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caldaq

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About caldaq

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    77 toyota chinook
  • Location
    kansas

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  1. My 77 toyota chinook 20r with a weber carb "electric choke" is getting oil in it right in the filter area it's also blowing oil smoke out the tailpipe. I recently had to limp the rv 4 miles to A friends house in 1st gear I kept an eye on the heat gauge ran the heater the whole way and it just barely got over the halfway point on the gauge. Now it intermittently runs rough missing and spluttering and dying my first thought was water in the fuel before I spotted the oil in the breather. I drained the tank left the cap off and drain plug out overnight then replaced the filter and put fresh gas in it problem stayed the same missing and all. After reading through several forum threads my thought was could the valves need adjusting could that be the problem? I was thinking it was time to rebuild the engine so if anyone knows the best selection for A full and complete rebuild kit that they could suggest it would be helpful. Also I have had a couple of good exhaust clearing backfires(right near a policeman's house) that were not fun. Also all new wires ngk plugs reverted to a coil and condenser all new points not replaced but clean compression check was uncompleted due to lack of a tool (needed really long needlenose pliers) to adequately tighten the gauge fitting in the head front cylinder 126 psi 2nd back from it 126 psi third back 125 rearmost cylinder unable to tighten fitting well but read at 60 psi. Any suggestions or comments appreciated and welcome.
  2. Awsome info thanks all, both my local tire dealers were really pushing for trailer tires saying "they'll be fine" sorry but that line is beginning to tourque me off. This info will really help out I weighed my chinook at the scrapyard and with myself and passenger it weighed 4400 lbs. Not the amount of weight I want on improper tires. Also that was without my usual gear in it while weighing it.
  3. I'll be getting the LT tires the tires on it are just barely within weight limits on the rear by 100 pounds according to the sticker in the door. The front have about 500 pounds to go before exceeding weight limits of the tires. Driving it with no additional load than myself and a passenger will be borderline unsafe a few trips with only myself to make sure it's running right will be the maximum I drive it till new correctly rated tires are installed. Thank you all for the advice and input .
  4. Thanks Derek I was going to check the listed curb weight on the door sticker and see what the tires are rated for before driving to weigh it or trailering it there just to be as safe as possible.
  5. As for camping gear and passenger weight I'd probably get generous with the amount anyway because packing lite is something I have trouble doing just because I think of everything I might need. It doesn't help that I'm the cook as well lol.
  6. I forgot that tidbit about actually weighing the nook, first chance I get I'll either drive or trailer the nook to the scrapyard to weigh it. It's only 15 or so miles one way so new car tires should be safe to get it there to weigh it unless anyone here would recommend towing it on a trailer just to be safer. And thanks for the advice about weighing it I should have remembered that.
  7. Do I need RA-08 hankook (or similar load rated) tires on a 1977 toyota chinook with a r20 4 cyl with a 4 speed? I thought I did but yall are ordering these tire 6 at a time i'd only need 5 if I bought one as a spare also. The R/V's being discussed here needing RA-08 are running dually rear ends or 4 tires on back? Sorry if this is a noob question but better safe than sorry. My nook currently has new tires on it but they are regular car tires my friends tell me they are fine to run but i'd like to get everyone here who drive chinooks or have more experience with smaller Rv's. I want to be safe and sure not to have a blowout or broken belt on a tire that "oughta be ok just run em" as i've been told. Also a question concerning blowouts on the rear of a chinook does it rip up the fiberglass wheelwells and fender area has anyone experienced a blowout and have bad damage?
  8. My favorite i'd like to put on my chinook "I'm not in heat get off my butt" it's a bit naughty but I like it.
  9. My 77 chinook actually came with an access hole cut by A previous owner who was apparently unwilling to drop the fuel tank. Yesterday the fuel pump "finally" got replaced by a couple of good friends who also trouble shot the fuel gauge sending unit that wound up having a hairline crack in a soldered electrical connection. The nook runs on it's own now and as far as we can tell the gauge is reading properly. One thing that bothered me a bit was in the kit for the fuel pump the top of tank gasket was too small, it fit on the inside of the screws not lined up with them. It seems to have sealed well though. The other thing was what to me looked like a "T" fitting above the pump that was a pressure relief valve that was stuck closed. My buddy managed to get it unstuck and working dependably with a hand operated vacuum device though. I think that valve being stuck was why I found 2 dead fuel pumps in the box of old parts as well as why the one I had in the tank when I bought the nook was bad.
  10. Can anyone help me with a feul pump part number? The parts stores I went to were not able to find anything on a 77 toyota chinook. Since it is a carburator type engine would any low pressure feul pump work?
  11. 1977 toyota chinook I'm a first time rv owner in Pittsburg kansas just bought it and I am in the process of getting it in operating condition. No picture yet of the rig but i'll try.
  12. caldaq

    Wiring diagram

    Thanks i'll look at it.
  13. Something I used when I was 16 (40 now) was a water softened bar of soap pressed to the leak leaving the whole bar on the leak it makes a fair patch until you can do a more perminate repair.
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