Jump to content

fred heath

Toyota Advanced Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About fred heath

  • Rank
    Over 200 Posts!

Profile Information

  • Gender

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1979 Champion mfg. "Galavan". 95K origional miles. Purchased from second owner with all paperwork from day one.
  • Location
    Raleigh, NC

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. And if you ever want to verify your vehicle belongs to you the frame # is also stamped on the left front frame rail by the lower control arm.
  2. No Derek, we’re discussing the 1978 Toyota motorhome. Since the 17 digit VIN didn’t become mandatory until 1981 it’s pretty certain there’s no VIN involved in this conversation. So....... If you need axle information on a 1978 Toyota , you must submit to Toyota parts department the ID that Toyota has assigned to that particular part (pre 1981). This information is obtained from the mfg. ID plate under the hood. In my case I had the GO82 axle assembly. From this # Toyota can reference every part of this assembly including description and individual part numbers.
  3. Derek, You need to find something more constructive to do with your time. The number on the id plate is the ONLY number the Toyota dealers computer uses to locate parts. You really need to put some “boots on the ground” and wean yourself away from that computer keypad. Any information I post in this forum is based on first hand knowledge in the hopes it will save other members from doing redundant searches. Anyone can read my posts and accept the facts as stated, or go out and perform their own research. I personally don’t really care one way or the other.
  4. Looks the same to me. The font is all the same size. Picky........Picky.
  5. First off......Check you ID plate under the hood for axle type. It should show “GO82” (see my example above). If it does you have the 3/4 ton 8” rear differential. These axle shafts are different than the 1/2 ton 7.5” differential. The 8” axle shafts are interchangeable left and right (both same length). The 1/2 ton shafts are different lengths and identified as left or right......driver or passenger side. The 1/2 ton shafts will not work in the 3/4 ton axle. If your Id plate shows a different axle other than GO82 it might be the 1/2 ton. You would have to check with a Toyota dealer. Going to singles will reduce your rear track.
  6. The frame # is on a metal plate attached under the hood usually on the drivers side inner fender. It gives the frame #, engine, transmission, rear axle and factory paint code. I’ve attached a photo of what it looks like.
  7. That’s great Linda. Definitely want to keep that information available. No such animal when I was looking.
  8. That’s good. You can order axle shafts through places like JC Whitney. They will state left side and right side as the shafts are unequal on the 7.5” 1/2 axle. Should be about $75 each side. This is the first time I’ve seen foolies mounted on the 1/2 ton axle. Most of the c&c’s had the GO82 setup.
  9. The problem with a junkyard axle (if you can find one) probably came off of another Toyota motor home or U-haul box truck. You’re still taking the same chance as far as metal fatigue on the shafts themselves. A simple visual inspection of your current axle shafts might not show the micro cracks that could exist. To remove the shafts involves destroying the existing bearings and seals. New ones will be needed. Custom axle shafts would be the way to go. Last time I priced them they run about $700-800 per pair. You must send one of your axle shafts to the fabricators for exact reproduction. On the GO82 axle both left and right shafts are interchangeable so no need to send both. I believe a member here (Misha T) may of had this service performed when he broke an axle shaft not too long ago. Linda S can probably retrieve this information. If you can find his supplier they most likely will have the dimensions on file which will save you having to pull your existing shafts.
  10. fred heath

    Onan 3.0 genset

    Many onans have a circuit breaker located behind the access panel. On my microlite it’s rated 25A. Check to be sure you didn’t trip this to “off” while working on the fuel filter. Also, if you have a transfer switch be sure it’s set to “generator “ position.
  11. You have 40 years of “foolie “ weight on your rear axle shafts. Switching to wide singles may help a little, but you’re still applying stress to the axle shafts. If you have the “GO82” rear differential, you can no longer get these shafts unless you have them custom manufactured. If a shaft breaks while driving it can allow your rear tire to detach from the axle (not a good thing). Conversion to a heavy duty ff single tire axle can be done but your looking at 3-4 K for the switch.
  12. Yes to both questions. Read the section on axle facts. Happy to answer any questions you may have afterwards.
  13. fred heath

    Sunrader Generators

    If you remove the upper shroud there will be a factory ID. plate on the rear of the unit. This will give you the model # installed on your rig. As WME stated, the mini-Mach btu rating can change by model year. I have an original 1979 model that’s still working fine. It’s rated for 7100 btu. The 14”x14” rough opening is pretty standard for RV rooftop units. Before spending tons of money fixing an old unit you might be better off buying new. IMHO