waiter

On a lot of EFI vehicles, the fuel pump will cycle for about three seconds after the ignition key is turned on, even if there is no attempt to start. Toyota does it a little different. IT must see the attempt to start, and more specifically, it must see air flow thru the Mass Flow Sensor before the Fuel Pump Cutoff Relay is energized to run the fuel pump. The Mass Flow sensor must detect air flow (the engine cranking). When it sees airflow, a set of contacts in the sensor energizes the Fuel Cutoff relay for about 3 seconds. If the engine starts successfully, the ECM sees the increase in RPM and tells the fuel pump cutoff relay to stay energized. Again, the jumper on the test connector bypasses all this and runs the fuel pump directly. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Take a look at my post, there are photos of some of these items. redo the brown wires now, just loosen and retighten the bolt a couple times to dig in and get a good connection. Fuel pump cutoff relay is up behind the speaker on the passenger side dash. ECM is on the passenger side kick panel down near the floor. Check the fuel pump with a test jumper 1st. also carry a can of carb cleaner to test for that. Jhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Use a small paperclip and bend it for the "test" connector. You need to turn the ignition to "on". You should be able to hear the pump running, you may need to get down and listen at the tank. You should also be able to hear the fuel flowing thru the regulator, again, listen carefully. The Fuel Cutoff relay is what controls the fuel pump. Its controlled by the ECM and the Mass flow sensor. The test jumper bypass a all this and forces the pump to run. ANOTHER THOUGHT - You installed a custom fuel tank. This probably required a modification to the fuel pump mount. Could that mount have broken and the pump is sucking air. Disconnect the fuel return line and place it in a container so you can see the fuel. if you see a lot of air bubbles (you shouldn't see any) then this could be your problem. JOhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Since its running then just simple quits, and doesn't want to restart for a while. If it consistently is hard to start after the stall, I can give you a couple troubleshooting ideas. I assume from the symptoms that there are no vacuum leaks and all the hoses are OK. There would appear to be one of two problems, fuel or ignition. Do these immediately when it becomes hard to start. a) Fuel pump test - jumper the test connector and force the fuel pump to run. (under hood, right side fender). If it starts right up, you could have a problem with either the Mass Flow Sensor, the Fuel cutoff relay, or the ECM not telling the fuel pump to run. b ) Remove the vacuum hose shown in the photo.. Have someone try and start it while you spray "Carb Cleaner" in the port. You'll need to work the throttle and keep spraying. if it keeps running as long as you keep spraying, you have a fuel delivery problem. Possible problem: Fuel pump not running, fuel injectors not opening. fuel pressure not good. c) Basic check of Fuel Injector and Ignition. Remove the connector from the Mass Flow Sensor. Jumper the fuel pump on the test connector. Vehicle should start and idle. (won't run at high speeds but should idle). This tells you that the Fuel injectors are OK and the fuel system seems to be OK. The plug on the mass flow sensor has a small metal clip, use a small screwdriver or knife to move the clip back so you can remove the connector. The Throttle Position has a similar connector. d) Check the brown wires on the intake manifold bolts. Loosen and re-tighten the screw a couple times. These are the ground wires for the fuel injectors and these come from the ECM. if these grounds are intermittent or flaky, it will cause the problem your having. e) ECM relay could cause this, Fuel Injector resistor could cause this. You'll need a voltmeter to check these two items. f) You can test for fuel flow by disconnecting the fuel return hose at the fuel tank. put the return hose in a container, jump the test connector and place the key in the run position. The pump should run and you'll see fuel coming from the return line. I suspect at least a cup a minute would be OK. JOhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

IPO; set them at 50psi. What tires are they, make and model? john mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

