terrieo

I did unhook everything cus I'm chicken .. .... when it comes to LP, even tho the tanks not in it right now I didn't know if there would be residual gas in the lines. After what I found earlier today was tempted to stick a rocket up it's tailpipe ! Was getting ready to take out stove & just happened to open cabinets above stove & sink & both have water damage where wall meets ceiling in back of cabinet! Wasn't there last fall. I covered this thing with const grade plastic & a huge tarp for the winter as I didn't get caulking done before winter. So I climbed up ladder to check roof seams on that side, didn't find any big cracks but does need new caulking, & noticed some parts of roof dipping & some spots (I could reach) were soft feeling but ceiling inside feels firm everywhere, does that mean I have to pull off roof & fix something between roof & ceiling or is it normal to have low spots? Looks like roof made out of 3 sections with seamsealed with caulk, I wanted to put that rubber roof stuff on whole roof, but won't be able to afford that if I have tear into roof. Right now just want to cry or ! TerrieO.

Hi! State parks in IL - if you have a disabled veterans card class A & B campsites are only $10/day utility fee, no camping fee charged any day of week, class C & D campsites (rough camping) no fee charged. IL Natural Resources site. Most states have reduced or no fee for vets, there's a site that lists info on fees for most states, sorry couldn't get it to paste here. Also there is a discount pass for national parks that it stated you could get thru VA dept. Google national camping fees for disabled veterans & the site explains it. Thank you for your service & sacrifices you are very appreciated, hope all goes well for you! TerrieO

The main LP line comes up in water heater compartment under stove and then water heater, furnace & stove/oven all 3 T off of there. Got the water heater out easy, its line wasn't even screwed on very tight & had no sealer at all on it, looks like the other 2 fittings have the white tape like you use for water lines, didn't get to them today. Going to try tomorrow before gets too hot out! Thx for the help! TerrieO

Hi,Need help! Floor is bad down side of coach under water heater, stove, furnace & sink, also big hole punched in floor under sink in electric cord compartment from blowout last year, hole looks bigger from inside than when looking underneath from outside. LP tank removed last yr as anchors broken & not fixed yet so, Do I need to also unhook engine battery along with elec & coach battery to prevent any sparks if any gas remaining in LP lines? And any suggestions on easiest way to remove all these things would be greatly appreciated. Thx Much TerrieO

Davidadro, Hi!, That's the way I want to go also, I have 90 Dolphin, do you use the 110v Power Pak Plus & will itwork to heat kitchen sink & shower or do you need to get the separate shower heater? Thx, TerrieO

I noticed this also, on way to rally last fall (was only 2nd time I had driven it very far), had a throw rug folded over the hump between seats & my small dog likes to sit there next to me, when we stopped a few hours later noticed rug & hump was really hot, we moved rug & pup, still seemed warm at times but not nearly as hot as at first. Wondered what ran under there, or if it was from a small manifold leak mechanic could hear before engine warmed up but told me could wait until returned from trip as it was sealing itself when engine warmed up & with the solid fire wall we didn't have to worry about any fumes coming into coach. So if trans runs under hump it was probably just that?, Should it get that hot? Should I have something checked???

Hi John, May sound like a stupid question but as I noticed under your shower/closet pole entry you stated you use the shower, if not using your lp water heater what are you using for hot water for shower etc? I need to take mine out to repair flooring under it. Thx, TerrieO

Thx John for all the good info is much appreciated! Terrie

Hi John, Sorry was replying & got kicked out to another pg & wouldnt let me back in for awhile! I learned a few yrs ago to cover a persons upper body with garbage bag, then use that brown packing tape you have to wet to make stick likes on boxes, to make a sewing mold specific to that persons shape, so I took foil taped it to pass side panel, smoothed out into all grooves etc, then wet & glued a couple layers of that brown packing tape over the foil leaving it pliable enough to take off rv, layed out on long table & used dowel rods the correct size to invert the grooves & hold them & molded edges where would att to wheel well & bumper as should be for drivers side, let dry over night then applied several more layers of the brown tape & clear packing tape to both front & back of mold to stiffen it up more & let dry overnight again, it's still not perfectly stiff (found that out in wind when trying to attach it to rv to take the pic), thought if Maxxfab thinks he can use it for a mold I'd try stiffening it up more by coating with either varnish or decopage glue & letting it dry again. I don't know if I'm brave enough to try fiberglassing something that big, did my cracked shower pan & bathroom sink last yr, but had trouble with the goo setting up too fast & getting glompy on me, would hate to waste $ it will cost for that much stuff, was hoping Bryan (Maxxfab) could do that part, but I'm willing to give it a try if he wants me to do it. ( I know when painting it for getting the texture of the original pc that Rustoleum makes a textured spray paint as used it as under coat on showerpan last yr & it's about same texture as the panels, trouble will be trying to match that greyish blue of top coat.) So what do ya think? TerrieO

Hey guys, will this work for a mold of the missing piece? If so, does it need to be laminated or covered with slick tape or something so the fiberglass stuff won't stick to it? TerrieO

