WME

Quality stuff here...https://209yota1.com/t/22r-22re

The 20r is about as bulletproof of an engine there is, the 22r/re is almost as good. Neither tolerates overheating and the 22r has the single row timing chain. A new head, timing chain, water pump, radiator and odds n ends. You would be back to almost bulletproof. IMHO use only a Toyota thermostat and Toyota red antifreeze. The rest of the parts use high quality aftermarket Toyota MH make trips all over the USA for MONTHS on the end. So if your mechanic is good and says the rig is ready for a real trip, go for it. Do a good check out each day before you start the engine,,, engine oil, coolant and tires. If this is Greek to you have the mech show you how. Getting the radiator cap back on is VERY important.

If the head checks OK then just do a new gasket. MAYBE a new timing chain. If the head needs work, look at a new head. For $300 or so you can get a complete headset, head, gaskets, timing chain, bolts and a water pump.

It is a good price if its really what you say it is. Old Sunraders may not fall apart and leak everywhere, but they will develop leaks at any opening cut into the shell. Vents, windows and doors. They also have a terrible floor design. If you have SKILLS then the problems can be overcome, if your skilless then its $$$$ to repair things. The major appliances are the refer and water heater, they are $$$$ the other things are just $. The truck is just a basic truck and John Muir's "How to keep your Toyota PU alive" will get you through whatever needs doing.

Finally back, I went down Fri.

What model is your onboard converter/charger? The 200w solar is a good deal, BUT how big is your battery?? Do you know AH or group size?? The refer Dometic 2401 has a simple controller (you) The controls should be on the bottom of the refer. Right to left Big knob A source switch GAS OFF ELECTRIC, next big knob B is the thermostat gas or electric, then a small push button the piezo sparker, last is a window to see the flame. If the refer has been changed out over the years all bets are off.

Marine grade wood Home Depot, Lowes, never mind a boatyard What marine grade plywood really is https://www.thespruce.com/what-is-marine-grade-plywood-2736672 https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-AB-Marine-Grade-Pressure-Treated-Fir-Plywood-154459/203527614 Plan B https://www.lowes.com/pd/3-4-CAT-PS1-09-Marine-Grade-Douglas-Fir-Sanded-Plywood-Application-as-4-x-8/50254845? Plywood-_-&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuaegju_P3wIVg7fsCh2mewuzEAAYASAAEgLOg_D_BwE Wood Preserver https://www.lowes.com/pd/COPPER-GREEN-Oil-based-Wood-Conditioner-Actual-Net-Contents-1-Gallon/3064247

If you can find a truck with the 6 bolt front end. Get everything. Remove the front assembly at the ball joints. Get brakes, rotor, hoses and spindle. While you have it all apart replace the ball with good quality ones. Remove your old the stuff and just bolt the new stuff to your a arms.

Remember if you remove the spark plugs, you MUST use anti-seize when you reinstall them. Check the AAP first its a simple screwdriver thing.

What do your spark plugs look like??? Black and sooty or clean tan? I'm not sure of carb vintages, but many of the Asian carbs have an Auxiliary Acceleration Pump and they are notorious for the diaphragm rupturing. When it does fuel will just dribble into the carb when the engine is running. Bad power and bad MPG. Heres a look at things https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/81-pre-88-toyota-pickup-hilux/223698-hesitation-spuddering-issues.html

Charger, maintenance, how far it was discharged are all part of the battery lifespan. A lot of folks do well with WalMart batteries. The fact that they are everywhere is nice when you are on the road a lot and you have a warranty claim. A "best" battery will be over $200. Lifeline, Trojan, Deka are highly rated. You also have to decide flooded cell or AGM. If you need the very best a LiP04 (lithium) run around $750+

Not OEM but the will work, cheap too. https://www.amazon.com/Dreambaby-Premium-Appliance-Fridge-Latch/dp/B01NCONVE4/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_lp_t_2/142-7411594-1375020?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D7DHZT0AN7ZRQR2KXVT3