We had a couple "close calls" with warning. :-) John

You can buy an air fitting that connects to the city water connection and do similar. I would caution to keep the air pressure below 30 psi so as not to damage any valves, fitting, etc. After blowing out the system, remove the air, open all the faucets, and then open the low point drains to drain any remaining water. Here is a link on how I do mine with an aftermarket air fitting. READ HERE ALSO, consider there will be water in the lines that feed the water pump. Also,the water heater has loops of copper tubing that may not get completely drained. I would recommend, after blowing the water out, dump 2 gallons in the fresh tank, then run the water pump and turn on the farthest cold water faucet. In my Dolphin, the farthest cold water item is the toilet. I turn it on until I see pink. Then I simple turn on each cold facet until I see pink come out. If you do not use your water heater, I would recommend bypassing it. But make sure you winterize it before bypassing, that way it will have a little antifreeze in the bottom of those copper loops. this will prevent freezing AND corrosion. Then either make a bypass hose or buy one, Here is how I bypassed my water heater READ HERE After the water heater is bypassed, you can winterize the hot water the same as the cold water. simply turn on the farthest hot faucet and wait until you see pink, Water System Drains - After you've shot rv antifreeze thru hot and cold lines, open all the water valves and open the low point drains. Close the drains (so bugs won't camp out for the winter) and facets for the winter. There are drain "P" traps in the Kitchen and bathroom sink, After I winterize the hot and cold, I dump a cup of RV antifreeze into each sink to make sure the P traps have antifreeze in them. Drain both the black and gray tanks. Then dump a cup of antifreeze into the toilet (black tank) and the shower (gray tank) I open the toilet flush valve to allow the antifreeze into the black tank. i then dump a 1/2 cup into the toilet and it just sits there all winter. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Throttle Position check OK, voltage measurement on the ECM, all were in the normal range The Factory Service Manual has a very good troubleshooting section that includes how to test components, and also normal readings you should see in the different sensors and ECM. I drove around today, got brave and shut it off for gas, restaurant, store, etc. it restated no problems. ran with no problems. It looks like the problem was the ECM. This is very unusual and stumped several long time Toyota people. With that said, If you ever have a similar problem, there are a lot more common faults that will cause this problem. The most common in order of cost/probability from Toyota techs; 1) broken, air leak, intake hose or vacuum hose. 2) EGR stuck open, leaking 3) Brown Injector electrical ground return wires on Intake manifold - corroded, bad connections. 4) Cutoff Relay not turning on fuel pump. Can be bypassed on test connector. 5) ECM power relay. 6) Mass flow sensor - (not turning on fuel pump, again, this can be bypassed at test connector. 7) Fuel filter blockage 8) Fuel pump defective 9) Fuel Pressure Regulator John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Replaced the fuel pump. there was no difference. Putting the tank back in is a real pain in the butt, mainly getting the hoses to connect to the tank. The truck started and ran great, I drove it for about 15 minutes. However, when I shut it off, It reverted back to the same problem again, it would start, then stall out. ECM - I bought an ECM on E-bay for $60, match the part number with my original ECM. The truck started, and drove OK, I shut it off, and it restarted OK. I've since restarted it 15 -20 times, and it has started every time. This is starting to look promising. I'm getting the courage to take it to the gas station for gas, and shut it off. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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As Linda said, thats about what I run. 55 in front 60-65 in rear. ALSO, make sure the air bags have at least 20 lbs. This keeps them from folding in on themselves and pinching. JOhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

The problem is, how far down from the top of the exterior frame should you drill the hole. The safest way to do it would be to remove the glass from the frame, measure how far down, then drill the hole so its at or near the bottom of that trough. I believe that's what your asking me, and I don't know the answer John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Mason, Look very carefully at your frame on the outside, it is different than mine. On my frame, The window sticks out about 3/8 of an inch from the mounting lip of the frame. I drilled the hole on the bottom of the frame. It appears as if yours is flush (viewed from outside) JOhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Mason, You frame is different than mine. I suspect you need to pull the entire frame out and reseal the frame. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Mike, Thanks, We've been thru all the easy and obvious stuff, so now its almost down to simply guessing and throwing a couple more parts at it (Fuel pump and ECM) As for towing, if you have an Auto, if you were towing a short distance, a couple miles, and at slow speeds, I would say your OK. Think about the thread on this forum regarding the aft transmission bearing. The engine must be running to lubricate these bearings, and the rest of the tranny. YES - You MUST remove the drive shaft. This takes about 15 minutes, need 2 14mm wrenches. The drive shaft is split, so its easy to just remove the aft shaft on both ends. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

