krj

If you want to take your son camping, which is awesome, a couple backpacks, sleeping bags and a tent is much cheaper and easier to maintain. Thats camping. A motorhome is RVing. Get him hooked on camping and a motorhome turns into a good tool to live and travel in between trips. What ever you do, have fun.

Here are some measurements. These are all bare fiberglass so you would shorten them by 2 or 3". Overall width = 6'6", tapers to 5"1" at cab. Back section (where you walk in) is 5'9" Ceiling height in entry = 6', main area = 5'1" Overall length = 8'8" Cab over = 5'1" wide X 5' long. Height here ranges from 19" - 26" Kind of confusing numbers to visualize. The angled sides lead to a strange space. No idea what a good price would be for this. I guess whatever some one is willing to pay. It is a reliable vehicle. Good luck

That is a SUPER clean Chinook Newport. It may sleep 4, if 2 of those are children. The cab over - due to the sloping walls - is pretty narrow and the length is pretty short as well. Between the 95hp of the 20r engine (which is already pushing the weight of the camper coach) and the bumper mount hitch, I wouldn't depend on it for much towing. That being said, it would be a fine rig if you don't need much room or privacy (note the location of the crapper). It is incredibly clean. I've got a gutted shell in my yard if you want any measurements. Good luck.

Do it! Check out the "put the sawzall down" thread.

Yeah Flathead Valley, way to represent! I'm in Whitefish, currently working on a '78 Chinook Newport and '84 4x4 pickup. I'll keep an eye out for ya Dolphinite.

Good work! Buy, jump in, have fun, and don't expect it to go quickly! This is a great place for info and inspiration. There's a number of restoration threads hear full of good ideas and awesome work. As far as what you are going to get into; anything and everything. Fiberglass oxidation? You've got bigger fish to fry, put that one down low on the list! Ask questions, don't expect things to happen overnight, and have fun. If your tranny is gone but engine good, maybe you should look for a 4x4 that needs an engine. Swap engine and coach. Check out Nolan's '76 in the 4x4 section of this site. Just an idea, planting seeds...

PH, I'm guessing your rig has duelly's. How do they handle in the snow? Boot dryer and hanging rack in the bathroom? We've got a "homesteaded" backcountry hut up here in NW MT and use a propane powered Mr Heater. Works great. Quiet, sips fuel, has a CO shut off, and works as a great way to heat up leftovers wrapped in aluminumfoil. Snows about gone up here, bikes are out. Enjoy your late season storms.

Thanks Maineah. I've got a 'materials' day ahead of me tomorrow for work so I'll pick up some Nickel rod while I'm at it. I think bolt-on ease and price dictates I roll with the original, at least for awhile. I'm still interested in some input as to how much difference an upgraded header/exhaust system actually makes.

Do a search in Forums for 'Put the sawzall down (Cochitta II)'. Great thread, very inspirational and full of info and pics. That thread is the main reason I currently have a gutted and removed Chinook shell sitting on a trailer waiting for me to finish rebuilding the engine in a 4X4 pickup. Wasn't hard to get off, tell you about the reinstall in a few months! Good and have fun.

The engine was bored in the course of a rebuild, its the only mod thats been done. I would love to increase the horsepower but money is tight right now, maybe in the future. Does a header and exhaust upgrade make a noticeable difference? I could put on the header from my buddy now and upgrade the rest later. Any recomendations?

Thanks for the info, Maineah, I like the sounds of it. I've got an old arc welder, any certain kind of rod I should use? I just started welding a year ago and don't yet know a ton about it. A guy at the local Napa told me that without a high Nickel content that cast iron manifolds would just crack again. Does that sound plausable or is he just giving me the old 'fetzer valave' line.

I've got an exhaust performance question, here's a little background. I'm currently rebuilding an '83 22r (it's been bored 30 over) and trying to balance the three qualifiers of any job; price, time, and quality. While tearing apart and cleaning I found a crack in the exhaust manifold. Should I take the cheap and fast route of welding the crack and re-using the manifold and existing exhaust and 27 year old cat? I've got a friend offering up a Hedman header which would need some fabrication and would, most likely, preclude the cat. Third option would be an after market header which would work with existing exhaust system and cat (most expensive option). While I'm not an 'environmentalist' (I own 10 combustion engines for f#$&s sake!) I do really like clean air and fresh water so I'd rather keep the cat, if its still doing any good. So I guess the real question is; I've got an '83 22r bored 30 over, is it any different if I put the Original Exhaust Manifold on, with a welded crack and original exhaust from manifold back through tailpipe OR New performance header to existing exhaust with orig. cat. OR New performance header with new exhaust system.

Not quite sure what you are asking. Are you talking about the camshaft? Why are you trying to stop it from "spinning"? What are you working on; timing chain, head, what? As far as "sealing above the timing cover", my FSM calls for "liquid sealer" on the 2 front corners of the block. I used blue Permatex. The head hangs over the block, as does the head gasket, and gets bolted onto the timing cover. The underside of the head gasket (at least mine, a Topline) had a sealant on it. By the way, mine is an '83 22r w/ a 5sp manual and the engine is out of the truck. Hope this helps

Anyone know if those Nissan/Datsun rear duallies would fit on a toyota pickup? There's a beat up '84 Nissan Sunrader down the road from me with full floating duallies, been thinking about buying it for parts or project.

