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fullyhuman

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  1. ...and, just in case there weren't enough questions already: how much additional sane load capacity (rear axle, and total capacity, including as relates to very light towing) might i gain with the 6-lug update? i know the engine itself has its own opinions on that but i am curious. as of now, since i have not gotten a base weight, i have no idea if i technically have room for 1000# of people and stuff or if i am already overweight with all tanks empty, though my guess would be much closer to the latter. if there are any hard numbers or other thoughts on this to be had, they would be really helpful! again, many thanks. lisa
  2. also, can anyone weigh in on the "full floating kit" idea? if i've already got good tires and if the rims do turn out to be adequate as singles, could this modification turn the axle into a full floater and thus, other than minding the weight rating, might i have achieved toyota nirvana? & if so how much might that cost? : ) i found this: http://frontrangeoff...=87f97c6a1ab4c0 for $669 for the parts, but it seems to be for a 4x4, and was also sent this : http://www.ruffstuff.../FLANGETOY.html which is a much more appealing $195, but mentions it is "made to use the IFS Truck ('86-'95) calipers and FJ40 or FJ60 rotors" and I have a 1982...?
  3. hey y'all - i am ongoingly glad for the input on here. even the conflicts teach me good things and i really appreciate every single post. here is the newest information: the good-condition tires on the rig are all 185R14C/100R, rated for 1874# apiece as singles, and labeled as being load range D. GVWR is 4650#, front axle 1850, rear axle 2900... (though those don't add to 4650, but whatever!) unfortunately no actual weights yet as i have not yet figured out where to weigh it in the heart of a major metropolitan area such as this, where the nearest truck stop is 40 miles down the road and i don't know where else those two part scales might be found. it seems like these tires may be good news in the sense that i have nicer tires than i might otherwise have...? but doesn't in and of itself solve the problem. it does, however, make me want to know if unbolting the outer duallys might be the first step in the right direction given that the bearings were done quite recently. can anyone weigh in on whether these rims can handle being used as singles? my uneducated guess is that they might be, if i stay within the rear axle weight limits, since the chassis was manufactured and intended to be driven with singles on those rims with that same axle weight rating, had it become a pickup instead. i am still looking towards any option i can manage to afford to do a full swap, which is clearly the safest bet, and may need to drive a distance to do so affordably if i can manage it, which would mean at least one distance trip without the axle update even if that was the very next step. thus i would like to know - if the choice for this very moment was to drive on the two "foolies" or to take one off on each side, which would be best? the tires as i said are pretty new and in good shape and would be consistently inflated to 65. thanks again! so excited to get out in the world in this lovely lady. lisa
  4. & i do know how to change a flat : ) i also would probably be doing so with a howling kid in the cab. the redundancy would therefore be nice, but i can't afford to do the axle swap for the typical price simply for that bonus (or for any other reason). i can see going for a full swap if i can do it for a few hundred, total (and i know i'm pretty much dreaming there) or if in the end it is the ONLY way to go safety wise and i can find SOME way to afford it, like i trip over an easter basket full of gold dubloons or start a drug cartel or something. beyond that, i would love to continue deepening my understanding of the various options. re: the tire upgrade possibility - is it going to be possible to retain the original inner rims and just beef up the tires on them to a load D & go to single tires? if not, is it possible to find heavier duty rims that have the same lug nut pattern? what would be the approximate cost for new and for used rims and for new and for used load D tires? would this option need to be combined with a full floater kit to be safe, and if so, what is the additional cost of that? & presumably, the caution with overall weight would remain necessary and be based on the same axle limitations as now, yes? with an axle swap, the tires would remain the same size as the current 5-lug original & i could swap them onto the new 6-lug rims, as said above? i got the impression somewhere that tire size would change so just wanting to confirm. would there be any gain in ability to carry weight with the full swap, i.e. a greater load rating on the axle or whatnot, or would i still need to be just as careful? i know the current tires would have something to do with that, if they were going to be put on, & i will get that info ASAP. ditto with weight. just can't git 'er done on easter. more soon, i hope, thank you all again!
  5. i also found this, will this work? 1979 Rear Axle Toyota Truck20R,4 SP 10K455$150Arrow Auto Parts RP+ Member USA-WI(Green-Bay) E-mail 1-800-695-2776
  6. thanks, i'll look! what make/model did you search to produce the $150 maybe in st. francis? is there a place i can look for a full list of workable donor vehicles, since it sounds like this axle could come from many models, but as far as i can tell, you have to search one by one? also, is anything here useful? http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/pts/2941675011.html i'm assuming not because it's 4x4, unless a conversion is a lot easier than it sounds, but if there is any way to make use of this rear axle (to go 4x4 or just to swap somehow), these are $50 apiece and 3 minutes away!
