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fred heath

Toyota Advanced Member
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About fred heath

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1979 Champion mfg. "Galavan". 95K origional miles. Purchased from second owner with all paperwork from day one.
  • Location
    Raleigh, NC

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  1. Might be your ignition board. How old is your furnace?
  2. Probably nobody left alive to answer that question 😂. At least now we’ve established they did sell a separate c&c labeled a special body vehicle.
  3. My bad. The only difference I can see is the c&c uses 7.50-14 6 ply tires and the pickup uses 7.0-14 6 ply tires. My owners manual is for a conventional pickup. The different tire size may allow the extra 500 lbs. At this point in time does it really matter?
  4. Easy. The pickup bed weighs about 500 lbs. Also, if you think about it there were other commercial applications besides motor homes. U Haul etc. Why buy a complete truck just to discard the bed.🙂
  5. It has the 8” r&p vs the 7.5” on the half ton. I don’t really care either way. This is what I’ve been able to obtain from Toyota and other sources during my axle swap. Attached is the weight rating from my owners manual. The 1/2 ton came standard with the 7.5” r&p. The 3/4 ton (or 1 ton as commonly referred) came equipped with the 8” r&p and was designated GO82. I’ve added all I’ve got. Have fun 🙂
  6. It has the 8” r&p vs the 7.5” on the half ton. I’m don’t really care either way. This is what I’ve been able to obtain from Toyota and other sources during my axle swap. Nothing else to add 🙂
  7. Actually Derek, you’re correct. RN 28 was used for the long bed version. The GO82 rear axle was used on the 1 ton. The RN 28 combined with GO82 was the 1 ton c&c. I’ve never seen a motor home coach installed on anything but the 1 ton chassis. If you look at the ID plate under the hood you’ll see that RN28 and GO82 are permanently embossed. I don’t believe you could get the RN28 without the GO82 axle.
  8. Mine is a 1978. They used the same c&c for 1976&1977. If it starts RN28, it’s the c&c not a regular 1/2 ton pickup.
  9. If your chassis ID starts with “RN28” it is the standard 1 ton cab & chassis used for motor homes and commercial applications. If you have front disc brakes it would be a mistake to remove this valve. The valve is designed specifically for this type of vehicle. If it’s installed, it’s supposed to be there. Remove at your own risk.
  10. The brake proportioning valve on the 1978 is attached directly below the tandem master cylinder(see photo). They are factory preset for a disc/drum combination. They rarely go bad. When they do it’s usually the rears that lockup first not the front. Before assigning blame to this valve, are you sure you have no residual air in the rear brake lines? Pay particular attention to the fabric brake line from the chassis to the rear axle. Is it new, or are you reusing the old line? A dry rotted line can leak and reduce pressure. I installed a gm 14 bolt ff axle with much larger rear brake shoes and my brakes work fine. I’m not sure what the toyotaminis link is about. It doesn’t show up in the FSM that I have, nor did it come on my vehicle. These valves are still available on eBay. Good luck. Fred.
  11. I think you can make the swap without changing the carrier r&p. They make adapters to mate your current driveshaft to the newer ff axle. Worst case, you have a new rear driveshaft fabricated to match up with the ff Toyota axle. Cost is about $300.00 for new driveshaft. Other than that, relocate your spring perches and you should be good to go. P.S. My axle thread is posted earlier on this thread.
  12. Toyota in 1978 produced a limited number of 4WD trucks known as a “wolverine”. I believe they used Jeep drivetrain components for the front axle and transfer case. These trucks are pretty much extinct. Google for more info. As far as rear axle goes, I installed a 14 bolt, 10.5 ring gear on my 1978 chassis. There’s a build thread in the archives, not sure how to locate it. Depending on your mechanical abilities you’re looking at $3-4K for the swap. Fred
  13. Becky, when you change the tires, take a picture of the rear axles. I’ve always wanted to see how they setup the tag axles on the Toyota.
  14. Good call Linda. I was originally thinking of my two different bolt patterns. I love those original hubcaps. Whatever spare the manufacturer provided (14 or 15”) will work just fine.
  15. Actually, on second thought you could keep the 14” on the front (if you want to save the hubcaps). You have tag axles, so even if one rear tire goes flat, you still have 3 more to get you to a repair shop. You should be fine with whatever size spare tire your carrying. No need for 2 spare tires. If you loose a front 14”, the 15 will get you to a shop.
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