WME

Scraper, putty knife, wire brush, razor blades..what ever works be careful with sharp things butyl tape...https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/maintenance-hardware/rv-roofs-epdm-rubber-roof-repairs/tape/butyl/butyle-tape_38-1467 Self leveling sealant, this will flow out and level itself, for roof tops...https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/maintenance-hardware/rv-roofs-epdm-rubber-roof-repairs/sealants-and-caulks/rubber2-lap-sealant-white-103oz-tube_38-8896 NON self leveling, this is for vertical use it wont flow or sag while drying...https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/maintenance-hardware/rv-roofs-epdm-rubber-roof-repairs/sealants-and-caulks/lap-sealantuse-388896_38-9018 Front window is a total different animal. Use the motor home search engine

Roof vent.. Have you thought about a Fantastic Fan or something similar?? A lot time at night they will do as much for you as a roof ac. How to... Remove old vent, CLEAN CLEAN off the old stuff on the roof. Use butyl tape to seal the vent to the roof. After the tape warms up tighten the screws, scrap off any of the tape that oozes out. Then use a lap, self leveling, sealant to seal around the edge and a dollop on each screw.

There is a trim ring on the inside 4-6 screws. The vent is screwed to the roof on the outside. Lots of screws. You need to remove all the sealant first to check for hidden screws.

A flat plate cooler is more $$ but it is more efficient than a tube and fin cooler. Both of these coolers are 18,000lb units. You can see the size difference and cost. Your choice This is a flat plate cooler...https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60380/10002/-1 This is a tube and fin cooler...https://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/820500/10002/-1

Yes on cooler, put it in series with the radiator cooler. Aftermarket first then radiator. This will help take some of the heat out of the radiator when your making a long up hill climb. Yes on Dex 3. Draining the pan will only remove 2-3 qts. But that much fresh fluid will be a big help. The transmission filter is just a big piece screen not worth changing unless its torn. Yes on hardly use O/D To be totally sure of things add a trannie temp gauge

YAA TO MANY POSTERS. The thread was started by someone asking about a tankless heater and she asked about a dorm refer. Sorry for the confusion. But my answer still is valid for everybody thing about electric tankless.

Ol skool redneck sway bar bushing shim ... automotive heater hose, just split it and push it on. Use a hose clamp to keep it from shifting.😜

Reality check, Unicorns like Deluxe hotel rooms , they don't do camping in a 30 year old RV's. Some basic power truths. Do you know that a tank of propane has an energy density way more than a battery. A 60 lb flooded cell battery (regular deep cycle battery) weighing 60lb has about 1.5Kwh of power. A gallon of propane has 26.8 Kwh of power. Propane weighs 4.2 pounds per gallon. So a gallon of propane has the power of 1000lb of batteries. Li-ion batteries will have 2x the energy per lb, at 7 times the $$ To run the tankless heater you listed for 30 min a day of TOTAL use, would require 200lbs of batteries and 8 hours of sun shine with a 150 watt panel. It will draw 140+ amps from your house batteries during use. So your looking at finger sized battery cables. You also asked about running a dorm refer from batteries. To do both you will need over 300lbs of batteries and 400 watts of solar, you will also need a 3000w inverter. Running a TV or lap, lights and the water pump will add to the size of your system. How about cooking and a heater for cool nights?? Almost anything is possible with enough $$$, but is it practical?? There is a reason RVs have propane. All the above means zip IF you WILL ALWAYS be staying in a commercial camp ground with at least a 30 amp plug in

Opps...added link

Before you pay to have it inspected, go here and get a checklist and inspect it your self to get a ballpark feel of what you have. This is a before you buy list, a little late, but you will have some ideas to compare with the rv shops list. http://www.everything-about-rving.com/rv-inspection.html

The parts are available, most of us have functioning A/C. It could just need a recharge, EBay has NOS R-12 cans. If your system was really abused then the cost can get high. You need to decide if its worth it. A proper diagnostic is needed.

