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Bryan

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  1. Whenever I have this problem, I get toothpicks and break em' off inside inside the hole until it's completely filled in. Now you have a good surface for the screw to bite into again. Good as new.
  2. Here goes the pinstriping or fine line tape I'm going to use: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Plastic-Striping-Tape-Car/dp/B002MOL1O6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1329872244&sr=8-2 And the 3M decal stripe off wheel: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Stripe-Wheel-07498-Hardware/dp/B00063VT0G/ref=pd_sim_auto_1
  3. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3891&st=0&p=21737&hl=+warrior%20+pics&fromsearch=1entry21737 This is kinda what I was talking about, I just wasn't looking hard enough. My plan is to zoom in on the warrior decal print it out and have the good people at Officemax or Kinkos enlarge it to the exact size I need. This could then be used as my stencil when applying the pinstripe tape. I never tried this before but sounds like a good idea ... Right?
  4. WME Thanks for the quick reply. That website looks pretty cool for someone looking to replace the vinyl decals, but I'm looking to use pinstriping tape make an outline and paint on new ones. I think I can handle making the straight broad lines with the tape but I need a image of where it says "Warrior" on both sides of the camper towards the rear. I would resize the image and use it as a stencil to transfer it onto camper. Here are some pics.
  5. I was thinking about doing the same thing with my 91' Warrior. My decals have already been removed using the 3M decal stripe off wheel which worked great. I contacted Winnebago about buying new decals but they informed me that they sell all their old stock to another company called Mobility RV (WinnebagoParts.com). To say that Mobility Rv provides crappy customer service would be an understatement. When I talked to there "customer service" person she told me the decals are handled by a guy named Brian and she would leave a message with him to call me back. It took him about 3 weeks to email a hand sketched drawing of the decals with prices skribbled in. They didn't even have all of them and the 90% they did have would have cost me $350-400. If the service was better and if they had the whole set I would have bit the bullet and paid that crazy amount, but I have to go a different route now. I ordered some fine line striping tape from Amazon. I can see where the decals used to be clear as day because that's the only part that is not oxidized. I plan on taping it out and using foam roller to apply thinned out tinted rustoleum. The only part I can't figure out is how to do is where it says Warrior at the rear, I think I need an image of "Warrior" same font as old of course to use as a stencil, but I can't find any good straight on shots anywhere. Does anybody have an image or know where to look for one?
  6. I noticed that some of the outside corners on my 90' winny are looking pretty rough. Is there a product that can be reccomended, I saw that Butyl tape was mentioned for sealing windows and vents but what about where the outside corners meet. Is there some type of caulk that is used. Also can I get new trim for the outside corners like where the cabover sides and front meet. This area looks the worst and I think i might need a whole new piece of trim to make it look nice. I'll try to get some pics up to better describe the issue.
  7. I ordered mine from 3 T's also as that was the brand my toy had originally. I had the kit for about a month before I screwed up the courage to install them. The lady I spoke to on the phone told me "you have to buy the whole kit" (2 airbags with mounts and air lines). They must have had problems with people only buying the bags, installing them with the old airlines and still having leaks. Makes sense to me why would I go through all the trouble of installing these things just to have old stuff still in the mix. What I didn't like about 3 T's was they claim they're giving you a brand new kit, but in the instructions you're told to use the old mounting hardware (nuts and bolts) the old ones were so corroded I had to buy new ones. But this was only a 30 minute detour to the hardware store to buy new nuts and bolts. I am not a mechanic but I gave it my best shot. It took me the better part of 2 days to install them, but I'm happy I did it.
  8. Have you given any thought to a small hybrid travel trailer? A 17' or 19' trailer could easily be towed with a cargo or conversion van for your vacations and stored fairly easy when not in use and you won't have to haul around a house to job sites.
  9. Krilov, Don't know if you came up with a solution yet but this is what I did http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3693 I had the same problem only took a few hours to fix. Best part is it didn't change anything cosmetically and you won't have to suck dirty rain water through a tube... YUK!
  10. Toybox, If the roof sag returns my next step will be remove the ceiling inside and use angle iron fore and aft (I like WME's terminology) of the a/c. WME, that ain't a bad idea either, especially if you have puddling across the length of the roof. I would suggest you taper the end to be driven in to make it slide through easier. A palm sander should do the trick.
  11. Since I've done the repair we had two heavy downpours here in Philadelphia and not a drop inside. Where I used to have puddling around the a/c, now it just runs off like it should.
  12. New gasket $14, 2'x4' piece of ply $8, having a dry head... Priceless!
  13. When I bought my toy I noticed a leak around the coach air conditioner when it rained. The weight of the a/c made the roof sag enough that the rainwater would puddle around the gasket. I put a tarp over it while I researched on how to fix this problem. I found this site that had a pretty good idea- http://blog.rv.net/2...inking-rv-roof/ -Amazon shipped a new gasket to my house in about 2 days.I picked some 3/4" ply and got to work. When I removed the a/c I quickly realized that jamming a 3/4" piece of plywood between my metal roof and foam insulation would probably tear the metal as its pretty thin. Not wanting to do more harm then good I decided to use 1/4" ply cut into strips (3"x12" for the front and sides and 3"x18" for the rear) and gradually build it up. My painters tool did a pretty job of making a purchase point between the layers (separating from the glue). I then proceeded to tap the strips in with a rubber mallet one at a time nice and easy like. This part took a little while cause I was being extra careful and was constantly checking with my four foot level to see how much further I needed to go. Being sure that I no longer had a sag I applied the gasket to the a/c and carefully positioned it back in its home. This part required two people- one up top and one inside to get it aligned right. I think the hardest part was getting the bolts back in as the top and bottom of the a/c need to be lined up perfect to keep from cross threading the bolts. I took a few pics hopefully they can illustrate a little better then my words.
  14. That guy is my hero. F-ING Awesome! I think I might burn the walmart song to a cd.
  15. Got the pics up today. I'm very happy with it. The truck runs great, and the house is solid just needs some cosmetics such as: 1) Rip up the carpet and put down some of that vinyl wood stuff down. 2) Caulk the little screw holes that were made over the years and paint the whole interior. 3) Remove previous owners "custom" table and make new one of proper size. 4) Make new or buy new curtains for windows. 5) Get new mattress for over cab 6) And last but not least I need to figure out how to get that black stuff off the sides of it. The previous owner didn't like the uniform color and sleek decals that Winnebago provided so they put blue contact paper on it. Most of the contact paper has been removed leaving behind the glue residue. You can still see his handywork on the front of the cabover. I'm thinking maybe some type of acetone or something (don't want to hurt the fiberglass). My daughters are fired up now about taking our new "house" on the road.
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