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Jeffrey

Toyota Advanced Member
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About Jeffrey

  • Rank
    Super Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Bliss

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1991 Winnebago Warrior
  • Location
    Planet Earth

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362 profile views
  1. Jeffrey

    Kill Switch

    No, Fred, not a pilot, but when I was on a wildfire once (as an engine boss/Rx burn boss) in Colorado, a helicopter went down just a few hundred feet from where our brush truck was parked, about 12000 feet up in a saddle between two mts, and I was the first over to the copter as it laid on its side, smoking, and everyone was crawling out except the pilot, who was still strapped in, and as I "gently" pulled him out, he had just flipped the kill switches for fuel and electrical systems, which apparently is programmed into their minds, so to reduce our chances of getting baked and broiled. I'm assuming you were asking for that reason? Anyway, he lived, had a broken back but still had to get him out and away from the wreckage. Der up Nor...that might work...thanks
  2. Jeffrey

    Kill Switch

    Thank you, Fred. If I don't put in a switch, I'll follow your advice. Do you happen to know where the Fuel pump relay is located on a 1990 3.0 V6 ?
  3. Jeffrey

    Kill Switch

    Also, I have the 3.0 6 cy engine and while looking under the hood just now, there is a fuse box next to the battery and I'm wondering, since I'm not really a mechanic (mechanic), if I were to remove a specific fuse, might that incapacitate the engine (somehow)?
  4. Jeffrey

    Kill Switch

    I noticed recently of a Toyota RV that was stolen in my area ( a sad commentary on how low people will go to take some thing that isn't theirs). I like to take my rig out and set it up as a base camp to hike out into the wilderness from. Which means I leave it sometimes at trail heads and parking lots that could be visited by those with bad intent in their minds. I had a classic Land Rover back a few years, and just below and in front of the seat was a "Kill Switch" that disconnected the battery. It was inconspicuous but easy access. Made a habit of always shutting the power down. Has anyone out there installed such a switch on their Toyota, and if so, how and where? It's hot right now in the Pacific NW and I'm headed to the beach and will be leaving the rig in a parking lot for a few days as I hike and camp up the coast and I'd like to make sure the rig is there when I get back.
  5. Hey mw1 Yes, it is pricey. but hey, I spend 1/3 of my life in that state, i.e. sleep/dream, so, considering that, the body is worth it. Sounds like you've got it figured out, too.
  6. I thought I'd share a recent discovery with Toyota RV folks who take pleasure in getting a good night's sleep. I've got a '91 Winnebago, that I dearly love and is in tip top shape. I tend to sleep a lot in the overhead cab compartment (even when it's parked at home...man cave) and even though the mattress is in fairly good shape, I'm not not 100% comfortable sleeping on or over the top of the removable section of the mattress (Just feel some bumps down there.) and sometimes, in the winter, I can feel cold rising up through from the bottom. A year ago I purchased a section of 1-1/2 - 2" foam (egg crate on one side) that I put over the entire mattress area. It worked fairly well, but still I wasn't content. I'm a backpacker (ultralight) and I have some products by a Swiss company called "Exped". They make a number of different items for campers and the quality of their products is top-of-the-line. I have a Exped "down" sleeping pad that actually has high quality goose feathers in it, and once blown up, it's nice 'n cozy with an R value around 7 or 8. Perfect for keeping the body warm below as the down bag keeps body warm on sides and above. Anyway, Exped makes a Car Camping Mat/Pad called the "Exped MegaMat Duo 10" (with a 9.5 R value). I measured the space that my mattress in the overhead cab area and the MegaMat appeared to fit in that area perfectly. So, I got it on sale, normally around $360, give or take a few bucks, at Backcountry for 25% off. The mattress is foam and also needs air to reach it's ideal loft. No down in this one. So, I got the pad and laid it out over the mattress. Allowed it to fill by itself (will inflate considerably before air needs to be pumped in) and then, using their clever, specially designed small pump that comes with the pad, within a few minutes had the pad set up. I actually slept on the pad in my bedroom on the floor the night before to test it. It was actually better than my bed mattress. Not saying here that you would find it as comfortable as your bed, but for me, it was perfect. The nice thing about it is, you can fill it with air so it feels very firm, then get on top of it and let air out so that it meets your own comfort level. It doesn't feel like an air mattresss...bouncy. It feels like a bed mattress or close to it. So, back to the overhead cab. I pumped up the mattress, in place, over the existing mattress, put a sheet over it and climbed aboard. Now I know we all have our personal sensitivities when it comes to sleeping accommodations, but I can tell you this, my sleep was incredible. So comfortable and sound. The pad fits perfectly over the area...77.9 x 52 x 3.9". I am very, very happy with this set up. I could probably remove the existing mattress and design a board to cover the opening, but for me, there is no reason to. They seem to compliment each other, perfectly. And, in addition, the extra height for me, i.e. somewhat closer to the ceiling, 4 inches, isn't an issue at all. So, there you have it. If your existing mattress is dead and you need an alternative, this might be the way to go. You can find this pad/mat at Campsaver, Moosejaw and Backcountry. They will meet or beat each others prices, at least Backcountry will. And they seem to be having discount sales quite often. So, if you are interested in this product, wait till they have their sale. Sweet Dreams.
  7. Jeffrey

    Securing Propane Tank

    Not cheap but this is a 20 lb horizontal. $150 to $200 new.
  8. Jeffrey

    Is it safe to walk on the roof?

