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Rocinante Sunrader 88

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About Rocinante Sunrader 88

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1988 Toyota SUnrader 21'
  • Location
    Watsonville, CA

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  1. Well, I took the plunge and am moving up to a Winnebago Rialta, ten years younger than my 21' Sunrader, putting Roncinante on Craigslist in SFBay Area. It's kinda scary, as I am a lot less confident about being able to find parts for the drivetrain compared to the trusty Toyo, but here we go... If you know anyone looking for a very decent 89 Sunrader point them this way... http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/rvs/5667575893.html
  2. unless someone has upgraded the power supply .the old units if left pluged in for a long time will for a fact boil out the batterys by over chargering the the old oem units are very crude primitive constrution

  3. So if the shore power is not supposed to charge the chassis battery, I am wondering if I could just hook up a 110v relay in the engine compartment with a line from the electrical panel 110v circuit that would close to jump the two batteries whenever shore power was connected and then open again when shore power was disconnected. Has anyone tried that? BTW, I assume that the chargers in these things have a trickle function so that they won't screw up the battereis if you are hooked up to shore power long term. Is that correct?
  4. Also, I am guessing that I would want to hook that up back by the fridge where the electrical panel is? Do I then have to run a separate set of heavy gauge wires to the second battery?
  5. I am much more interested in the dual-output, isolated, marine type battery charger. What capacity do I need, and more or less what do they run? Also, I am assuming that for an 88 I need to run an exciter wire? Anything else specific that I need to know about hooking it up? Thanks a lot!
  6. Always operated more or less on the level while I had it (5 years). I replaced the cooling unit and it now works just fine. Not a terrible job, though a bit time consuming.
  7. I have an 88 Sunrader with what appears to be a solenoid-based isolator setup (little cylinder that looks like the old Ford starter solenoids, four wire). My problem is that when it sits for weeks not being used, plugged into shore power, the chassis battery will be dead and I will have to jump start the vehicle. When I check voltages, running the engine charges both chassis and house batteries, but shore power charges only the house battery. Is this how it is supposed to work? If so, is there a workaround so that shore power also charges truck battery while still maintaining isolation when disconnected? If this is not how it is supposed to work, any suggestions on troubleshooting? I should add that about two years ago I was having a problem with the chassis battery discharging overnight. I took it to an auto electric shop, which told me that my radio was discharging the battery, disconnected it, and told me that I needed a new isolator (identical in appearance to the solenoid-like one that I had had before.) The one that they sold me looked just like the old one and I hooked it up. I have since reconnected the radio and do not have the problem with the chassis battery discharging overnight, so I think that they were full of it on that, just finding the minimal current that keeps memory going in the radio. Long story short, I am pretty confident that the isolator, being pretty new, is not faulty, not to say that it is hooked up right.
  8. FYI, It is nice to have the six lug front wheels also, means that you can actually have a working spare. Early models had five lug front and rear, then they started putting on six lug rear, then six lug front and rear.
  9. I have an 88 gardner pacific Sunrader that has stick built overhead cabinets, fiberglass module bathroom. Lots of luck finding a replacement module, and I note that the 18' sunraders have a different module than the 21 footers.
  10. For the screen bumpers if you can get a hunk of high density plastic (an old cutting board?) you could make them in ten minutes on a table saw.
  11. The place to get replacement wraparound windows is Advantage RV in Vallejo. They have the molds, as the guy who runs (ran?) it used to work for Gardner Pacific, which made the Sunrader. Their number is 707-252-8188 and they make the windows on an as-needed basis.
  12. If it drains into the Gulf or Atlantic it's east coast to me. Take that, Denver!
  13. My mistake. httv://rvcoolingunit.com sells both new and rebuilt. This is a rebuilt cooling unit and they do not sell a new one for the Dometic RM 2401. Flipping the unit did no good, so I have orderd my rebuilt cooling unit. $530 counting shipping to CA, with a $100 rebate once I send the core back.
  14. Can't hurt to try, have to take it out anyway and this way I can check it before ripping out my passenger seat. Never had ammonia smell. Dead sure. I think that it has always gurgled, even when working fine, but I could be making that up. If this does not work I am going to go for an Amish cooler unit, unless folks have better suggestions. Supposed to be brand new,$430 after I pay shipping and send back core. http://rvcoolingunit.com/RM2401-Dometic-Cooling-Unit-P10906.aspx
  15. OK, got it out, have it laying on one side in the RV. Crossing my fingers.
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