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fred heath

Toyota Advanced Member
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About fred heath

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1979 Champion mfg. "Galavan". 95K origional miles. Purchased from second owner with all paperwork from day one.
  • Location
    Raleigh, NC

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  1. Easy test for PVC valve operation. Remove the oil fill cap and place a stiff piece of paper over the opening. With engine running you should see the paper being sucked downward. If not, time to change the valve.
  2. Did you check your exhaust for blockage? Takes two people for rough check. At idle, hold hand near exhaust pipe. As you increase rpm’s the flow should also increase proportionally. If your running an old catalytic converter or muffler something could have let go inside blocking the exhaust. Igniters are hard to find and very expensive. That would be the last thing I’d replace.
  3. It’s still a 42 year old vehicle. Big issue will be the rear axle. If duelly with 5 lug nuts the axle is unsafe and will require upgrading. Good luck.
  4. Wiring diagram usually attached to the rear of the capacitor protection cover. I took many photos of wire color and location on capacitors. You may have to remove the capacitors one at a time to access the printed identifiers on each capacitor. They are usually nested together. As soon as you get the information, reinstall the capacitor and reattach it’s wiring. Wait until you have all the new equipment in hand, then start the replacement one capacitor at a time. This is how I did the work.
  5. You should have a total of 3 capacitors under the shroud. Take pictures of the wiring, copy the numbers off each capacitor, and order all new through Grainger or similar electrical supplier. You don’t need Coleman parts. Capacitors are capacitors. I did this with my Coleman mini-Mach this summer. Runs brand new. You can also add a hard start to the start capacitor if you want. Total cost was less than $100 doing the work myself. Electrical components all have a mortality rate. Chances are if one capacitor fails, the others will soon follow. Rather than spending lots of time troublesh
  6. https://raleigh.craigslist.org/rvs/d/raleigh-1985-sunrader/7211165950.html Looks like like a good deal. Think it’s legitimate.
  7. Your ID plate 5th line down tells you your transmission type and your rear axle type. i.e. Trans/Axle. The transmission number may be hard to read as it’s stamped onto the plate. Axle should be the GO82.
  8. My 1979 Galavan has a steel skeleton frame with fiberglass covering. No rotten wood to deal with and holds my rooftop AC with no sag. I really lucked out on this one. Only 2 others like mine are still on the road.
  9. Check the ID plate in the engine compartment. Mine is located on the driver side inner fender. This tag will tell you what you have for engine, transmission and rear axle. Attached is a sample of what to look for. In my case I have the L43 transmission with the GO82 rear axle.
  10. I’ve found Haynes to be very accurate. For the longest time Chiltons didn’t include wiring diagrams. Must be something new. If your truck was originally a motorhome, you probably have the 8” axle. Other than that everything is the same. The ID plate under the hood will give you this information. If it says GO82, it the 8” axle. I’ve attached my ID plate so you know what to look for.
  11. Basically what you have is a Toyota pickup. If you can’t find a FSM, Haynes or Chiltons will work. I like Haynes because it provides electrical diagrams at the back of the book. Don’t think of it as a sunrader , that part is long gone.🙂
  12. If you have the 5 lug duel rear wheels your axle is unsafe to drive with. First consideration should be to upgrade to a ff axle.
  13. If you have the 5 lug duel rear wheels your axle is unsafe to drive with. First consideration should be to upgrade to a ff axle.
  14. If you have the 20R engine there are two different starters listed. Mine uses the gear reduction starter (more expensive) but will fit into the restrictive space on the block. The other starter (cheaper) has a much larger body which could prevent a flush fit to the block. This would prevent the starter drive from engaging the flywheel which could be part of your problem. If you don’t have the gear reduction starter, try it and see if that corrects your problem.
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