Used Toyota ad language and translation. I don't know if "it" works I never use it..."Its" broken. Good tread on tires, expressed without a tire MFG date...old dangerous tires. A 10 year old tire needs replacing regardless of tread depth. Gets 20 mpg...ya right Old leak repaired...just wait for the first rain. You don't have to worry about the previous owner, but the 6 previous P/Os. Each of them has changed something to make the MH "better" The learning curve on your first used MH is pretty steep. The first one I bought was a money pit. Now if I spend less than a $500 on making a used RV right, I think it was a good buy

Yikes, used automotive is not for the uninformed. So before you dump it at a major loss you need to find out what it would take, to make it right. Drive around to some local RV parks and ask the office who is a good local RV repair place for an older RV. Talk to a couple of RV repair places to get a feel for things. A proper inspection is going to be $100+. With a repair estimate in hand you can make an educated decision. Good luck, if you have ANY questions come back here and ASK.

Add 200w of solar and fergetabout the generator most of the time.

A couple of choices. https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-automatic-transmission-rtv-gasket-maker/ https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/ultra-series-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-4/ Most auto parts stores will have them. Maybe even Wal-Mart.

Pro level silicone remover...https://prosoco.com/product/dicone-nc9/ Stuff around the house that helps a bunch...WD-40, vinegar .

You need an inverter to invert the 12v DC rv battery to 110v AC to power the fridge. A Solar panel powers the inverter in the daytime, a big battery runs things at night. You need a large enough solar panel to both run the inverter and recharge the battery to full capacity. If you want real numbers you need to find the power consumption label on the fridge. WAG would be 200w of solar and 150AH of battery. You should not discharge the battery more than 50% capicity 1000w inverter should run the fridge. A 250w inverter will "run" the unit but it won't start it.

Sorry no pics, that was a long time ago. Birch underlay...https://www.homedepot.com/p/Underlayment-Common-5-2-mm-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-209-in-x-23-75-in-x-47-75-in-431178/203183022 It comes in 4x4' or 4x8' sheets. It is designed for being under vinyl flooring. It has no interior voids so it won't develop sink holes over time. I cut mine so that the joints extended way past the factory ply joints. I glued it with exterior construction glue and used 3/4" screws. I used water putty to fill the screw divots and sanded everything smooth before installing the vinyl. If you have a flexie floor goggle Birch Cabinet plywood. It comes in 1/2 and 3/4" thickness. Cabinet ply has more ply layers so its stiffer than regular plywood.

Yes a 1" drop from center. Make it a continuous curve. If you like the results then use the same curve on the bottom and make a 2" beam. Make one for each side of the A/C.

Take a 2x4 on edge and put a 1" curve in top . Make it the full width of your house. Sunrader put some ribs in their later models to support the roof A/C.

It will become a "bad" choice when you try to sell it. As far as what you do with it, your plan would work. Without propane how would you cook? What is the generator for? With 4 batteries and 300w+ of solar you could run your refer for a long time, like perpetual motion. Add some insulation to the out side. Better yet spend the bucks and get a 12v marine chest refer

The birch plywood underlay and using a premium thick vinyl flooring (remnant) made it quieter.

FWIW. I removed my carpet and the billizon staples holding it down, I cut to the edge of the benches and cabinets . I glued and screwed a layer of 5/16 underlament plywood down to seal off all the carpet edges by the benches and cabinets and make a stiffer, smoother floor. Then glued down a single piece of vinyl flooring and caulked it around all the edges. This created a swimming pool effect so any spill can just be swept out the door. I later finished things with 1/4 round around the edges for a better look. A lot of strange corners so I cut up used some cardboard boxes and used duct tape to make them into a tight fitting pattern. For a warmer floor in the winter I used a couple of hall runner rugs.

FWIW here is my set up. It runs off the house batteries and the 280w worth of solar panel. The 2 100w glue down panels failed after 1 year and I now have a single 280w traditional panel. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/10205-my-frigeumrator-dont-kul-gooder/&tab=comments#comment-95165

I got nailed in a construction zone going into Rocky Mountain National Park. I pulled over just before I had to stop. I talked to the flagger and he held traffic and I backed up about 100 ft to a "flat" spot. Then started back up the hill. Made it to the top mountain in first gear. All this goes back to too much weight and not enough HP