tlava

anyone know who purchased the V6 Bandit in WI? wondering how trip back to Cali was/is... schadenfreude... ha!

t-stat: Toy OEM part #9091603070 from Olathe Toyota Parts Dept. 1-800-516-1455 https://parts.olathetoyota.com $33.90 + $10.00 shipping (I think I got the water pump from them as well but can't find that information)--they will ask for a VIN and then tell you it is not the right (stock) part so you have to let them know it is a mod. Rad: CSF 3 core (Linda's suggestion) from Auto Parts Warehouse (info@cs.autopartswarehouse.com); 800-913-6027 $257.40 after discount + FREE SHIPPING Not sure whether these things made a big diff or not, since the water pump bearing was shot, but both were recommended by others

interesting discussion and suggestions. Curious--were is this water valve, exactly, and should it be full open?

Happy NY all-- Well, after replacing the radiator (with a 3-core), the t-stat (with a dual-hole) and the water pump, I have had no temp fluctuation--needle stayed steady below half on recent trip NY to FL, cruising 60-65--and no detecable coolant loss--I think the pump may have been the culprit with the needle fluctuation, an apparently the neg. result of the pressure test was accurate, so, knock on my head, now HG problems apparently. Question: I installed an aux fan in front of the rad. Should it be wired to draw air from the outside, blowing it through the radiator, or to draw air from the engine compartment through the radiator and blow it out? I know the answer seem obvious (first way), but my concern is, would this be competing with the main fan? Is the main fan drawing cool air through the radiator from outside, or blowing the other direction, and should both fans be circulating air in the same direction?

Hi All-- radiator and water pump etc are new and yes the system was burped and no water in oil, but I assume it is the exhaust side that could be weak--I was just wondering how fool proof the pressure test is, as compared to the chemical test; no one around here seems to have a gas analyzer anymore....

Had a mechanic check the HC--he did a pressure test, and claims that the HC is OK--but coolant has dropped significantly in the reserve tank--must be going somewhere, right? Should I drive confidently or might the HC still be weak and not show up with only a pressure test? Hate to get on the road with 2 dogs and 2 cats and have a breakdown... I already told my wife to fly...

Hi all thanks again for all the replies; really appreciate that/ \\ Just to clarify a few things: SO it would take 2 people just to get the head out clean? it is possible that there would be water in the oil and not be visible? It has only 75k, and has been well maintained, I believe the pressure test would provide same results as the chemical test, or would both be necessary? I was thinking of having the head rebuilt by Engbldrs to hi-pro specs (OS valves and RV street cam): Ted cliams I can get about a 2-3 percent increase in HP with this, and even more if I add a 2" exhast. Should I bother, or just let a shop stick on a new HG and be done w/it. as for a rebuild--if I ever need that, I was thinking of replacing with a later model 22re ('85 or later) rather than an '84, since the later ones are more powerful and less problematic as far as parts, etc, and Ted claims that it is all the same as for reinstallation..... your thoughts?

Yours is a 20R or 22R... yes, VC not heavy, just a tad awkward putting it back on to avoid scraping towers. Yes I guess I should get a shop manual from Toyota? I looked today; no water in oil, but the white smoke starts after a couple minutes, and the res. tank is down from near the full mark, where I topped it after replacing radiator, etc, and to the low mark, so it seems the coolant going somewhere, unless normal for awhile after changing out rad, water pump, etc? I've only driven it about 10 miles, since, but have let it idle for long periods (maybe half an hour)

THanks--I did try to smell it, but just smells like exhaust to my untrained nose.... no water in the oil, at least not the last time I checked. Same happened with my Nissan--never did get oil in the water until the last, when it blew me off road.... As for the timing chain, on a previous thead it was noted that that is more or less a separate job, and lot more $$--almost twice as much, according to some--than just doing the HG--so trying to avoid that one... though it's true you're part way there to get to the head.... If I dare try to pull it myself--once the bolts are out and other stuff off, could there be problems lifting it off? it was a little cumbersome just removing the valve cover, so I'm imagining the head might be a bit tough.. Also wondering if sealant has to go all around, or just around the timing chain housing but the head gasket put on dry--I seem to recall using hi-temp sealant or gasket maker last time I did this ...(not on this engine)-- and what the torque specs are, what the torque sequence is, etc. If anyone know a good link to a step-by-step, with necessary specs, much appreciated The '73 Ford PU was a piece of cake--could almost stand inside the engine compartment, as I recall... What I'd really like to do is convert a mini cooper wagon to an RV... thanks again folks for all your responses.

