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WME

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by WME

  1. Used an air powered jitter bug sander with wet&dry paper (wet), to clean and remove fuzzies. I used 600-1200 grit paper depending on how bad things were. 5 coats with 6 on the front. First coats look bad, just keep going 1 year old , WY winter, looks good
  2. Lets see worn friction....yep, hard to tell if its abuse or just normal wear in an overloaded transmission crispy fluid.... yep, using O/D, bad maintenance, overloaded transmission, questionable cooling worn output bushing...yep, marginal design and big overload blown planetary ....nope, sorry in my limited Toyota 43D experience haven't seen this. The 22R/a43d combo is border line marginal when you put a 4000b house on its back and try to drive 5500lb+ in the hills at "normal" speeds. Most of the long time owners have upgraded the transmission cooling, installed temp gauge and drive by the gauge more than the speed limit. I'm not saying to use 2nd @60 mph, when you can use 3rd, but climbing a 10,000 ft pass you better manually shift to 2nd OR even 1st and feather the throttle. P.S. I live in WY and there LOTS of 10,000 ft passes to go over
  3. Wear on gears on an automatic is minimal, its normally the clutches and bands that wear. By down shifting the rpm may be higher but the torque load is reduced....Keep shifting.
  4. While this post is about paint, here is a break down on reading the VIN tag. The "offical" toyota color is listed on the tag. There many places where you can go and they will mix the correct color and put it in a rattle can for you. Yes more $$ than Rustolem but it is correct, not almost correct. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ToyVIN.shtml
  5. Weird Sh*t list. Bad "new water pump" The lower radiator hose is collapsing, it should be VERY stiff or have a big coil spring in it.
  6. Maybe if I was not pulling a trailer, or had a REALLY good tailwind, or my whole trip was downhill... OR You slow down to 4.10 speeds and use even less throttle.
  7. 1. BIG DC wires 0/0 or so, think welding cables and triple check the connectors. A slightly bad connector at 70 amps is a potential fire point. 2.Two batteries good idea. 3. Your truck needs 35 amps to run everything so you have 50 amps of surplus power. Up graded alternator is mandatory. Problem is driving a big alternator you may (will) need 2 belts to drive it. 4. 2 100ah batteries, discharged to 50%, would run the A/C for over 1 hr. Personally IMHO your reinventing the wheel, but good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
  8. If its height to be to the angle then I think that doors would be the better idea. Other wise its going to be like a chest freezer with all the good stuff on the bottom .
  9. Looks good. In a millennium some archeologist will dig up that wheel well and spend the rest of his/her life expounding on what type of civilization created the sacred object.
  10. No idea. but mine made it through a harsh WY winter and looks great. Next year maybe just a recoat or 2. A full redo would involve using ZEP remover and then reapply the new ZEP. The major PIA of using ZEP is the prep work to use it the first time on a 20 year old RV, the redo should be easier.
  11. +2 for Zep. The first 2 coats won't look to good, #3 is better and # 4 starts to look good. I used 5 on the sides and 6 on the front. 6 starts to reach the point of diminishing returns.
  12. Convex mirrors on the bottom.
  13. With my toy I also added a couple of 2" piece of flat stock between the mount tubing and the door mount. Thus moved the mirrors out so I could actually see the side of the RV, not just behind.
  14. Mmmm, so how does a ignition coil work?? 12v dc in and 35,000v dc out I may be showing my antiquity but I remember old car radios. Vacuum tubes and they used a mechanical vibrator that feed pulsed DC to a transformer to make the various voltages to make the radio work.
  15. Neutral start switch is a good thing. Do the jumper thing and make the computer happy, then wire the switch with the right plug into your starter hot wire.
  16. The peak power on a 22re is at 4800 rpm. So climbing at 4-4300 rpm lets you rev it up a bit more to get around a 18 wheeler and then drop back to your climbing rpm. For those tachless folks redline in 2nd gear is 75 mph, 4800 rpm is 62mph and 4300 is 57 mph, with a standard 4.10 rear end. With a 4.56 4300rpm is 51mph and with a 4.88 its 48 mph. So if your used to a American V-8 going up hills at 2500 rpm, yea it seems as your Toyota is screaming. And just for giggles there were a zillion Toyota P/U in CA with 4 speeds being driven at 75 mph for ever (3750 rpm)
  17. Get a tach, the red line on a 22RE is 5750 rpm. It will run at 75% of that (4300) all day long. Sometimes on rolling uphill sections you will need to leave it in 2nd and use the throttle to keep the rpm right. I went over 8000ft passes in 2nd and 12,000 ft passes in 1st
  18. This is sorta what you need ...http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BIG-SIZE-Waterproof-DC-12V-Step-up-to-24V-15A-360W-Boost-Converter-Regulator-/351846477495?hash=item51ebaf2eb7:g:O2IAAOSwrddY8CYw
  19. Long read, but there pics... This guys sell conversion kits, more reading...http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechPages/carbtech.html
  20. My pressure varies by load. When I head out fully loaded I set the pressure so that the rear is about 1/2" high from level and level side to side. There is no magic.
  21. You guys are doing great, BUT I'm beginning to wonder if it would easier to switch the house into long wb T-100 . That would be mostly carpenter type work, which most of are better at.
  22. x2 Plus you really need to take a trip, 500mi or so, keep track of the actual miles and actual gal used.
  23. Its not much, something like 500lbs. Its so close you couldn't get a generator and a spare tire from the factory
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