When I get the new pump installed, I'll do a timed fill . i.e. on the return line, see how long it takes to fill a 1 pint container. I had flow on the return line, but nothing to compare it to. I would guess there was more than enough to run the engine. JOhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Tank is out, new pump is on order. The tank came out very easy. about 30 minute job after the gas was drained. I disconnected the supply line and ran the pump to get the fuel out of the tank. It had a good stream, so I'm not betting money on it being the pump. The inside of the tank was very clean, (like new). the sock filter was absolutely clean. I did find the source of occasional gas smell right after fill up. it was the connection where the filler hose connects to the fuel tank. very loose. I'll replace the filler and vent hoses when I put it back together. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Linda, et al; It will start, run for a second then die. Here is what has been done: Carefully inspect for vacuum hose cracks / breaks, intake hose cracks / broken (about a bazillion times) Jumper test connector to bypass Circuit Open Relay and ECM control of Fuel pump. Fuel Filter and Regulator been replaced. Good flow of fuel returning to tank (regulator return, so know pump is doing good job) Replaced Mass Flow sensor ( I don't think there was anything wrong, but shop replaced) Fuel Injector ground connections on intake manifold reworked (brown wires) Good spray pattern and quantity on cold start injector. (remove from plenum and observed) Throttle position sensor OK. Voltage checks at ECM appear normal, sensor inputs, ignition inputs If I squirt carb cleaner in the throttle body, it will start and run, as long as I keep squirting carb cleaner. (i.e. its not getting fuel) Two observations 1) LIMP MODE - jump fuel pump and remove mass flow sensor. starts and idles OK. This test basic fuel, ignition circuits. 2) Has run twice. Wierd, on two occasions over hte last week, it started, ran great, no problems. shut it off, would not restart,- back to the same problem. At this point, the only thing in the control circuits that hasn't been replaced is the ECM. I just bought one on E-bay.. This has several Toyota mechanics stumped....... John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

To make a long story short. Toyhouse broke down in North Carolina. Got towed into shop, shop had it for 4 days. could not fix. On Friday, I said that's it, I'm out of time and money, so I rented a U-Haul and Dolly and towed it back to Ohio (700 miles). TOWING INFO - Tell U-Haul its a 88 Toyota Pickup super cab. Don't use the transporter (the trailer) - You need the dolly. Tow it with at least a 14ft U-Haul truck. Has plenty of power, towed good, got about 8 MPG. Inflate the air bags to 100psi to get the back end up as high as it will go. You need to get the ,back end up as high as it will go. I'm not sure how you would do this if you don't have air bags. When towin with the dolly, watch out for any steep curbs or driveways. I'd stick to large truckstops for your fuel stops. Remember a large turning radius, no sharp turns, and no backing up, so plan ahead, don't get booby trapped into dead end or small turning radius places. Troubleshooting Info I use jumper to bypass fuel cutout relay. Makes it so the fuel pump runs all the time. This should be the very first thing to do in the troubleshooting process. Fuel pressure regulator replaced, fuel filter replaced, Mass Airflow sensor replaced. I've checked everything I can think of. Anyone have any ideas? (I just ordered an ECM off of E-Bay) John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Valves in upside down. JOhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

This is a diagram for an 88. I'm surprised the horn doesn't go thru a relay, but according to this, its doesn't. Horns are usually wired hot on one side, and then you supply a ground to honk it. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Here's the one I believe is posted on the Yahoo site. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto LP Tank non-OPD Label.pdf

Yah, I seen that and was seriously looking at putting it on the inside of the door that's below the oven. I would need to move the propane lines so the heater would not hit them. Then make a small latch so the door cannot be accidentally closed. Then I said the heck with it, just make a 8 ft hose and then move it to the floor or on top of the stove. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

The older tanks are exempt from the Over Fill Protection (OFP) requirement. I carry the "Exempt" letter with me, but have never had to show it. This grandfathers all older horizontal tanks from the OFP valve requirement. Ive never had anyone refuse to fill my tank. The inspection is just a simple "not rusted out and doesn't leak" visual inspection. They put a little sticker on mine that has since fallen off, cost $5, and again, no-one has ever asked for it. Keep in mind, you cannot use a horiz tank vertically, it must be on its side with the correct orientation. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto

I added a valve and hose to my Toyhouse. I couldn't find anywhere I felt safe mounting the WAVE 3 heater, so I simply place it on the floor at night, and set it on top of the stove during the day. I tried two heaters, a WAVE 3 and a Mr Buddy. Although I like the WAVE 3 more, it only puts out 3k BTU, and the Mr Buddy can put out 9k BTU, so I use the Mr Buddy. I Like the WAVE 3 better, its a Catalytic heater and about 90% of its heat is infrared (radiated) Very little heat comes out the top of the unit. The Mr Buddy is a regular combustion ceramic heater, about 1/2 the heat is radiated and the rest comes out the top. You need to be a lot more aware of whats above the Mr Buddy than the WAVE 3. Your WAVE 6 is a 6k BTU unit, Its a little bigger than a 3. I think it would do a good job. LIke I say, the reason I like the Mr Buddy is mainly the higher BTU ratings. My concern is something dropping something on top of the heater i.e. a towel or clothing, Look around and make sure nothing can fall on the heater. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4328 John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto