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waiter

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by waiter

  1. Darrel, Check to see if your unit has a "Gain" adjustment.. Not enough "gain" will cause the experience you're seeing (slow response). Having too much "gain" can cause the servo to "pump" the gas pedal, i.e respond too fast. As for vacuum servo, when the gas pedal is on the floor, there is no vacuum, so therefore, no cruise control. John Mc
  2. I believe you'll want to look for an electric servo, The one Derek linked to has a vacuum servo, the part that moves the gas pedal. John Mc
  3. GONE - Sold to a person Vermont. John Mc
  4. SInce Stamar invited anyone to lookup the data, I took him up on the offer. ( I do this BSFC calculation two or three times a day for aircraft fuel usage) Assume you are driving down the road at 60 miles per hour, and to keep the math simple, you get 15 miles per gallon, If you cover 60 miles in that one hour, and you get 15 MPG, you will burn 4 gallons in that hour. While your running down the road - you have your exterior driving lights on (clearance / tail lights). Questions: 1) What impact does this have on fuel economy if you have regular bulbs? 2) What impact does it have if you have LED bulbs? ****************************** 746 watts per HP exterior bulbs draws (excluding headlights) about 10 amp, so thats about 120 watts (LEDs draw about 1/5th that, so about 20 watts Converting that to HP (HP = watts /746) >> Bulb = 0.16 HP >> LED = 0.026 HP Using the Brake Static Fuel Consumption (BSFC) of 0.36 lbs per HP per Hour, and Gasoline weighs about 6lbs per gallon. Gasoline usages (one hour) for Bulb = 0.057 lbs = (0.0095 Gallon / hour ) >> LED = 0.00936 lbs = (0.00156 Gallon / hour) In our initial Assumptions, we said we burned 4 gallons in one hour, No Lights = 4 gallons in one hour (15 mpg) Bulb = 4.0095 gallons in one hour (14.965 mpg) thats a 0.035 mpg difference LED = 4.00156 gallons in one hour (14.994 mpg) thats a 0.006 mpg difference By converting your Bulbs to LEDs, this will get you a 0.029 mpg difference. WHY WOULD YOU CONVERT TO LEDs Conversion to LED lamps should be considered, not to conserved fuel, but to conserved battery / alternator / charging system capacity, not only in the coach, but on the exterior running lights. A standard Toyota has a 55 amp alternator. The exterior running lights require about 10 - 12 amp. (headlamps are about 10 amps) by converting the driving lights to LED, this can reduce their consumption down to about 2 amps, thus freeing up 8 amps of alternator capacity. JOhn Mc
  5. As other have said, Odds are very good, they simply need to be adjusted. I recommend before going to the troble of adjusting, you may wish to remove the rear axles, inspect the brake shoes, and repack the bearings. Technique - When we delivered our Toyhouse to the new owner in Vermont, we had to drive up an icy switch-back road. I found on several turns I could not apply the brakes and turn the wheel at the same time, as the front brakes would lock up and we would slide. In this case, (we were driving very, very slowly) I used the parking brake and did not touch the brakes. John Mc
  6. I think the V6 is different than the 4 banger - the 4 banger has a true 4th gear but no torque converter lockout.. I believe the 6 banger has an Torque converter lockout, but no 4th gear John Mc
  7. ^^ I did the same, 3/8 foam self adhesive strip around the door frame. Shut that noise up. JOhn Mc
  8. $140 is about the cheapest I've seen them. http://www.propanetankstore.com/shop/20-lb-5-gallon-horizontal-tank-cylinder-with-gauge/ John Mc
  9. WOW - If that fan motor works, thats great. The exact replacement motor runs about $120, ALSO - I suspect the original motor used a lower quality sintered bearing. As has been discussed on other threads, motors like this in your automobile last decades, yet the RV furnace one doesn't seem to approach any where near that reliability. Someone grab one of these and see if it works in the furnace. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto (SOLD)
  10. Maineah, He says he has spark at the coil, but not at the plugs. ALSO - If anyone ever takes their fuel rail off (i.e. service fuel injectors) I would highly recommend drilling a hole in the end ( the front), tapping it for 1/8 pipe thread, and either put a Schrader valve in it or a pipe plug. This will allow you to check fuel pressure at a later time. There is a special tool Toyota uses, you remove the fuel connector from the cold start injector and place this tool adapter in line. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto (SOLD)
  11. For those electronic buffs who want to get into the guts of the EFI on your toyhouse, check this out. DYI_pnp ECM - $425.00 They state its plug and play compatible with the toyhouse (22RE), but I think the ECM controls other stuff besides EFI. I'd need to look into this a little more, i.e. O/D control. I noted that the kit has a proto area so you could probably add things like custom O/D control circuits into the ECM. One of the huge advantages is complete access to the software, tables, etc. 1) It looks like you could get rid of the Distributor and go with an electronic waste spark system. 2) Change EFI from bank injection (all injectors fire at same time) to sequential, (only fire the injector for the cylinder needed) 3) complete access to all parameters of injection and ignition tables (WAY COOL) 4) Complete access to the software code, (I love this part) This is too cool - no longer a slave to Toyota ECMs and what they want. JOhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto
  12. You just said you have spark at the coil, but not at the plugs. How did you determine this. If the coil is generating spark, the sensor in the distributor is doing its job (this signal is sent to the coil pack and tells the coil to fire) The distributor may have been moved and isn't timed correctly, i.e. its generating a spark, but the distributor is sending it to the wrong cylinder or not sending it at all because the rotor isn't pointing to the correct cylinder for the spark to jump to. Probable causes: Bad spark wire, distributor not timed correctly, plug wires on wrong plugs, cap/rotor missing or broke. If the coil is generating the spark, it has to go somewhere, follow the path If you removed (or loosened) the distributor, it needs to be re-installed at the correct location, i.e. if you get one tooth off when re-installing the distributor, the timing will be way off, Same if you even loosen it. This procedure will get you in the ball park and it should at least start: The timing marks are very hard to see (look at the photo as a guide to find the timing indicator), when they are lined up on "0" (The scribe mark on the crankshaft lined up with the "0" on the small number plate), you'll be at Cyl #1 or #4 Top Dead Center. i.e. either #1 or #4 has just compressed, is at the top, and is getting ready to fire. (The other cylinder is also at the top, but has just completed an exhaust stroke) The only way to tell if your at #1 or #4 is to pull all the plugs, put your finger over the #1 spark plug hole and rotate the engine. you'll fell the cylinder compress air as its coming up on its firing position. This is what you want #1 at top dead center, getting ready to fire. (LITTLE TRICK) - Remove the Dist cap and set it aside. leave the rotor button on. Put your finger over the spark plug hole #1. Use caution as the rotor button will be turning as the engine is cranked. Watch the rotor button as the engine is cranked.. Your going to use the Rotor button as the indicator to identify #1 TDC crank position. Have a helper hold the gas to the floor and crank the engine. Watch the button as the engine is cranked, and observe its position when the compression blows your finger out of the hole. Once you see where the button points to, manually rotate the crankshaft to this position and line up the timing marks. You can now re-position the distributor to the correct #1 TDC position. Lets say you lucked out and #1 is ready to fire. (Engine timing always refers to #1 TDC) If you remove the cap, you should see the rotor pointing directly at where the #1 cylinder is on the cap. (This would be rough timing, it should start, but may not run very well. You'll need to use a timing light to precisely get the timing correct. Check the plug wires and firing order. OH YAH - NEVER, EVER remove the alternator without first disconnecting the battery. You could easily short out the new alternator and/or start an electrical fire if the BAT lead gets shorted to ground. JOhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto
  13. one gallon of propane has about 91,500 BTU of energy and weighs about 4.23 lbs per gallon. OR about 21,600 BTU per lb. a Mr Buddy running on low heat (mine is 3,000 BTU on low) will run about 7 hours per lb (3,000btu x 7hr = 21,000). Here are some approximate numbers, you can use these to calculate approximate usage; Mr Buddy = 9,000 / 3,000 BTU Stove top = 7,200 / 5,800 BTU Furnace = 18,000 BTU Frig = 1,000 BTU CO ALARM - These cost about $25 (WALMART). get the kind that has the digital readout. It displays ppm of CO that its detecting. You want one of these if you plan on operating a vent-less heater. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto
