WME

This?? https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/maintenance-hardware/rv-locks-handles-storage-hardware/table-parts/rv-pedestal-table_31-1564

That looks like one of the use horizontal and fill vertical models. You have to remove it to fill. So you have to remove the regulator to fill, so you need a flex hose on the output of thee regulator os you can move the regulator to get the tank out. A 90 deg fitting on the regulator output is not a problem.

https://www.delamrepair.com/index.html

Here ya go something to keep the juices flowing. Its even a 5th wheeler...https://www.bonhams.com/auction/28011/lot/91/1936-pierce-arrow-model-1245-convertible-coupe-and-curtiss-aerocar-trailer-chassis-no-3120036trailer-no-c22-2b-013-6136/ 🤑

This is the ugly way but gives you more head room. Put a curved 1x1 metal beam on the out side and bolt through the roof to a 1/8x1" strap. this will spread the load and pull the roof into the curved piece on the outside. I think that factory was curved ply beams glassed to the roof and covered in carpet. Linda would know for sure how it was done.

Remember that the newer Sunraders came with FACTORY beams to support the roof, just saying.

Yes there is a seperate heater for 120v or 12v. You said running on 12v in your orginal post, thus the 12v heater element link. FWIW the 12v is for maintaining cool, not cooling. The 120v heater is 325w and the 12v is 130w

Mufflers are universal fit, brake pads, rotors and calipers are exact fit

NOPE, that is a 120v ac heater.. Try this...https://www.amazon.com/MC-Enterprises-0173737016MC-135W-12V-Refrigerators/dp/B01DCWNLS0/ref=psdc_155287011_t3_B00T371JGU

There should be wires coming out of the boiler stack. You can trace them, unplug them and use an OHM meter to check for continuity. 40-100 ohms, if its open then you need a new heater element. The element failure is not uncommon.

Starting to look like a mobile dance hall

This is how a member did it.

See if SKF makes one of these for your yoke...https://www.skf.com/us/products/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve Full on redneck hack, only drive the seal in about 2/3 the way. This may let the seal lip move far enough to ride on a smooth part of the yoke

Hills, bumps and a route...https://www.flattestroute.com/Long-Beach-CA-to-humboldt--ca Scroll across the route elevation chart and it will show where it is on the route map.

Best idea yet.

O boy a previous owner strikes again!!! MAYBE you can loosen the hose clamps and remove the whole mess. If you get a valve and some adapters you can install the valve and adapt it to a drain hose coupler, but then you would have to move the drain hose from one to the other. Thats a PIA The best way is to redo both tanks so that you only have to use one hose. Move the valve you have closer to the tank and install a t adapter after it for the small drain. Then the hose coupler. You would also need a small control valve for the gray tank. All the pices and parts should be at your local rv parts place. Good luck

My "rig" is a 30ft Winnebago with a 496 CID V-8. This is a 120 amp bolt on for a 92 Toyota Pickup...https://www.ebay.com/itm/284660936757?fits=Year%3A1992|Model%3APickup|Make%3AToyota&hash=item42471d3035:g:SeUAAOSwcdBcQfWf&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4IRsuAMipIUi1BuNill9B5RBCKg0cheQ1rIliG9e3UMHgHniGB5z974ElGs%2FjgLSd6enEnDqgR7nT6M8IU695hTMAse9ouenlhiiX04adqxsLmSdFaP4m7s8bLxB449qy3oi9D%2BtQ7X8e7kJj3V1f6Koc7XUgAxiNDdd72cRITttTPvRs1Tm5jZ0ttGLdcWMes3ZmPkz3lHu4CcA8xxmEtnxWctRkSzozv4pV5%2BhgfGFwDOMAzmzwBVGcdwvzq%2FmjZYR5vs7sWSDWWmv0C4i6ipFTGckQs2lMZo4kLqDWLQ2|tkp%3ABk9SR5yI35-rYg Its set up for a ribbed drive belt, does your "rig" have a ribbed belt or a v-belt?

Your stock alternator is 60 amps, it takes about 25 amps for power and lights. That leaves you with 35 amps, the smallest MPPT DC to DC is 30 amps. Not a lot of headroom for a depleted battery. A 100AH LifePo4 with a good BMS will take a 70 to 80 amp charge at a maximum, 40-50 amps is the max continuous safe charge You may need to also upgrade the alternator. There are bolt on replacements of 120 amps and up. You want to keep the alternator load around 50% of capacity. So 25 + 30 = 55 x 2 = 110 amps MINIMUM My rig has a 160 amp alternator and I'm running a 40 amp DC to DC

OK Renogy makes 8 different DC to DC chargers. THE one you posted does not require a 12v control wire. So you need to splice the 2 blue wires together and your wiper will work just fine. Like Fred said. Follow the Renogy video and its easy. Make sure you use proper sized wires (4 ga) if the runs are short. You can add solar later with just 2 wires, if you are NOT planning on adding solar then the other style charger is less $$. https://www.renogy.com/12v-40a-dc-to-dc-on-board-battery-charger/ I helped some folks, this spring, with the other style unit and they require a switched 12v trigger wire. Got confused

Lets all get on the same page😜 What DC to DC charger do you have.

You can just remove the old isolator and use the white wire as the control wire for the DC 2 DC charger. You will have to rewire the battery power leads to suit the DC 2 DC charger output. Where are you taking the 12v input from?

After all this, your going to go off roading in that. But you will scratch it😱

What he said

Yep, put it on a scale and push.

P.S. Linda here is a leaf spring to air bag conversion. Way to much $$$ for this crowd. https://hutchswelding.com/product/universal-rear-air-suspension-kit-for-leaf-springs/