longhaul

I have a Great Condition v6 Sunrader with the generator and awnings, etc. for sale. if interested, call me at 608 217 6225

ok, thanks for the info so far, i have a professional auto mechanic who will work for me on this project for ~25/hr and i have a shop space. would ideally like to get good at it and offer the service to others to convert their Toys to 4wd, and maybe its 'not worth it'...

I am thinking about converting a decent 89 Warrior with the 6 cylinder to 4 wheel drive. I have heard it can be done, I looked around on here for information, didn't find any. Does anyone know of a good maybe even step-by-step blog posts or website.... that really spells out how to do it, how big of a job, expenses, hours?

As many of us know, the outer bottom seams on the cabover like to open up, then water gets in under the cabover bed floor and soaks/rots up... soft floor/crunchy/..... I found what otherwise looks like a good Odyssey, 89 v6 for an ok price. I had this rot on my first Toye (winnebago v6) though not this bad, had it repaired at an rv dealer, think was about 1300$. Anybody done it themself competently... or have other ball parks for what a good rv place would get to do it....? It seems pretty much just in the floor, maybe up the wall a bit/bottom wood stringer.... do the odysseys have all wood frame? (do warriors or others have steel/metal frames?) Im pretty handy, just havent done it before, how much work/tips/steps? Or more importantly other stuff to check on this rot area before buying that would make a deal breaker? (i can check the other systems and such on the toyhome). I attached a pic, zoom in... I also know of a 94 warrior that has its whole inner ceiling sagging down.... steel frame? or junk?

looking at buying this 89 v6 tomorrow, all in all ok unit, rough/vibration at idle or low speed when in drive (not in neutral), seems pretty smooth when at higher speeds. plus the motor 'jumps' visibly when turned on with the hood up looking at it. Think i have it narrowed to a broken motor mount. safe to drive it 4 hrs? risk of a second mount braking?..... easy to get at? /easy to fix.... parts available?

15w40 recommended above. REALLY? thats for diesel engines -- should this be edited out of such an important post/sticky? Or is it really the way to go? Im gonna stick w 10w30 myself till here conclusive info otherwise.

now not sure what i ordered is right, has the 546d in the name and is for metric, says 0.98 Ht ~hole thread diameter? maybe not 9.3mm, doesnt convert even close to right.... here is the oreileys link http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/XTS0/17546D/N1769.oap?ck=Search_N1769_1441799_4984&pt=N1769&ppt=C0337#itemDetailTab_

still not sure on this thread/what to order, found the 546d's at oreileys, are they ~to bent/not vertical enough...? here is the Part # 17-546D also having trouble finding regular straight 9.3mm valve stems went with these from oreileys Part # 17-543D

What exactly do i need for a whole new valve stems? Just tell them they are metric, and there is ~only one size/....? Getting the nexen tires. maybe with getting the extended/curved stems for the inner 2 of the duallies for easier filling. Also does it seem like 40 psi front, 45 rear, even if tire can take more, i read on here this is debated..... Thanks a bunch for your help Don,

the above lists are good, how about lubing rear wheel bearings? is that kind of assumed with doing inner and outer axle seals? is this just on the rear? how often/when do you know if this needs to be done? anything need to be done to front wheels?

update in case anybody cares: seller took it to a mechanic for me, he checked the timing belt, said it looked fine even kinda shiny. though the tires are 12 years old. I'll be buying 6 tires and taking them up with me, have them mounted up there if/when i buy the warrior. **? is it good to have the rear bearings repacked/..... when the tires are off? or anything else.....?**

is that a pretty easy job? sounds like it. Thanks, think i will have the mechanic up there do that!

Back East Don -- by a uhaul trailer you are meaning a sort of low bed/flat bed trailer that the motorhome totally sits on, the toyota would have no contact with the road, vs a dolly where rear wheels would still be turning, hence diconnect driveshaft. Right? guess i didnt think would fit on a full trailer, sounds like you have looked into it and it will, nice option, thanks. course if i dont sweat the drive back (an hour of it thru the minneapolis/st paul big city traffic) because of timing belt, then the next issue is Tires -- i'm trying to get the buyer to send me date codes tomorrow, though they say they are 'pretty old' and cracked up by the tread, not so much/at all on sidewalls.... thinking about ordering 2 new tires and take em with if/when i buy have 2 new put on front at least then i wont loose steering....

I am looking at buying a 94 V6 Warrior, 88k miles. No record or decal on radiator of timing belt ever having been done. I am concerned about driving it home 4 hours (seems from looking on here it Not an interference engine), still don't want it to snap on the way home. **Is there an inspection port on the side or such of the timing belt cover that a good mechanic can remove and get a good read on it??** there is a mechanic up by the seller who will do this if its doable. Also, anybody ever had one of these motorhomes towed? thinking about getting AAAplus as backup in case it snaps on way home. To tall for a flat bed probably, have to remove drive shaft to front tow.... will tow company do this....?? Also, is it worth getting a compression test done on it? if seems to run sorta smooth and no obvious smoke.... I'll probably do the timing belt and more once i get it home to a mechanic i know.... Thanks