WME

More light please, take the picture from behind a rear wheel shooting toward the other wheel.

Got a smartphone?? bubble level app.https://downloads.tomsguide.com/Bubble-level,0301-41172.html..

Additional thought, practice changing a flat tire at home on a solid surface. Learning how to do it on the side of the road in the rain is bad juju. This way you will know if you have all the tools too.

Welcome to the tribe! You need to understand one major thing, your Toy is over 30 years old. You can carefully inspect everything and suffer a problem 100mi down the road, you can inspect nothing beyond what you have done and run for years with no problems. The answer " Just do it". Travel at the speed of smell, enjoy the trip and life. Official old fart expression is to travel the blue line roads. Allow time for "stuff" to happen. You're going to be fueling every 150-200 miles so that will be the rest time for your truck. Add tire checks to your daily fluid checks. Harbor Freight has a cheap IR temperature checker. While your fueling just walk around and check tire temps. A tire with low pressure will be hotter. After a few checks you will know what normal. The checker is also handy for cooking. 55-60mph is a happy speed for your rig, it will run faster but the mpg will suffer greatly at 70 mph. O/D only with a good tailwind. Going down the East coast you will have hills to deal with, learn to be proactive with the transmission lever. Going west you will have mountains to deal with, proactive shifting is a must as is proactive braking. The best driving computer in the world is between your ears, THINK ahead about what the road is doing. If the weather gets bad, just go home, its only 5 ft away. Park safely of course. Useful information... Where to dump your holding tanks (free)...https://www.rvdumps.com/ Cheapest gas...https://www.gasbuddy.com/GasPriceMap?z=4 Flattest route...https://rvmiles.com/flattest-route-finder/ Feel free to ask more questions.

Wheel travel is measured from full drop to full compression. The shock for your truck has 4.6" of travel, when you figure out the ratio of the A arm from the pivot to the shock to tire. You should have 6"+ of travel

A bad Carb can cause many failures, but EVAP is not normally one of them. Normally the engine is not even running

To level a parked make a stack of 2x6 into a ramp or fancy commercial levelers to do the same thing...https://www.rvweb.net/best-rv-leveling-blocks-reviewed/

Other than the handling problem, how did your other improvements function? Any suggested design changes on the power/water systems? Did your suspension have anti-sway bars front and rear?

Here is a forum for Scamp type fiberglass trailers, maybe some ideas for Sunrader owners. http://www.fiberglassrv.com//mods...

Most evap tests are not sniffer tests. They are a simple pressure test. ie your fuel system must hold a certain pressure for so long of a time period. A bad gas cap, a cracked hose, the canister cracked are the usual suspects.

Not real crazy about hanging the aux tank from welded brackets

He's talking about your gas cap, go to your local auto parts and buy a new one.

Mr. Dolphin status???

Take a flashlight and go out and disconnect all the wires going to the - terminal on the battery. Tomorrow in the daylight we will help you check things out. Was the Rv plugged into shore power? Yes VOM=volt ohm meter

1. Check the water level in the battery. 2. Get a good VOM and check the actual voltage at the battery. Charge controllers can go bad the same as most electronics. 17.6 sounds almost like a shorted controller that is allowing full panel voltage to the battery...Silly question are you sure it was 17.6, not 12.6

Your rubber suspension A-arm bushings are 25 years old or worse, you already have spent 1/2 the labor cost getting the old brakes, rotors and uprights off your rig to change them. Save time by doing it now instead of in 2years. Same thing for the ball joints.

The uprights will bolt to your existing a arms. While. things are apart replace the a-arm bushings, ball joints, brake pads. New rotors are not that expensive and would give you a brand new front end.

Is the original air control valve still on your engine?? and somebody just removed and plugged the hoses?? It looks like the valve is temp operated so it should be screwed into the engine cooling system somewhere.

Pour solvent/kerosene into the front of the pan and see if you can flush it out the drain hole. OR a big magnet and drag it around the pan and head for the drain hole, see what you catch. Without knowing what shape your screen is in its a gamble to leave it in the pan. Here's something that may be useful trying to find the tooth...https://www.walmart.com/ip/As-Seen-On-Tv-Lizard-Cam/800735601 Its a $40 borescope

Check it your self, got a steel straight edge?

A stage 1 tune to 22RE power levels would make things a little easier going down the road, with out big bucks. Crazy could come later is you feel the need for 65 mph up a 6% grade😁

That's a good deal, also its an AGM battery and has different charging/maintenance requirements than a typical flooded cell. Check your converter settings to make sure you can keep the battery happy

Finally, I'm sure there was a big SEG around 500mi when the limp mode didn't show up. Does any make a Stage 1 kit tune kit for stock components?

Old school carb external fuel pumps not fuel cooled, EFI inline external fuel pumps, cooled by fuel flow internally.