  7. oh, and i'm in minneapolis! i may have a relatively easy way to move an axle up from the greater chicago area or within a reasonable distance of gary, indiana or anywhere along that route from MN,, if that helps at all. ditto for anywhere between missoula, mt and minneapolis. i tried to email chuck the indiana axle guy just to see if he was still sitting on any of them, but the email bounced...
  8. thanks for the welcome! & thanks again to you all for being willing to share what you know, it means so very much. it is the (almost) 18' rear dinette, which is my favorite layout of any toyota camper, so, hooray! 4 spd. it is not here with me so i can't go check tire specs but will report back tomorrow, i know they are all identical, both front and rear, if that is helpful in the meantime. the whole list for whomever is interested: almost everything in great condition, parked on concrete all its life, a plethora of receipts and maintenance records spanning two owners. the bad: carburetor runs a touch rich according to my mechanic but not a concern per se, there is one exhaust gasket that could be replaced, idles a little rough in the beginning, minor oil leak, and either the gas gauge or sending unit needs replacement for the gauge to work. could perhaps use a tuneup but if so, my mechanic did not mention or suggest it. oh, and it's not a 4x4, i'd say that's bad ; ) apart from that, every.single.thing was in running order as of time of purchase - clutch is good with significant life left, brake pads were new (though with middle-aged rotors), new shocks, new batteries, good newer tires, newly replaced bearings and seals, new hot water tank, more bits of new things that i can't even remember now like spark plugs. a somewhat newer cassette deck that played a tape adapter connected to an MP3 player without complaint, which is my preferred method anyhow ; ) rumored to get 19mpg at 55mph but i figure it'll get the typical 12-17 like nearly all of them. interior partially updated with new carpet, very clean and little wear, everything working on every sort of power system - i checked painstakingly. rear dinette bed rebuilt to be sturdier, new cushion covers, new roof vent covers, homemade front passenger window AC unit, nice little touches everywhere like a step cover, the storage tarp, wheel covers, a campsite ground cover, a cab privacy screen, a windshield cover, the spare of course, and DC air compressor and all wrenches/screwdrivers/ratchets/etc related to use in various little ways included. my mechanic, who is as of yet uninitiated into the specific glory of these motorhomes, was trying to talk me out of it on the sheer basis of age and had little mechanically to build his case upon, though he tried. he basically said somewhat disapprovingly - "well, it is 30 years old..." about twelve times. though the man himself is 60 ; ) admittedly, this motorhome *is* older than me! the water pump has not been replaced so that is on the bucket list now along with the thermostat and radiator cap as suggested. all visible hoses, belts, radiator, exhaust manifold, other enginey bits i know not how to name, bearings, suspension etc were looked over closely by said skeptical and experienced mechanic. no roof or window leaks. water system fully functional, propane system fully functional with updated 20# tank setup and modern regulator. happy working 3 way fridge. has a newer gloriously tempting 3000# hitch, though of course i know that is far far far more than adviseable and i'll probably stick to 500 lbs or less. included a sturdy homemade hitch-insert rack to use for minor cargo and two bottle and two scissor jacks for leveling along with extra bumper mounts he welded to support the jacks and the rack. they sold because they finally got sick of bumping into each other and upgraded to a larger RV which was patiently awaiting its new parking spot across the yard. based on the list prices i've seen, this seems to be a fair to possibly good price for what it is. i'd be happy to hear what y'all think of its value, one way or another, so i can keep on learning. it is the most i have ever paid for ANY vehicle in my entire life, but as a toddler chasing single mom who's not very quick mechanically and who lacks a garage full of tools (or a garage at all for that matter), and neither is dating or related to anyone with those skills either, getting something this turnkey felt very valuable. i'm sure i'll have plenty more repair learning experiences along the way, but i feel lucky that as of today i have not started my journey with a long list. oh, except the axle ; P i still can't believe it's mine, even if possibly temporarily, and i can't even climb around in it and whoop and jump on the bed yet as it's parked a half hour away currently. gah! oh well. on to solving this axle situation acceptably. thanks all, again, for your time; my son already likes to chatter about his "truck-house"! lisa
