WME

About your insulation ideas. Saw something that may be helpful. Remove everything from the roof. Use 2x4 or 2x2 to frame the openings. Get the roof sprayed with foam insulation, then use a truck bed liner to protect things. Leak proof, extra insulation and a white bed-liner will make the roof a lot cooler.

I ASSUME that you told the new owner about this group😍

Forget about a mini split to many unneeded problems. Don't go reinventing the wheel. Get a 9,000-11,000 btu roof mount AC. Make sure your pricing the same complete kit not just the upper roof unit. Also depending on $$$ available the Dometic 11,000 BTU ac uses less power than the Colman Mach 8 9000BTU unit. This is important if you boondock and see a generator in you future.

Because its supposed to be that way.😁 The DC side of things are usually fuses. Now if you mean that the DC appliances work when plugged into AC shore power, but don't work when unplugged, that's a bunch of different problems. Ranging from a bad converter transfer switch, a bad house battery, a blown main 12v fuse and such like

How big is your roof AC? What model, how much power does it draw on a hot start.?? FWIW My Escaper had a 2800w Onan and it would not reliably restart my 13.5 BTU AC. I installed a hot start cap and all was good. It is hard to "Crystal Ball" the effectiveness of a generator running your AC, before you actually have a generator and see what it does. There are 3 levels of starting help for an RV roof AC. 1. GOOD If your generator will start your AC some of the time, but when its hot its not so good. Then a Hot Start cap should make things good. https://www.campingworld.com/hard-start-kit-90042.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjtS4qpmZ4wIVAqvsCh3b9g_4EAQYAyABEgKs6PD_BwE. 2. BETTER Next is a start timer. What this actually does is start the compressor first so it gets max power from your generator, the it starts the fan. With a smaller generator you may need 1&2. Here is the kit for this https://rv-ac.com/Easy-RV-AC-Starter.html 3. BEST This is a very smart device. Micro Air Easy Start. This does many things for starting the AC, go here and read the FAQ sections. https://www.microair.net/products/easystart-364-3-ton-single-phase-soft-starter-for-air-conditioners?variant=30176048267 The smaller inverter generators can run the roof AC with help, but not the AC and microwave. That takes 3500w +. For a CPAP a larger battery and a solar panel is a much better idea than running a generator all night with a small load. A typical CPAP uses around 4.5 amps at 12v so size the battery accordingly

Fan clutch, gauge bad, temp sender bad. Harbor Freight has IR temp guns they will let you quickly check temps. More rare, Toyota Red anti freeze does not play well with the traditional green stuff. Make sure you are running one or the other.

Go to your local RV repair center. Ask then to check out all your appliances and show you how to work them. Like $100 Advantage is if something is broke vs just working right, they will be able to take care of it right then. Plan B. Stay at a smaller RV park camp next to a smaller Class C, strike up a conversion and ask for help. Most RVers are friendly. Plan C. Find the Yahoo Toyota-Camper Group and join. They have most owner manuals for your appliances. The factory owners manual is usually just a note book full of appliance manuals. Plan D. Hang around here and ask question for one appliance at a time. If they are in good order, most of them are simple to use.

A fan inside, a couple of fans moving hot air out from the rear fins, extra foam insulation. All this makes the ultimate RV refer. Anything you do makes things better than stock.

I did the same to my Escaper. Its amazing how well the suspension works and the RV steers and rides when everything works as designed, as opposed to things loosely banging and clanging around

For your holding/fresh tanks and your steps, this is 12v dc...https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Fresh-Water/LaSalle-Bristol/277-000164.html For your fresh water hose this 120v AC...https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Fresh-Water/AquaFresh/W01-5315.html

Old poorly maintained RV have a bad reputations for leaks and rotted wood. So basic choice is seal all the leaks, make temp repairs and enjoy it until it collapses. Or the other choice is spend the big bucks. Ya can't put a good roof on bad walls. You need a very good inspection to see what is going on. You can remove the inside trim on the vents and look at the ceiling/roof and see how bad it is. A bore scope might help. Go to the Wal-Mart web site and search for "Lizard Cam". Remove a few windows and frames and inspect the inside of the walls too. From the Peanut gallery remove EVERYTHING from the roof, strip it to bare metal, put a crown in it and spray a pickup bed liner on it for a permeate no leak seal. Additional searches, 1. How to use Borax to kill wood mold. 2. Fixing rotted wood "Rotdoctor.com". 3. There are posts here about putting braces on the outside of the roof and putting a crown in the roof to stop some of the leaks.

