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centralman

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by centralman

  1. Could be if you experience the problem more when the accelerator is closer to the floor. Larger load of electricity cannot pass through electrical components with bad connectivity. So, I would also check distributor cap, distributor rotor, ignition wire set and spark plugs.
  2. Thanks again Jdemaris! I bought a couple of 1/2" plugs from local hardware store and after I plug them in I find that water still comes out from around the pipe. The plug must be too deep so the water tube wasn't sealed properly. I resorted to filling the plug partially with my glue gun and then waited a bit for it to cool down and plug it on. And it worked! No water leaking out finally!
  3. Thank you Jdemaris. It looks like the setup of the pipes is a bit different on my rig? I'll check to see the feasibility of your suggestion but thank you nonetheless!
  4. Thanks for your advice! Do you know the specs of the PVC fittings? I would like to get some idea what I need to get, especially for the short pipe nipple to couple the cold and hot water lines together. The extra water storage container is a good idea. Thank you again!
  5. I don't use my hot water tank ever as I have no use for it, but it was leaking so I have removed it from my Dolphin yesterday, and I would like to ask for some advice please: 1. Where can I get a cover that will be able to completely seal the opening? 2. Where can I get the caps to stop the water lines? 3. Would I be able to use the space to create an extra fresh water supply tank? If this is possible, any idea how? Thank you for your assistance.
  6. I've had my engine overheating during trip to Mexico last Christmas. Maybe you can find some insight into your problem:
  7. IMHO the furnace of the motor home is notoriously inefficient. Since you have electrical hookup, why not just use a electrical fan heater? I always have one in my rig so when there's hookup I can use it.
  8. Linda, I plan to install the water heater somewhere beneath the air vent in the washroom. I think that should provide sufficient circulation of air. WME: Yes I am still researching for better waterproofing method, however FRP panels, plastic molding and bathroom caulk is a bit too much for me. If there's something easier please let me know.
  9. Thank you for everyone's input especially Toyoguy for replying me first! I think the original water heater is very inefficient so I plan to remove that altogether. Then I will be installing this water heater. Then waterproof the whole shower area with this. Any comments would be very much welcomed.
  10. During my Xmas trip to Mexico, maybe the road gets too bumpy, the washroom sliding door just fell down from its track. I am thinking of removing the sliding door and hopefully replace it with a lightweight folding door. Anyone has any experience doing that? Would love to hear from you.
  11. Since I bought my 1987 Toyota Dolphin in May 2009, I have never used the shower before as I tried to turn the shower faucet on water came out right from the faucet for some reason ... Anyway, I set it my goal to try to get the shower to work properly this year, but before I do that, the shower space seemed to be just was up with wall paper, I wonder if showering there would damage the wood panel. So, I would like to ask for advice from fellow members if they have any success using anything to waterproof the shower space? Please advise what I could use to make the space water proof.
  12. I would like to report back my findings on MPG in regards to having OD off full time. I have a habit of fueling up as much as possible on every gas stop. I don't necessarily fuel only when the tank gets empty, but also when I need to make a stop shopping/eating etc. My first fuel stop is at Marysville, Washington, Interstate 5 southbound exit 199. This is usually the first time the tank is completely full after refuel. My next fuel stop is at Kelso, Washington, Interstate 5 southbound exit 39. The next stop is at Albany, Oregon, Interstate 5 southbound exit 234. At this time, I have concluded that having OD off is consuming about 25% more fuel than having OD on. After the stop at Albany, I switched back to full OD mode. I have also observed that with OD on at around 60mph on a flat road the engine revs at around 2800rpm. with OD off is at around 3700rpm.
  13. Thanks everyone for your comment I was just arrived back to Vancouver yesterday and had my first day of work today. I won't be heading out with my rig anytime soon so I would spend sometime to plan for any work to be done on it. I have found an interesting article in choosing aftermarket radiator here. I would like for comments on the article please.
  14. Happy new year to everyone here at the forum! I am on my way back home to Vancouver and now I am in Oregon. No problem so far after driven to San Quintin in Baja California and back. Yes I think temperature going up during climbing is not something normal too, and the mechanic did suggest that my three row radiator is not having the cooling effect enough and suggested I should changed it into an aluminum one. What do you think?
  15. I have completed the replacement of the fan clutch at Kettleman city and had driven 250 miles south to the rest area near camp Pendleton. I have never had such stable temps before with this RV - on the first 90 miles after repair to before climbing of the Tejon Pass (4.1k feet) temp was more or less pretty stable near the middle. During the climb, temp rose upwards but as soon as it's not under load it gradually drops back towards the middle, then everything went well. The tech said that the fan clutch was blowing hot air out but the volume wasn't enough. I suspected it was defective to begin with. My six and a half years of ownership of the vehicle I didn't realize this was the problem. I would hope my experience could shed some light on others who experiences similar problems ...
