RVdaytrader

After reading this topic, I went and ordered a fuel pump, strainer, and gasket to keep in yoda. Also measured and made note of where the pump is under floor. Perfect spot with nothing in the way, good 1.5 inches of space between fuel lines and floor. Always have a drill and keyhole saw with me, so no problem to cut floor. Floor has a thick carpet to hide the patch if I ever have to do this. Figure if I have one I will never need it!!

I put in a trimark T505...here is the link...click on the bar below

10.89 best price I have seen...ebay wants 12.95.....so I finally just ordered one...have been making covers from milk jugs, but they only last about a year before getting brittle and cracking and dont look as good.

There are screws on each end that screw into the side supports. They were not easy to get to on my sea breeze, but thats what held mine in place.

If you have vents with plastic frames they will crack over time and can be hard to see. I had hairline cracks in two of mine. Sealed them up and no more leak.

Hotdamn!!!...I just happen to have a complete new set of golf clubs my wife bought and never used!!...when can we make the trade???

damn...never thought of that last flat I had!....there I was digging the dirt from under the axle to fit under it.

It says 60 pounds...got good reviews tho.

man, the black tank sure looks low on that sunrader!...I know I would have lost it several times on the roads I take yoda on.

If you are talking about your horizontal LP tank, it can be recertified...cost me 5 bucks at a LP supplier.

Did you follow the break-in procedure for new gears?

Wonder why there are no interior pictures tho. Makes no sense to me, unless it IS a scam and the only pics he could take were the outside.

I wouldn't worry about tires until you have everything else done.

Worst case scenario...if you decide its not worth fixing, you can part it out and make twice what you paid. Full floating axle and tire rims alone could get you $800.

Jim...this is the response from some so-called expert when asked about "no spark" on a 3vze....more for you to read! Expert: mastertech29 replied 4 years ago. If no spark, check for power on positive terminal of ignition coil when ignition is on. If no power, either bad ignition switch, or maybe a blown fusible link or broken connection somewhere. This post has troubleshooting info for ignition switch power: I know you have already replaced these but it is part of trouble shooting a no spark problem. If there is power to the coil, possibly bad coil, bad igniter, bad signal coil in the distributor, or bad connection from the signal coil to ecu or from ecu to igniter. To check the ignition coil, make sure ignition off & disconnect all wires to coil. Between positive & neg terminals of coil should be .4 to .5 ohms (that's right - about half an ohm). Between positive terminal and high tension terminal (where cable attach's) should be between 10,200 - 13,800 ohms (10.2k -13.8k ohms) COLD. Unfortunately it's possible for a coil to pass this test but still be bad. But it's not real common. Check the resistance of all three signal coils in the distributor: they should all be 140-180 ohms cold. The green wire in the harness is the common (neg). Check for resistance between that and each of the others. (Of course, check on the wires that lead to the distributor.) Air gap between the signal rotor lobes and the signal coil projections should be .2 - .4 mm (0.008 - 0.016 in). Also try wiggling the distributor shaft side-to-side. There should be almost no movement. Check the distributor connector. Try cleaning up the igniter ground (mounting bolts). Does the check engine light come on when ignition is first turned on? If not, check for power on +B when ignition is on - that's your ecu power. If no, check EFI fuse on passenger inner fender, and IGN fuse in drivers kick. If the fuses are good and both are hot with ignition on, but no power on +B, then probably either bad EFI Main Relay or bad ignition switch. (If IGN fuse has no power when ignition on, then probably bad ignition switch (or connection to/from it); if IGN fuse has power, prob bad EFI main relay.)

You could always try an aftermarket distributor to see if thats the problem...for 46 bucks http://www.speedyracer.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1004003&gclid=COyQ9Jbsz8wCFYqPfgodtxUHpg

Lifeline AGMs ....... LIFELINE RV BATTERY BENEFITS The batteries can be charged with a 500 amp charger!....not that anyone has one!!

But I can buy some small item on Ebay and get it from China for 99 cents??....that's the part AND shipping!!

Jim...I just checked that site, was going to get them...but they want 3.99 to ship what could go in a 49 Cent stamped envelope!!

Holy crap!!...that's one big frig!!

I agree on carrying a 12 volt compressor...if you a decent one they work quite well.

Jim...I always have my toolbox with me...socket set, wrenches, plier assortment, hammer, nuts and bolts and screws, meter, etc. Weighs about 30 pounds and keep it under dinette seat. Any major repair and I would have to be towed somewhere.

Jim....didnt you just wall paper???

Dave.....using your knuckle, tap around the windows, vents, cabover area, etc. Good wood will give a sharp RAP sound, wood that is damaged will give a dull THUD sound.