hellspcangel911

i would suggest getting an original ignition coil, and wires.. I've seen the after-market ones give similar problems..and check your distributor.. Make sure you arent grounding the ignition anywhere.. goodluck

A lot of good info here. Take Kim's advice to heart, its cheap and simple and will help and hurt the most. the TB setup is well described in the manual. Valve adjust is also a must have, simple to do, replace the VC gasket while youre at it, and check for cam wear. depending on the mileage its well worth it. Feel free to clean the TB as well as the Intake manifold, new gaskets and reassemble. I ran a magnacoil setup on my 22RE truck, removing the distributor, and giving the ability to fine tune the spark through the ecu.... its costly and tedious but you never have to deal with the distributor issues again. Obviously the manual trans is a better alternative, some models were also sold without Power Steering, if yours is leaking and you can muscle it, remove it. As far as intakes and exhausts, Toyota did a swell job in this regard for the stock motor. Keep the intake clean, fresh quality filter and you'll be fine. If you get a larger throttle body and/or ported head/intake then get a larger intake tube and filter... The most restrictive part of the exhaust is the Catalytic converter. Most of these RVs have the exhaust extended about 8 feet out the rear. Relocating the Cat and Muffler further down stream will improve torque with minimal sound increase. The legalities are up to you... but dont forget most air filters say "for off road use only..etc"...........

Hello, I'm in New England, I do automotive work for a small clientèle as a hobby - everything and anything, mostly extensive jobs on exotics, after the dealer had the car and still couldnt solve it...... much more soothing than yoga. Aside from working on various Toyota trucks and RVs, I've owned a few RVs, (currently a Dolphin) and loads of Toyota trucks and SUVs.... i'm not offering my services, but if you'd like I can help walk you through some of the troubleshooting, then you can bring the car to the dealer for proper replacement of parts. George

Certainly need the manual switch option, but since the whole setup was already designed for R-switching, it was worth the extra few minutes to connect it, just backing it into the front yard to load it up, having it kick in for a few seconds here and there to help guide you, its nice. As for night use, thats where it gets tricky. You want one that is rated to a low LUX, mine is .1 with autoswitching (small photometer that turns on and off the infrared bulbs that surround the camera). With just moon light you can see enough to satisfy your curiosity of if the bikes are tied down well enough, if there is an animal back there..etc. It gets interesting when you turn on the parking or reverse lights because it provides light to the rear area but the sensor still sees it as dark, so then the picture is really washed out. I would almost suggest not getting an infrared enabled camera and rely on your tail lights/parking lights and the headlights of the traffic behind you. Nice solution for the handlebar rub issue, I was going to mount something to the spare tire mount that holds the handlebars as another securing point, but for two bikes I thought it was overkill at this time. I have two wheel chucks welded up with two mounted bolts that attach with wing nuts (I will post pictures soon, just finishing painting the chucks). You are right about dropping them in but with the hump in the rear and I made the platform as short as possible, being able to roll the bikes on allows me to still fit the spare tire on the back, and remove the inside bike with the outside bike on the rack... and I can always leave the chucks attached... plus more adjustability for different sized bikes. YES! you cant have too many straps, I lost my KDX on the highway, fell off the trailer, luckily 1980s dirtbikes were so bulletproof that a few scratches later it was still ripping up trails. I will clamp down both wheels to the rack, then a few tiedowns against the suspension, but I don't feel comfortable keeping the fork compressed for 6 hours.. WHen i used to tow my track bmw, I had the suspension compressed down through the chassis and still wheel nets.. i have to say the suspension suffered...

thanks for the response and kind words, nice rack for a nice bike. I was quite content to have it this high, thought i agree, the higher the better. going straight back from the frame was the easiest but i also had to go a few inches further from the RV so the handle bars would clear the back of the RV as they came in right where the back pitched out, if it was higher it would have cleared. Hindsight. As for the camera, in the dolphin anyway, if you go through that rear light housing you can snake the wires in the compartment, down along side the vent stack, drill one whole through the bottom behind the lp tank bin, then follow the lighting wires to the fuel pump/sender wires along the passenger side frame rail all the way to the front and theres a unused rubber grommet under the passenger seat you can poke through. I didnt want to deal with the wireless ones, batteries and interference. Plus, this way you can tap right into the reverse light thats in the back there. I ran one wire utilizing a diode to tap the backup light, so when i put it in R the camera and screen turn on, (the diode allows the power to transfer through, powering the camera and switching the monitor). When I press the button to check on the bikes and while on the road, the diode prevents the back up light from turning on thoguh the system is powered.

