vrocrider

Run a bottle of Techron fuel injector cleaner through the system. Follow instructions EXACTLY paying special attention to one bottle to 15 gallons or less & insert at empty before filling. Bet you'll be pleasantly surprised.

Thanks for research Linda! Local Winnebago RV dealer told me they use a product available at Home Depot / Lowes call Thermo Ply made by Ox Building Materials. 4 x 8 sheet $13, 1/8 inch thick. Data sheet indicates it is a treated cellulose based product with foil on one side and a plastic type finish on other. Told used in the building trade as a backer board to brick. Water resistant ratings but not water proof. Stiff but flexible product. Total filon piece is 48 x 83. Gluing backing pieces consisting of 1/8 luan for 10 inches, Thermo Ply 17 inches, 1/8 Luan for 21 inches. This piece will eliminate the window. Traveling in unchartered waters for me. Suggestions welcomed!

Hello. Happy New Year. Back on this project. Hemet Valley RV in California makes what I need...filon laminated to scored plastic where sharp curve happens over cab roof and luan wood on the remaining area. Looking for a supplier closer to Alabama gulf coast. Thanks for any suggestions.

Thanks Linda. Not too good on posting pictures. Trying to think "outside the box" I'm thinking of going with plastic lattice from big box using plastic u shaped ends to hold lattice at side rails. Result should be 2.5 ft. curved lattice to support filon. Any thoughts or better ideas? Thanks.

Previous posts back in the spring focused on cab over rebuild using existing window/windshield. Back on the project & have decided to eliminate window and go back with solid Filon. Winnebago used grooved styro foam board in the curved area above the cab. I have the original grooved foam glued to the curved plastic interior trim per the factory set up. I'm having difficulty figuring out how to reassemble using the factory curved styro foam. Anybody have any experience with this? Thanks.

Sorry to hear the news. Hang in there. This can be solved. As I mentioned in one of my previous posts I'd call the Texas Car Doctor show this Saturday on KSEV Houston, Tx. Or call direct the best mechanic I know & on he's on the show. Robert, owner of AutoTectronics in Katy Tx. He'll talk to you or your mechanic if you call his shop. Just appreciate he's running a business & appreciate his time. He may have to call you back. I called the radio show a while back for you. They gave some ideas & wanted to know if solved. One that comes to mind is clogged exhaust. Don't recall if you've tried to run the motor with exhaust disconnected. Call him. It will cost you only your time.

Sorry to hear the news. Hang in there. This can be solved. As I mentioned in one of my previous posts I'd call the Texas Car Doctor show this Saturday on KSEV Houston, Tx. Or call direct the best mechanic I know & on he's on the show. Robert, owner of AutoTectronics in Katy Tx. He'll talk to you or your mechanic if you call his shop. Just appreciate he's running a business & appreciate his time. He may have to call you back. I called the radio show a while back for you. They gave some ideas & wanted to know if solved. One that comes to mind is clogged exhaust. Don't recall if you've tried to run the motor with exhaust disconnected. Call him. It will cost you only your time.

Nice rig. Did you do the front window removal? I'm doing this now & need help. Thanks.

Called my radio mechanics. Their suggestions: 1.) verify temp gauge. Shoot IR gun near where temp sensor plugs into system or install 2nd gauge. 2.) Verify base timing. Verify timing advancing with RPM increase. 3.) Clogged muffler/cat converter. This would also cause a loss in power. Good luck.

Infrared IR no touch temperature gun's are not too expensive. Quick way to verify temps. Fan clutch...My Toy V6 has stock hydraulic actuated fan clutch. Typically this design very bullet proof. Years ago on a jeep went from stock hydraulic to aftermarket with I don't know what type design. Had to go back to stock hydraulic because aftermarket fan pulled too much air at speed. Sounded like a jet turbine & I'm sure was detrimental to MPG. I'd think the opposite could take place where aftermarket could slip too much & not pull enough air. TESTING FC... The second problem a fan clutch can have is the opposite problem. The clutch fails to engage no matter how hot the engine becomes. This condition will cause the engine to overheat because the fan fails to pull the necessary air through the radiator that cools the engine by the use of the systems coolant. This problem can be detected by listening to the fan while the engine is running and hot, you should be able to hear the fan engage. If you do not hear the fan start working shut the engine off and open the hood. Try to spin the fan clutch it should give a fair amount of resistance. If the fan just freewheels the clutch inside the fan has gone bad and should be replaced to prevent engine damage due to overheating. This problem will also degrade the operation of the air conditioner as well due to the lack of air being pulled through the condenser of the system.

I'd review the specs closely on new radiator vs. old replacement. New ones typically are cheap aluminum & come in all different flavors. I just had my original copper cleaned & pressure tested. $85 I spent would have bought a new aluminum. Might want to be thinking of block freeze plug removal to inspect for rust crude inspection. My guess is this is where your problem is if radiator specs check out OK. If clogged might ask radio folks about cooling system cleaner & replace fan clutch with electric fans. Perhaps a cheap alternative to opening motor.

Take to plastic grill/cover off the inside to access nameplate for A/C. Use model number to get exact gasket replacement. You have to remove grill to replace gasket so no wasted effort.

Can email or call in this Saturday on the radio show KSEV for free help from some of the best mechanics I've talked to in the SE & SW USA. Texascardoctor.com. Usually 2 to 3 mechanics on live radio show 12 - 2PM CST. Haven't read in detail all the posts but did you install OEM W pump & fan clutch or good aftermarket? If not might want to change WP/clutch. Otherwise seems like you"ll have to remove head & inspect passage ways. I'd sure contact Skeeter on radio for solution. He's helped me & my friends many times. Good luck.

I put 2 new gaskets in a few years back. One stacked on other. If I recall correctly reason was to get A/C up off roof so crude wouldn't accumulate so much.

Removed cab over wide window. New Filon from just below clearance lights down to crossover metal bar above cab. Anybody have experience with this type repair? Not sure in what order it's best to put back together. Plan to glue luan & curved foam piece on fiberglass then install. Any input welcomed.