Allen

We just came back from an 827.7 mile trip from the SF Bay area to Orick* and back. This was our first major trip with the 4.56 rearend. We averaged exactly 14.0 mpg. The individual tanks went from a low of 13.8 to a high of 14.2. I drove 65-70mph where I could. Prior to changing the rearend to 4.56, we would average about 13 mpg**. I think we gained about 1 mpg with the rearend change from 4:10, since the engine is under a lighter load and I am always typically in 5th on the highway now (however time will tell with more trips). The 5 speed and the 4:56 rearend work well together. I get more useable power out of the engine now since I can fully use 5th gear, can accelerate better (important for our underpowered motorhomes) and can now start up steep hills. I am very happy with the 4.56 gear change! *We visited Mendocino, Westport-Union Landing State Beach, Patrick’s Point State Park, Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, and Redwoods National Park. **Six years ago when I did the initial conversion from a 4 speed automatic to a 5 speed manual transmission, my initial conversion mileage was higher. Over time I used the new found additional usable power with the extra gear and the mileage dropped accordingly. Note: For reference I am running 195R14 tires on the rear; I upped the tire size shortly after we got the Sunrader to get the speedometer more accurate with the automatic transmission (and they also needed replacing too). I will be replacing the 185R14 front tires soon with 195R14s too, since they are slightly over 10 years old now.

This is indeed a very nice RV park and right next to Patrick's Point State Park! We stayed there last Thursday. A link to their website, http://azaleaglen.com/index.html . Below are some updated pictures (from Greg's original post).

Hi JD, Sorry this response is not that timely; however, I just got back from being out of the country on a business trip for 2 weeks. Anyway, there have been at least a couple of us who have converted their automatic transmission to 5 speeds, either by having the work done for them or doing the work ourselves. Please see my previous posts and links on this topic (http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/4347-how-many-miles-does-your-dolphin-have/#comment-25019). For almost 22K miles, I was running the previous 4:10 rearend. I recently upgraded to a 94 4Runner 4.56 ratio pumpkin with an Eaton TrueTrac, since almost getting stuck getting out of Monument Valley’s 17 mile scenic drive and almost burning up my clutch trying to get out. I cannot really say anything about the mileage yet (only about 250 miles); however starting out now is much easier! In regards to being able to pick up a 91 for $400, that is a great price! You might still have to pick up some parts, since there was a body change between 88 and 89. I am not sure if the pedal assemblies are the same, along with the cross member bracket; however, you will have a great start from the 91. Regards, Allen

The Velvac 757015 is the stainless steel version of the door frame painted brackets that came on our motorhomes. I just installed a set on mine, after painting the original tube support bars. They are hard to find, I found these on eBay (finditparts). I also replaced the original rusty mirrors with Velvac's stainless steel ones too (704093 and 704095). The original door self taping screws are available in stainless steel here locally at Orchard Supply Hardware (sort of pricy at almost $2 each, pictured), though the 757015 comes with all hardware you will need.

We stayed at the Rancho Sedona RV Park* over the Christmas holiday for 3 nights. There were two other Toyota RVs! I met the gentleman next to us, Ken in a Winnebago. He is a full timer from Southern California. I told him about this website. The other Toyota RV (Montana plates) has been fully tastefully customized to look like a new modern RV, at least the outside. Unfortunately I did not get a chance to meet the owner(s). I should have gotten a closer look, since those wheels look larger than 14s. It looks like it was originally a Winnebago. *This is our 4th stay here. Very nice, clean, has heated bathrooms and walking distance to town.

Hi Vincevs21, Regarding your header, you might want to consider a TriY header instead of a 4-1 header. From Doug Thorley's downloaded catalog: "The Tri-Y design yields maximum power from idle to 4500 RPM, while adhering to strict emissions standards. Engineered to be well-suited for Trucks, Tow-Rigs, and RV’s, power significantly increases in mid-range RPM’s, making this style exceptionally efficient at highway speeds. Fuel economy and low-end torque increase dramatically with the Tri-Y systems while reduced backpressure, lower engine heat and lessened weight are all added benefits of this design." Here is some information I posted previously (#3, will lead to a picture of the TriY installed on our 85): http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=2956&hl=header#entry14900 Your 83 also uses a one wire oxygen sensor, so you might have the same richness issue at idle (not for smog reasons in your case, but for gas mileage). Have fun! Regards, Allen

Okay, the best way to make an adapter is just to buy the following propane adapter tee from Mr. Heater (P/N F273751), http://mrheater.com/Product.aspx?id=85&catid=357 . The finished product should like the following picture after it is modified (per the picture). Now no more removing the tanks to fill them! Note: A picture of my Sunrader propane tanks for reference.

I never thought anything about filling up the horizontal dual tanks in our Sunradar, since the first time I had them filled up (in Oregon by a gas station), they just filled them up without removing them. It was not until I needed to get them filled up the next time, that all 3 places I went to in the SF Bay area wanted to remove my tanks. I ended up making an adapter that I now have the stations use to fill up my tanks. One place I took our RV to made the comment that it was cheating. I will post a picture of it this weekend.

