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trintek

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About trintek

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1977 Toyota Chinook
  • Location
    Terlingua & San Antonio, TX

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  1. 1976 - 1977 Toyota Chinook Owners Manual

    © Toyotamotorhome.org

  2. You are correct, i fired up the fridge today on propane, verified it was cooling, then shut it down as i need to clean it inside and out. May also have to do some interior plastic repair. On the plus side, it seems like all of the appliances are working. As for the driving back without brakes, I looked at it this way, it hadn't run in 5 years or so and it's only a 70 mile or so trip. Kept to access roads, had it insured before I picked it up, and had my AAA card just in case. If I had towed it back I probably wouldn't have noticed quite a few of the issues until I had spent my budget on unnecessary fixes instead of actual safety issues
  3. I managed to get the furnace running yesterday for a bit, I will probably need to take it out and clean it up a bit as I am 90% certain I barbecued a few lizards in the process. I tried to light the fridge but either the burner is clogged or there is air in the line, hooked it up to 120 but it blew the gfci, will be trying it on a non gfci outlet today as I had the same issue with another dometic fridge in the past. I believe the red plunger is the igniter, still not sure what the blue one is for. I also managed to get the pop-up open for the first time in years, lubed the guides and joints, and it now opens and closes reliably. Will need to clean the fabric, do a bit of patching, and probably re-waterproof it, but it looks relatively complete. Thanks for the head's up on speed, I'll just treat it like my old granny geared f350, stay in the slow lane and plan on at least a 10 hour trip when i take it back out west. While I was digging through everything yesterday I found the 1977 toyota pickup owner's manual and the 1977 owner's guide, unfortunately I didn't find the chinook owner's manual in with the rest.
  4. nhcamper: thanks much! I managed to go through the camper a bit today and found a load of new spare parts, so will probably be installing many of them after the holidays. Included were a new front main seal and oil pump gasket, two thermostats and gaskets, 1 belt, a gasket that i haven't figured out yet (may be windshield), distributor cap and rotor, new heater core, radiator fan, clutch master cylinder with reservoir, and some other odds and ends. Now to an itemized reply 1) any idea what the top speed was/is? I brought it back to san antonio at around 45mph as it was leaking oil badly and spraying coolant (no recovery tank), I have a new recovery tank and will hopefully fix the oil leak by replacing the front main seal, etc once the holidays are over. 2) water pump seems fine on mine, but i may replace it with a reman unit when i do the thermostat and flush, the only other main thing besides the oil leak is, I drove it back with no brakes.. Used the e-brake and downshifting, so I plan on flushing all the lines and checking it again after that, will probably do it when i start replacing all the gear oil and grease. 3) on the converter switch, is top depressed 120v or 12v? mine isn't marked unfortunately, I believe I have another converter sitting in the garage and may just replace the existing one, but would like to keep it if it is working. 4) it looks like everything is disconnected on the coach battery side, but i will double check and make sure nothing is contacting ground. Now to be sure, the furnace is propane only with no electrical connections and needs to be lit with a match or similar, correct? I am used to forced air furnaces, and haven't messed with one like this yet. Any chance you have a model number or manual for the furnace? The dometic fridge is slightly off from what i am used to, I have never messed with one that actually had a freezer box. I believe the model (judging by the parts manual I have) is an rm211, I am going to mess with it tonight or tomorrow and see if it is still working or if i need to pull it and service it. At the moment I have no cabin lights, will have to repair and replace some fixtures. Thanks for the head's up on the ground issue, my old jeep had a similar issue, will probably grab some 8 gauge jumper cables to cut up and fab new grounds out of. The front spare idea isn't bad at all, I was considering mounting mine on the hood just to have it easily accessible. As for the door... heh... I am hoping that I can just cut some plywood to fit the entryway, epoxy coat it, then use some straps to slowly pull the back edge back into shape, once in shape I will secure it to the new entry floor and hopefully all will be well. Once again, thanks much! This will be the first vehicle I actually plan on keeping, usually I buy a project and keep it for a couple of years, then sell it for the next project. In the end though, I have always wanted a small rv so I can spend more time in the places I love. I am hoping that I will hang on to this one for the next 20-30 years. Of course I may take it apart and put it on a 4x4 chassis if i find one for the right price