Thanks guys, may be back for more info, didn't check it yet as got side tracked making a mold of the rear skirt pc I'm missing, think it will work, will upload pictures under the fix-up section if Bryan thinks will work. terrieo

Hi Dan, My propane was disconnected when went to IN rally last year & elec on my dometic not working, so I just put big cake pan in bottom of fridge with couple frozen gallon jugs of water & several frozen small bottles, had meat, cheeses, drinks in it & it stayed perfectly cold for 4-5 days, kept fridge themometer in it to be sure, didn't have too add any bagged ice until last 2 days on way home, just had to dump cake pan a few times as bagged ice started to melt, used melting jugs for cold drinking water. Thats what I'll continue to do while driving until get mine fixed. For longer than weekend trips I've got a small lightweight dorm fridge I'll take along to plug in. TerrieO

My water pump pamphlet diagram shows a Check Valve connected to incoming cold water line near where it goes into the water heater, but there wasn't one on it when I took the old pipes off the water heater they just had those about 3" long straight plastic connectors that are just to stabilize the connection. Is it necessary to have it at the water heater if you have a check valve on your water hose connection to the incoming city water hookup port? Plumbing requirements in pump booklet just state "Main lines must be 1/2" in diameter & any check valves used in system must be a free flow design. " Also states "Use a Shur-flo In-Line Filter or a Shur-flo Twist-on Filter", but doesn't show these in the diagram anywhere, are the filters just optional? Sorry so many questions but want to finish water lines this weekend & don't want to screw up water heater if it isn't already (found out from 3rd party prev owner hadn't winterized anything, he inherited from parents 3 yrs before I bought it & didn't like it so just let it sit). So who knows when last winterized before I did it. Thanks for all your help! TerrieO

Hi! I have a Carefree Freedom awning manual with parts #s, if they are still in business the phone # listed on it is (303) 469-3324, if the part you need is the Gear Assembly (part #P in blowup diagram) parts #'s are for 8'-12'awning part # 060262-001, for 14'-19.5' awning is part #060264-001. If you want to email me your adress I'll mail you a copy of this manual, my scanners on the fritz so I can't upload it. Hope helps! TerrieO

I have all the appliance manuals that came with my 91 Dolphin if anyone needs copies just let me know I'd be glad to help: National RV owners manual Dolphin Micro-Mini Motorhome **(has wiring diagrams) Freedom crank out Awning 8'-19.5' owners manual with parts list hydro flame corps Everest Star furnace 79/80 series models FA-7920, 7916, 7912 & HF-8012 operation, maintenance & svc ctr list Emerson Quiet Kool roof moun A/C Model #EKQ700 installation & parts manual, use/care guide, service centers booklet Dometic LP/Elec Fridge Models #RM2401 & RM2501 spare parts list & wiring diagram, vent systems list & wiring diagram for models RM 2301, 2401, 2501, 2601, 2603, 2801, 2803, 3601, 3801, 4801 and service center booklet, installation & operation instx booklet for RM 2301,2401,2501,2601,2801. Atwood gas water heaters, 6 gallon, models G6A-6, GH6-6, G4-6, GH6-6E, G6A-6E,GCH6-6E, GC6A-6, G6A-6P installation, operation & maintenance Winegard RV antenna models,RV-2000, 3000, 6600 (75 OHM) (RVH-20KA, RVH-30A) installation & operating manual Wedgewood Ranges no model # stated on booklet (mine is R-1745) install, operation, maintenance, & parts list Shurflo water pump Model Series 2088 installation manual I also have a manual someone can have original of as microwave was not in RV when I purchased it, it is for a Sears Kenmore Microwave oven stock #89524 prev owner did not fill in blank for model # & is not listed on booklet, from picture it has digitaI display, turntable, 120V, 10.5Amps, power output 650W, wattage consumption 1150W, no date on booklet but it looked fairly new & a microwave was not on original appliance list invoice from National RV. I'd be happy to send anyone that needs them copies TerrieO

Bryan, I found the cap to the awning (along with a big round thing with 2 bolt holes in it & Toyota symbol on it, think was off spare tire holder) in under seat storage near door, tire place must have put them there as they weren't there when left on trip as I had cleaned that out & stored other stuff in there before trip. Also sent you a direct e-mail earlier this week on another broken thing found in rear, please advise if you didn't rec it & I'll resend. Also, if I anchor that piece of plastic siding down good that I had put on to protect holding tanks for winter & tighten any loose braces is it OK to go ahead & take this out on the road? Need to use it and find any other bugs I need to work on before rally trip in July.