    I would think it's a combination of: 1. Weight of person walking on roof 2. Where that person steps 3. Condition of MH I've spent considerable time on two, both in excellent condition, walking in bare feet, avoiding skylights/antenna/vents, and, at 6' and 165 lbs, found them both to be quite stable. However, I would think, if one is on top of a MH that has had issues in the form of rot walls and or ceiling, I certainly wouldn't take a chance. And, they can rock sideways, so one wants to be careful in that regard. Plus, a little water up there can create a very slippery surface on the smooth exposed metal. These coaches aren't exactly made of steel, either. I wouldn't lean a ladder against one and I'd make sure a step ladder is high enough up so I can avoid putting any weight on the trim running on the edge of the sides. Also, I would suggest staying off the front area where the upper bed is, at least two or three feet from the front edge. Remember to walk slowly and stay focused up there. It's about 9 and a half feet down.
  9. Jeffrey

    Getting the best MPG on Interstate

    Done a lot of racing on road bikes and of course, drafting is essential, can reduce output 30% of output of lead bike, if one want's to be on the podium or at least finish the race with the leaders. AND, in training I've drafted off of 4 wheel vehicles more than once ;-0, however, need I say, this is crazy? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wb7JJlvXTfc then there is this
  10. Jeffrey

    Getting the best MPG on Interstate

    When I read the (above) posts about "drafting" I thought to myself "holy sheet", no way. Now I'm not suggesting to those who draft, not to draft, however, even though my rig is great, top to bottom, the brakes aren't anything like my Tundra's or other vehicles that i've owned. In fact, the brakes seem to be the weak link of this motor home. When I was driving on my trip from Western Washington to Colorado and back early last month, a few times I found myself unintentionally in the tail end of a semi's slipstream and found myself getting sucked in. But I know if some heavy braking were to take place in front of me, I'm not so sure I'd want to "slam" on the brakes, and/or, what the outcome might be. Anyway, I have to second, or I guess "third" Bob c and Straygoose. I'll draft in a bicycle race, but that's it. Besides, to tell you the truth, and I'm not suggesting truck drivers are "bad people" in any way, but I don't like semi's. In fact, I disdain them. They all are generally, but not always, speeding. And speeding can be very dangerous. Not to mention, I don't think they appreciate it when someone "legally" is in their way, i.e. going over the minimum but under the maximum speed. I always give them plenty of room when they come roaring by, and I've noticed some like to "buzz" me, come up close from behind then slide around, as if to say "I'm bigger than you are, BUDDY"! I'm sure there's a lot of great truckers out there but even if my brakes allowed me to stop on a dime, I'd never temp a trucker's "emotional capacity" by drafting off them. Who knows what mind altering substance might be in their bloodstream.
  11. The benefits of having a ToyHome, or as far as that goes, any RV, but especially the Toy for it's "camel" like fuel efficiency and noted dependability, is having it as a "second" home, i.e. one with all the primary amenities needed for living in relative comfort while navigating in and around an adverse and unpredictable landscape. Whether to out run (at a casual pace) an impending storm bearing down on ones region, e.g. "Sandy", or to move into if ones primary home is possibly damaged or leveled, from either a natural or man-made disaster, it's an invaluable asset that one can't afford not to have. I've mentioned (in other posts) that I'm finishing up a solar system on our rig, in addition to an external propane hookup so our setup will give us added flexibility if our RV should be called into some form of permanent, short term duty. We've got plenty of provisions in our primary home to ride out a veritable kaleidoscope of storms, but today I basically duplicated, on a smaller scale, filling our rv with the basic necessities to support myself and my girlfriend and our pets, if the need should arise. I don't consider myself a "survivalist". Those days (back in the 20th century) are long over with. However, being "prepared" for a number of potentially volatile situations, revolving around an economy/society teetering on what I perceive as "the brink", is only natural considering how the insanely ludicrous mindset is of todays demented politicians, from BOTH sides, top to bottom. Add to that the potential of a natural disaster and our Toy Home, as back-up, is looking sweeter, by the minute.
  12. Jeffrey