  5. I am working on rebuilding a 1977 toyota chinook, now i believe this is a chinook concourse but am unsure as it came with no manuals. On to the questions: 1) I believe the fridge/freezer is a dometic cm211/rm211, the 12v/off/120v switch on the back turns fine, but it also turns the part marked 12v/off/120v. The knob seems to be red pointed selector knob, but as it turns the plate with the markings as well, no clue what does what. If someone has one of these and can verify, what position is what? ie: does counterclockwise all the way = 12v, clockwise all the way = 120v, and center = off? Also looking for the operator manual on this one. 2) The range is a vitreo safari, I think the model is 43-26, I have 1 of the 2 burners working on it. Any chance someone knows where to find a copy of the manual for it (service manual or basic disassembly, etc)? 3) I have no clue what the furnace is, it is marked as 4200 btu and does not seem to have an electrical connection, the thermostat is built in. I also did not notice a striker or push button ignition, so am assuming it is full manual and no forced air. Any info on that would be appreciated. I assume I need to push in the switch, then light the pilot with a match? 4) Last but not least, the converter panel is a pcm 15ck, I have no info on this at all. My main questions are... when plugged in do I have 120v power at all times, or do I need to flip a switch? There is a switch on the unit but it is not marked 12/120, so i guess my main question is, does the converter give 120v at all times when hooked up, or only when the switch is in the 120 position (which i am not sure if 120 is top depressed or bottom depressed)? thanks in advance for any help, trin
  6. Okies I will need to do some more investigating on the latch issue then, glad I wasn't going above 45 the entire way back. My hazard switch is in the same location, left side next to the running/driving light switch, hazards work fine, turn signals are out. Not sure if they are on a separate flasher relay, or if the switch itself is at fault, I am hesitant to suspect the switch since the high/low selector works fine. I'm going to get some pictures tomorrow before I start work on it. It's in rough condition, but only has 70,000 miles on the odo (working odo) and I managed to pick it up for $500. Doesn't get too much better than that.
  7. My last (might be stupid) question for now, the glove box has a warning to secure the "5 straps" for the popup before moving the vehicle... would these be the locking straps on the inside, or am I missing something? A similar model year vehicle I looked at had external straps, so wasn't sure if that one was modified or not. Mine seems to have 5 or more locking straps and 5-10 button straps to pick up the slack.
  8. Hey all, I have been lurking for a bit and reading through things as I have time. I just picked up a 1977 toyota chinook, it needs quite a bit of work and had not been moved in at least 5 years. I managed to get it from south Austin to San Antonio with only 1 blow out and a top speed of 45 while blowing oil and coolant everywhere. I picked up a coolant recovery tank and will be installing that soon, so here are the questions: 1) 1977 with a 20r engine and manual transmission, is this a 4 speed or 5 speed transmission? 2) The oil leak looks to be the front main seal. How involved is replacing it, and should I get one of the kits (front main seal, oil pump o-ring, harmonic balancer repair sleeve) and do them all at once? 3) It looks like everything on the 'house battery' side is disconnected, does anyone have a wiring diagram for this area? 4) The left hand gauge section is... well... deadish.. charge light is on (but main battery seems to be maintaining charge, could this be caused by the disconnected house battery wiring?), oil light is on dim, fuel gauge doesn't move, temp gauge doesn't move.. High/Low beam indicator works! Are there any common issues that could effect that area (ie: common ground), or should I start replacing the senders and wiring. 5) Turn signals are dead, no manual, any idea where the flasher is located for it? All fuses check out, so I am at least partially sure it isn't the fuse. Amazingly enough the thing still had propane in the tank, so far I have only checked the range, 1 of the burners works, will be plugging the converter in tomorrow and testing the fridge and furnace, taking the range out to clean it and fix the dead burner, and hopefully will get the coolant recovery tank mounted. There are other issues, it sat on a flat tire for 5 years, so the passenger side of the house is a bit out of alignment, door is out of alignment, rear entryway is rotted out and needs to be replaced, etc. I also need to find or fabricate the rod to lower the spare tire.
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