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zero

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by zero

  1. I rarely ever see these already off and for sale. Not exactly cheap though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Motor-home-Front-Dual-Wheel-Hubs-/381706849809?hash=item58df804e11:g:HnIAAOSwdzVXjZ4Y&vxp=mtr
  2. I came across a kind-of beat-up looking Toyota RV a few hours ago. Sitting in a Walmart parking lot with a flat tire. Middle of sunny day, all windows wide open, but no one seemed to be there. So I got out of my truck to take a few photos and yelled "anybody home" at the same time. Well? There WAS someone inside. Seems a very unfriendly guy from Tennessee. Note this wasn't in some remote area of the parking lot. It was right in front of the main entrance so I did not think the users/owners were seeking any sort of privacy. After getting what sounded like a very unfriendly reply to my "anybody home", I asked the guy if he knew he had a flat tire. Silly me. I thought he may have parked there to sleep and didn't know the tire went flat. He said "yes, I know, I know what I'm doing, and I do NOT need any help." I then asked him if he was planning on having the flat fixed at Walmart and he got even more angry and said "why do YOU want to know." OK, I gave up trying to ask questions or have any conversation. I had asked about Walmart because I know they do NOT have the know-how to fix a flat on a Toyota RV or even replace a tire or a valve. Not at THIS Walmart. My shop is only a mile from this guy (with many good mounted 6 lug tire and wheels) and there is also a good tire store who CAN work on Toyotas just 2 miles away. But I gave up and left. This guy REALLY had a rod up his a**. Felt like being back in New York instead of here in northern Michigan. Note the interesting tire-valve-extensions on the duallies in back. Got passenger-car tires on it, i.e. less the the C-range tires it came with new. spare tire was on the roof. This is only the 2nd New World Toyota RV I've ever seen. Seem to be pretty rare (if I'm right and it IS a New World).
  3. Warning !! To any "sensitive" people who want strict controls on discussion here - please take note. This post regards an electric generator and has absolutely NOTHING that is specific to any motorhome sitting on top of a Toyota truck-chassis. So for you "faint of heart" - please be warned and do NOT read if you find such material offensive, or just plain boring. Totem - you asked about the "Eco-mode" wiring and if it can be hooked up on your Harbor Freight-branded generator. I have no idea if it can be made to work but there are two empty, unused terminals on your circuit board that are there for that purpose. Units with a load-sensitive throttle use a small electric motor/servo to rev up the motor when load demands. I don't know what your specific unit has. Both my ETQ generators have "Eco-mode" but it never worked on my ETQ1800i. I flip that switch either way, the unit works just the same. Since it works well otherwise, I never took it apart to see if maybe a wire-harness is unhooked. In regard to our very "controversial" conversation RE these generators . . I don't see see it like you do. I.e., not an issue of who's "right' and who's "wrong." I never claimed that the HF 2500i is the exact same unit at the Seeyes, Buffalo, or ETQ 2500i. I said they are basically the same and the HF unit appears to be cheapened a little. Here are the two wiring diagams, side by side. Note the the two unused terminals on the HF board (R and BL).
  4. This Bandit has been for sale, off and on, for a couple of years. I finally contacted the guy who has it for sale now and made an offer. I'm not sure if I touched a nerve with him or not. Kind of hard to tell via email. I know it is very rusted underneath. I did NOT ask about the "20RE" engine. YES TO ANSWER THAT QUESTION, IT IS NOT A NEW VEHICLE. EVERYONE PERCEPTION OF RUST IS DIFFERENT... THE TRUCK FRAME IS SOLID,,,, THE PART THE OLD MAN WAS TALKING ABOUT WAS A PIECE OF FRAME ABOUT THAT WAS EXTENDED FROM THE PRIMARY TRUCK FRAME., NOTHING I AM PERSONALLY CONCERNED WITH... TAKE CARE..... In a message dated 10/9/2016 9:14:26 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 53655816abbd3d47ae44433855667876@reply.craigslist.org writes:
  5. zero

    ID this engine?