Just seemed to shake the vehicle a bit when cold. I just did a valve adjust, and didn't notice this; the shaking for the first time last time I started it, but only while cold. White smoke, yes--not a lot of it, but noticeable with pressure on the pedal after warm up. Then the drawdown on the reserve coolant tank. Maybe I should get the chemical test to be sure.... I'm going to check again tomorrow; the symptoms are very similar to those I had with My Nissan V6 SR, and eventually (about 2k later) the HG blew completely. Also found out I need a 110AH battery to power the Atwood furnace I installed--well, at 30,000 BTU, overkill, I know, but a good deal, I thought, on GL at $200 shipping included--except that now I have to spend $260 on the battery! c'est la vie.....

Thanks! I went onto a couple OEM sites, and could not find head bolts listed---not sure how you do it, Linda! In any case, maybe I don't have to worry about the bolts... If I have my current head rebuilt Hi-Pro (I mean my Toy engine head) by engbldrs, the gaskets they send should be as good as the dealer OEM, right? I'm worried about having a mechanic unfamiliar with the 22 RE work on it, since there are "hidden" fasteners--the 12 MM in the oil under the cam timing gear, a long allen bolt through the T-stat housing, apparently some hard-to-get-to tubes on brackets at the back of the head that have to be removed to get the head off, and lining up of the notched distributor gear at 11:00 rather than 12:00, etc. Are my fears unfounded? I'd like to find a mechanic even within 100 miles or so of me of is familiar with the old Toy engines, but so far no leads... I haven't actually totally blown the gasket yet I don't think, no water in the oil but lots of other signs--coolant level somewhat down in res tank, sounds a bit like a diesel when first starting, some white smoke and a lot of moisture dripping after warm up, and a slight stutter (maybe unrelated), though otherwise runs well.. Rather than getting on the road to FL and risking a complete blow, I would like to pre-empt, and would consider tackling it myself though the only head I've done in past were a Volvo Penta marine engine (80s) and a 73 Ford straight six--totally different worlds...and been awhile, and too much I don't know, too much stuff to come off, etc--+ torque specs, etc, and I don't even have a torque wrench anymore and besides it is getting cold! Anyone out there near me who would be willing to work on this let me know--I'd be glad to serve as helper and of course pay for your time, etc.

Oops--Tod claims these head bolts (link above) are too short: "That head bolt part number is Rock Products I believe, if so, those bolts fit the lower deck 1985 to 1995 22R and 22RE engines only, they are too short for the early engine design with a serious risk of stripping out if used." Anyone know of a source for pre-85 ('84, in my case) 22 RE head bolts?

I found some from a company called Low Range Offroad: they claim the head bolts will fit the early model 22 RE (which I guess is the same head as the 22 R for that year?); I was worried because Ted said the old "long style" head bolts were no longer available... so hopefully these are the right ones. link if interested: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/ter-hbk900.html

Hi All-- Been emailing Ted and engbldrs: apparently it is OK to reuse the 22 RE head bolts: the only concerns about stretching are with the "3VZE, any using torque to yield" according to him.

Hi Folks-- Can anyone suggest a good mechanic (resasonable, familiar with the 22 REs, etc) in the NY, North Jersey, Eastern PA area? I'm within 50 miles west of Kingston, NY, about the same east of Oneonta, maybe 80 from Albany and about 90 from Binghamton and 150 from NYC Also a good machine shop? I'm thinking of getting a Hi-Pro head rebuild kit from Engnblder.com; apparently, there are no new castings for the earlier (pre-'85) 22 REs, so has to be done by a machine shop...