Whats too big, the threads or the taper? How is the original mounted?

"Normal" tank size is 17 gallons. Some "rare" Toys came with a 25 gallon optional tank, again very rare. The gas gauges are the same for the instruments. But the gauges are not very good. WAG at the E you have 2-3 gallons left. If its important there should be a drain plug in the tank, drain it carefully, pour in 5 gallons and head for the nearest gas station and top it off. Keep an eye on the gas gauge while your filling

Major spring cleaning, I found a box labeled "RV-Y2K" First photo is weather strips, approximate lengths..L-R 8ft, 15ft, 12ft. The L one has peel off sticky, middle one has a hard plastic side and a sticky side, right one just is. $10 shipped for all 3. Photo 2&3 .. 95 amp 4 post isolator never used, no instructions. But here is general stuff...http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Resources/instructions/BUS_CBT_INST_180012q.pdf $15 shipped. I do pay pal

Whats wrong? can you post a photo of the old and new dampers side by side?

Reducing load is just as important as increasing battery size. Replacing all the lights with LED bulbs will reduce battery draw by10-15 amps, so its like going from a 24 gp battery to a 27 gp battery with out the weight. A 100w panel and a 100AH battery will give you enough power for days of moderate usage. If you use more than moderate power your battery will still make 2-3 days but it will be charged to like to 90% of starting charge each day. So after 3-4 days your battery is down to 70% or so. Not a problem cause your done camping and the battery will fully charge on the way home. Any driving during camping time will also boost the battery. 200w and 200ah will approach perpetual motion. Even running a TV with a DVD and the wife's CPAP machine all night, in my case. Mounting the panel flat on the roof makes everything simple, but does reduce the total power some. You also can't park in the shade IMHO start change the lights to LED and go with a 100w basic solar system and use what battery you have. If its not enough then add a bigger battery, still lacking add another 100w panel and a another battery. Get a 20 amp controller with the first panel so you can add another 100w panel without having to upgrade the controller.

Cup Hook...https://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-1-1-4-in-20-lb-Vinyl-Coated-Steel-Mug-Hooks-2-Pack-534169/300547200 Safety cup hook...https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-4-in-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze-Safety-Cup-Hook-2-Piece-per-Pack-803114/204794133

Can you pull on the screw?? Maybe vicegrips

Go to the Xantrex site and research what you want for watts and the sine function. You want to look at the Freedom series Inverter/Charger. The HF is mod sine and the HFS is pure sine. Then use the P/N to shop online.

Yep, a new is in order. They run in the $25 range. The A/C unbolts from the inside, should be 4 long bolts. If it's just a gasket you should be able to do it from the inside. If the PO had "fixed" the leak with some goop then you have to get on the roof and scrape all the junk off.

The Xantrex link I posted is an inverter/charger is one box. It is available in 1000w or 1800w. depending on model number it has a 20, 40, 55 amp 3 stage charger builtin. It also comes in mod sine or pure sine. It also has a built-in transfer switch. A much simple install than buying a new smart charger and an inverter.

The 5/6 Factory front wheel adapter is VERY rare but it's real. The factory later changed the front hub to a 6/6 setup. This is the most common front used 87 on till production stopped. The only way to figure out the propane tank capacity vs gauge is to run out of propane and fill an empty tank and look at the gauge as it fills. A propane tank is full when it reaches 80% of volume. Full is when the spit valve emits liquid propane.

The 110 AC outlets only work when plugged into shore power. The roof A/C is the same. No, you can not run the roof A/C from with an inverter. Lack of battery capacity is the reason. You can add an inverter. The better inverters have a transfer switch built in so its an automatic change over. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Xantrex-Freedom-HFS-2000-Inverter-Charger-Pure-Sine-Wave-2000W-55-Amp-12V/202682096421?epid=28030649367&hash=item2f30cb5b25:g:vw0AAOSwK65bvMmt

I got some medium sized cup hooks. Just screwed 3 in a row in the roof and clipped the rods in. This lets you keep the reels attached

My Escaper was a rear bed, side wet bath setup. The tanks were very low and would scrape if you were not careful. Maybe some P/O had to replace the tanks at some time. I know the waste tanks were way less than the 15 gallons in the brochure. The 25 gallon fresh could be a possibility.