    I came across a Toyota pickup in a junkyard a few days ago. It was 2WD and five-speed trans and 4 cylinder, so it caught my eye. It was so rusty it literally broke in half when someone tried to pick it up with a loader. I wish now I'd taken some photos. I had a four-cylinder engine I did not recognize so I assumed was too new to use in any Toyota from the 80s. According to Marlin's database, the rear splines are different on these newer 5 speed transmissions. I think - but am not sure - the truck was a 1996. That would mean a either a 2.4 or a 2.7 liter engine. I did some research and it seems it is one heck of an engine and a nice upgrade from a older 2.2 or 2.4. So now I am looking into maybe putting one of there newer, more efficient engines into my older Toyota. I went back today to the junkyard and to my dismay - the owner had already ripped the engine and trans out and crushed the truck. I now have no idea of exactly what it was as far as model and year goes. Transmission got the shift tore right off and also a hole punched through the tailshaft. But two days ago the guy wanted $300 just for the trans. Today I got the trans, bellhousing, clutch, flywheel, etc. for a total of $75. I do NOT know what I have. I seem to now have the parts I need to put a newer engine into my RV and have all the parts to put manual trans in. Not great photos I know. But does anyone know the difference from the outside between a 2.4 or 2.7? Models 2RZ-FE or 3RZ-FE. From what I've read so far, the 2WD trucks tended to have the 2.4 liter (2RZ-FE). I do not recognize the trans yet either but DID discover this. The rear splines are NOT different. Just same as the older ones. Even from a 1978 Chinook. The newer 2.4 seems to be a great upgrade and near a bolt-in swap. I was cursing the flywheel when I was taking it off. 10 bolts holding that little thing on and all the bolts had some sort of Loctite on them. Note the 22RE only has 6 bolts holding on the flywheel. Some specs comparing our older engines to these two newer straight-fours. 20R I4 95 HP @ 4800 RPM, 122 lbs. @ 2400 RPM 1978 22R-E I4 114 HP @ 4800 RPM, 140 lbs. @ 3600 RPM 1985-1997 3VZ-E V6 150 HP @ 4800 RPM, 180 LBS. @ 3400 RPM 1988-95 2RZ-FE I4 142 HP @ 5000 RPM, 160 lbs. @ 4000 RPM 1995-2004 3RZ-FE I4 150 HP @ 5000 RPM, 177 lbs. @ 4000 RPM 1995-2004
  6. zero

    I messed up

    I did not know anything until recently about these little axles GM uses in S10 trucks and Astrovans. I have a 1998 S10 rust-free I got from Alabama. I am going to cut the frame and lengthen it about 7" so a Chinook body will fit on to it. After researching a little, I found that just about all S10s come with the 7.5" differential and small diameter axles. I don't care about the differential size. It is the axle-size that concerns me. The 7.5" rear only has axles 1.4" in diameter. Note that the so-called Toyota "death axles" are 1.57". Ends up if an S10 has the ZR2 option, the rear axle is 3" wider , has the 8.5" differential, and axles that are 1.6" diameter. I have no idea if such an axle was available for Astrovans. Seems it should of been. So this is the axle I have been hunting for. I DID find one in the junkyard but the guy wants $350 for it. I know where there is another 150 miles away for $100. I was hoping not to make that trip, but now I guess I will. So, all this work just to make an S10 as strong as all the Toyotas have been since 1975.
  7. zero

