RHS

Putting '86 conquest back together after major rework. When I step on brake pedal left turn indicator light lights and remains on as long as as pedal is depressed. Signal will not flash when pedal is down. Any one see that before?

I have an '83 nissan shorty sunrader w/full floater not sure about history. Also have '84 toyota 21' sunrader w/full floater. Wheel patterns different wish they were the same.

I forgot to tell it had good axle very nice unit

On a road trip to the Olympic Peninsula in washington state Feb. 12, 2015 I saw a sunrader at an rv dealer on hwy 101 near Sequim just had to stop. It was there 1 day when we saw it. The story is the original owner had passed away in his 90s the family was trying to sell it. 1983 21' Sunrader w/manual transmission, 80,000 miles had been stored inside when not in use. It was 'AMAZING', looked almost new inside. Rear dinette & very clean. Thought seriously about buying it but have 2 sunraders now. Just giving a heads up, the dealer was asking $7,000 as I was leaving they said they might raise it to $8,000. Peninsula Rv at Sequim.

Thanks for the info. Both were right at 6,000 lbs the nissan had larger storage box on rear bumper but toyota had 2 spare tires.

Last december I bought a nissan sunrader 18' 2.4 engine, 5 spd transmission, full floating rear end 72,000 miles.. Paid $1,000. I needed a new project. First nissan I have bought. I have done similar with a number of toyotas so was curious of comparison. Side window was missing (had one in bone yard) interior needed quite a bit of work, but not much expense. To get a fair comparison had to take it on a trip. So off we went to LA from N.Central Wa state. Replaced clutch slave cylinder in Oregon, front brakes in LA. Highway 101 through Oregon & N Cal. I 5 to LA. To make a long story short. I was really impressed seemed to have better power would run 65-70 all day long at 15+ mpg, at 55-60 got 17-18 mpg.Toyota had to really work to maintain 70. Trip was 93 miles short of 3,000 miles. After rechecking the last 2 days info. Averaged 15.9 mpg-15.9 w/similar toyota several years ago same trip. Toyota was 2.4 w/4 spd , 4.10 rear end. 5 spd seamed to have better gear spacing. I do not know rear end gear ratio of nissan or if my experience was unusual tried hard to be fair. Not sure how this compares to other peoples experience.

Thanks to so many wonderful people for all the help you have given this year. You made so many things much easier & we met some special peaple at our 1st toyin thanks to this site. God bless Rich

Karin You are right the cabinets do provide a lot of support for the roof. One of my biggest complaints with gardiner pacific was the use of particle board for framing. I've used the cabinet fronts for a pattern & some 4mm plywood for new fronts. It amazed me the different feel on the roof with and without the cabinets installed. With 2" wide cross strips you can get 2 scews on each. The end caps helped to stiffen the "box" of the cabinets. I put the cross pieces a little closer together than the original so more screws to hold up cabinets. I wish I had kept some records. I am not an engineer just an old millwright/fabricator. I am sure there are people who know better than I. Good luck with your remodel.

I think I went 16". The upper cabinets if installed properly support the roof also. I have had to glue framing to roof on several over the bed. All construction adhesives are not made the same. I used polyurethane but some of that has changed also.

I have rebuilt 4 sunraders. The 1st one had 3 feet of snow on it & the roof vent was gone, 3" sag in the roof. The upper cabinets were on the floor. Removed every thing 1X2s 1/8 " longer than the span (to maintain arch) w/polyurethane construction adhesive pushed up into place held over night by supports from floor, glued 3/4" foam between 1X2s, attached paneling to 1X2s. Still great after 4 years.

It is not the the best way to do it, but you can remove the valve cover, pop out the shim put in the thinner shim (measure to find the right thickness) if it was not run long enough to burn the valve you may be lucky. This is not the best way but a cheap long shot all the other valves should be checked in thee same way. Recheck compression after to see if you have helped. Good luck

That sounds just like what I experienced the seller tried to say it was plugged injectors but I knew better. $4500 purchase price & $500 machine shop & gaskets was a good deal for me because I was able to do the work myself. You don't find many '91 winnebagos for $5000.