Hey Mepps, welcome and have fun with the project. Your sighting of a Chinook Newport at a junkyard caught my eye. Where is it?! I'm remodeling one and need some door hardware. Keep the questions coming, this place is a great resource. Listen to Maineah, he knows his stuff! Kevin

Hey Baja, how goes the project? I've seen some new posts by you out there, would love an update on your project. Hope all is well, looking forward to some new pics. KRJ

How about spray foam insulation from an insulation company. I'm remodeling an old Chinook and am going to look into it once I get to that stage (it's a slow process and I'm still working on the truck). Again, I haven't looked into it, but my though/hope was to run all wiring, install blocking for mounting of lights, cabinets, benches, etc. and have someone spray an inch or so of insulation inside of the shell. From there what I was hoping is that it could be sanded smooth and coated with some sort of finish. What I don't know is cost, weight, and the sanding/finishing aspect of things. Anyone out there done this or looked into it? Good luck with the project, keep us posted. @ Baja - Good to see some pics of the project, are you going to have a chance to update the original thread soon?

I had trouble resizing pics for a while too. Someone here(I forget who) turned me onto shrinkpictures.com. Super easy and works well. Here are some shots of my interior, I haven't gotten as far along as Linda has!

Looking forward to the pics. I'm currently rebuilding my '83 22r, should be back from the machine shop next week. I like cheap upgrades, especially when they increase power and save gas. I do need a new header (old one was cracked) any recommendations? I want to keep the EGR system. LCE makes a sweet one but I can't spend $300+, I'm already WAY over budget. Thanks for the info. Kevin

That makes sense. In this case, however, the studs didn't replace the head bolts, they replaced the bolts which hold the Camshaft Bearing Cap to the head. The head bolts are on the outside of these. They don't go through to the block like the head bolts do. Still a legit fix? I hope so, it would save me a bunch of dough. If it is legit I'm guessing I should torque the nuts on these studs to the same value as the other camshaft bearing cap bolts. Thanks again for your help.

The rig this is on is an '83 4x4 pickup with a 22r. It will eventually house a '78 Chinnok coach, currently gutted and sitting on my snowmobile trailer. Here's another picture, before I disassembled everything. It's the valve in the lower right, the large diameter tube with the masking tape goes to the air cleaner. Again, it's toyota pn 17350-35030. Haven't much time to look at it this past week & probably won't for another few days. What did they do in place of the air pumps to stop muffler bombs?

Thanks Maineah, your a wealth of knowledge. Much more understandable explaination than found in Chiltons. Testing procedure sounds the same, I'm wondering if there is a way to check this valve with it off the engine. My engine ('83 22r) is currently completely disassembled. Fun tickets for this project are running low and I'm about to find myself with much more time to clean and test components than money to just replace them, if you know what I mean. I've got some laquor thinner in the shop, if I can keep the diaphram and other rubber material away, I'll try cleaning the tube with that. If I can't isolate the delicate parts I'll splurge for carb cleaner, hear its kinder to rubber parts. Here are some pictures of the carbon build-up in my egr. While we're on the subject of emissions, here is my reed valve assembly(?),toyota pn 17350-35030. Obviously broken. Haven't been able to find a replacement, new or used, online. Waiting for the temps to get above zero before I go trolling the local junk yards. What does this valve do? Haven't been able to find it in the Chiltons index. As always, thanks for all the help and info. If your feeling really generous with your knowledge and info, check out my posting under 'Broken Rocker Assembly Support' and let me know what you think! Kevin At Anna - There is an EGR valve for sale on EBay for $40. I found it by searching for '22r egr valve'. Says it will also fit a '78 -'80 20r. I can't vouch for that, but I bet someone here can. Good luck.

Slowly moving along & I think I've found the reason for the broken front Rocker Arm Assembly Support. Seems the head (as well as the rest of the engine) has been to the machine shop in the past. The front Camshaft Bearing Cap "area" has obviously had some work done. Instead of being held down by the factory bolts, there were bolts sticking out of the head with lock washers and nuts "holding" the bearing cap down. I say holding in quotes because the nuts were barely more than hand tight. I'm guessing that allowed for enough movement in the front of the camshaft to break the front rocker arm assembly support. Being new to the interior engine arena, I have to ask; is this even remotely a legitimate fix? Can this be worked with or is it an obvious northwest Montana 'hold-my-beer-watch-this' fix, in which case I should just replace the head. I'm guessing the later. Hopefully these pictures help explain. Incidently the bottom of the head looked great. Chiltons said 0.076mm in 15.2cm or 0.150mm over total length. I tried 0.060mm and couldn't get under the straight edge anywhere across the head. Hopeing the top of the block looks as good. Its all disassembled and in order, hopeing to look at it in detail next week. Anything else not discussed in Chiltons (my major info source at this point) I should be looking at or doing.

I'm also looking for some EGR valve info. I've got an '83 22r fully disassembled & was wondering if there is a way to test the valve with it off the engine. The tube is also VERY full of carbon deposits, any cleaning methods out there? At Anna - What model Chinook do you have? I've got a '78 Newport I'm remodeling, would be interested in some photos of one in original condition. I got mine in pretty rough shape and it is now completley gutted. I'm not going to reuse any of the original stuff. If you need any windows, exterior access doors (other than the main entry doors) or interior ceiling panels, let me know. Good luck with your emissions! Kevin

Thats correct, the cast iron bracket(front) is broken. Kind of surprised me, but a few mechanics have told me they have seen this before. I still expect to find a warped head. The history of this truck is I picked it up, barely running, down the road from me for $400, fully intending to rebuild it. It is in rough shape, covered in oil, distributor mounting bolt was missing, etc. What it IS, is a cheap 4x4 standard cab long bed to house my '78 Chinook, and a good winter project. The water pump seems to spin just fine, I'll take a closer look at it. I'm guessing I should look for leaks in the seal? Can I simply fill it with water and put it upside down? Is the impellar accessable and/or replaceable, such as in an inboard boat engine? Thanks for the good luck, I'll need it! Kevin