    I messed up

    Could be. I have never looked close at a 1980. I mean actually manufactured in 1980. Many model-year 1980 RVs have 1979 trucks under them. I know for sure the 20R in 1977, 1978 and 1979 has an electric pump. If it does have a mechanical pump on the engine, in some ways, it makes things even more hard to diagnose. If it is drawing air due to leak on the intake side, you won't see any leaks or gas dripping on the ground. I went to that junkyard yesterday to seek out some Chevy rear-axle parts (like for a Tiger Astro camper). Ended up I found the HD axle I wanted but the price was so high - I did not buy it. But that 1978 Toyota mothorhome? Seems the junkyard owner hates Toyotas and Datsuns and sold me the parts cheap. He says he never buys them. This 1978 was kind of dumped at his place, free of charge. So for $40, I bought the carb, and the entire electronic ignition system with the distributor. Carb is in surpriisingly good shape, despite the cob-webs. Even still pumping gas (gas did not turn to sludge). In my part of the country, old Toyotas in junkyards are very rare. Most were crushed years ago and turned into new Chevys or Fords. Linda - I'd love to see a photo of the rear axle in your Tiger. I am wondering now if Provan special ordered those Astrovans with the heavier ZR2 axles? Easy to tell with a glance. The axle tubes are a larger diameter near the center and then taper back to a smaller size for the HD axle.
  8. zero

    I messed up

    No fuel to the carb means either the electric fuel pump in the tank is not working,or the fuel filter is plugged.
  9. zero

    82 Chinook 4x4 conversion

    I did a couple of 4WD conversions of Datsun and Toyota trucks back in the 70s before the were available OEM. Lot of work. Why reinvent the wheel now that they are factory made? I'd just get a 4WD truck already setup and put your body on it - if that is important to you.
  10. zero

    Chinook Resto Trim Parts

    There are the light assemblies I bought.
  11. zero

    Chinook Resto Trim Parts

    Chinook never sold those parts. Not according to their parts book.
  12. zero

    Chinook Resto Trim Parts

    Geez. Auto spell or grammar correct is doing some weird things when I type anything. I guess I have to proof-read twice before I send.
  13. zero

    Chinook Resto Trim Parts

    The complete rear light assemblies are available brand new. I bought two pairs and seem to be good quality. So Chinese or Taiwan brand that is often on Ebay.
  14. Not always easy to find. I have no idea if the seller will ship. In Colorado.
  15. zero

    Spare tire rim for sale

    Tire is an RD-603 in size 185R-14C
  16. zero

    I messed up

    How far did you take it apart? If you went and pulled every part this can be taken out, then there are indeed some small parts you won't get in a kit or even be able to buy new. That's when a junk carb for parts come in handy. On the other hand if you were just doing a routine service on a carb - with a kit - there isn't much to lose that does not come in a decent kit. Last kit I got cost me around $12 and had a new float valve and seat, both accelerator pumps, power valve, accel pump check ball, and I'm sure a few other small parts I'm forgetting. The kits lack other things often needed though like choke-pull-off pods or the vacuum-pod-diaphram that makes the one-barrel turn into a two-barrel when needed. Hey, if your cousin likes you enough to buy a new Weber, and you live somewhere that has no emissions-testing - then I guess you are all set. If anything, I consider a Weber inferior to an OEM Aisan carb - except for the fact most Aisan's are very old and these Webers are new. The Chinese are making brand new Aisan clones but only for the 22Rs. I have not seen any for the 20Rs.
  17. zero

    I messed up

    You've got better cousins then I do. I remember when we (me and fellow mechanics) cursed those two-barrel Webers. Ford used them on Pintos in the late 70s as I recall. On 2.3 liter engines. Heck - maybe the ones Weber sells now are the same ones, or near. I like the Aisan carbs. Very well engineering. Problem is - some parts are getting scarce. We used to tear off the Webers and replace them with two-barrel Holleys, but I'm talking about near 40 years ago.
  18. zero

    1986 Bandit purchase attempt

    My 1988 Minicruiser was bought new in central Michigan and has no rust to speak of. I assume it also has never been used in the winter. Here where I live in northern Michigan, all the dirt roads are salted all summer long and I am seeing some rust just from that. My 1978 came from Louisiana and has rust on top instead of underneath. Especially along the top of the windshield frame. Here is the 1977 I scrapped that WAS driven a few years in central New York winters. Rust was incredible. I will also add that I checked out a 80s Sunrader in a NY junkyard with a full-floating rear and even the rear axle has rust holes clear through it.
  19. zero

