully amd never let their true intent show. From what I've seen and read about him so far - I wish HE was the president. But - like I said - all I "think I know" is what I read in a quick search. "It turns out that many Mainers embraced the key goals of LePage’s governorship: cutting taxes, environmental and labor regulations, welfare services, and public spending—supposedly among the principal obstacles to improving the state’s economy, which has been sluggish for the past 150 years or so. He’s delivered on many of those promises, signing a $150 million tax cut, the largest in state history, which reduced the top income tax rate and doubled the estate tax exemption from $1 million to $2 million. He refused to expand Medicaid, vetoing five legislative bills to do so, imposed a five-year limit on welfare benefits, and vigorously investigated welfare fraud and abuse—allegedly to stop Maine from being a welfare “destination state.” He also repealed laws restricting big box stores and mining." Telling President Obama to "go to hell." "Kiss my butt." In 2011, LePage's decision not to attend Martin Luther King Day ceremonies in Portland and Bangor hosted by NAACP groups became a source of tension. Comparing IRS to Gestapo. In 2012, LePage said, "What I am trying to say is the Holocaust was a horrific crime against humanity and, frankly, I would never want to see that repeated. Maybe the IRS is not quite as bad — yet." "Women may have little beards." LePage in 2011 dismissed concerns about the chemical BPA in plastic bottles, saying: "The only thing that I’ve heard is if you take a plastic bottle and put it in the microwave and you heat it up, it gives off a chemical similar to estrogen. So the worst case is some women may have little beards." 6. A fear of newspapers. LePage said in February that his "greatest fear in the state of Maine" is "newspapers." He added: "If they were fair and balanced, I would be a supporter."

Not all "15 amp" circuits are the same. All depends on how they are wired in a household and exactly what type of circuit breaker is used. A typical household AC unit made for 120 volts needs a 20 amp circuit wired with at least 12 gauge copper wire and a "slow-trip" 20 amp breaker that can handle up to 40 amps surge (for AC high-load start-up). A "15 amp" circuit with duplex receptacles is kind of rare where I live in a modern house (wired within the past 30 years). If you actually have a 15 amp circuit - with 14 gauge wire and a 15 amp breaker - much depends on how far the outlet is from the main service panel and what sort of breaker was used. Normally a 15 amp breaker will not trip (right away) until a 30 amp load is put on it. Some AC units draw 30 amps for a fraction of a second at start-up, and some do not.

Not true - but depends on what make tire and what sort of use. Running 80 PSI in any of my 3/4 ton trucks when not heavily loaded certainly wears them out prematurely. That for my 235/85-16" tires.

A 20 lb. tank improperly filled to 15 lbs. (almost the norm now) is going to run a fridge what - maybe 2 1/2 to 3 weeks and that is if the propane is NOT used for other things. Like cooking, heat, hot water? Certainly not going to run it for a "year." Not unless the camper is mostly parked and not being used. If that is the case, an electric/compressor fridge can go a long time also. Propane certainly has its place, just as electric/compressor refrigerators do. Many new RVs come with 12 volt electrics and do fine.

I agree 100%. I've seen flats on dually rigs catch fire when driven too long. But - many Toyota and Datsun RV owners with full-floating duallies have no spare tire for the back. If the front does not match the back - you need two spares to have things covered. I've heard many Toyota RV owners say (including one moderatlor here) that a spare for the back is not essential since if one goes, you can just keep driving until you find a shop to repair the flat. Personally - I like having one spare to fit the front and the back. If mine did NOT match - I'd have two spares. Tire pressure IS confusing. A tire is designed to ride at a certain profile and that is determined by the weight pushing on it, versus the air inside pushing back. Using the correct air pressure for the perfect profile is often not the same as correct air pressure for "redundancy" and "extra insurance."

Yeah and the alternator on my engine can recharge by batteries quite easily. Have not found a way yet to get my alternator to make propane.

I assume Toyota gives the specs for tire pressure that put the tire in the right profile for best ride and wear. Thus the 29-35 PSI ratings at max load. On the other hand, coach builders probably do not trust RV owners to be meticulous about checking tire pressures on a daily basis (like done on commercial trucks) and also wanted some insurance against overloading beyond max. rating. Thus the higher ratings given by coach builders.

The specs I posted are not for a conventional pickup truck. They are from the Toyota factory manuals for coach builders using HD cab & chassis trucks and the PSI ratings for the tires given by Toyota go by the max GVWR.

