Derek up North

I believe many have cut the outer corners off to solve this problem.

Maybe. The VIN will tell all.

Weighing will clear it up. If you've got what I think you've got, I don't think you need the FF axle. If I had what I think you've got, at most I'd swap in an axle from Toyota Pickup 1-Ton SRW. This would still be semi-floating 5 lug which would allow switching to 15" rims at a reasonable cost. Switching to a 1-Ton FF will probably cost you ~$1000. Add to that ~$200/rim (4 or 5) for custom 15" rims plus the cost of 4 (or 5) rear tires. Adds up too quickly for my liking (and wallet). Is this what 'yours' looks like? http://old.tgeller.c...hics/moby-dork/ Or this? http://i363.photobucket.com/albums/oo73/advocateone/1978%20Sunrader/100.jpg

Without researching the 20R/22R 'hybrid' (much), I'll assume that the 20R head has smaller combustion chamber volumes. With the larger swept volume of the 22R, you'd end up with a higher compression ratio, which normally gives more power. But might also require a higher octane fuel to control predetonation (pinging).

Bleed it again. Nothing to lose and by doing it a time or two, you'll accomplish as much as getting it 'flushed'! Since you've got all the 'supplies' out and organized, why not do the brakes as well?

The same basic camper/MH layout eventually evolved into the VW based Winnebago Rialta with it's own set of problems. Another 'orphan'! http://www.winnebago.../1995Rialta.pdf

Try these two:- https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B_1LbTxQDmlVYmRkZTE2YjItODUzYS00NDUxLTk0ODUtYTYxYjZiYjk4ZTA5&hl=en http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/showthread.php?t=68806

Good news.

'Hard Start Capacitor'. http://www.modmyrv.com/2009/05/27/rv-air-conditioner-hard-start-capacitor

Lots of die-hard 22-RE fans proudly proclaim the engine's good for 300k+ miles. Oddly enough, the same people seem to advise potential owners that homes with 150k should be avoided!?

The Ranger and Toyota Pickup both have a 5x4.5" BCD. Ford lugs are 1/2", Toyota 12mm. Ranger 4x4 was available with 15x6" rims. Not sure if the angle of the Toyota nuts are compatible with the Ford rims.

Yep, unless you want to carry 2 spares. Of course you'll be doing that anyway if you install a 1-Ton rear axle.

If you want to explore single wheels, I'd suggest you start from the ground up. If you're thinking of staying with 14" wheel, get it weighed. The highest 14" load rating is 1875lb/tire, so if you've got more than 3750lb on the rear axle, you'll have to go to 15". Once that's sorted out, you can look at the axles, etc.

I'll assume you like wood. Many have gone to painted walls and cabinets from the faux wood originally installed. I'll be doing the same. Too much wood can make things dark. I should know, I live in a log cabin.

That link didn't work for me, but I suspect it's a picture like this:-

You were better off not knowing. The Renault powertrain has a nasty reputation. There was also an earlier diesel version. A lot have been converted to Chrysler 3.3 V6 engines and transmissions. The 'expanding' bathroom/shower is an interesting concept.

Try here. Toyota parts @ 28%? off list price. Search with your VIN. http://www.toyotapartseast.com/ https://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/ I'll second repacking the bearings while you're in there.

I've a 1lb tub of that too. The nice thing about the copper type is that when you get some on your face, it's not as conspicuous! Looks a bit like a tan, once it's spread out a bit!

A little tube of 'dielectric grease' or 'Kopr-Kote' would be a good investment. Every time you come across a 'new' connector, undo it, clean it and reconnect with a small dab. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/auto_Permatex_Dielectric_Tune-Up_Grease_1.htm http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/Permatex_Copper_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_b.htm

Good info and I suspect the same problems will arise with '90 - '93 dashes too.

Whatever you use, make sure it's rated for gasoline. Unfortunately quite a bit more expensive than radiator hose.

Try Googling "How to use a multimeter".

Looks like your frame is sagging a bit from the weight. Better box it!

No comment from me. I'm not really a backpacker! But of course you'll be leaving with water tank full and waste tanks empty. Returning the other way around. Unless you add a lot of beer to the equation. How about a Porta Potti?

If I were you, I'd head for the nearest Discount Tire and tell them they sold and installed the WRONG TIRES. A passenger car tire will have a maximum tire pressure of (I think) 38psi, as you mentioned. A Load Range C (6 ply) will be marked 50psi. A Load Range D (8 ply) is marked 65psi. The passenger car tires they sold you will squish down much more and bulge out at the sides are road level. There's a real risk that the sidewalls (at the rear) will rub together as you bounce down the road and around the corners. This can lead to a blowout from sidewall damage. This isn't a Toyota pickup. This is 6000lb (or more) motorhome. Some brands to consider: Hankook RA08 Yokohama Y356 Continental Vanco