    1986 Bandit purchase attempt

    I'd like to get it and stick the coach on this S10 I just bought. I didn't mean to insult the seller. I can understand his frustration dealing with people asking questions. But in my defense - rust on an old Toyota is not the same as when you see "some rust" on most newer cars and trucks. Toyota steel in the 60s-80s was absolutely terrible and once rust starts underneath - it all goes pretty fast. The joke used to be that Japanese metal came new with rust already built into it. I think there is a little bit of truth to that. French sheet metal was just as bad but not too many French cars in the USA on salty roads? That is one of the many things that did in the Winnebago Lesharo, Phasar, and Centuri. The metal came from France and they rusted something awful. I will also note that the last two Japanese branded cars I owned both got recalled for rust problems in structural areas. A Toyota Echo and a Subaru Impreza -both in the mid 2000s. Oddly all the German cars I had did not rust near as bad even though my last two VW diesels came from Mexico according to the sticker. I wish that guy would find someone to buy the truck part of that Bandit, and I'd buy the coach. Oh well. It is his and he is free to do as he pleases. I think the price is too high for the condition. I am searching for a RV coach with a pop-up roof for my new S10 experiment. I just missed a Chinook for $800 in Green Bay, Wisconsin. I just did not want to drive a truck and trailer that far. I am hoping to find something closer.
  20. zero

    I messed up

    Here is a 1980 Canada-only Emissions version to add to the mix.
  21. zero

    I messed up

    I think it is a lot to do about nothing. On some carbs the difference between LD and HD can be just how fast the choke opens (it is adjustable). When carbs got built new - or rebuilt - there are specs sheets that give precise requirements for things like choke-coil tension setting, inches of vacuum on the choke vacuum pod, fraction of an inch for the choke manual unloader, length of stroke for accelerator pump, etc. Sometimes these are very minor differences that make an auto with a LD carb not as much "fun" to drive when cold as a HD carb. Also, at least with American autos - LD also the heat-riser for the carb to be blocked off. Without one of those specs sheets ( I have them for some Fords and GM, not for Aisin) - all you can do is guess. I know there is no major difference between any of them. I have rebuild spec sheets that come with the repair kits for 20R carbs. Some adjustments differ depending on carb spec #. Float level, accel-pump stroke, choke coil index mark, etc.
  22. zero

    I messed up

    Here is a close up of a 1977 Aisin carb on a 1977 Chinook (Toyota HD cab & chassis) with a 20R I rebuilt recently. Two choke pull-offs, electric choke with engine coolant assist, electric anti-diesel solenoid, and vacuum pod to open secondary venturi.
  23. zero

    I messed up

    I am just telling you a general fact for cars and trucks in the 70s and 80s. Fed has HD emissions, LD emissions, and of course there are California emissions. I have no idea how Toyota dealt with it. General Motors did not actually say "light duty" or "heavy duty" either. They went by "C-code" or "J-code." The point is - all the car and truck makers had more relaxed emission requirements on truck rated over a certain payload capacity. I also would expect Car-Part.com to be the final word on any of this. I love buying parts there but I find errors in their database almost on a daily basis. The main differences are apt to be these. HD has a slower opening choke to enhance cold driveability. It may have more delivery with the accelerator pump - again for cold driveability. Some carbs many have extra vacuum ports to run extra emissions devices. LD carbs are likely to have more aggressive choke-pulloff pods and choke-breaks. California may be jetted slightly different and-or have a different power-valve. California engines are often rated for less horsepower. Again, these are generalities. Note also that carbs used in automatic transmissions will often have an extra throttle dampening dashpot.
  24. zero

    I messed up

    Here is a closer photo of the carb on the 1978 Minicruiser motorhome in Alpena, Michigan. I think I could buy the entire motorhome for $200, but who knows when you ask for just the carb?
  25. zero

    I messed up

    "Heavy Duty" usually implies less emissions features. Nothing to do with actually being heavy-duty. Just a matter of HD vehicles emissions regs were more relaxed then on LD. I have a couple of mid-80s Chevy diesels. 1/2 ton is light-duty and must have an EGR system. 3/4 ton is heavy-duty and gets to skip the EGR system. Gas engines often were the same way.
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