I don't know "most" people. I do, however, know several RV owners who took out their 3-ways and installed cheap AC units. Two of those people had working 3-ways and removing them had nothing to do with their budgets. They just wanted something simpler that worked well on uneven ground, did not need propane, and did not require a big vent hole (or two) in the RV wall to let moisture and/or bugs in. I installed one in one of my RVs 10 years ago. Got it for $25 at a yard sale (college dorm refrigerator). Hooked it to a 1500 watt AIMs mod-wave inverter and it has never skipped a beat. Runs on 12 amps @ 12 volts and @ 70 F - runs 10-15 minutes every hour. Never been an issue with battery draw - engine running or not. But - we never park/camp for more then 12 hours at a time. If using a pair of 110-120 AH batteries for "house" batteries - 12 hours is no issue. I've never noticed a shortage of good used 3-ways either. Maybe because I've been in the northeast and midwest? I've got 8 good working 3-ways here - just sitting in my barn. big and small. I left two behind when I moved out of NY two months ago and could not even get $50 each on Craigslist for them. Here in northern Michigan, I see at least one a week fo sale on Craigslist and usually the price is around $75. Back to compressor refrigerators - a good 12 volt fridge - will draw only 2-3 amps when running and uses less power then a standard 120 VAC refrigerator. The latter can be made to work fine, though. Also, the older Norcold 12 volt refrigerators that Winnebago used in many RVs back in the 80s-90s . . . are actually 48 volt AC refrigerators with on-board inverters to allow running on 12 volts DC.

Instead of scratching his head - your mechanic ought to conduct a few simple and logical tests. #1 If the battery is suspect - just turn the headlights on and try to start it. When it "clicks" but does not start - the headlights will go dim if the battery is the problem. If the starter is just not drawing any power - the headlights stay bright. #2 If connections/cables to the starter are suspect - all that is needed to test is a carbon-pile load tester. Any mechanic worth a damn ought to have one. Hook one lead to the starter-housing "chassis ground" and the other to the big positive lead/post on the solenoid. Crank up the carbon-pile to 300 amps and look at the volt reading. If voltage stays at 9.5 volts or more - the cables and connections are fine. The so-called "12 volt" starter is made to operate correctly @ 9 volts. I can see why some small shop owners may not of owned a load-tester back when you had go buy from AC Delco for $250. But now they are only $50 from Harbor Freight and there is no excuse for someone working as a diagnostic mechanic not to have one.

Yes, but we all don't own 1990s. As I said, the ratings vary. E.g., 1988 is lower then 1990, and 1985 is lower then 1988.

Internet TV will likely never work for some people because some of us have bandwidth limits per month.

If you've got 4000 lbs.just on the rear axle - the 21' Toyota RV is loaded beyond max. specs anyway. So yeah, if you have an RV loaded beyond it's rated max capacity - makes sense to over-inflate the tires. Most of the 20-21' Toyota RVs have a max 3750 lb rear rating and some less. That's 1850 lbs. per side (or less). So if someone wants to be sure one tire can safely carry the load when the other is flat - max pressure with an 8 ply-rated tire makes sense. That being said, if you got a flat in the rear with the tires @ 35 PSI or 50 PSI - the remaining inflated tire on the flat side is not going to all-of-of-sudden blow up. Just going to have the wrong profile it is designed to ride at. Now maybe if you keep driving at highway speed for 50 miles - that one inflated tire might give up - or the damn flat one will catch fire and end any further concern for the RV.

Now you've got me interested. I haven't heard a word about it. I don't get much Maine news. Last funny thing I heard specific to Maine was the big "topless lawn-mowing" contraversy when some woman kept mowing her lawn while topless and it got some people upset. Heck - if she was cute - I would not complain. Of course - now adays - having one republican not liked by others is not always an indcator that the guy is bad. Some of the best ones right now - e.g. Rand Paul, Tted Cruz and Rick Perry are hated by the mainstream republicans and I'd vote of any of them in an instant. Scott Walker too if he'd run.

Here are some "facts" from Toyota. If a dually - 35 PSI even when run at max load, front and back. If a single-tire rear - 65 PSI. Toyota shipped the cab & chassis trucks for RV use is 6 ply rated tires with dual wheels. If with single rear wheels - Toyota shipped with 8 ply rated tires. Some RV makers gave higher pressure ratings for redundancy so if one tire went flat in back - the three remaining could still safely carry the load. I run 45 PSI in the rear of mine and I've got 8-ply rated tires. Note that four tires inflated to 35 PSI have a total load capacity of 5400 lbs. just for the rear which is a lot. Note that when front and back are inflated to 35 PSI - the total load rating for those six tires is 8100 lbs. If one tire in the rear goes flat, the three remaining @ 35 PSI still have a load capacity of 4,050 lbs. When we inflate all 6 tires to 50 PSI - the total capacity is 9600 lbs. The four in the rear have a 6400 lbs. capacity. Those are the facts. What you do is your choice. Overinflating makes the tires wear out faster but gives lots of extra load capacity. Attached image is from thte Toyota 1990 cab & chassis manual for coach builders.

Scam, I assume. In our nearby Craigslist. If not a scam - good deal - with, or without the bathtub.