a2ndopinion

No, the resting fluid level is below that.

There’s a seal behind the linkage. It can be a PITA to get out, but easy to install.

I wouldn’t say that. As long as you have all of the info on what is what, I’d bet quite a few independent shops would work on it. I might have the same problem with my ‘81 Corona wagon, as it has 3rd Gen (‘82-‘85) Celica front struts that are shortened with MR2 AGX adjustable struts and 300# Summit Racing springs, an Addco Mk II Supra (‘82-‘85.5) sway bar and master cylinder, ‘87-‘88 Cressida front calipers and rotors, a Mk I (‘78-‘81) Supra rear diff (disc brakes and limited slip), aftermarket camber plates and Roll Center Adjusters…

My all original ‘97 Lexus LS400 has 453,xxx miles and still runs like a champ. I change the oil (Mobil 1) every 6,000 miles, at which point it is about a quart low. They are truly awesome engines.

The problem with a 2JZGTE is it’s two cylinders longer. The most common fix for that in Celicas, Coronas and trucks that originally had a 2xR/RE is to move the radiator to the other side of the radiator support, but that’s the advantage ot the 1UZ - just a little bit longer than the 4 cylinder. Plus the JZ uses a cast iron block, so is roughly 450 lbs, Vs 390 for the UZ and 320 for the 2xR/RE.

I should look and see if the cable for my LS400 is the same.

Any auto parts store should have the kit - gasket an a new screen. Just tell them it’s a Toyota 2WD pickup so they don’t get confused trying to find a motorhome.

If it freely came out that far, the end inside the trans must have broken off, but that’s odd, because the part it’s connected to should be spring loaded to the point that the trans would be shifting very early. The pivot is visible with the pan removed, but is a major PITA to work on while under the vehicle.

The torque converter seal and pump seal are both listed here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1991,pickup,2.4l+l4,1277861,transmission-automatic

There is, but when Kale installed the solar panels, the screws were too long, so now protrude through the ceiling by about 1/2”. I need to cut them shorter, but don’t want to lose the sealing he applied! yeah, maybe I need to give up using the “rear bunk” and just set it up as a table again - do it right the first time! Oh - and thanks for the link!

That might be a great help. Styrofoam? I’d want a porthole or two to let in some daylight though , as I don’t have a vent/skylight in the front maybe that’s something to add. Do you have a pic showing the ladder? Although I like having the “heated bed,” as do my kitties.