    RV Cover recommendations

    So, for anyone who is interested, I asked a similar question at another ToyHome site. Here are some responses... Howdy We're looking for a dependable cover for our '91 Toy Warrior. We live in a wet climate, NW Washington State, and are willing to pay for whatever it takes to keep our rig dry and comfortable. Whatever the price might be, it's worth it to us to protect our Toy home. What do you recommend? What do you have? Brand, model and size (LxWxH) would be helpful. Thanks ---------------------------------------------------- http://www.nationaldiscountcovers.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=GLRVC2022 copy and paste into browser i don't have one but others are using this site to pick one. ------------------------------------ I keep mine indoors for the winter. I tried the smallest ADCO Class C cover on my previous Toyhome and it was WAY too big. Not sure if the manufacturer packed the wrong size in the box, but I returned it. ---------------------------------------- This is the one I bought last year: http://www.empirecovers.com/rv_covers.aspx?rvTypeId=3&size=RVC-B&source=search It actually is made by Bugge, the car cover makers. It has 2 sets of adjustable tighteners both front & back, along with tie downs to either go over the coach or under. It was about 6" too wide on each side, but that allowed it to go all the way to the ground. Length was perfect. And it has zippers to open up both the driver & passenger doors as well as the coach door. If you put a large ball/bag of styrofoam pellets on top to allow moisture to drain off easier, it'd be perfect. I keep my 92 Itasca 321RB under cover in a pole barn that does have a few leaks & gets wind, and it stayed dry. I use it as well to keep it clean as the ranch is pretty dusty. It's very lightweight and is easy to put on, off. I noticed no wear after a year, and the price is right! ---------------------------------------- We also live Western Washington (Bothell) and can relate to 'wetness' issue. Started with tarp and more tarp, but ended up with more permanent solution: Metal carport. For less money and perpetual replacements of various fabric/canvas materials, we've found it's efficacy far exceeds the alternatives. ----------------------------------------- Covers are temporary and not very good in wet of snowy areas. carports are more permanent (metal or tube and tarp type) Inside storage is the best. http://www.toymike.com/toyhouse/DONE.jpg ---------------------------------------- I'm very happy with mine: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toyota-campers/photos/album/1432968488/pic/109 2939162/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc It is 12 x 20. Siding is actually 20 1/2' end to end. A tad short but I didn't have the south end enclosed. I hang a tarp there which gives me a little lee way. If I'd had more cement slab I would have had it longer but the slab and pampas grass bush were already there and I needed the clearance between it and the fence so this is what I settled on. The Rader is 21' and sticks out a tad. Hind sight tells me I should have had them enclose the south end down to just above the nose of the Rader, then I could have used a short tarp (be easier to put up) but I think they would have wanted to put up a center post which would have defeated my purpose. The tarp rubbed the nose of the RV and before I noticed it rubbed a little paint off so I am now touching that up and this is what I have come up with to solve the problem: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toyota-campers/photos/album/1432968488/pic/100 6967733/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc A little rinky-dink but no one can see it but me. If you have room, get it long enough. I can't remember the cost exactly. Seems like it was around $1000, $1200? Can't remember for sure but you can go to those websites and it will tell you how to calculate exactly what you want.
  13. Jeffrey

    Getting the best MPG on Interstate

    I just drove 2800 miles, Colorado and back, and got 16 mpg. ('91 Winne Warrior with V6) I was able to get what I believe were decent miles per gallon because I didn't "punch it" (except maybe 3 times for just a few seconds each time) and I hardly used my brakes (stop, go, stop, go), except going down long, steep descents. I went as slow as 40 up some very steep ascents. I pulled off the road if a couple or more cars got behind me on single lane portions of the highway. But most importantly I made sure I kept the speed inside "the sweet spot" window; between 51 and 54, but mostly at 53. Some people believe these speeds are too slow, possibly because money is not an issue for them so higher speeds aren't an issue for them, or, they need to get to their destination within a certain time frame, or, they feel a certain need to conform and stay with or almost up with the speeders or, they're just plain impatient. I believe I've seen a sign on I-5 that reads "Minimum Speed 45". So, keep it above that and all is legally well. But if you truly want to save gas and not go under the minimum speed limit, you need to learn to be mellow at the wheel. Just get into the far right lane, and stay in the right lane, and keep an eye in the mirror for safety sake, and sit back and enjoy the "moment" and literally allow the opportunity to unwind nice and easy while being present, i.e. not overshadowed by an insatiable need or desire to keep up with the masses who, by the way, are generally wired by time and wanting to get from point A to point B with the least about of discomfort possible. The choice is yours. I-5 should be at least a 16 mpg adventure if you want it to be. If you were getting 11, I suspect you were pushing it. Remember, don't punch it. Keep it in the sweet spot (window) and play some easy listening music to keep you contained and happy. Happy driver, happy ToyHome.
  14. or, if you road out the storm at home, how'd you, your family and your MH fair? (I suspect if you thought your rig potentially might leak, this would have been THE Test.) I've been reading, not necessarily from MSM, how catastrophic things are on the coast, especially in Jersey, and beyond. And how the situation may get considerably worse, still. I've always got gear and grub in ours just in case any number of "turbulent" (natural or man made) events take place, and we have to move out of our home, into the rig.
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