Ive used oven cleaner too.. obviously dont get it on the paint. on some cars it can actually cause white marks on the glass.. mostly new cars with polarizing elements. I use residue free Brake or Carb cleaner, its cheap, cleans off everything from bug guts, hard water, old wax and rubbed off ruber from the wipes. i use it inside and out, careful not to get it on the paint or dash, follow up with rain-X onn the outside and Rain-x anti-fog on the inside.

Updated thread

Thought I would share some of my recent modifications withyou guys, hopefully help other members. The RV didn't come with a hitch and I've been thinking ofways to transport 2 bikes. Simplicity lead me to installing a hitch on the rearso I could buy a standard bike rack. Shopping for bike racks, I found nothingthat would work well for both dual suspension mountain bikes, road bikes..anddifferent sizes. Even the $400 ones are full of plastic parts and rock side to side on the highway (witnessedthat first hand), not a shortcoming of the manufacturer but a problem with the hitch. I found this well done, simple hitch setup and decided thatwould be best (cheapest as well): SoCal Riders Forum Then I moved on to the hitch issue. The best way to do it isoff the frame and not the extensions, seeing that I wont ever be towinganything or hauling a lot of weight (4cyl) I decided to go off the extensions.Seeing how low the back of the RV is already, I wanted the bike rack to be alittle higher so dropping the hitch to clear the grey water tank wasnt a goodidea. I decided to buy 2" tubing, 18" long and weld that to thebottom of the extensions, reinforced it to the original bumper supports, itsticks out 4". I lopped off the original bumper, and have two 40" x1.5"steel tubing that insert into the 2" welded tubing, secured by two SS bolts. This sets me up for a nice platform with two beams, 4 feetapart, rather than just one center one – much more stable. To lighten up the rear and make more space for thebikes I've decided to mount the sparetire underneath, between the rear axle and the grey tank by running a c-channelbetween the frame rails. There will be two lugs welded to it to secure thewheel in place as well as a post that comes through the center of the wheel andpin to hold the wheel in place so you can secure it with the lugs. That shouldmake it easy enough for one person to mount and unmount, roadside. Excuse the welds, did it with my old arch welder which I haven'tused it in a while, by the end I started getting back in the groove of things.I cleaned up the welds, sprayed everything with RustBlast from RBS Coatings(similar to POR15 but better) then painted everything with Satin BlackRustSeal. It holds up to UV, Salt, water, wont flake or chip, good stuff andgoes on easy with a brush. For the final bumper (not pictured) I used a galvanizedpiece of steel that I had lying around, welded nuts to the back of the 1.5"tubing. I purchased 18" strips of reflective tape at Walmart, cleans up thelook and is a must so no one rear-ends you. Will post pictures tomorrow of the final product, still need to make wheel chucks as the stabilizerfork holds the rear wheel, a bungee or tie down will secure the bike but I neeeda chuck to prevent it from rolling off. I noticed the fiberglass was coming off the wood in therear, so I purchased a 2" 8' L-angle in aluminium, to secure it to the wood,attached with silicone and 7 SS bolts. Clean look. I also started installing the rear view camera. I bought ascreen and cmos 170 degree camera off ebay, so far its great. I decided tomount it instead of the center red ceiling light on the rear, above the window.I took the red lens off, removed the bulb and socket, cut a piece of 2" Laluminium to fit inside the light housing, bolts up using two original screws,lines run inside and hopefully make their way to the cab- work in progress. The monitor simply snaps on to the original one, it turns on whenever the car is in R. I havethree switches in the cockpit: 1 thatlets you power the radio and cig lighter and supplies power to 2 and 3. 2 turnson the FM modulator if you want to play a dvd or hook up the ipod 3 turns onthe monitor/camera If switch 1 is off, so is everything else. If you leave thekey in the ON position so the radio works it actually still causes the ignitioncoil to induce.. overtime it will burn it out.. not to mention it drains thebattery. With this stuff out of the way, the roof patched, I caninstall the BOSAL exhaust that just arrived, the VDO trans temp gauge andcooler.

