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Everything posted by WME

  1. That line wasn't about you. There are used injectors all over EBay. All that is involved to change an injector, labor, new o-rings and gaskets, who would install a used injector? But there they are, so somebody is doing it.
  2. Used injectors $12-$18, really! are you that desperate? Remfg injectors $35-$50 ea, or $125-$300 a set. New are $75-$175 ea.
  3. A leakdown test is part of evaluation of an poor engine, compression test first. If the compression test is OK then no leakdown is needed. IF compression is bad or all over the map, then a leakdown will help identify the problem in each cylinder. Bad rings, bad valve or bad head gasket. We also use a leakdown test on new HP engines to check ring seal, then every so often you do it again and compare. If it drops more than a few % its time to rering.
  4. Your not welding and the new camera looks good. Did you arch the roof rafters or is that look a wide angle effect.
  5. OK digital meter. Black probe goes COM, red probe goes to the middle port. Install battery, turn on meter, turn dial to 200 ohm (ohm symbol is upside down horse shoe). Short the red and black leads togather, the meter should read 0. CAREFULLY remove wire harness from #4 injector, with the meter in 200 ohm position touch one lead to pin/contact in the injector the other lead to the other pin. A good injector coil will read 14-16 ohms. .00 anything is bad. A total open bad. Check a good cylinder injector just to make sure you got it right, You can have a good injector coil and still have a bad injector. Forget about measuring the injector pulse with that meter.
  6. I not sure, but I don't think there were crossbars the full width. The completed Raider shell was bolt to the normal truck frame. Over time the weight of the shell on outer edge of the flooring causes it to bend down and the floor sags.
  7. This is worse than the B reel serials you sat through every Sat at the local theater
  8. Post a pic of the meter, we'll tell you what function to use to test the injector..
  9. If you don't own a multi-meter you are now officially in the market for one. Remove #4 plug and check it, remove distributor cap and check it. Look for carbon tracks, cracks, broken terminals and such like. Check the resistance of the plug wire with meter. Follow Linda's post about using a meter to check fuel injector coil resistance. NO meter (yet) ?? swap spark plug to different cylinder, no change, then swap ignition wire. IF your new wires showed up then just repace # 4 wire, later change all wires. Swapping injectors is a PIA so get a meter
  10. Looks good. The only thing I would do different is to place a 1/2" block under the ends of the angle iron. This would let you raise up the center a bit and give you some arch, instead of just being flat.
  11. Engine wont run with the intake disconnected. There is an air valve with the air cleaner. It acts as a crude airflow meter. Removing the boot means no air flow measured. The PAIR valve is after the engine so other than noisy leaks it should not effect things.
  12. About $260 in parts You still have the PAIR (passive air injection) valve installed too.
  13. Try disconnecting the vacuum line to the egr and plugging it. Then install the 10 k resistor. See how things react. If the egr is good this should duplicate what the block off would do.
  14. This help any with the block off kit install???? https://www.yotatech.com/f128/3vze-egr-pair-valve-removal-engine-simplification-250923/
  15. An increase in RPM when a hose is removed is a sign of a vacuum leak. Try plugging the hose, golf tee.
  16. Timing, idle speed. Has the engine had a compression check?? Last time the valve clearance was checked?? Cowboy compression check, with the engine warm, let it idle and with insulated gloves pull off 1 spark plug wire at a time. If it gets worse then that cylinder was working. If no change then that's a bad cylinder. Check all 6 you could have 2 bad ones.
  17. You know with all the gutted toys that show up on eBay or Craigslist that represent lost dreams, looks like you are really going to get it done. Congrats
  18. Drop the drive shaft, check the u-joints, If its a 2 piece driveshaft check the carrier bearing. The seal and bushing have nothing to do with the fore and aft movement of the driveshaft.
  19. Take a wire with you and run it from the engine to the frame and then to the - of the battery.
  20. 22RE plate http://www.lceperformance.com/EGR-Block-Plate-Kit-Cyl-Head-20R-22R-RE-RET-p/1016009.htm V-6 plate http://www.lceperformance.com/EGR-Block-Plate-Kit-3VZ-p/1016036.htm
  21. Depends on how the water is in the battery, anywhere from a week to months. The old converters only put out 2-5 amps but they run way over 14v and that is the battery killer. In the "old" days I just put a timer on the charger, 1/2 hour a day
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