Jump to content

WME

Toyota Advanced Member
  • Content Count

    4,310
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by WME

  1. Check to see if your converter is putting out 12v dc. There may be a CB in the converter that tripped. Older converters are a source of many problems. IF your light went from full bright to full dark with the click then look for a CB in the power lead coming the battery.
  2. You need truck chains, problem is they don't make them for our small tires. Only possibility is to cut down a small set to fit a Toy. Did you use chain chains or cable chains?
  3. Your on/off switch may be the main CB for the genset
  4. The water is getting deep here. Here's what I did 1. Remove trim inset, Remove the screws, easier said than done, most will be rusted almost in half. A small grinder will be a great help. just grind off the head of the screw. Then remove the trim itself. Be careful not to bend it out of shape, 2. Clean, clean, clean the joint. I used Pro Seal 34 to seal the joint, mask the caulk line for neatness. Butyl tape over the joint and edge. Reinstall the trim strip, I used self tapping stainless steel screws installed in new holes. Each screw got a dab of Dycor over it and so did the old holes. The Pro Seal is the actual seal agent 3. I laid out the new trim insert out on the roof for 3 months to "preshrink" it. I reinstalled it with a screw at each end. In 5 years no problems. If yours starts to show ANY leakage this the correct fix, any patch job is short term.
  5. WME

    12 volt and CPAP

    Trojan AGM 31 size. Best???? who knows. To be honest the reason for my AGM is that they are inside and unvented. A few years ago this was OK, now the nannies are saying its a bad idea. If $$ count then Sams Club has flooded cell g-2 sized 6 volt batteries for $90 ea.
  6. WME

    12 volt and CPAP

    Most CPAP units are powered by a wall wart adapter, my wifes unit the adapter puts out 12v when plugged into 110v AC. Check yours if you have an adapter check its output V. If its 12vdc, most likely the CPAP mfg has a cigarette lighter plugin. I have 2 100ah AGM batteries and a 200w solar panel. Run the CPAP all night, run 21"tv, run Fantastic vent Fan, lights when ever I want and always a full charge at sunset http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Volt-DC-Power-Cord-50-series-Respironics-M-Series-Remstar-Synchrony-SystemOne-/281715243357?hash=item419789795d:g:-DoAAOxyhodR0GDb Many others available
  7. I would remove the side window and carefully remove the side paneling and see what the frame is, wood or aluminum. If tis aluminum you couls shorten the sides to where you want and weld the roof frame back on. Save a ton of time and $$.
  8. I thought you had memorized and categorized the entire " What I did to my Toyota". So a mere 10 post should be no problem?
  9. I THINK that is the EGR valve. If you remove the air cleaner there should a hard pipe that goes to a thermo switch on the front of the engine. There was a short rubber hose that went to the valve.
  10. Try here...http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=Vanco-8&partnum=8R4VANCO8&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
  11. Ya that's what I posted at the beginning
  12. "Figures don't lie, but liars can figure" with that caveat in mind here is a page to help convert db and distance. http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-distance.htm Some thing else to consider is load the 51db @21 ft WEN posts is 25% load (500w). The much maligned noisy Onan 2800 is rated at 70 db @ 10 ft. That converts to 63 db @ 21 ft. With the factory resonator/aftermuffler the Onan goes to 61db @ 21 ft. BUT that rating is at 50% power (1400w). The WEN or Honda would be close to max throttle to make that much power. So tread lightly here, For There Be Dragons
  13. If you do need a thermostat a cheap one digital one from one of the big box stores works great. You can use the features to warm up the rig in the morning and they aren't as fussy to being level.
  14. A Chinook RV poptop will do the 20mpg thing. Your rig will be a bit bigger so 18-20 mpg is more realistic. BUT the big thing will be speed of travel. A full sized Toy is 10mpg at 70-75 and 14 mpg at 55-60. I'd rethink the coach battery, a fantastic roof fan will make a big difference on a Hot August Night. Also check "Filon" for siding. Although if $$ are important your siding looks reusable. 1x1x.125 on 16' seems like overkill, there should be engineering tables on the net to let you look at strength vs weight before you build. There are 2 posts to check out "put the sawzall down" and one I cant remember, but is a RVer in South America who built a steel framed Toy RV. Maybe the moderator will remember. The boat tail works for trucks so it will help some.
  15. Good start, but to keep it apples and apples you need to know load and distance. Most of that is in the owners manual so just dig around a bit.
  16. Send your countdown timer and be on the phone/internet when it goes off.
  17. The weather makes this a real crapshoot. Central WY will have 2:23 total Eclipse. The camp grounds around here are filling up real fast and most hotel space is gone. Good luck in your search For the rest of you here is where to go....http://www.eclipse2017.org/2017/path_through_the_US.htm
  18. Yep to happens to most cold weather campers. Here's is what the boat guys do about. https://www.miamicorp.com/products/MARINE/HYPERVENT.aspx
  19. Yep CB from battery to coach and a CB from isolator to battery
  20. Close to normal. I would still rerig the wiring so the coach is hooked directly to the battery. The long wire will cause a voltage drop. It might be just enough to keep the heater from starting with a 50% battery.
  21. The ignitor or coil?? if it seems to be a spark related thing. Have you been able to check the fuel pressure when the engine is running under load? Weird sh*t a plugged exhaust.
  22. Weird. But electrically its OK. With the engine off, you should have coach battery v on the isolated terminal with the" blue" wire. Check both sides of the cb. Most units are setup with the coach connected directly to the battery and only one wire from the isolator to the battery. Electrically you are sort of the same. With the engine off, check for v on both sides of the " blue" wire cb. You should have house battery v (12 v). Check the battery too.
  23. No percent damage. You might try dielectric grease on all the distributor cap wires. The spray bottle at night will tell you a lot.
  24. Got a wiring diagram? Pure guess here, the terminals 1,2 should be the control going to the thermostat. 3,4 should be the load connector. Try jumpering 3,4 and see if anything makes noise.
  25. OK try the new one. There 2 wires on the house battery post, are you charging 2 house battery's?.
×
×
  • Create New...