hekdic

Well, now I have the axle out but I can't move the Phillips head bolts. I've use a T handle with a #3 Phillips, heated them and tapped them pretty hard and nothing seems to work. Trying to drill them out and then get replacements seems to be a far out hope.

Thank you sir! I'll try if right away. There is a fair amount of rust on everything, I've been using PB Blaster on everything, Somebody yesterday recommended brake fluid to cut rust. Have you heard of this? I'm way behind schedule on this so far. You mentioned a book. I haven't found anything that covers the Toyota 1 ton for anything. I do have a Toyota truck manual but it's just for the smaller ones.

I can't find anybody that can give me info on how to get the axle center apart to get to the brakes. Any help would be appreciated. I've got it up and the wheels off but cant get the brake drum off the axle. I assume that the small 6 bolt center cap should come off but nothing works for me. The nuts are clear, I've hit it with PB Blaster several time and have a puller on it, but nothing happens.

AC and DC circuits are separate. Charger was plugged into an AC receptacle and wired to the DC panel. I had just cut the old charger out and put the new leads from the new charger directly to the battery since that was the way it was wired. I finally found the problem, which was a miswiring that had happened when the house battery was replaced by a shop. The plus wire from the panel was put on the negative side of the battery, thus no circuit. This plus wire was black so I didn't notice that there was an extra wire on the negative pole. The RV has sat for about 6 months and I hadn't recognized the wiring change. I guess I'm getting too old to spot things easily. Thanks for the thoughts. I still wish I had a circuit diagram but I guess that's just wishful thinking. Would the truck alternator be wired to both batteries with a rig to block current traveling between batteries. I don't think mine is or it's not working because I have to charge my house battery separately. It was set up so that whenever there was AC power to the RV, the battery was charging and the old charger was one of those transformer setups with no smarts. I've put one of those smart marine chargers on it now and it doesn't overcharge.

I've replaced the Coach battery charger that was frying batteries but now have no DC there. Would anybody have any idea how it's wired? The wiring is all protected and I am somewhat resistant to tearing that protection all apart unless I have to.

The fuel injected 22RE which I have has an electric fuel pump. If I'm not mistaken the 22R is mechanical.

There is about 2 inches between the two layers of the floor of my RV. There is about the same amount of distance from the bottom layer of the RV to the tank. If a person measures these distances in their application, they can determine whether and how to cut the floor without touching the tank and the lines. With the tank sealed, the risk would be the same as having a can of spare gas in your garage. With the tank full and access to the fittings and fasteners and the battery disconnected, removing the fuel pump assy would expose you to a situation with a large hole and a possibility of fire but little chance of explosion. With an empty tank full of air and gasoline vapor, any spark would much more dangerous. Without thoroughly cleaning the tank with a surfactant and water, it should be considered an extreme hazard.

Before I got talked into taking t;he tank out, I measured everything that I could to try to figure out what I might run into. There is about a 2 inch gap between the inside floor and the lower base of the RV. What is inside that gap is a mystery. I ran a studfinder all around the area that I was planning to cut and got very anomalous results. No clear open space right around where I would need to cut the opening. No way to determine if any structural members or wiring were there. Conquest was of absolutely no help. Once it goes out their door, tough luck. That's why I got talked into taking the tank out. Friends here said it was just a half hour job. That might be true for the average pickup but because on the RV all the fittings were right in the area of the rear axle and springs, access is a yyyy and of course since it is over 20 years old, hard to get started. I needed a cheater bar on everything. To get to both the sender and pump would take about an 18" square hole which would interfere with the cabinetry and probably structure. Just the pump would take about 10" which might be doable. It might take more because the pump needs to be maneuvered just so to get it out and so does the sender. There is enough room between the tank and the bottom of the RV that the floor can be cut with care. A right angle die grinder with a cutoff wheel would do it easily for whatever that bottom layer is. I think it's just an aluminum sheet. At it's age and with a new fuel pump, I doubt that anybody in the future will need to get in there before it is salvaged. Right now I'm not asking for more work. I'm pretty sure it will outlast me. For those that suggested I just switch wires, it's which direction the wiper on the variable resistor moves and that's a mechanical problem, not an electrical one. The gauge is expecting the opposite resistance. And the wiper is electrically grounded through both a ground wire and the tank structure to the frame and switching wires in the finished installation would just show a dead short and blow a fuse when you turned on the ignition. Dick

Thanks to everybody for their help. I'm not looking forward to putting the tank back in because the access is really bad and the fuel hose to the line to the engine will be the worst. I'm really sorry that I didn't pursue cutting in from above. Fixing the floor above and any wires that I might cut would have been a snap compared to this.

They are reversed. The original goes a little higher in ohms on the one end. I didn't try to repair it at first because it didn't read anything and was so corroded that I figured it was toast. With the handling of it during this time, some of the corrosion fell off and I could see that it was just tabbed together in 3 places. Working those loose showed me the interior and when the resistor was good, I can fix the rest. The path to ground was compromised by corrosion but the acid cleared that out. I'll get a few more years out of it and I can always go back to a notepad and pencil to keep track of fuel burn.

I've just disassembled mine and found that the linear potentiometer is good. A little diluted muratic acid took out the rust and scum that was keeping the ground from being completed and with a little work on the wires I'll be good to go. I had planned to spend the weekend on other things but for 200 bucks, it's probably worth it.

The part is a dealer only part. The dealer here wants $186 for one and he will order it. There is a place that will rebuild yours and they say that it runs about $75 to $150 depending on what they have to do. My sending unit has been out for several years and we just keep a notebook and a pen handy and write down the mileage when we refuel and then stop again when we have gone about 100 to 150 miles. It's about potty time then anyway. Since I had the tank out for the fuel pump, I was going to fix it also. For reference if anybody needs it, here is the rebuild info: http://tristarrradiator.com/index.html

In an earlier post, I had identified that the potentiometer was reversed from what Toyota wanted. That's a mechanical problem not electrical. Just to make sure I went out and tested it with reversed leads and sure enough, it still read backwards. I'm still looking for something that is easily modifiable to work if anybody has found such.

The variable resistor on this sensing unit, which is mechanically connected to the float shows empty when the float is all the way up. Since it's a mechanical relationship, I don't see how changing wires will make any difference. I'm sending it back for credit and am looking for one that is compatible. If I can't locate one for a reasonable price soon, I'll just cap the tank with the old unit and go back to writing down the mileage and refilling every 100 to 150 miles like I have for several years. It's no big deal but I thought I'd just fix it when the pump went. Dick

Thanks for the info on the tank. Is there any chance to find a replacement fuel level sending unit for it for any reasonable price? I ordered what was said to be one that would work with a change to the connector for $35 but when it came the resistor was backwards and when I tested it before doing anything to it, it read full with the float down and empty when the float was up. Dick