I looked back over the last three years and see that I apparently never posted my coach(s) or my location! I’m Bob, and live in and around the greater Portland, OR area. You can find me in a few other forums as “a2ndopinion” - the name of my business - “A Second Opinion.” My family is in and around the Beaverton area, but since moving into a Toyota mini three years ago, I’ve been all over the greater Pdx area - Oregon City, Fairview, Salem, and am just now leaving Kelso, WA for Yamhill, OR. I started out with a very good looking ‘87 Dolphin, but it developed massive water leaks, so I’ve all but abandoned it for this ‘85 Sunrader that I bought from member “Kale” a year ago. The way I understand it, he bought it midway through a rehab, so (attempted) to finish it, but he was not a carpenter, plumber, electrician or mechanic - or, as being a 15 year US Navy Seabee Construction Mechanic, I say he was not a BU, UT, CE or CM. All of the cabinet doors that he converted from opening sideways to opening up are hung crooked and he’d filled all of the latch holes with expanding foam, he took the battery out of its box and just put it in the cabinet, open with no external venting, the water pump doesn’t hold residual pressure... But he did install a larger, 3-way fridge, a bigger inverter, bigger furnace, backup camera, composting toilet ($1,000), all new shocks and brakes ($2,400), left the oil cap off and blew the engine ($2,400 fresh rebuild), nice stereo, cell/internet signal booster ($350) and more. Then reverse failed, and he gave up, and took my Grand Theft Auto stupid cheap offer. I have two A43D transmissions in storage (long story), but have decided to go a different way. My daily driver is a Lexus LS400, and is my second. I parted the first one out, and kept all of the wiring - from the headlights to the seats, engine (1UZ 4.0L all aluminum DOHC V8), and transmission (A340E). I have a friend who has an ‘87 Toyota 4Runner, which originally came with the 22RET. When he rebuilt and modified it, he converted to a W58 manual trans, so I bought the A340H trans and transfer case. I’m about to take the two transmissions to my good buddy at TransAction Transmissions in Banks, OR and get “it” rebuilt, with the Lexus brains and bellhousing, but the 4Runner t-case, and will then swap in all of the LS400 electrical and engine, and then at a future date will swap in an IFS front diff from a mid 80s P/U / 4Runner. Ill start my own thread when I do, hopefully like what’s his name (sorry) did with his 1UZ swap a few years ago. BTW, a bit about myself - I started studying mechanics in Jr high school with lawn mower/go cart/ mini bike engines, then graduated to motorcycle engines in high school - until I started driving, then it was cars, cars, cars, and I spent summer school in the auto shop, including adult education classes too. In college, I took semesters of carburation (it was a long time ago), tune up, analysis, rebuilding, machining, auto body, paint, and frame straightening. I then spent 15 years in the US Navy as a Construction Mechanic (Seabees), where I worked on everything “from lawn mowers to earth movers”. I was the second CM in the Navy to become a certified crane mechanic. After getting out, I took my ASE exams, and became certified as an ASE Master Auto Tech, Master Truck Tech, Master Machinist, and Master Autobody Specialist. I now do, and have been doing for the last 20 years, mechanical damage inspections for warranty companies, used vehicle inspections, etc, and have appeared in, and won court cases based on my mechanical knowledge. I have been working on Toyota 20/22R/REs since we bought my (ex)wife a ‘79 Celica in ‘96, and then “specialized” in them (on the side), performing a few rebuilds, many timing chains and head gaskets, and so many valve adjustments that I can now do it blindfolded, in Celicas, Coronas, pickups and motorhomes. I’ve also done a fair amount of performance mods/builds, including porting and polishing heads, choosing an appropriate cam, adding 5M throttle bodies and AFMs, and exhaust work. My “real job” also has me performing inspections on motorhomes, doing pre-purchase inspections, and mechanical damage (failed parts) inspections for warranties, so I know a considerable amount about refers, AC, 12v and 120v, inverters, converters, generators, plumbing... I don’t claim to know it all, but am definitely well versed. I am a moderator on a couple of Toyota web pages, and admin on a handful of FB pages. Due to this, and most of my friends being “car guys”, I’m constantly answering questions on FB pages, web sites, and through text messages, FB messenger and phone calls.

In my ‘85 Sunrader (21’, rear dinette), that I bought from member “Kale” last year, I’m having one hell of a time getting the dinette seat cushions laid out to make the bed smooth. Did Sunrader have a schematic to follow, or has anyone here experimented enough to get a comfortable, tight fit? I have a thick foam pad to cover all of it, but a pic of which one goes where sure would help! I’ll be sleeping on it all winter, as it’s easier to stay warm with a small electric heater under it, compared to staying warm in the over cab bunk, but when I need to access anything under it, it’s a major PITA to move everything. I’m also thinking that since I’m single and only have to share it with “my boys” (cats), maybe I can divide it so I’m only using the front portion, maybe 1/2 +-? I've also discovered that the dinette table top really needs to be reworked, with hinges or some sort of latching system so it is easier to get around when it’s up, but properly sit on the frame when lowered to be a bed. I did find last winter that corregated cardboard wedged between the cushions and the walls worked out great to keep them warmer to the touch when temps dropped into the 20s!

I have a good friend who is a Lexus tech, and a Toyota fanatic like me. He has a 2nd gen 4Runner with a 5M in it, and is getting ready for a 1UZ swap. He's a whiz with this stuff, so although his is the next newer gen, and is 4x4, I'm gleaning as much as I can from him. I'll make a thread here when I get around to it (or is that a round tuit?).

That might work! Thanks!