  16. Hello JD and thanks for your post. I am at Kettleman City, California at the moment having driven about 220miles. Temp fluctuation remains the same, and am at a mechanic shop now. They say the problem is the fan clutch it's not blowing air anywhere near what it should be. Anyway, at this point I am willing to give this a try. Will report back on the progress.
  17. Radiator was replaced when I bought the rig in 2009, I think it had less than 40k miles. It's a CSF 3 row radiator. Not sure it would be the problem.
  18. My rig always had a problem with coolant temperature going higher than half about at half way between max normal operating temp and the half way point between C and H. I suspected either thermostat, gauge or sender problem. For the last maintenance I changed the thermostat, sender (2 of those apparently) and flushed the coolant as well. The Toyota 2 stage thermostat apparently worked well.Temp Temp fluctuations seemed to have no apparent reasons behind it, whether you run it higher speed 60+mph or lower 55mph, flat or slope, it just came and go. It never did however reached that high on the top white line of the normal operating temperature zone. When it did that last night I pulled into the rest area and for the first time I found the exhaust manifold glowing red. Today I just did a stretch of 60 something miles and just refuelled. The operating temp was generally a bit higher than half like before and it raised a few of times higher than that and dropped back down. Will keep on monitoring.
  19. My rig is 87 Dolphin with 22RE engine. Thank you all for your posts. I have checked all the wires and they seemed fine. Distributor Cap and Rotors were replaced probably less than 7k miles ago along with plugs. Thermostat was just replaced with a Toyota 2 stage one. Drove for one and a half days now from Vancouver to just outside Sacramento. Temp of the rig had been going up and down when driving throughout years of ownership but never liked this and this one is definitely new for me. No sensation of loss of power whatsoever. I am going to drive for about 480 miles in total today and my destination will be at the rest area outside Camp Pendleton. Since nothing happened last night on the last 120 miles drive I will continue driving and observe. Thank you again.
  20. Thank you Linda for your post. I have made it to the rest area just outside Sacramento. Will have a good thinking session of how to deal with this. Coolant temp was normal, just a bit higher than half on the gauge throughout the drive. I don't think it is the Timing as I did my timing chain when I purchased the RV in 2009 and this is the Sixth time I am making the same trip from Vancouver to Baja California, without ever experiencing this problem - I tend to think it maybe a minor blockage in the exhaust system which had a cascade effect when the vehicle is continuously driven hard - the drive from Red Bluff to Sacramento was mostly flat roads so could be why the problem didn't come back.
  21. Thanks for the reply Linda. I have since driven 38 miles south from Red Bluff, and is refuelling. Oil level ok, no coolant. Coolant level ok, no loss. Radiator fan is blowing hot air. I filled the expansion tank to the full position and it is now about 2cm above it, which is what it normally is. My drive did not have any problems, coolant temp remains at normal. I will continue drive another 68 miles south to my destination, rest area just outside Sacramento. The condition was progressive, I drove after lunch a total of 407 miles, stopped only twice for refuelling and after Siskiyou summit the coolant temp got hotter and hotter and eventually reached the top of the normal operating range. So I stopped at the rest area outside of Red Bluff and when I opened the hood, everything is normal except the exhaust manifold, it is red hot and I mean you can see it glowing red. So I drove another 38 miles from rest area to the gas station and temp remains normal so I guess the blockage for some reason happens after long period of hard driving. I couldn't think of anything else at the moment.
  22. My fellow toy home members: It's my second day of my annual Mexico trip and I noticed the RV is running hotter and hotter as I drove it throughout the day. I have driven 460 miles today and just reached Red Bluff, California. I stopped at a rest area outside of the city because the coolant temperature gauge had reached the top of the normal operating temperature zone, and I am highly concerned because nothing liked this had happened before. So, I opened the hood, there's no sign of overheating, no coolant loss, however the exhaust manifold was bright red hot. Could this be a clogged catalyst causing the problem? I have just driven over the Siskiyou summit and then some. After a few minutes of cooling down the exhaust manifold I key on the ignition and the coolant temp showed it is back at normal in the middle. If this indeed is a clogged catalyst problem, could someone around this area recommend a muffler or repair shop to me so I can have this rectified tomorrow? Thank you very much for your assistance. EDIT: I intend to eat a bit something now in the RV and drive about 120 miles down to the rest area closer to Sacramento afterwards so that I can have more repair shop options ...
  23. Thanks JD for the info. I am leaving Vancouver this afternoon and will report on my progress. I really do want to get the gears changed after this trip, could you kindly provide me with the part numbers that I need in order to buy the necessary stuffs for the conversion? I did some research on the internet, will this work?
  24. What I don't understand is the reasoning for better fuel consumption with higher RPM, it is because I remember from my Toyota cars' owner manual they all say "shift up as soon as possible" "Maintain OD to have better fuel economy" ... etc. My reasoning for why they said it is because higher RPM = more fuel consumed over the same period of time.
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