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Bryan B

Toyota Advanced Member
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About Bryan B

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1983 toyota Sunrader 21ft
  • Location
    St.louis

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  1. Hi Bryan,

    My wife and I just purchased a 1986 sunrader. We are very excited to renovate it, but we are searching high and low for front curved window replacements. Do you have any ideas as to where we might be able to find some? 

  2. I am not a "Audiophile" and I dont see spending hundreds on a car stereo, I do like music however, with that said this is great upgrade for cheap with all the gizmos/ add ons of high dollar stereo that also just plugs right in to your factory harness. the sound is very very good too, they have many internal functions- just search T1807,1808,1809 and programming or functions.
  3. email me, I have a set of hubs with new bearings & new rotors (both used for a couple hundred miles but still in new condition) around that price and you wont be adding an adapter to your original hub.
  4. okay this isnt of my own doing but it has been done numerous times to 4Runners and other Toyota trucks on other forums I belong to but I havent seen it anywhere on this forum for anyone. the Scion (and later model toyotas) stereo is a plug and play upgrade, even the nav. unit in later model Toyots camrys etc will work. they are all double DIN size and fit with a little filing or dremel work. the scion 1807, 1808, 1809 are sat. ready and all sorts of new technology I wont list (if interested look the model numbers up) being a "factory" head unit most places sell them for nothing at all (all day long on car part.com for under 100) and an added bonus is no one hardly ever steals factory style headunits anymore. can someone post up images of the1807-1808-1809, my computer wont let me save pics right now for some odd reason. these are great upgrades on the cheap, many functions and sound parameters- when scrolling through the XB, TC and Xa- shosse XB for best sound depth in your cabs. Sat. ready and Ipod plug in capable plus features I havent listed for most all the models. some of you will need to unplug your factory amp (behind passenger side glove box) if your vehicle has one, most bare bones trucks didnt, its the 4runners I have found the amps in. I will post up pics of one in my 92 4Runner dash (same exact dash as your 89-95 trucks) I used an 1807
  5. I was going to say there is a company out there that makes the Toyota ones and already have the specs. http://customcommercialwheel.com/ AT6714 is the part # you want
  6. I picked up a sheet of polystyrene (plastic) and used a 3 inch hole saw to make a 3" disk to mount the brass ring for the horn from the original steering wheel and then mount it to the new wheels metal neck (I used plastic because otherwise it would ground out and the horn would always sound) drilled 3 holes to mount the ring with rivets then 2 holes through the plastic into the wheel itself to mount it. that was attached with rivets as well. 2 more small 1/16 inch deep holes for the 'blinker off' collar to spin with the wheel and done, as I said before there is a gap- this can be solved a couple of ways 1. use a thin wall aluminum "collar" about an inch wide with a mount to hide the gap or live with it. 2. most of you wont be swapping to a 2.7 or newer engine with cruise control or you can just add the ring to the column plastic. I am looking at mounting in later model (84-88 and 89-95) to see what may be needed but from what I can tell they are more compatible than an early 79-83 (depth and CC switches)
  7. My 83 steering wheel left alot to be desired when driving short or long distances, it was hard and small diameter (wheel grip area itself not overall size) and beginning to crack in places on the plastic. While I was at my friends tow yard I noticed a Rav4 that was getting scrapped so I happen to see the steering wheel was a nice fat one with soft material I removed it and believe it or not it bolted right up to my steering column, same spline count and all. There is a small hump in my column for the high beam/blinker stem and the amount that the Rav4 wheel sets off of the column actually clears the stem fine. The Rav4 wheel is 1 inch smaller in diameter than the 83 (1/2inch per side) and it sticks out 3/4 of an inch closer to driver- if you can live with that it is a great upgrade. I have seen some ugly aftermarket steering wheels and they really make a car look like crap, this looks totally factory and you can remove the air bag out of it and still utilize the horn function. the gap between the steering wheel itself can either have a small 4.5 inch cover made or I am using the cruise control ring mounted to my column for when I do the 2.7 swap to be able to use my cruise control. I will post up a pic of the ring I made to use the horn still.
  8. All factory Ujoints have a grease fitting- sometimes over the years the can fall off, get covered with gunk/dirt/grease and hidden but some aftermarket Ujoints are sealed. Dont go with anything other than Toyota factory Ujoints either. Neat tidbit of info, the Toyota mini truck Ujoint is comparable to a domestic truck 1 ton Ujoint. thats been quoted many times from professionals and magazines- not my own opinion. my opinion is yes they are 1 ton strong BTW
  9. because springs dont fail.... that would just be kind of a band aid. I can get a better spring rate with new springs to make it a bit more stable with the anti sway bars (anti roll bars, sway bars etc.)
  10. I have the frame drilled, tubing placed and welded for the spring shackle hangers under the cab, I am trying to source some factoy spring hangers to weld the frame in front and make this pretty much identical to a factory 4x4- the frame is the same 2wd/4wd its just where the IFS mounts are or the spring hangers on a 4wd are at. I am using a 1995 IFS 4x4 steering box, it will be a crossover steering set up which is a little safer than the factory push/pull style drag link from the factory when emergency braking, especially with the added weight of the RV. The axle is rebuilt, painted and currently the third member is being rebuilt with 4.88 gears in it, the R151 transmission has a gear ratio spread of First Gear: 4.313:1 Second Gear: 2.330:1 Third Gear: 1.436:1 Fourth Gear: 1.00:1 Fifth Gear: 0.836:1 and pretty much bullet proof. My rear springs will depend on many measurements before and after to decide what height I will have to go with over stock, a spring over axle would be way too much for the rear (7+ inches) I will use a heavier shackle as well (thicker metal) I will be ordering the rear springs from National springs- they are a little pricey but worth it. I will use adustable shocks because the price is right for them- name brands are almost as cheap as a normal quality shock, plus I will have to source a custom size. I will add some pics later this week
  11. it would be nearly impossible to keep your IFS- even to add a 4x4 IFS would be nearly impossible (nearly as in a Sh+t ton of work) I dont know of anyone yet to date that has done a swap to IFS 4x4
  12. Thats the amount of clearance a 4wd has too, the engine will torque up that 1/4 inch and bump your hood under acceleration/ load and you will see it lift it a bit, you can maybe space your hood up a tiny amount to help too.
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