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The LT tires are the ones that can vary a little in actual size (or at least so I'm told). The tires in the photo are P185/75-14" and were on a dually box truck. I knew the former owner and all he ever used were the passenger tires and on a lot of gravel roads. They had a bit too much space between them at 1 1/4". They often got rocks jambed in there.

I swear that there is software constantly changing words that I type in. I cannot believe I am making as many mistakes as I find after I've keyboarded something. That is, unless I am getting senile.

I mean I CANNOT claim for sure.

Measurements I took myself. I can claim for sure all brands are going to be the same though.

Here some specs on distance between sidewalls of duals. Note this is with the OEM Topy wheels on an OEM Toyota/Dyna full-floating rear - as used by Toyota in USA cab & chassis trucks. P185/75-14" tires - 1.25" distance 185R-14C (C for "commercial) - 1.15" distance LT195/75-14" (LT for "light truck") - .85" distance P195/75-14" - .25"

The middle number is 82, but it is left out in that particular type of tire-sizing. So in reality, a 185R-14C is a 185/82-14

What are all this "problems" some of you people have alluded to with power-steering? I have found most systems that use a power-assist box and engine-mounted pump to be very reliable. I've had a lot of vehicles with over 300K miles and the PS system was never touched. For those that don't like power-assist and don't have it, that is what we call "free choice." Same goes for those of us that do like it. Now if we are talking about power-rack systems, I might feel differently. I just has a 1978 Chinook owner contact me who is a little frantic, trying to find a replacement for his manual steering box. Seems they can suffer from normal wear too.

I've got two solar panels on the roof of my roof. Only one way I would do it. I drilled holes all the way through to the inside and fastened the panel-mounts with stainless-steel bolts and lock-nuts. Lock-nuts are kind of a must since you cannot tighten the nuts very much or they crush the ceiling. Lock-nuts keep tension without being real tight. The only exception is if you can hit an actual cross-beam support to screw into. There aren't many and the chances of finding one where you need it are slim. If you have no attached ladder on back, just use a typical household ladder to get up there. I did that many times because my original ladder was loose. I finally fixed it. I've got a brand-new universal RV ladder kit I'd sell cheap. I bought it new and never used it. Just been sitting here for three years in the box.

Here is the new ad. Might of just sold and likely for less then $1000. Pretty good deal for a runner with a full-floating rear.

Price is down to $1000 today. Good buy for someone. I called the guy and offered him $1000 if he could deliver to my house that is four hours north. Or I offered $800 where it is. While we spoke someone showed up to look it over - so maybe it is sold now.

Yes, and that is fine. Or you can buy a cheaper power-supply with no optional charger and just use what you have. That Schumacher is fine for that job. Just plug it in when you have the rig parked. A power-supply is only $30. You won't find a power-center or a converter with a charger new for that kind of price. I don't care either way. You DID ask so I am mentioning possibilities. You already have a good battery maintainer. So it seems all you need is a power-supply. Note that such a power-supply will keep your "house" battery from getting discharged when actually camping and plugged into "shore power." It just won't go up to 14 volts. It will maintain at around 12.5 volts which is fine.

I was afraid of that. All the original decalmania is still intact on my 78. It was just sprayed over with a spray-can. What ever that spray-paint is - it is tough. I can't remove it without damaging the decals. I was thinking of just repainted the whole thing and then hand-painting the raised decals. Not my area of expertise. We'll see.

I have good JPGs of all the graphics and also the actual inch sizes. I was hoping to find a place with computer-generated vinyl graphics to get the stuff made up without a huge expense. I sent out several emails to a few places but never got a reply. I realize that my JPGs will lose quality when enlarged to real-world size. But we are talking about decals with solid-colors so I suppose good software can easily fix that issue.

I am lost in all the electronic trivia. Back to the original problem and post. If all is wanted is the ability for shore-power to create enough DC power to runs some lights and a fan? All is needed is a $30 power supply wired in parallel along with that existing Schumacher battery maintainer. Have both. The power-supply makes DC when camping. The Schumacher gets plugged in when then RV is in storarge to keep the "house" battery charged. Easy to do and no rewiring. If you want to re-do it all, that is fine too. You did at one time, express the desire for simplicity.