****Should there be low drains under the couch than just the one coming from the holding tank?**** The only drain valve I can find under the couch is a pc of that flexible white tubing like is used for sink or toilet water lines, it comes directly off side of holding tank at floor level & goes thru the floor to the drain handle on the side of the coach, then they have same type of line T'd off of that pc going to the water pump , coming out the other side of the water pump is the old grey line, (a few inches from the pump it T's to the wall to the outside water hookup), then runs under the elec converter then under sink, furnace & into water heater compartment, I didn't replace any of the grey line until water heater compartment as (knock on wood) it wasn't leaking yet, BUT I could not find any other drains under the couch, ***Should there be?*** The 2 low level drains in water heater compartment were little T shaped handles that you have to pull up on were up against the wall by the shower pipes that were leaking, & I couldn't tell if they were leaking also so I had tried to replace them with pex pipe & fittings but the valves I could get are too large & both won't fit in that tiny place right (won't leave room for line to water heater which I hadn't got to yet when I prev posted above respnse) so I'm going to go back to the original drain valves (I kept them) & if I left enough tubing when I cut them out & they seal OK I'm just going to use them and pray hard they don't leak.

Hi! I had to replace all water lines in bathroom & kitchen except (knock on wood) incoming line from outside & around water pump under the couch, used from Lowes the white pex tubing ($25/100 ft), & the white push on fittings (very expensive if you need very many $4-$10 ea), but was really easy to work with! For the drain valves under the oven by water heater I just T'd in a pc of pex thru floor & put a close valve on it. I had to replace the short pc of flexible hose goin from outside port to fresh water tank, naturally couldn't find the right size here, so forced the piece I could found at farm store onto it but think it leaked a little when filling tank, so if does this year I'm going to try the flexible wash machine hose, ( I refuse to take that couch out by myself again, darn near did me in!), I'm going to have my skinny neice shimmy under there. So far I've only found one drain for fresh water tank & it is on outside, I'm going out there now to check for more under the couch! Hope your repairs go good! TerrieO

Vanman, pellandent.com has a bumper end cap for states "National 1990's Dolphin" for $185., apparently from the pictures you posted I was missing both of these so didn't even know I was suposed to have them! I'm going to have a metal bumper put on that I can store sewer hose in as my dolphin only has a small round port on side about a ft deep for hose to fit in, which it won't unless I take all the fittings off! Good luck hope you find you parts!

Thx everyone, thats what I needed, your great!

Can anyone tell me what material the sides & lower trims of the 1991 Dolphin are made of? I thought was all fiberglass, but one of the companies I'm trying to find the rear lower panel at e-mailed me today asking if it was ABS plastic. The bluish grey lower trim pieces are more porous than the shinier upper siding but I thought it was all fiberglass. Anybody that knows please let me know, told the man at ortegamanufacturing.com (they were listed as buying up parts when National went under), I would find out for sure & get back to him. Thx much for any & all help. TerrieO

Vanman, sorry for delay in replying, been out of commission for little bit, I'm still searching for the rear panel, have found these other places that advertise carry parts, Pelland Ent - pellent.com & found yesterday ortegamanufacturing.com that bought surplus National RV parts, he emailed me today asking if the part is ABS plastic, I have no idea, I thought was fiberglass. Do you know? The lower bluish grey trim panels are different than the upper siding. Do you know what they are made of? Ortega doesn't think he has it but has to wait for parts mgr to get back to fond out for sure. A fiberglass fabricator near here told me can't fabricate it, I don't know what to do! Can't get insurance estimate & $ for rest of damage until I find that part! Guess I'll just have to bolt the pc of house siding back on it to protect sewer tanks to be able to go to the rally in July. Hope you are having much better luck with your repairs! TerrieO

Vanman, try this site www.themetalcompany.com , they also have fiberglass & state they can fabricate, I lost drivers side rear lower panel & bumper cap oon my 90 Dolphin when had blowout on way to rally & I had put screws in it where found open holels before we left as there was only a few little metal brads left along it but there's not much behind there to screw into and flinging rubber still took it with it. I'm waiting for reply from insurance estimator to see if they will let me use them. While waiting to get fixed I cut a spare pc of house siding into 2 pcs & attached them in place so exposed stuff would be covered for winter. Hope helps. TerrieO

Oh good, my friends sister said some things on way home that made think she had told someone off about several things she didn't like, I was mortified! Guess she was just trying a dig at me, it worked! I enjoyed getting to meet the people I got to considering my late arrival, and I thank you again for helping me when I was in such a panic as I know you were trying to get on the road yourself. Hope to make it to a rally next year with regular camping buddy & no mishaps! I'm going to have all these tires rechecked for size because Tiremart guy told me he was having the load D's sent from Indy & long valve extenders for the duals, but the 2 that I can see the info on state C's, and I couldn't find any extenders when I stopped before leaving Ship to check air, actually was missing an extender & cap from front tire, but I had extra caps with my air compressor. Will try to sell them of possible & get the D's. Haven't been on forums before this sight, Tika told me to contact her if any questions, can I reach her on the PM (personal mail?) icon on the member list? Wanted more info on the solar panels & papers I got from her not here now. Also what do I need to do to make a donation to this sight, want to help as you guys have all been great source of info? Thanks again!

My insurance agent said I would have to get estimates to give to the adjuster, but the adjustor just called & is sending an estimator to my house tomorrow am between 8-12, said they would decide damage & issue me a check, I'm going to call my agent back & see if this is right. But yes, i would like to have you look at it, because I want someone who know these small ones. When would you be available & can u give me directions from 367 alton bridge? Thx.