145" for our 1985 Sunrader 210 RD. The frame is extended behind the cab.

I sure wish I knew about this prior to the automatic to manual transmission conversion I did almost 2.5 years ago. I would have definitely went for the turbo version! Below are some pictures I found on eBay that show the differences. On the turbo version (left), the ring gear is the same diameter as the flywheel surface. The non turbo version (right), shows the full ring gear, hence the smaller clutch diameter and surface area. At least from this vendor, there is only a $5 difference between the two versions. http://www.ebay.com/...=item2ec43e508a

It handles way better, before it felt like it was going to roll over! This pickup also has a turbo. I cannot believe that Toyota only used a 2" exhaust on their turbo trucks. I upped it to 2.5", to help get the heat out, improve reliability of the turbo, and for a little extra power. There are some turbo Toyota pickup owners who up it to 3".

I installed the Hellwig bar on an 86 Custom Cab* I bought last month. One thing that I wanted to point out is that you may have to also modify your exhaust tailpipe with the Hellwig rear swaybar, since at least for mine, it was in the way. Fortunately, I had the CAT back exhaust system replaced at the same time, else it interfered with rear swaybar linkage and bracket. Attached are a couple of pictures showing the muffler's guy handy work to avoid the rear swaybar linkage and bracket, and the general installation. I brought the Hellwig bar from SDTruckSprings.com. They currently have it on sale for less than Amazon ($183.95 vs. $201.21). In addition, there is an additional sale that almost pays for the shipping cost. http://www.sdtrucksp...roducts_id=3786 . Notes: 1) If you look off to the distance, you can see my Toy MH in the background! 2) *This is a Toyota pickup (not a MH); however, the same potential interference applies.

Hi GK, That is a great price for a header! I did not know that one could buy a new one for that low of a price! Unfortunately for most of us living in California, it appears that header nor that DUI distributor would work for us, since either one would fail the bi-annual smog check because of no EO number (at least I could not find on their websites). If you are happy with your motorhome currently, I would just replace the parts as they are required. If you want a hotter spark, a lower cost way would be just to add a hotter ignition. MSD used to make an inductive ignition, Blaster Ignition (pn 5900). It has all the performance benefits claimed by your DUI distributor (since it is inductive), plus it has an EO number. In fact, I installed one on my Sunrader (see picture below). They are still available new out there, but you will have to look for them. The lowest price that I saw was $139. Whatever ignition that you do buy, just make sure that you get a tach adapter (http://www.msdigniti...ch_Adapter.aspx), else your engine will not run. Regards, Allen Note: The tach adapter is not shown in the picture, since it is hidden by the power brake booster.

Hi Stamar, From the Bosch Oxygen Sensor Catalog (http://www.bosch.com...or__Cat_WEB.pdf, page A6): Single Wire Sensor - the original design, sensor output voltage via the single pole connector, grounded via the sensor body Two Wire Sensor - for improved earth reference of sensor output signal, a reference wire is also connected between control unit and sensor. Three Wire Sensor - heated sensors provide various advantages including, Earlier cut-in for closed loop operation Lower emissions with new and aged sensors Lower sensor deterioration caused by thermal stress Extended service life (from ~ 50,000km to 80,000km +) More accurate fuel management system calibration Greater flexibility in sensor location [*]Four Wire Sensor - heated sensor with integrated earth reference/supply circuit, these sensors may be either grounded through the body or earth isolated depending upon engine management system design and customer requirement. Earth isolated sensors are provided with an earthing circuit for the measuring cell by the engine management control unit. The engine management control unit purely references the earth of a sensor that has its body grounded. See also pages A8 and A9 for the evolution of the oxygen sensor. Basically, a 4 wire sensor is heated over a 1 wire. This allows placement remotely, I mounted it at the collector (this way is can sample all 4 cylinders). 2 of the wires get attached to power, a switch 12V line and ground. The other lead is connected to ground, and the remaining wire to the original 1 wire sensor. The issue I had was that the original 1 wire sensor did not get hot enough at an idle with the header, so it was running rich and failing the smog test. Regarding headers made by either Doug Thorley or LC Engineering, both offer 50 state legal ones http://dougthorleyheaders.com/faqs/ http://www.lceperfor...5-p/1041030.htm Hi Dank, I installed the Doug Thorley TriY header 2 months after I got the MH. Afterwards it went straight to the muffler shop for the 2.5" exhaust. I am running 12 degrees advance on my 22RE (7 degrees over stock (5 btdc)) best results for my setup, more than that slows down the response and power. For reference: On my 22R pickup (commuter) I am running 13.5 degrees advance (13.5 degrees (0 btdc)), it has a 2.5" CAT back system that I added. Both greatly picked up overall power after the timing was advanced. Power was what I was after for the MH, not mileage (i.e. to make it more acceptable, in your words). Note: Adding the larger exhaust without advancing the timing more did reduce the gas mileage and low end power in the pickup. Note: You should do what you feel comfortable with. Regards, Allen