  14. Heres a diagram, as you can see, if the plug to the light is unplugged, the switch cannot control the OD relay. The light comes on when the O/D is disabled. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto (SOLD)
  15. there is no fuel pressure test port on the 22RE. Did you look at the battery to make sure you re-attached all the connectors on the battery after you replaced the alternator? ALSO If you don't have it, you can download the FSM from my web site. WARNING, This is a large file (85 meg) so it could take some time. http://iflyez.com/DOWNLOAD/88_TOYOTA_TRUCK_Service_Manual.pdf John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto
  16. Check to see if the O/D dash light is unplugged, (you'll need to pull the panel out) I know it sounds wierd, but if the dash light is unplugged, you cannot control the O/D (turn it off) John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto
  17. Most of these are prewired and everything is there to install a roof unit. I think the 13,000 btu unit is probably the most famous. 9,000 should do a good job, and I'm running a 5,000 btu window unit that keeps things cool if all the windows are covered and everything is sealed up. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto
  18. ^^ everything Linda said. Normally the automatic disable kicks in around 3000 ft altitude, so if you live at a higher elevation, it won't work. ALSO - If someone accidentally left the switch or indicator unplugged on the dash board, it will not work (I did this by accident one time when I was working on the radio, and forgot to plug the OD indicator back in. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto (SOLD)
  19. ^^ Agree. If it was running OK before the alternator change, then I'd be very skeptical about something that got moved, or unplugged when the alternator got change. i.e. was the distributor removed, if so so was it reinstalled correctly, were the electrical connectors from the distributor re-connected. ALSO -I'm thinking that the IGN that feeds the Alternator and the Isolator is indeed ignition power. Did all the wires get re-connected to the battery. This is one of the more common problems. (I'd almost bet you missed one) . Also check the IGN fuse in the fuse block. John Mc 88 Doiphin 4 Auto (SOLD)
  20. SOLD - Person came over, we spent a couple hours going thru it. He put a deposit on it and will pick it up in a couple weeks.. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto (SOLD)
  21. Linda, et al, Correct, Registering an out of state car in Calif isn't any problem. Basically, all the equipment the car was manufactured with must be on the car and functional, i.e. if it was a Maryland car and was originally sold with a smog pump and cat converter, then those need to be on the car and functional in order to pass smog. Basically, if the car is in good shape, with good tuneup, it should pass the emissions portion with no problem. Check your gas cap to make sure it seals the tank. (if you hear a slight woosh when you remove the gas cap, its OK) This will be one of the tests they do, pressurize the fuel tank and make sure it doesn't leak vapor. In the old days, when there were distributors, they also required the installation of a Nox box, this was a small vacumn run computer that would retard timing under temperature and throttle conditions to reduce Nox. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto (SOLD)
  22. I tell people buying an old motorhome is worst than buying an old house. You not only need to fix the toilet and repair the roof, but you'll also replace the ujoints and repack the bearings. If you can't do the repairs and maintenance yourself, you'll pay someone else to do them, and you'll pay a fair wage for their time. I suspect I have about $12-13k in mine, 99% of that is using my labor, which of course is free. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto (For Sale)
  23. I did this for all my windows and the roof vents. makes a big difference. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto (For Sale)
  24. No, don't connect them to the terminal, just connect them to each other. This may be the reason some of your equipment doesn't work when you disconnected the battery. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto
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