Possibility... a dying fan motor. Its stiff and doesn't blow enough air to trip the safety fan sail switch. When you start the truck the motor gets extra voltage, like 12 vs 13.5 , after the heater starts you probably stop the truck. Then the voltage drops back to12 and the fan slows down and eventually the sail switch trips and the fire stops. OR the fan slows and the air flow is reduced and the heat chamber overheats and the safety temp sensor trips. The fix is a new motor, maybe a clean and lube the motor and sail switch will get things going. But your motor is 35 years old and just may be worn out.

URGENT.. The fuel filter should be between the gas tank and the fuel pump. That way it protects the fuel pump. If this is the way yours is, the only way you could get a clug of rusty stuff out, is if the stuff was in the old pump or a gas line full of it. Hopefully, more of the same didn't get into the carb. If your filter is between the pump and carb CHANGE IT or add another filter in the proper place.

If the simple inside post thing won't work then could you do a combo of post and cross beams inside? They may not end up at 90 deg angles to the inside but from where ever the post could be "hidden". The other choices require a double cross beam setup. A full width 1.5"-2" angle iron beam (u channel or sq tube will work too). Lay it down and drill through the roof, use a 2" piece of 1/8" strap iron on the inside to spread the load. Bolts every 8" or so. One crafty member did some beautiful steam bent laminated wood inside cross beams. Another cut the inside beam from solid wood with a curve in it. The outside beam needs to be blocked up at each end about 1/2". As you tighten the through bolts you can adjust the amount of torque on the bolts and give the roof a very slight positive curve to prevent water pooling on a flat roof. Do this in front and back of the AC. I use the term angle iron as a generic term steel or aluminum will work, but aluminum is a bit bendier. Of course, the bare metal must be painted. As always all this depends on your skills or pocketbook. A 1.5" sag is a lot and it's only going to get worse over time and cause increasing roof damage.

X2. Drain the first drippings into a qt mason jar. Let the fuel settle and see if there is a garbage line in the jar. If things are clear then your last gas purchase is OK. Got a line? bad gas, then its drain, drain until things are clear...Heet may help here.

Look carefully at where the sag is and where your countertops and dinette are. I jacked my roof from the inside and cut 2 stair rail banisters to fit. One on the corner of the countertop and one on the dinette seat back. No more sag or leaks.

Toyota 1980 20r should have the pump on the engine. Earlier PUs had an electric fuel pump in the tank. What year is your chassis? Here is DIY fuel pump change video. .. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBZtwwr1BjY  

You should have a mechanical fuel pump. Its mounted on the carb side of the engine in the front. No prime sound. Good luck

Ideas from easy to OMG your kidding 1 Plugged gas cap vent. Loosen it and see what happens, if this fixes it buy a proper new cap. 2. Did you fill the tank just before you started the trip?? Maybe a load of BAD/watered gas. Try a couple of bottles of HEET. 3 Bad fuel pump, you need a pressure gauge to check the pump. Maybe a loner tool from the local auto parts. Easy replace. 4 Cr*p in the fuel tank. The faster you drive the stronger the fuel sucks. It sucks the stuff against the fuel sock and blocks the flow. You stop suction stops and the cr*p floats away, start the engine and soon it blocks the fuel intake again... FIX drop the tank and remove the sender and flush the stuff out.🤬

Reflextic still will work, even under the vinyl

The SOP is to remove the seats and carpet. Then lay down a couple layers of Reflextic ( silvered bubble wrap). Then reinstall the carpets and seats. This doesn't fix the problem but at least it keeps the heat and some of the noise outside.

Dino boards...https://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/

A quick check to eliminate a few things.. Try running the truck engine when you turn the heater on.

If all else fails remove the old shocks and measure the extended/collapsed length The Bilstein catalog should have the info to compare with Also check the ends are correct.