Has anyone here tried to get new OEM type decals made for their rig? As I understand it - now that digital printing is common - photos and sizes can be brought to a place with digital printing and new vinyl decals can be custom made. I have never tried it and have no idea how well this works or how expensive it is. I want to bring my 1978 Toyota Chinook back to how it looked originally this winter. Back in the 70s - I'd be doing the work by hand. Actually I am too sloppy. I'd be hiring someone to do it by hand. Now? I'd love to get the original decals made. Or even find some new-old-stock decals made by Chinook? I've searched the part #s many times and never found anything for sale anywhere.

There are two accelerator pumps and both come in the kit. One is a plunger type and the other a diaphram. The plunger type is near always bad and it is what makes a truck bog down every time you hit the gas. Those pull-off diaphrams are hard to find for some carbs. I suggest you get a vacuum source and test your's. They need to work unless you convert your carb to a manual choke.

One solar panel has very low amperage so the wires don't have to be very big. Just mount the controller inside the RV and have it permanently hooked to the "house" battery. Then run the wires from it to the outside with a quick disconnect plug that hooks to the solar panel. A 120 watt panel is only going to make around 6 amps max and usually less. You could run 30 feet of wires with 10 gauge cable and be fine. Only a 2.2% voltage drop at max current. Note - you can buy special premade cables just for purpose cheap on Ebay with the MC4 quick disconnects on them. I posted an Amazon add but . . It seems lately that anything I find on Amazon, I can then find cheaper with free shipping on Ebay.

To each his own. I liked power-steering even when I was young and tough. My first "conversion" was my 1964 Chevelle SS that came with manual steering. I spent $50 converting it to power-steering and it rode much nicer. The power-steering box helps keep road shocks from transmitting back to the wheel. So do add-on steering stabilizers. It is also why you will just about never find a 4WD truck without PS. Off-roading is assumed and thus the PS gives added anti-shock feedback protection.

It has an Aisan two-barrel carb with a vacuum opened secondary. I recently rebuilt a 1977 and a 1978 carb. I got both kits from Rock Auto. Note that the kit does not come with choke-pull diaphrams or the secondary-open diaphram. If they are bad, you buy separately. Carbs usually have two choke pull-off diaphrams and they are usually bad. Makes the engine run rich or flood when first started. The pods vary alot and if you need new ones - you need to ID it by photos to be sure. If you want the carb to work right when done with the automatic choke - you need those pods working. A 1980 Huntsmans could be on a 1979 or a 1980 truck. Check the Toyota date tag.

If you've decided you want a complete power center with the AC and DC distribution in one box, but want something small - you can go for this. I have no idea what your needs are. I know in my case - my Chinook only has a 15 amp converter and it's fine. All I ever use it for is lights and a fan. My Minicruiser has a 30 amp converter and I never use it for anything.

I'm kind of lost in all this. At this point, I have no idea what it is you want to do. If all you want to do is wire in a power supply in place of that Schumacher - you can do so with a cheap 20 amp unit like this.

I bought my Ryobi when on a trip with my truck, pulling a loaded trailer. My 14.5" tires on my trailer take 110 PSI (14 ply G range). My truck takes 80 PSI. I had a slow leak in one of my tires. I found out that no public air-stations that I could find would go over 60 PSI. The Ryobi claimed it could go to 100 PSI so I got it. Nope. Gets to around 70 PSI and then just kind of does nothing but make noise. Not an issue for a Toyota RV that runs much lower pressures.

I have one and am very disappointed with it. I LOVE Ryobi 18 volt stuff and have near everything on planet earth that runs on those batteries. But like I said - not at all impressed with the air-compressor. I tried it on my Ford truck that had a tire a little low at 70 PSI. Needs to be 80 PSI. My Ryobi would not do it. It is supposed to, but did not. Sounds likes works better? If so, I wonder if it is a new and improved model. I got mine last year at Home Depot.

Is that Powermax converter a power-supply, charger, or both? Just curious. I never saw one with that brand name. My Iota DLS-45 is convertible. It can be used as a regulated power-supply with no battery at all if wanted. Runs at a steady 12.5 volts. Or - there is a port in the back. I put a plug in and it turns into a multi-stage battery charger and converter. In this mode, it is always trying to get system voltage up to 14 volts.

My Chinook is the same way. Manual steering is fine going down the road. Getting in close places and making three or four-point turns - no so fun.