Thanks Linda for all the help you have given in so many ways. Helping get Jerry's picts on the web sight is special. Jerry does such a great job with his camera & is just a great guy. What a wonderful bunch we met at our 1st toyin. Thanks to Ted & Cheryl for putting it together, Fred & Barbara for the beautiful setting, Sparky (Fred & Barbara's dog) for the entertainment. We had suspected that toy people were special, now we know for sure. Thanks every one for a great time. Rich & Laura .

I bought '91 winnie this spring low compression 2 cylinders took off heads took to machine shop they did valve job I put heads back on with new timing belt have a nice motorhome for less than it would have cost in good condition. This happens with these engines a lot, that is why toyota did not make these engines for very long. Had same thing with '91 dolphin.

We will be there from e.washington looking forward to meeting some new friends.

You might consider EPDM a rubber material. Sheet the roof with plywood, care fully finish the edges, roll on glue, roll out the EPDM bringing it down over the edge, install aluminum trim strip with screws, cut off excess material. Many of the newer rvs use this material. It was cheaper for me & easier. Just a thought. RHS

I owe an appology to karin & dolphinite I did not mean to insult any one. I don't know why I got onto git rot. Replacing rotted wood with good wood is the best way to go.

I told you what you wouldhere about epoxy in wooden boats Ilived in everett marina & know what the repair people including me did. I have never used git rot on a motor home, but have used some epoxy sparingly. The problem people had in the boats was trying to use epoxy when it was not completely dry & that can be very hard with a boat. I would not cut the fiberglass off the floor. But then I am not the expert, I have repaired a number of floors however.

You would really be surprised if you knew how many wooden boats around puget sound had some BAD rot soaked with epoxy & in some cases stronger than original. It is not someting that very many want to advertise but it is true. There is a product called 'git rott' (can't remember spelling) it was a 2 part epoxy that was as thin as water dried like rock penetrated very well. The rotted wood just becomes a filler. Where would us old renovators be with out epoxy. I sure hope the inventor made some money off that amazing product.

It is not as difficult as you may think to take that coach off the chassis. I took one off a rusted chassis & put it on a chassis that had a rotted "stick" built toyota mh. Was easier than I thought. Mine was w/side door. Remove fender skirts put a 4"X4" across under coach over the wheels support on each end over some hydraulic jacks. There were 4 carriage bolts through floor into cross 1"X2" steel box tubes.The most attachment was around cab just a lot of screws easy to remove. Rock the coach as you jack to separate, it will almost balance on the 4X4 you will nead to put additional support some where. let the air out of the tires & pull the truck out from under the coach. If you could find a rotted out toyota "stick built" mh to tear apart may save some time & work that way, they seam to appear more often than sunraders. Good luck & remember to keep it fun, it goes easier that way.

Learn something every day. I better do some checking.

An interesting discussion. I used to have '80 Sunrader as Linda no lights sold it back into California no problem. My current concern - I took a Sunrader off '77 chassis (no lights of course) put on '86 chassis. I don't really want to do some thing to front windows to mount lights. Will be selling soon. What should I do?

Aren't the bearings in a full floater lubed by the oil in the differential not needing to be "packed"?

I did not need new gasket so I did not try to find new material. I did not take any pictures of the process so I am not sure what to do to help someone do their own windows. Just use the old window and take your time I tried cutting a scrap with fine tooth saber saw did not work well but the thin cutoff wheel on the grinder worked well. I used a work bench and 2 2X4s resting on the floor with notchs at top to hold a scrap of 3" ABS pipe. I attached a piece plywood to these 2X4s.Taking the broken window I got an idea of where to clamp and bend. With a couple visegrip straddle clamps I clamped the oversized plexiglass to the top of the work bench using my harbor feight heatgun applied heat slowly with pressure down on the plexiglass. Just take time trim to the size of the old window except needs to be longer each way because when you put old on top of new you do not get the exact length. I made about 1/4" longer each way did some adjusting while installing. Good luck.

Thanks Karin I guess "simple" is a relative term. I had tried to put pictures on the for sale site a couple years ago did not work so I have been using craigslist because it takes the pictures off my camera. I'll have to try again. My cell phone is just a "phone".