diana

http://www.harborfre...-kit-90599.html anyone using these? i have someone who wants to install this set on the RV roof (fyi, i want them flat, flush, tho know it is a real disadvantage for solar collection, is a real advantage for not falling off the roof while rotating them). he'd hook'em up to 2 smaller-sized new gel batteries (do not know capacity yet that he has in mind) in line with coach battery under the hood. (not the separate starter battery). all i want is to be able to boon dock in summer without a flashlight (!), pump a little water, keep my laptop and cell charged, and, unlikely, maybe run the heater a bit. i know solar's all about crunching the numbers (power in/power out. was off the grid in my cabin for years), but in my little Toyota RV there is no way to come close to assessing, say, days camping, sun angles, hours spent reading, etc., so ball-parking is my method of choice. any advice?

First, I want to thank everyone on this site who offered me great advice and help while I was looking for my rig. I'd lost out on my first-choice deal, an 18' Sunrader, and then, last week, bought what will probably serve me better - a 22' Rogue. Glad it was only an hour drive away too, since the Sunrader purchase would have meant a trip to the Memphis, and I live in Northern California. This rig has 1984 22R with the good rear axel, standard transmission, and only 80K miles. Drives like a Cadillac. I found some dry rot, so the seller is rebuilding the cabover front. The interior woodwork, counters, sink, etc. are in great shape and looks like everything inside works, despite its age. The mechanic who checked it was very positive. I got a truly great (!) price so can afford to redo the awful carpet, upholstery and curtains, but not until we get back from mega-dusty 'Burning Man' next August. I'm pretty smitten with this rig despite it's relative lack of gelcoat and, at present, seedy interior. If my family and I use it as much as I think we will, I can always trade up later to a newer Sunrader (love them). Think now I will go read the discussion of emergency road kit contents. ;0) Will be talking to you all, Diana

thanks - good solid info!

I wonder too about settling on a 21'er since they are so easy to find, but still hoping for that shorty 18' rig. I need to drive both. I would not quibble over 18' vs 19.9'. Thanks for that tip.

Thanks to both of you for solid advice. I do see the seller's side, but still need to get more 'professional' going about this. You helped. Live and learn. Again, thanks. (This is a great board!) Derek, I need the smallest rig possible that comes with two beds. Don't need or even want a bathroom with a second sink, oven, etc. I've had mid-sized rigs and they are gas guzzlers and hard to drive, park, etc. My RV use is recreational road trips and 'camping', taking one of my grown kids or a friend along, hence the two beds, but luxury is not a priority for me. Simplicity, reliability and good design are. So... I am looking for a Sunrader 18' - a scarce commodity. Lots of 21's out there, but not 18's. Yes, Northern California but I know I will have to travel. D.

How much difference in finding parts for 20r versus 22r?

How much difference in finding parts for 20r versus 22r?

And here I thought I was all ready to get the final mechanical check up results on my dream rig and send money to escrow when someone else swept in and got it. And no, I was all over this deal and not, as granny put it, dilly dallying. So now I'm out one Car Fax and a whole lot (!) of phone calls and emails, not to mention disappointed, but at least I'm not out a plane ticket. How can I secure a future negotiation of an out of state purchase long enough to safely and wisely close a deal? (i.e., have it checked by mechanic, etc.) Or is it really just first come, first served?

Just spoke with two local smog shops and they agree with you: IF all the parts are there and working, there should be no problem. Even the worst case scenario tho does not sound too expensive so long as I can get the parts.

hmmm... looks like one more thing to figure out. thanks for the reality check. i will look into exactly what the rig needs to pass inspection. (sigh)

Ready to buy an out-of-state rig on a low mileage 1983 4 cyl Toy. I would bring it to my home state of California next June. Anyone know if I should be able get thru the smog check easy enough or should I anticipate a problem getting this rig smogged? Thanks.

thanks for the welcome. i'm in northern california. first i need to go ahead and buy the rig - can't take time off work to go see it for myself, so am hiring independent 3rd parties to go inspect it, and an escrow company to do the paperwork. not a done deal yet. definitely not a scam but still first time i have made a purchase this way. i'll go get it in june, drive it home and have work done on axle here - unless, on second thought, i could have axle replaced there. devil's always in the details... anyway am delighted i found this model; it's perfect design for me - not too small and not too big.

thanks! i'm inclined to go for the 'new' rig too. local parts dealer was quoting over 1k for just the axle, so i will give this oregon source a call. can see this is going to become a project, but hopefully a fun one.

Local mechanic who only works on Toy trucks 1974 - 88, says he is also a fabricator and therefore he thinks he could 'beef up' the 5 lug rear axle housing so it can safely carry the weight of an 18' Sunrader. Thoughts? I imagine lots of others would have tried this if it could work, and people would not still be replacing the old axels. What do I tell him?

Have a chance to buy clean 1985 18' Sunrader with only 30K miles and stored in a garage, but with the old bad axle... or a rougher 1983 with 125K miles and the replacement good axle. Which would you choose?