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Everything posted by WME

  1. To many variables, what inside, how much is inside, outside temp. One trick is to install some foam sheets on the outside of the refer for better insulation.
  2. If the flame goes out the thermocoupler is designed to shut off the gas flow. To increase the cool time , just freeze a couple of old qt milk bottles, they should refreeze each night. Blue ice works too but cost more.
  3. Sure hope you get a bulk rate on the screws. To keep things waterproof use a dab of sealer on each screw.
  4. WME

    Well I never

    There were 2 versions of tag axles that Ive seen. Faux duallys and a tag axle, more rare is two wheels per axle.
  5. All the above...yes. I got an extended warranty of 2 years. The 2000w generator is the newest so it should be around for a while. A dead generator while boondocking is normally not a "fatal" problem, but an annoyance for sure. It won't run my AC.
  6. LiPo batteries are awesome but require very special charging. Also a basic LiPo single cell has a nomial voltage of 3.2v and a cut off voltage of 2.5v so your looking at a battery of 12.8 to 10 v. Most of the hybrid battery packs are 24, 48, or 96 v. http://www.ebay.com/sch/Electric-Vehicle-Batteries/177703/i.html Have fun
  7. Good deal, sounds like it did everything it was supposed to do. Until you get a speedo adapter just upload a speedo app into your phone. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.valueapps.utilities.speedometer
  8. I have the Harbor Freight 2000/1600w inverter generator, so far so good. With the usual HF coupon/catalog search I was able to get it for $429. Plan B ?? A 200w solar kit is $300.
  9. PT 1 for the water pump http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pumps-water/rv-pump-converter.htm PT 2 bypass the heater http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-water-heaters/rv-winterizing-bypass.htm PT 3 blow out adapter http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pumps-water/rv-winterizing-blowout-plug.htm Winterize a Toy size RV with less than a gallon of antifreeze
  10. The order is Must do, want to do and sure would be nice to. The first one seems to actually have an end point, the other two are never ending.
  11. Well I never owned a SunRader, but I sleep at Holiday Inn Express . Ive been RVing for 30 years and have helped with some SunRaders. I don't know what you know about Raders. So starting with basics the floor isn;t solid. Its a construct of plywood and foam. Its all bonded together and is strong enough when its new. A little water over the years and the wood delaminates from the foam and you have all the strength of 3/4" foam. The shell is bonded to the floor, then its bolted to the frame. There are NO full width supports over time the floor breaks down from the weight of everything and you end up with a sag around the edges. So several triangle support brackets per side will help carry the weight. A few crafty folk have installed full width supports. Your plan of new wood epoxied over the old is about the next best and easiest to do. I would cut your center piece and make full width cross pieces as wide as possible. Jack the outer wall level before you glue things. Once you get the floor stable the rest of the coach is almost bullet proof. You asked about the seam. Its a production expediency. Removing the trim and using glass and bondo to smooth it over works well, but then you have a paint/gel coat matching repair to do. A common upgrade is to keep it and replace the screws with stainless ones. The screws were cheap 25 years ago and didn't age well. Many of them are the wrong lengths (think left overs at the factory) and have been the source of aggravating leaks, shorted lights. A dab of sealer on the threads of the new screws and a dollop over the head and its water proof for ever.
  12. Well try flush with fresh water, next bleach 1/8 cup per 5 gal, fill 3/4 full and drive around to slosh the bleach mix everywhere, Next a box of baking soda in a 3/4 tank and drive. Finally a 3/4 tank of just water and slosh it around. The quantities of "stuff" is way overkill for just normal spring cleaning because of having anti freeze in it. I REALLY hope it was RV anti freeze in the tank and not auto engine anti freeze.
  13. Well you need flat and level to have a starting point so keep going. Have your beau look under the rig and see how the house is mounted, the Raders have a bad design and an old one may need some "help"
  14. From the other Toy MH site. https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Cyrix-ct-120A-230A-EN.pdf Charge ALL of your batteries from the alternator AND your converter.
  15. A skill saw and a straight edge. If you need a wider kerf just double up on the saw blades.
  16. Ideas here?? http://www.delamrepair.com/index.html
  17. Two batteries yes, four no. The mount your planning on is glassed to the floor, the floor on Sunrader is a known weak point. The complete weight of the shell is carried by the edge of the light ply/foam floor and you want to add 120 - 240 lbs right at the edge. You need to spread the weight out as much as possible. A 3/4×8 piece of ply isn't enough area. The floor on a Sunrader is NOT supported full width and is known for buckling around the edge The only way I would consider four batteries is if there was a steel sub frame under the floor that was welded to the truck frame. Crawl around under your rig and look how the house is attached to the frame.
  18. We've done the lower and forward thing and it won't work, BUT its still the best thing so keep looking. However 2 batteries mounted on top the wheel wheel, how you suggest, in a completely sealed box vented to the outside should be OK. With everything installed how are you going to service them? 4 or 6 batteries NO WAY
  19. "The rear end squats" is the perfect description to use when describing the rear brakes doing their fair share.
  20. Most important thing is available footage for the new dinette and where the wheel is going to fit under a bench. That will tell you sideways style or single bench along the wall. You have pole pockets in the floor do you have a plug in table for the couch?
  21. OK so this post is back. Lets refresh things, why so much battery capacity? vs say 2 T-105s and a 200w solar setup. Also keep in mind the cargo carry capacity of the RV
  22. A bad booster will make for very hard brake pedal. Remove and plug the vacuum hose and see what happens. Glazed or contaminated brake pads can cause this as well as just cold brakes. Pull a pad and check to see what shape it is in.
  23. Cutting a hole for a vent is not just cutting a hole. The vent holes are framed in with the roof rafters. Look close and see if you can get at least one side of your frame screwed to a rafter.
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