  9. hey all - thank y'all SO much for this information, which it seems many of you are asked to repeat ad nauseum on this forum by newbies like me. i did decide to purchase, as i couldn't imagine letting this excellent condition, essentially rustless, thoroughly maintained, mechanic approved, receipts-and-all local sunrader go. i made the purchase knowing i did not have a full decision or full information yet about my action plan for the axle, banking on the fact that if it comes down to it, i can in all likelihood resell later in the spring for what i paid when RV fever hits, even with full axle disclosure, and at least i'll know a oooo of a lot more than when i started about toyota MH ownership. plus, the satisfaction of just simply driving it home... oy! i have actively wanted one of these for years now and i'd of course really love to keep this beautiful rig. i truly can't afford to put $2k more into it even if it means i need to resell for safety reasons, and thus lose the rig after having only a little time for me and my two year old to climb around in it parked. that said, i am utterly willing to consider any and all safety plan that is less costly than that but still cuts the mustard. i have not yet weighed it but i will do so ASAP and report back. so far the options i am aware of are these: 1 - drive this 17'7"er with its current axle, its current freshly replaced bearings, & its current new-ish dually tires, taking great care with PSI and load with full weight/load information about axles, per-tire weight, unloaded and loaded weights including the weight of gas, various water/sewage tank loads, all mammalian beings, and objects down to the last french fry - this is clearly a contentious solution, but some say is OK...? 2 - do as above but remove "fake" dually outer wheels? this is not clear if it is an advocated option. 3 - just upgrade the rims and tire (s)? i am confused about this as i thought the issue was with the axle and/or bearings failing due to accumulated strain from flexion, not the tires failing, but also excited if it would be both safe enough and the most affordable. i am a gifted craigslister/ebayer if i know exactly what i'm looking for, and about to teach myself more about junkyard hunting, so i may be able to do this somewhat cheaply given time and specifications. i would love more information about this option, especially possible cost, but as i said, i am not sure how it addresses the axle issue as i understand it. is this a possible solution because i would swap down to a single badass tire/rim set that could take the weight but would eliminate the barbell effect? is it the axle itself that would fail/snap or the bearings that would give out and send the flaming duallys trotting down the interstate? would the previous 88k on the duallys have already permanently compromised the axle, even with its new bearings and such, if i swapped the rims/tires out for a better single set? & would the axle weight rating (presumably) remain unchanged even with new tires/rims, so extreme awareness about load, etc would still be required? 4 - do a full swap, which sounds like it will cost at least $2k even if i get a junkyard axle...? 5 - use a full floater kit? i'm not sure if this falls into the category of "beefing up" that is ultimately meaningless or not, but i would LOVE more information about this option too including possible price ranges. 6 - insert your brilliance here? much love and many thanks for any further help, from a single mom hoping to RV it all summer to turn rent money into gas money and time spent chasing her son around in the woods!
  10. hey. my name is Lisa, and i'm a newbie who found a very well maintained '82 sunrader, 88k, that i *may* purchase today. but it has the (well maintained) original axle with four new tires. i have been researching this issue madly. it seems there may be a way to improve the axle with a full floating kit without a full swap? what is this and what might it cost? how much does an axle replacement cost if you junkyard the axle locally? is the original axle possibly OK with care about the load? i have yet to be able to find reliable numbers on per tire load and don't yet understand if it might be better to remove the dually wheels, at minimum, or just leave well enough alone...? this sunrader is 17"7" long so not likely recalled, but i know that is not necessarily meaning that it should not have the axle replaced. i am willing to be meticulous about weight & will not use the holding tanks, be on top of tire pressure, and do what i can to attend to bearings (listening as i drive, checking for heat if I can learn how). my seasoned and very trustworthy mechanic, who did the inspection, does *not* think it would be a problem to continue on the axle as is, even after i related a lot of information about the history of the axle recall & he thinks if it ever did begin to fail there would be some warning sign that he thinks i'm sharp enough to catch. i am quite sharp. that said, i am a single parent traveling with my son who is my entire life, so i need to choose a plan that seems genuinely smart/safe, if not the absolute most foolproof safety plan via full replacement. the cost of full replacement, if it is $2000 minimally as i estimate, makes the difference between whether i can afford to buy this otherwise IDEAL motorhome or not & this one, i have no doubt, will sell quickly at that price even with the axle as is. any advice would be very helpful... thanks much for your time! lisa
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