Valid observation, but not really a concern. Most RVs have the exhaust plumbed out the side for both generators and engines as it produces less heat underneath the already crammed belly of the beast. You do have to consider the exhaust and fumes, some RV owners will re-rout their generator exhaust up the side of the RV or extend it further away from the rv with removable piping both for fume and noise considerations when parked. With these small 4 and 6 cyl engines, as long as the muffler is installed, and the pipping routed away from the RV (i.e. NOT simply putting a 90 degree elbow on the current exhaust right after the muffler), I wouldnt worry about it at all. I guess the rule of thumb would be to go out the side at least as far as the last opening side window.

According to ToyoDIY, my vin shows up as a Rn75 chasis, just short of 140", which is the 'XL Wheel base" only a few sites show. and is under the Pickup DLX 22R or RE, no difference. Toyota no longer sells the full exhaust and it would be over 300 for the catback anyway. there are surprisingly a lot of options, primarily from Walker, AP and Bosal. These are all pretty good companies, in most cases far superior to what your local muffler shop would use, I would rate Walker as one of the best for this application as they're pipes are Al treated. BOSAL has the catback for $100 with the exhaust and rear tailpipe (288983) http://info.rockauto.com/Bosal/Detail2.html?08442225.jpg the tailpipe piece which most shops appartenly charge over $200 to bend, is available for $15 from Rock Auto. Walker has one for $30 from Amazon.com, the Muffler is about 30 as well.... just check Rock Auto, they have all the options laid out quite nicely. I ordered the cat-back system for 130$ shipped since i found a leak in my muffler, this being designed for the rn70 will have a shorter intermediate pipe between the cat and muffler so I will either cut existing intermediate pipe, weld on a flange and bolt it to the catback or put a 1 3/4" coupler and weld it. Maybe just cut the cat out and put a testpipe in its place going to the flange on the catback. I hope this helps someone out there looking to mend their exhaust for cheap, but do it right.

I've been doing a lot of tinkering on my 86 Dolphin, mostly fixing random little things and adding some custom toys (Pics and new thread posted soon), I notcied the exhaust pipe is rotting after the rear axle, where it looks like National RV welded on a 90 degree elbow and ran the 6 foot tail pipe out. I would like to run the exhaust out the side behind the rear tires, the same as my 87 22r truck has it stock. I originally went to 4 local exhaust shops, 2 didnt want to touch it because its an RV, one quoted me $400 and the other $320.... mind you, this is only for cutting the old pipe behind the muffler, bending a new one and welding it in place. I searched on here and popped over to RockAuto(dot)com, and found they sell the rear sections for about $20 bucks and stock catback systems from Bosal and Walker for under 100. The pictures they have are so small its difficult to tell which one is correct for the 21' RV, and they wheel base options they give are 103 and 112", I measured mine and it was about 143".... what are the proper ordering parameters? I noticed soemone posted they purcahsed the parts at Napa, anyone else purchase a pre-bent piece and what criteria did you use? how did it fit? Thanks!

Thats what i was originally doing, but its too difficult to make a good 'universal' arm. The builder of the one pictured above uses tie down straps and toe straps. I will be doing the same as well as welding up a removable wheel chuck that secures the bike from rolling off.. since the whole thing is metal and removable, I will start with just the wheel gutters mounted to the two rails, then the rim hoop.. and then add on till the bikes are secure, finish off with epoxy-coat and reflective tape on the rear.

Yes sir, someone on the SoCal bike forum (not this forum) did it all by himself, actually its a two part rack, the other part slides into the back to hold 4 bikes.