warrior maintianer

You may find this helpful. The Toyota part # for replacement fluid is 08813-03001 you may have to order it. There are many reasons to get air in the system. One bad reason the beginning of a blown head gasket. (A competent shop should have bleed the system) here is how you can. First there are 3 gasket surfaces on your radiator cap. the small button in the center is a vacuum break and allows fluid to return from the overflow reservoir upon cool down if stuck it will not work. The second is on the bottom of the cap it is necessary to pressurize the system. The third is the gasket outermost on the cap it prevents leakage forcing the overflow into reservoir an holds vacuum so the fluid can return if any of these are bad your system will not work correctly. If you fill the radiator up completely let it rest check again. when it will take no more install cap completely disconnect the highest heater hose on firewall fill with antifreeze and water as much as possible and reconnect. Make sure your overflow reservoir is at least half full. now put heat control to full heat and start. Let temperature get to normal check the level of the overflow reservoir it should be the same or higher. Now turn off and let cool no hurries here. when cooled down you should find the reservoir is lower as the fluid was drawn back into the engine after air was displaced if below half add more coolant. You may hear air rushing thru the heater upon start it may take a few hot and cooling cycles for this to stop when it does the fluid level in the reservoir should rise and fall to consistent levels when hot and cold. Good Luck

an old trick is to take a bearing and hone the inside so it is a slip fit us it to set up rear and then press on new bearing.

Had a good Toyota parts manager he got me the bushing for my motor home. (4) 90385-18146, (4) 90385-18012, (4) 90385-01846 . I chose the OEM because the urethane can really give a harsh ride. A local spring shop removed the springs installed the bushings and rearched the springs and but new nylon pads in place. $350.00, bushings were $ 2.60 each My springs were frozen when I got my motor home it sat that long. I freed them up before I had this done but what a difference it made in the ride height and ride. I have also added Firestone air bags it all works great.

If you search on e bay you will find some kits listed here is one below. Firestone make a nice kit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-1995-Toyota-Pickup-2WD-Firestone-Ride-Rite-Rear-Suspension-Air-Bags-Kit-/171224802287?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27ddcb23ef&vxp=mtr John

I had a shop for 30 years and converted hundreds of vehicles to 134r. To make it work as good as Freon 12 you need a bigger condenser (the piece in front of your radiator) or a extra fan (electric turns on when the ac is on). when you are working on ac you have 2 lines coming off your compressor (high side is outside, low side is inside)The high side psi is no joke and can be dangerous. if your system has a trace of Freon (and you have a friend who makes beer and uses nitrogen to charge there kegs) You can use the nitrogen (very cheep and dry) to charge the system and look for a leak If you get it to run the gauge set will mirror Freon reading but without a full charge will not work correctly. If you can find your leak put the system under vacuum first if that holds charge it. You will not need as much Freon if you use 134 if you look you can find a formula for the conversion. John

Good Morning Dave do you have any pictures of your motor and trans mounts?? Im also interested in modifications to get driveshaft to connect to trans. thanks John

Good Morning Linda, I had a repair shop for 25+ years and tire psi is a pet peeve of mine. Tire technology has changed over the years so using an old reference is of no value. Tire designs have changed and tires typically now run at higher psi with thinner side walls for better millage this make old recommendations in manuals and on doors incorrect. Every tire has markings on the sidewall they will tell you the max psi & the weight the tire is designed to hold at that psi. Usually the higher the load rating the more weight the tire will hold but it is at a higher psi. The less psi in a tire the less weight it can carry the danger with a underinflated tire is that it will run hot!!this will cause it to fail. AN old tire guy showed me long ago that a failed tire will usually have something in it that caused air to leak and the tire to run soft & hot I have found this to bee true. You can start bye inflating the tires to their recommended max see how they look. often vehicles such as ours are pushing small tires to the max and need to be at this psi. For my money synthetic oil is worth the money, the improvements in lubrication over the years has really made a difference in longevity. I like Castrol syntec right now 0w-40 seems to be easy to get I find Walmart is an good place to get oil my last 5qt jug was $21.99.

Dave this really looks good so far I would love to see this. I have considered a similar swap, one of my biggest concerns is cooling as the v6 has a tough time when its hot out! keep the picks coming Thanks

I have a 21' warrior with aluminum roof panels. At one time the roof was covered with a lot of debris for years. This caused many pin holes in the aluminum. I cleaned off the old caulking & sanded the roof wiped it with lacquer thinner & used calk to fill the larger holes. I then applied rustoleum bed liner a gallon was enough for 2 coats on top of that elastomeric roof coating. This gave the roof back it's waterproof integrity and worked for 3 years unfortunately it did nothing for the structural integrity ! Gravity & the weight of the AC unite won so I am now replacing the roof I will post picks when I'm done. I only wish I owned it sooner. The coating was still intact when I removed the roof.